APOGEE QuickDraw 29 mm Motor Rocket Instruction Manual

29 mm Motor Rocket
Instruction Manual

Kit #05058
Skill Level 4

Slightly Challenging

If you’ve been looking for the ultimate mid-power cluster rocket, look no further. Using our BT-80 QuickChange Motor Mount System, the Quick Draw allows you to switch between multiple motor mount options for flights on one, two, three, or four 24mm motors and one or two 29mm motors (some mount options sold separately). For a  majestic flight, load up the 4x24mm mount (sold separately) and fly on four long-burn motors (such as the Apogee E6, which will take the rocket over 3300’) or just install the 1x29mm mount (included) and punch a hole in the sky with a snappy flight to 2000’ altitude on an Aerotech G40. The Quick Draw brings rapid flexibility of motor  options to you with a rocket that is an impressive flier, a quick build, and easy to work on.

Quick Draw Parts List

Required Tools

• Pencil
• Ruler
• Hobby Knife with Sharp Blades
• Flat Needle File
• Scissors
• Wood Glue
• Aluminum Angle Extrusion
• Sandpaper: 220 grit, 320 grit and Sanding Block (e.g. Sanding Tee – Item # 02100)
• Dowel at least 12″ long
• Q-tips (cotton swabs)

Optional Tools / Materials / Finishing Supplies

• Fin Alignment Guide (e.g. 66mm 4-Fin Alignment Guide Apogee Item # 35701)
• Thin CyA Adhesive (Super Glue)
• Paper Towels
• Painter’s Tape or Masking Tape
• Fine Sandpaper
• Paint Supplies: Spray Paint, Brushes, etc
• Bowl of water with a little dishwashing soap

Assembly Steps

Aft Tube Preparation

… 1. Cut out the fin wrap and wrap it aroundß one of the two 18″ BT-80 tubes, taping into place. Mark the locations of the fins and launch lug. Using an aluminum angle for alignment, extend the launch lug line the entire length of the tube and the four fin lines at least 7” from one end of the tube. This will be the aft end of the rocket.

… 2. (Optional but highly recommended) Saturate the inside of the aft end of the tube using thin CyA adhesive for a length of approximately 1/4″. Hardening the tube in this way will reduce the potential for damage to the rocket when swaping removable mounts. Once the glue has set, lightly sand the inner edge of the tube to remove any  raised lip that may have formed.

Fixed Mount Assembly and Installation
… 3. Carefully remove the parts of the fixed mount from the plywood sheet (P/N 12704) using a sharp hobby knife.

… 4. Hold ring C (the aft ring) with the label facing toward you then – using a needle file – bevel the four edges to the right of the inner tabs as shown.
… 5. Take the two alignment frames and apply wood glue generously to all mating surfaces. Insert the the two alignment frames into ring A (the front ring) from either side.

… 6. Rotate the Ring A assembly so that the pins face you. Ring B is symmetric so, again, direction does not matter. Apply wood glue to ring B (the center ring) and install ring B. Clean any glue blobs in the inside or outside of the assembly with a Q-tip.

… 7. Apply wood glue to the center ring (ring B) and the alignment pins. Install ring C (which was chamfered in step 4), taking care that the bevels and label are facing toward the already assembled parts. Clean off any glue blobs using a Q-tip as glue in the latch area will make installation of removable mounts difficult or impossible. Allow the fixed mount to dry completely before installation.
… 8. Remove the parts of the fixed mount installation jig from the cardstock sheet (P/N 12705) with a sharp hobby knife.

… 9. Assemble the three frame pieces by inserting the tabs into the slots. Do not glue yet.
… 10. Install both cardstock rings on the end of the assembled frame that has tabs. Apply wood glue to the joints and let the installation jig dry completely.

… 11. Once both the fixed mount and the installation jig are completely dry, ensure that there are no glue blobs or protrusions that may impair the motion of removable  mounts. Dried blobs can generally be removed by snapping them off with the tip of a hobby knife. To prepare the fixed mount for installation, latch the jig into it by aligning  the tabs, inserting, and rotating clockwise into place.
… 12. Do a trial fit of the fixed mount in the aft end of the marked tube. If there are any glue blobs or misalignments that make insertion difficult, sand the outer surface of the mount until it can be slid into the tube smoothly.

