williams and hussey 209 Molder Instruction Manual

Williams & Hussey 209 Molder Instruction Manual

WILLIAMS & HUSSEY MACHINE CO INC
MODEL 209 MOLDER
OPERATOR’S MANUAL

MANUAL NUMBER OM-991
customerservice@williamsnhussey.com
800-258-1380 641-843-3240
Customer Service is available Monday-Friday, 8:00 AM- 4:30 PM CST

OCTOBER 2018

SPECIFICATIONS

ACCESSORIES

SAFETY RULES

Your W&H Molder has been designed for maximum safety, however, as with all power tools; there is a possibility of incident or injury to the operator. Therefore, it is imperative that this manual is completely read and understood before using.

Use your W&H Molder with respect and caution. Following stated and inherent safety precautions will considerably lessen the possibility of personal injury. If normal safety measures are not taken or are overlooked, the possibility of incident rises tremendously. These safety measures are simple to follow, and the injuries that could happen are not worth the few minutes saved by ignoring safety.

The W&H Molder was designed for specific applications. Do not modify or use the machine for any purpose other than what this manual describes as its capabilities. Substituting a motor with a horsepower rating over 1 ½ HP constitutes a modification. Any modifications or improper use to the Molder- Planer may result in personal injury, and will void the warranty. Please contact us if you are unsure about safety protocol before using the machine.

SAFETY CHECK LIST

DON’T TAKE UNNECESSARY RISKS!

Failure to read and apply manual instructions will cause poor performance, unnecessary repairs and injury.

Wear safety glasses and use respiratory protection.

Disconnect the power before servicing or changing knives.

Wear footwear that does not slip. This will help you keep proper footing and balance. Always stand beside the machine, never in the way of the in-feed and out-feed areas.

Keep knives sharp and clean.

Make sure the machine has proper grounding.

Make sure all guards are secured and in working order.

Remove all adjusting keys and wrenches before starting.

Check the stock for loose knots, nails, and foreign matter.

Keep the machine in a dry, clean, and well-lit area.

PREPARING TO USE THE MACHINE

1. Disconnect the power source while going through these procedures.
2. Check knives to ensure that the bolts are tight. If molding, set your guides for the stock path through the knife area. If planing, you may or may not wish to set your guides. Many times, they are not needed in planing.
3. When molding, the head scale setting must be set to within 3/16” of the height of your stock. The “0” on your scale is set to the top of your GS-2-1 guide system sub-plate. This means you would set the machine head reference to the scale at ¾” in order to take a full profile pass on a ¾” piece of stock. You could set the machine head in reference to the scale at 15/16” for a maximum height first pass (3/4” + 3/16”). This setting will provide the proper roller tension. Any other setting higher from the thickness of the stock entering the machine is unacceptable and dangerous. See the molding section for more information.
4. The chip extractor loads first under the out-feed end of the head with a lip under the cast head. You then finish by attaching the chip extractor with its pin. Make sure the pin is inserted all the way in until you feel it “catch” on the spring-loaded catch.
5. Check rotational clearance of the knife with the chip extractor in place. Rotate the knife by hand at the 5” pulley cut out on the inner belt guard to ensure the knife area is clear.
6. Do not stand or let others stand in the out-feed area or directly in line with the in-feed of the machine.
7. With the head set in the proper position, tighten the head locking bolt firmly. This is essential for safety and to ensure the machine head will stay where you have set it.
8. Test a piece of stock, with the machine off, to see if it will make contact with the in-feed roller.

VARI-FEED OPERATIONAL TIPS

The main control start button starts the knife motor and the Vari Feed motor. The speed control knob controls the speed of the feed rollers.

The stock feed rate is approximately from 0 to 19 fpm (feet per minute), depending on where the knob is set. Higher rates of feed are only recommended for lighter depths of cuts. Turn the knob clockwise to increase the feed rate.

When the dial is in the 9 o’clock position the feed speed is approximately 4 fpm.
At the 12 o’clock position = approximately 6 fpm
At the 3 o’clock position = approximately 14 fpm
At the full to the right position = approximately 19 fpm

Always remember to set your stock rate prior to entering the stock into the machine. The feed rate may be changed during the cut.

The vari-feed option allows for high feed rates on relief cuts on the backside of casings. The vari-feed multipass combination provides the versatility of slow feed rates on deep hardwood profiles making possible two or three passes to finish.

