MOORE RACE CHASSIS FABRICATION 2nd Gen S-10 8.50 Cage Kit Instructions

2nd Gen S-10 8.50 Cage Kit

Product Information

• The MRC 2nd Gen S-10 8.50 Cage kit is a roll cage installation kit for Chevrolet S-10 trucks of the second generation. The kit is designed to provide supplementary protection to the vehicle’s occupants in case of accidents or rollovers. The kit includes a set of tubes made from either chromoly or steel that can be welded together to create a roll cage structure.
• The kit includes a set of common tools that are required for installation, and the cage’s design is optimized to fit the vehicle’s frame for easy installation. The main hoop is designed to lay back at 7 degrees from vertical, and the windshield bar can be customized to fit the vehicle’s specific dimensions.

Commonly Used Tools

• Tig or Mig welder (if chromoly, the process has to be Tig welded)
• Grinder to fit tubes, finish tube notches, clean floors
• Tube notcher or grinder to make notches
• Digital protractor
• Tape measure
• Sand paper or sander to clean tubing of millscale to weld
• Wire wheel and flap disk to remove paint and seam sealer
• Ratchet strap

Dimensions

Tubing Size| Wall Thickness| Outrigger to Outrigger Measurement| Height Measurement
---|---|---|---
1.250| 0.058| 38 3/16| –
1.500| 0.065| 41 1/8| –
1.625| 0.083| from 10 to 132 1/4 (varies by tube)| from 10 to 59 5/8 (varies by tube)

Product Usage Instructions

Before beginning the installation process, ensure that the vehicle is level both front to back and side to side.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

• Step One: Cut Holes in the Floor
  Cut holes in the vehicle’s floor to accommodate the cage kit. Be sure to cut enough for the cage to fit through without difficulty, but not so much that covering the hole with tin becomes difficult. Clean the edges of the hole to avoid injuring yourself and make it easier to lay down the tin later on.

• Step Two: Clean the Frame for Welding
  Clean the frame for welding and patch any holes that may interfere with the tubes’ placement. Measure the outriggers to determine where to place them on the vehicle’s frame. Use supplied caps to finish the tube ends and tack them in place.

• Step Three: Set the Main Hoop
  Set the main hoop, ensuring that it lays back at 7 degrees from vertical. Notch the bottom of the main hoop to fit the outrigger, taking care to do so slowly, as this sets the height for the rest of the cage. Tack the main hoop in place once it is set.

• Step Four: Set the A-Pillars
  Set the a-pillars, which should fit tightly to the body of the vehicle. Use a ratchet strap to hold the main hoop in place if necessary. Notch both ends of the a-pillars and work them together slowly to fit the bar. The top portion of the a-pillars should be level with the truck.

• Step Five: Fit the Windshield Bar
  Fit the windshield bar, which may be challenging due to its deceptive design. Take your time and customize it to fit the dimensions of your specific vehicle.

Thank you for choosing MRC for your cage kit!

• We hope we made this as painless as possible.
• If there are any questions this sheet doesn’t cover, Please contact us by phone, Email or
• Facebook Messenger.
• Phone – (636) 791 1541
• Email – Matt@Mooreracechassis.com

This guide is to be a supplement to common roll cage installation techniques. Some portions are not covered in this guide. We have supplied you with some pictures to guide you. More pictures are available on our facebook and website.

Commonly used tools

1. Tig or Mig welder (If chromoly, The process has to be Tig welded)
2. Grinder to fit tubes, finish tube notches, clean floors
3. We recommend a tube notcher to make notches, But a grinder will work also.
4. Digital protractor
5. Tape measure
6.  Sand paper or sander to clean tubing of millscale to weld
7. Wire wheel and flap disk to remove paint and seam sealer
8. Ratchet strap

Before we begin, Make sure the car is level, front to back and side to side.

*All tubes have 1 inches added to each end.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

• Step One
  Holes need to be cut in the floor to be able to run the cage through. Cut enough to drop the cage, but not to much where it’s a pain to place tin over the hole. Make sure you clean the edges of the hole as to not cut yourself and to make laying tin down easier later on.

• Step 2.
  Start by cleaning the frame for welding. There are some holes in the factory frame that may need filled to put the tubes over. We patch and grind flat. The measurement below is from outrigger to outrigger, it does not set the cage in the truck. Use our pictures as a reference to where to set it. Once the outriggers are set, use the supplied caps to finish the ends of the tubes. Tack in place

• Step 3.
  Once the outriggers are tacked, The main hoop gets set. The lay back of the main hoop is set at 7 degrees from vertical. Begin notching the bottom of the main hoop to the outrigger. Take this step slowly. As this sets your height for the rest of the cage. Tack in place.

• Step 4.
  After the main hoop is set and tacked, the a-pillers will be set in place. We sometimes use a ratchet strap to hold the main hoop in place, when fitting the a-pillers, it may push the main hoop back. So watch that. The a-pillers will fit very tightly to the body of the truck. Once again, begin notching both ends. Working them slowly together to fit the bar. The top portion of the a-pillers should be level with the truck.

• Step 5.
  The windshield bar can be fit now. This bar is tricky as its deceptive as to how its fit. Take your time.

• Step 6.
  This is a time to make sure your main hoop hasn’t moved.

• Step 7.
  Harness bar can be fit after the windshield ba, be careful when fitting this bar, it is also deceiving on how much you need to take out. Make sure you are fitting if from the back and not just the front, Bring the notches to the main hoop from the back. Its easy to take too much and scrap the bar.

• Step 8.
  Note : (Leave the door bars and rocker bars out for now. They will get fit after the cage is raised back up.)
  At this point, you can go ahead and weld all the joints you see except for the outrigger to frame connection. This way the cage can be dropped down to weld the top portions of the cage. Once everything is welded and will stay in place, break the tacks free from the frame to the outriggers. And the cage will drop and you can weld all the way around the top of the cage. (Now would also be a good time to fit the roof bar if that option was selected.)

• Step 9.
  Raise the cage and level it out again, you should be able to see where the old tacks are to give you a reference of about where the cage sat. But use your protractor all over to level it out again. You can now weld the cage to the frame.

• Step 10.
  After the cage is leveled out and welded in, now is the time to set the door bars and rocker bars. Door bars need to meet the drivers arm between the shoulder and elbow. So set accordingly. Now would be a good time to test fit your seat and get things comfortable.

• Step 11.
  Once the main cage is complete, the rear down bars need to be fit. This cage, if fit correctly, sets the main hoop right at the bottom of the rear window. You may need to grind a small spot where the cage comes through the rear window seal area. This allows the cage to be fit as tight as possible. We set the rear down bars on the frame right over the rear axle.

• Step 12 Optional engine bay bars
  If purchased, now Is the time to cut a hole in the firewall to fit the forward engine bay bars. Easiest way is with a holesaw. On the frame, there is a seam that needs to be leveled out. We have supplied a 6×6 .125 plate to level out the frame to provide a nice place to land the bar.

Warranty

There is no warranty stated or implied due to unusual stresses placed on race cars and components because we have no control over how they are maintained and used. Moore Race Chassis and fabrication LLC accepts no liability for failures of racing products manufactured or sold by MRC. The customer accepts all risks involved with racing and hazards thereof, MRC makes no claims nor does it intend for it’s products to be used on street driven vehicles.

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