… 13. Remove the mount and jig, then use a dowel to apply a bead of wood glue approximately 1/8” (3mm) wide to the interior of the tube beginning 3-1/4“ (83mm) from the aft end.
… 14. Slide the fixed mount and jig into the tube and rotate the mount into the glue (to distribute it over as much surface as possible) pushing all the way until the jig stops at
the edge of the tube. This will place the fixed mount at the correct depth and ensure correct alignment.
… 15. Check from the front side of the tube (the open end) that no glue has overflowed onto the installation jig. Clean any drips with a dowel. Allow the mount to dry for several minutes before removing the installation jig. To remove the jig, rotate it counterclockwise until the tabs on the jig line up with the openings on the fixed mount and pull the jig out. The fixed mount is now installed. Allow it to dry completely before removable mounts are inserted.

Fin Can Assembly
… 16. Remove the fins from the fin sheet (P/N 15723) with a sharp hobby knife.

… 17. Using a sanding block such as the Sanding Tee (P/N 02100), sand the surface and edges of the fins to remove any roughness and to prepare for final finishing.
… 18. When mounting the fins, ensure that they are aligned with the aft edge of the body tube, parallel with the long axis of the body tube, and at right angles to the body tube and each other. For the easiest alignment, a fin alignment guide can be used. Glue the fins in place. Allow them to dry before continuing.

… 19. Glue the launch lug in place along the launch lug line at the mark 4” (100 mm) from the forward end of the tube using wood glue.
… 20. Apply fillets to the root of the fins and around the launch lug by applying a bead of wood glue and shaping it with a finger.

Forward Section Assembly
… 21. The kit includes two sections of Kevlar shock cord. The longer (8 ft) piece will become the main shock cord. From the other piece, cut an 8” (200 mm) length and then cut the remainder in half. This will give you two 23” (580 mm) lengths. Set the two 23” pieces aside for use in constructing the removable motor mounts. The 8″ piece will be used in the next step.

… 22. Tie a loop in the middle of the 8″ (200 mm) piece of Kevlar. Pass the loop through the hole in the bulkhead and glue the tails into place on the back side of the bulkhead with wood glue. Allow the glue to dry.
… 23. Mark the midpoint of the coupler (2” or 50 mm from either end). Glue the bulkhead into the coupler with the loop facing out 1/8” (3 mm) inside the coupler tube to leave space for fillets.

… 24. Add fillets to both sides of the bulkhead by running a bead of wood glue along the joint and forming the fillet using either a finger or a dowel (particularly for the  internal fillet). Allow the fillets to dry.
… 25. Apply glue to the interior of the second (unmarked) body tube. The final bead should be 1” (25 mm) wide. Install the coupler by rotating it as it is inserted and stop at the previously marked half-way point.

… 26. Wrap the shoulder of the nose cone with masking tape to achieve a tight fit so that the nose cone cannot fall out during flight. Then install the nose cone in the tube.

Installing the Recovery System
… 27. Tie 4” (100mm) loops in both ends of the long piece of kevlar shock cord and wrap the tails with tape (or apply glue directly to the knots).

… 28. Pass one end of the shock cord through the loop installed in the forward section bulkhead. Then pass one loop in the shock cord through the other. Pull the shock cord to tighten the slip knot. The loose end is tied to the installed removable mount later.
… 29. Cut out the parachute using scissors or a hobby knife.
The parachute provided can be cut at either 32” or 24” diameter. The smaller 24” size is sufficient for safe recov- ery and will minimize drifting, so cut the parachute to that
size. Place one reinforcement ring on each of the parachute’s corners and – using a sharp knife or pencil – poke a hole in the plastic in the center of each ring.

… 30. Cut the provided string into four equal lengths by folding in half twice (as shown). Tie the shroud lines to the ring holes. Place a small amount of glue on each of the knots to keep them from coming untied and set the parachute aside to dry.
… 31. Once dry, place the parachute top down and lift the shroud lines one at a time near the center and stack them together over a finger, making sure that they are well organized. Pull the parachute at the center to tighten the lines and even them out. Thread the four looped ends through the bulkhead loop on the forward section. Pass the center of the parachute back through the shroud line ends and then pull the parachute to tighten the knot.
Finishing
… 32. Once completely dry, fill and sand any particularly rough sections of the surface. Spray a coat of primer over the entire rocket. When painting the Quick Draw, take care to avoid getting paint in the rear of the rocket to avoid fit problems with removable mounts. Sand the primer entirely before applying color coats.