On deep and wide profiles you can now raise the knife for a partial profile cut and enter the stock very slowly, while engaging the butt into the knife gently, letting stock move under the out-feed roller before engaging a higher feed rate. This reduces the incidence of a large chip out, a chatter mark or snipe on the first few inches of your stock. You have the same advantages exiting the cut.

As the grain structure changes throughout the cut you can vary the stock feed rate to reduce the possibility of chip outs and spoilage of your piece of stock.

Before starting the machine first familiarize yourself with the rest of this “Owners Manual”. It is very important to safely operate the machine as outlined in this “Owners Manual”. Operate the machine only within the described design intent.

Be sure you check for rotation direction before you use the machine. See the rotation illustration in the changing knives section.

MOTOR LOCK

Your newly designed machine base has a motor lock. This new devise allows you to lock your motor in place to keep it from bouncing on the belt during interrupted cuts etc. It also allows you to modify the belt tension which can aid you in achieving the finish quality you are looking for.

To reduce tension you can crank the head down to within 1/4” of the actual setting you will use and lock your motor. Then reset your head to the 1/4” lower running position and your tension will be reduced. You can vary the 1/4” factor to achieve the tension you desire.

Always unlock the motor before resetting the machine head height.

CHANGING KNIVES

DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE CHANGING KNIVES!

PLANER KNIVES

CAUTION; when planing always back off all four pressure screws to a position ¼” higher than the fully seated position. You will create too much roller pressure and feeder problems if you don’t.

Remove the chip extractor by pulling out the pin and lifting the infeed end up first and pulling it back to clear the lips hold. Clean off knives and machine arbor. Set one knife at a time in place against the lip of the arbor. Place the “bevel” of the knife as shown in the illustration below. Tighten the eight bolts securely using a 7/32” allen wrench. After tightening, double check to see that the knives are snug against the lip.

MOLDING KNIVES

Clean off knives and machine arbor. Set one knife at a time in place with the bevel edge positioned as shown in the illustration below. Push the knife firmly down against the arbor lip and sideways against the bolts in the direction of the tube side of the machine. Hold secure while tightening the bolts.

KNIFE SHARPENING

For fast and professional results with minimum edge loss, return your knives to the factory for re-sharpening. Have your knives re-sharpened when you first notice some dullness. This gives optimal performance and maximum life span out of the knives.

Molding knives should be surface ground on the face in pairs or the profiles should be reground. Sometimes it is better to regrind the profile. If you send them to us for regrinding we will use the best method that will prolong the use of your knives. Planing knives may be ground on the surface or on the bevel.

Both molding and planing knives have an edge angle of 57 degrees measured off the back of the knife.

The use of dull knives will put a strain on the feed mechanism and will result in your need of a repair. Any problems created due to the use of dull knives are not covered under the warranty.

HOW TO MOLD

You will normally use the guide sub-plate. When using the optional jig you will take it off. Always use your sub-plate on any job where the knife is designed to cut below the bottom of the stock. This type of knife will hit the base of the machine if a sub-plate is not used. An example of this situation would be the moulding of half or quarter rounds.

The “0” on your head setting scale references the top of the ½” sub-plate supplied with your machine. For example if you were milling a ¾” piece of stock you would set the machine head at the ¾” setting. Adjusting your machine head to this scale setting will give you a full pass cut and a completely finished profile. This is a multi-pass machine and with multi-pass you can add 3/16”, in this example, to the 3/4” dimension for a first pass setting of 15/16”. In this example you may set the machine head to any scale setting between 3/4” and 15/16” for a first pass. These settings allow you to achieve proper roller tension for holding the stock and providing a safe operation.

Be sure to check for sufficient feed roller contact before proceeding to use this setup and be sure to rotate your moulding knives to check for knife rotation clearance with the chip extractor installed and the power off before starting the machine. Turn the knife arbor by turning the motor pulley at the inner guard opening.

Other moulding tips
Stock height should be within 3/16” of finished moulding size. If making one pass only it should be within 1/32”.

Stock width should be uniform and to finished moulding size. Saw ripping to width will not make the stock uniform enough for smooth flow through the guides, and thus, will not result in a satisfactory molding. We recommend that all stock be planed in both width and height to finished moulding size before setting up to do the profile.

When tightening the knives, push them firmly against the lip and sideways against the bolts in the direction of the tube side of the machine for an exact profile match up. Hold secure while tightening bolts.