… 33. Allow the final coat of paint to harden for at least a full day (24 hours) before applying the vinyl decals. To allow easy repositioning, the decals can be dipped in soapy
water (after removing the paper backing) prior to placing on the rocket. While positioning, keep the decal wet. Once it is in the correct location, press it down firmly and squeegee out any water underneath. When the decal dries, it will be permanently affixed to the rocket.

… 34. Congratulations, your Quick Draw is now complete. Once the removable mounts are built, it’ll be ready to fly!

Building the Removable Mounts

1x29mm Removable Mount
… 1-1. (Optional) Harden 1/4” (6 mm) of the end of the motor mount tube by saturating the inside with thin CyA glue. This makes it less prone to damage. This will be the aft end of the tube.
… 1-2. Using a section of aluminum angle or a door frame to ensure alignment, draw a line along the length of the motor mount tube and mark 5/8” (16mm) from the aft (hardened) end of the tube. Once marked, sand the inner edge of the tube (if hardened in step 1) to ensure easy motor installation.

… 1-3. Using a sharp hobby knife, remove the plywood parts from the sheet (P/N 12710). Keep the L tabs inside the rings as well.
… 1-4. With the label of ring A (the latch ring) facing toward you, chamfer the right edges of the tabs as shown using a flat needle file. The chamfer does not need to go through the entire thickness. It is simply there to make it easier to align the finished removable mount into the fixed mount.

… 1-5. Using wood glue, glue the alignment frames into the forward centering ring (ring C) as shown. All mating surfaces, including the faces and interior of the slots, should have glue applied so that the final latch assembly has maximum strength.
… 1-6. Rotate ring C around, so the alignment pins are facing you. Apply wood glue to the ring and pins and install the latch spacer (ring B) with the shock cord notch  aligned on both rings. Remove any glue that has squeezed out.
… 1-7. Apply wood glue to the latch spacer (ring B) installed in the last step and to the alignment pins. Install ring A (the latch), making sure that the chamfers created in step
4 are facing inwards toward the forward centering ring (ring C) and the shock cord notches are aligned on all three rings. Clean any glue from the outside of the latch area and set the latch assembly aside to dry.

… 1-8. Wood glue the L-shaped tabs into the aft centering ring (ring D) with the rounded ends passing through the slots as shown and set the assembly aside to dry.
… 1-9. Tie a loop in one end of one of the 23″ (580 mm) shock cords, securing the tail with masking tape. Tie the opposite end of the shock cord using a sliding knot, slide
over the front (not hardened) end of the motor mount tube and tighten.
… 1-10. Apply wood glue to the inside hole of the forward centering ring (ring C) on the latch assembly, pass the shock cord through the center hole and align it with the notch while pressing the motor mount tube into place until it bottoms out. Check that it is visually square to the latch assembly. If this part isn’t built square, the removable
mount will be difficult to install in the rocket. Once it is straight, pull on the shock cord to tighten the loop against the alignment frames.
… 1-11. Apply wood glue to the joint between the forward centering ring and the motor mount tube then form a fillet by shaping it with the tip of a finger. Also apply a fillet to the shock cord all around the motor mount tube.

… 1-12. Make a ring of wood glue at the marked point 5/8” (16mm) from the end of the tube. Slide the aft centering ring assembly (ring D) with the base of the L facing  inward into place at the mark, aligning the hole with the line drawn on the motor mount tube. Once the ring is in place, apply a fillet to both sides of the ring. Let the glue dry
entirely.
… 1-13. Insert the all-thread rod into the mount through the hole in the aft centering ring. The rod should extend 3/4” (18mm) beyond the end of the motor tube. Using a thickened epoxy (such as Fix-It Epoxy) glue the rod into place. Let the epoxy harden entirely before attempting to install the mount in a rocket. Adjust the fit of the latch as described below on page 10 (“Adjusting Mounts for Correct Fit”)

3x24mm Removable Mount
… 2-1. (Optional) Harden 1/4” (6 mm) of the end of the motor mount tubes by saturating the inside with thin CyA glue. This makes them less prone to damage. These will
be the aft end of the tubes.
… 2-2. Place one of the tubes against a door frame or section of aluminum angle and mark the tube lengthwise.
Place marks at 1/8″ (3 mm) from the forward end and 5/8” (16 mm) from the aft (hardened) end. Mark the other two tubes similarly.

… 2-3. If the tubes were hardened, check the fit of a motor into the end of the motor tubes. Sand lightly if there is resistance to inserting the motor. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut a slot at the 1/8″ (3mm) mark made in the previous step. Install the motor hook by inserting the forward “L” end of the hook into the slot, aligning the hook with the lengthwise line and taping the hook into place. Complete the other two motor tubes in the same way.

… 2-4. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut the motor mount parts out of the plywood sheet (P/N 12712). Take care not to misplace the engine blocks which are nested inside the
aft centering ring.
… 2-5. Place a ring of wood glue inside the forward end of the motor tube and insert the wooden engine blocks into place, flush with the end of each tube. Repeat for each motor mount tube.
… 2-6. Hold the latch ring (ring C) with the label facing you. Using a needle file, chamfer the right edges of the tabs as shown to make installation of the completed mount easier.
… 2-7. Tie a loop in one end of the final 23″ (580 mm) shock cord, securing the tail with masking tape. Then tie the other end through the holes in the A alignment frame  (the one with holes in it).

… 2-8. When installing the alignment frames, the rounded corners of the frames face the outside edge of ring E (the front centering ring), and should be nearly flush. Add wood glue to all three alignment frames into insert into ring E, with the A piece to the right of the hole with the notch, and the two B pieces in the remaining slots. Pass the shock cord through the hole with the notch.
… 2-9. Rotate ring E around. Pass the shock cord through the latch spacer (ring D). Apply wood glue to the alignment frame tabs and the latch spacer (ring D), and install the
spacer. Clean up any blobs of glue with a Q-tip.

… 2-10. Apply wood glue to the latch spacer which was just installed, as well as to the remaining length of the alignment tabs. Position the latch (ring C) that was chamfered in Step 6 such that the chamfers and “C” label face the forward centering ring (ring E) and install. Carefully remove excess glue from the area of the latch and the holes for the motor tubes.

… 2-11. DO NOT GLUE – Slide the aft centering ring (ring F) over all three motor tubes, and rotate the tubes so that the engine hooks align with the notches in the aft ring,
and are all facing the same direction.
… 2-12. Rotate the latch assembly, so the latch is facing away from you. Apply glue to the interior of the three holes. Quickly install the front of the motor mount tubes in the latch assembly centering ring, Press the tubes all the way into the front centering ring and get the tubes as square as possible.

… 2-13. Once the tubes are secure at the latch assembly, apply glue at the 5/8″ (16mm) marks of all tubes and slide the aft centering ring into place.

… 2-14. Apply wood glue to the joints between the centering rings and motor tubes, then form fillets with a finger tip. Allow the removable mount to dry entirely before installing in a rocket.

Adjusting Mounts for Correct Fit

… To adjust the fit of the removable mount, the tabs may need to be filed down somewhat. This compensates for slight inaccuracies in both the fixed mount and removable mounts. To test, insert the removable mount into the rocket and rotate it until the tabs on the latch drop into the slots in the fixed mount. Rotate the removable mount clockwise to latch. If the removable mount refuses to rotate or is overly stiff, take the mount out and use a flat needle file to remove material from the aft side of each
of the tabs (as shown here with the 3x24mm mount). Repeat this process of testing and removing material until the mount rotates and latches without binding

*Quick Draw Suggested Motor Charts
1x29mm Motor Mount:

2x29mm Motor Mount (Sold Separately):

3x24mm Motor Mount:

Launch Supplies Needed:

To launch your rocket you will need:

• A launch pad with a 1/4″ (6mm) launch rod and a launch controller as suggested by the motor manufacturer
• Recovery Wadding
• Engines such as those recommended in the motor charts.
  *Go to our website for a broader motor selection for this kit at https://www.apogeerockets.com/Model-Rocket-Kits/Skill-Level-4Model-Rocket-Kits/QuickDraw#motors

4x24mm Motor Mount (Sold Separately):

Rocket Preflight:

… A. Attach the shock cord to the selected removable mount (these preflight instructions demonstrate all the steps with the 3x24mm removable mount, but any of the other
BT-80 Quick Change Motor Mount System removable mounts work in precisely the same manner). The shock cord attaches with a slip knot. To create the knot, pass the shock cord through the loop on the motor mount then pass the loop on the shock cord over the aft end of the motor mount. Finally pull the slip knot tight.