Set the head height to within 3/16”of your stock height. This will give you proper roller tension on your moulding stock. This is the correct way to mold. It is acceptable to leave 3/16” of the cut for multiple passes. But for safety reasons leave no more than 3/16”.

On some extremely deep or wide cuts, some prior stock removal will be required before molding. You may remove this stock using one of the rabbet/dado knives found in our catalog. You may also use a dado blade on a table saw.

Failure to set your head height within 3/16” of the stock height will create an extreme safety hazard in that possibly not enough roller pressure will be applied, or that no roller pressure at all will be applied.

Do not cut a wider stock area than the knife was designed to cut. This will cause excessive heat in the knife, burn your stock and puts a harmful load on the feed system.

The roll pressure screws are set at maximum molding pressure from the factory. They are screwed into the head as far as possible and the check nut is tightened.

When you use the machine for planing you will need to reduce the roller pressure. Loosen the pressure screw lock nut and screw out each pressure to a setting ¼” higher than the fully seated position and retighten the lock nut.

To change the molding knives, remove the chip extractor. Set one knife at a time in place with the bevel edge toward the in-feed end of the machine. Firmly push the knife down against the arbor lip and sideways against the bolts in the direction of the tube side of the machine. Hold secure while tightening bolts with a 7/32” allen wrench or drive.

GUIDES

Guiding your stock
Your machine comes with the GS-2-1 guide system, which includes a flex guide and a solid guide to guide, your stock. To set these guides , first attach your knives to the knife arbor in the position you have chosen, often a place where you can get the most out of your roller surfaces. Panel knives would go to the far right. Smaller knives to the post side half of the mounting area and larger knives to the central positions.

Roll one knife down pointing to the machine bed and place a sample piece of stock you are going to mold on the bed. Align the stock to the knife profile and carefully lower the machine head until the roller puts pressure on your stock to hold it securely.

Attach your flex guide to the side of the profile that will cut the least deep into your stock. This will give the longest possible life to your flex guide. The beveled portion of the guide should be facing the stock. Put about a 1/32” amount of pressure on the flex part of the guide. This will keep you stock from wandering within the glide path. Pull the handles up and away from the stock path.

Attach your solid guide on the other side of the stock. Push it up firmly against the stock and tighten the handles angling them away from the stock path.
Remove your set up piece of stock by raising the machine head, and pulling the stock out from the bed.

Your knives will usually cut into one or both guides. This is normal and expected. The guides are effective and last a long time after being cut into many times.

As you become more familiar with the machine and its use, you will want to make wooden guides to suit specific jobs. Always make a complete sample (top and bottom) of crowns and keep sample to set up on.

Make your bottom cut first when milling bed and crown moldings. You may want to add a key cut as a guiding mechanism for your top profile.

When planing the edge of stock , a high, square, relieved guide is needed in order to have the edge reasonably square and to provide stability. The center reliefs are to reduce friction.

Some profiles are too deep to make on the W&H. In some cases you can rotate the profile into a flatter position to effectively reduce the depth of cut. A “ V block ” guide would be made to guide your stock. The profile knives would have to be custom made to use in this V block position.

When making tongue and groove stock, a serious and detailed approach is needed in order to achieve a uniform fit. Carefully pre-inspect your stock for cupping and warping. You need to plane all your stock to one uniform size.

The guide thickness should be 3/8” thinner than your stock or your roller will scuff on the guides when the stock has left the machine and the rollers are in their rest positions. When running thin stock you will need to fasten a sub- plate between the guides to maintain a thick enough guide to control your stock.

Always check your knife clearance to the guide. Clear away any interfering portion of the guide by gently lowering your knife down into the guides to just below your running position.

MOLDING PICTURE FRAMES

Decide whether the rabbet or profile cut should be done first. If you are going to make the rabbet on the W&H Molder, do the rabbet first. In order to utilize the W&H Molder for rabbets, a rabbet knife with a depth of cut equivalent to the depth you need should be ordered. If we do not have a standard knife with the depth you seek, we can make a special knife to suit your needs.

ROUND TOP CASINGS CONSTANT RADIUS SIZE ARCS

We manufacture knives with the profile cutting the deepest portion of the cut on the open side of the machine. Notify us when you order a knife if you want the deep side of the cut on the vertical tube side of the machine.

The set up and operation of the W&H machine for a round top moulding job is very similar to the straight moulding set up. One main difference is the moulding stock will ride piggybacked on a template to enable the knife to clear the jig guiding hardware. Our EJ92 Elliptical Jig is not needed for a fixed, constant radius.