… B. Taking care to avoid the shock cord becoming caught in the latch area, insert the removable mount into the rear of the Quick Draw and rotate the mount until it drops into the slots in the fixed mount. Holding the rocket vertical here can be helpful to allow the shock cord to pass through the fixed mount. Finally rotate the mount clockwise until it seats completely.

… C. Crumple and insert 5 or 6 sheets of recovery wadding into the front of the lower body tube, pushing it into posi- tion with a dowel.

… D. Fold the parachute in an orderly fashion by first folding the parachute in half, then folding opposite pairs of rings together until all of the shroud lines end up together. Fold the shroud lines onto the parachute and fold it in half long ways to surround the shroud lines. Fold the parachute again – this time the other way – to shorten the whole
package. Then roll the parachute package slightly to compress it further. Insert first the shock cord and then the parachute into the rocket, then slide on the payload section.

… E. Install the motors by sliding them into the motor mount tubes and securing the motor retainer – either the metal hooks or a washer and nut on a threaded rod,  depending upon the motor mount selected.

… F. Insert and secure the igniters as directed in the engine’s instructions. For clusters, be careful to connect the igniter wires together without pulling them out of the motors. For more information, view the video on “How to Cluster Rocket Motors with Success” on the Apogee website.

Scan to view video
https://www.apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_Videos/Rocketry_Video_282

… G. The rocket is now ready to be taken to the launch pad for flight.

Countdown and Launch Procedure
The Quick Draw is a large rocket and needs to be flown on a fairly large field. The first flights should be done in light winds so that the flight characteristics can be learned. Additionally, it is ideal to simulate a Quick Draw flight if unusual motor combinations are used to check both stability and ejection charge timing. Also, ensure that the flying site is far from any power lines, trees, or low-flying aircraft. The launch area must be free from dry weeds, brown grass, and other fire hazards.

… 7. Remove the safety key from the launch controller.
… 6. Slide the rocket onto the launch rod. The rocket should slide freely along the rod.
… 5. Attach the clips to the igniter wires. Ensure that the clips do not touch either each other or the metal blast deflector. Otherwise, a misfire is likely.
… 4. Stand back from the rocket as far as the launch controller wire allows (a minimum of 40 feet for motors E or larger, or, indeed, any cluster flight).
… 3. Insert the safety key to arm the launch system.
… 2. Give a loud countdown! 5… 4… 3… 2… 1… LAUNCH!
… 1. Press and hold the button until the engine ignites. Once the rocket is away, remove the safety key.

Misfire Procedure

Misfires happen when a launch is commanded, but the engine does not light. Sometimes this is a result of the igniter burning but failing to light the engine. At other times, the igniter will not burn at all. In any case, the safety key should be removed from the launch controller. Wait a full minute (60 seconds) prior to approaching the rocket (as per the NAR safety code). Check that the igniter wires or clips were not shorted together. If so, the short can be corrected and launch attempted again. If the engine simply failed to light, remove the old igniter and install a new one. Make sure the igniter is installed all the way into the engine and that it is in contact with the propellant.
Always follow the NAR (National Association of Rocketry) Model Rocket Safety Code when launching model rockets.

*National Association of Rocketry **Kevlar® is a brand name of E.I. DuPont for their selection of aramid fibers. Only DuPont makes Kevlar®.

Need parts or Accessories to go along with this kit?
Go online and order at www.ApogeeRockets.com or call us and
order at 719-535-9335. We’re available M-F: 9:00am-5:00pm MST
Manufactured in the USA by:
Apogee Components Inc.
Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA
Visit us online at:
www.ApogeeRockets.com

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