Stock preparation can be done in many ways. The following is one example.

First determine the angle needed to cut the wood sections in order to stay within the selected radius. Lay out the wood sections by marking the angles while being careful to select cuts for grain structure and color. Cut the sections and biscuit join them together with glue.

We made a fixture to band saw the inside and outside radii consisting of a pivot bar and bracket. We mounted the pivot bar to the stock on the scrap portion of the inside radius. The pivot bar is drilled with numerous holes to accommodate any radius sizes. You may also want to design a fine adjuster to allow you to make any radius in between your adjusting holes. Make sure the outside radius is cut first.

The guides should be 20” long, which is the length of the GS-2-1 guide system, or 14” long if you are just using the bed of the machine. The guides may be made using the band saw set up. We make one guide for the inside radius and one for the outside radius. We use MDF board.

ROUND TOP SETUP

1. Make sure power supply is disconnected
2. Raise the machine head and set the stock on the bed.
3. Align the stock with moulding profile.
4. Lower the head to pinch the stock.
5. Set the guides and clamp them in place.
6. Raise the machine head, remove the stock, and reset the head to within 3/16” of stock size. Check to see that the rotating knife will not hit anything you don’t want it to on start up.

NEVER attempt closed loop molding. It is an unsafe procedure, you will not have enough roller pressure initially

RAISED PANELS

All of our panel knives are designed to produce a ¼” tongue. Be sure to select a panel knife based on the finished panel thickness. A panel must be 9” or more in the direction you are moulding in order to not have the panel come off of one roller before it engages the second roller. When you use multiple passes you must have at least 9” of panel remaining in the direction of the cut in order to have a least one roller on the panel at all times.

If you desire a different tongue size or have a panel thickness other than ¾” or 5/8,” a special knife can be ordered and shipped quickly by W&H.

THE RAISED PANEL SET UP

1. Disconnect the power supply.
2. Install your knives over toward the tube side of the machine allowing enough room to install your guide.
3. Index the knife arbor so the profile will be seen against the bed. Raise the head to allow the panel to be laid on the bed and to be lined up with the profile visually.
4. Once you have found the proper position for the panel, lower the head so the rollers will put pressure on the panel while butting the guide against the panel. Tighten your guide.
5. Raise the head, pull the panel out of the machine, and lower the head to within 3/16”of the panel height. Rotate the blade arbor by hand to insure nothing is interfering with its rotational path.
6. Mould the panel cross grain ends first. Stand somewhere between the open side and in-feed side.

RAISED PANEL ISSUES

It takes some practice to make a good panel. It is helpful to keep a slight upward pressure on the panel as it is being moulded with a steady pressure against the guide.

Because panels are normally larger than the 7” cutting capacity of the machine, the panel must pass beneath the open side of the head. There is approximately 1/32” clearance between the top of the panel and the head of the machine, provided the head is at stock size setting, and not below.

Many users try to create a slightly deeper cut to modify the tongue size or change the profile appearance and end up dragging and pivoting the panel away from the guide path. The head must be set at the panel thickness and not below it in order to have clearance to pass the panel through the machine in a satisfactory way.

HOW TO PLANE

CAUTION! When you use the machine as a planer you will need to back off all four pressure screws ¼” so that you will not have too much roller tension, or you will risk shearing a pin in the large bronze worm gear.

Measure the thickness of your stock.

The amount of stock that is removable in one pass is dependent on the density of the wood (relative hardness), how wide the cut is, and the moisture content of the stock.

GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR DEPTH OF CUT

THICKNESS| TYPE OF WOOD| DEPTH OF
CUT
---|---|---
1”| Poplar| ¼”
1”| Red Oak| 3/16”
3”| White Pine| 3/16”
3”| White Oak| 1/8”
6”| Poplar| 1/8”
6”| Red Oak| 1/16”

See the table of contents section for knife changing and installation.

Loosen the planing head locking knob (54-21). To initially begin planing, set the head position to a height 1/32” less than the dimension of the stock entering the machine. One-third of a turn on the elevating handle will equal 1/32”. Tighten the head locking knob.

Make sure the chip extractor is in place, the front lip engaged into the head and the pin is firmly seated.

Utilize a high, square, relieved guide when planing the edge of stock to ensure the edge will be reasonably square. A relief in the vertical wall of the guide reduces friction. See the guide section for a picture of the edge guides.

THREAD LOCKING INFORMATION

A medium strength thread-locking compound used on some parts prone to loosen with vibration.
Use two drops on the thread area of the parts listed below.

P-122 post side axle.
54-16 Rest pins.
54-15 Pivot screws.

A small tube of thread locker is available for purchase. Part number P-242
Do not use on P-124 in-feed axle, or on P-224, out-feed axle.

CHATTER

Definition
Chatter marks are irregularities in the finish quality of the surface of the wood. They can be evenly spaced or randomly distributed. Simply put, they may be described as “hills and valleys” in the wood surface.

Cause
These marks are caused by either loosely held stock or by an imbalance in the machine’s mechanical qualities

Solutions
The most common cause of poor stock finish quality is a rough running belt. Replace the belt.

Make sure you are cutting with the head set at the appropriate height.

Keep your knives sharp. Dull knives cause intermittent feeding.

Check the pulleys for damage or imbalance.

Check to see that both knives and all attaching bolts are of the same weight.

SNIPE

Definition
Snipe is generally an unwanted undercut in the stock. It occurs in the first and last few inches of the stock length. It causes a different height dimension than what was selected for the stock.

Causes
The stock may be cupped, warped or twisted.

The stock experiences a change in down pressure as the out feed roller engages the stock, and when the stock disengages with the in feed roller.

The stock may enter or exit the machine on an angle because it is either being fed from a higher or lower plane than the bed, or it is exiting to a higher or lower plane.

Solutions
Use a jointer to flatten cupped, warped, or twisted stock.

Butt stock pieces tight end to end.

Put a slight upward pressure on the exposed end of the stock during both the in feed and out feed stroke.

Use slightly longer stock length than needed and cut the snipe off.

Make sure the head locking handle is tight.

Your outboard support should be slightly higher than your bed.

FEEDING PROBLEMS

Make sure that power is disconnected before inspecting machine.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REMOVAL OF FEED ROLLER

Unplug machine, Take off chip deflector, raise head, and remove pressure screws over swing arm. Remove two 54-15 pivot screws and remove swing arm, leaving chain connected to mating sprocket. Reinstall each pivot screw with a drop of medium strength thread locker.

Take the sprocket off the swing arm axle by putting the feed roller in a vise. Use a couple of small adjustable wrenches attached to the flat on the long axle to loosen it.

Put a good square shank flat bladed screw driver into the slot on the short axle. Push in as hard as you can while using a wrench on the square shank of the screw driver to loosen the short axle. Sometimes this axle will not come out. Hack saw it off if it won’t. If you need to save the roller, pull the roller out of the swing arm by lifting it up and pulling it out with the short axle still in the roller. Reset the roller in a vise and use a small pipe wrench to remove it from the roller.

REASSEMBLY The rollers are constructed with a shallow hole in one end and a deeper hole in the other. The P-122 post side axle always goes in the short end. Reinstall the P-122 axles with two drops of medium strength thread locker on the thread portion. Do not use thread lock on P-124 or P-224. The longer axle goes in the deeper end. See drawing for swing arm assembly with roller.

POSITION OF SPROCKETS First position feed motor shaft sprockets with hubs facing in toward chain guard. The first sprocket slides up to the end of the flat on the motor shaft and the second right up against the first. Chains should (under load) run in a straight line from these sprockets to the roller sprockets. Adjust the roller sprockets to achieve this alignment. Feed roller sprockets should be positioned based on the feed motor sprockets already positioned. The chains should run in a straight line from the feed motor sprockets to the roller sprockets when the machine is under load.

MACHINE EXPLODED VIEW

When reinstalling the vari feed unit after a repair check the chains for proper tension. The short in feed chain should have a small amount slack in it and the long out feed chain should have plenty of slack. This is the correct setting. To obtain the correct setting, in most cases, you would push the unit toward the infeed end of the machine as you tighten it using up the attaching bolt hole clearance for adjustment. This should give you the optimum chain tension and slack.

VARI-FEED VIEW

VF-100 assembly
Does not include roller sprockets and chains

VF-1 Vari-Feed motor
VF-2 REV A Aluminum motor mount
VF-3 Roller sprockets,14 tooth
VF-4 Short chain, 36 pitch
VF-5 Long chain, 54 pitch
VF-9 REV A Chain guard
VF-12 REV A Motor sprockets, 17 tooth

Vari-Feed Removal

Loosen the set screw on the in-feed roller chain sprocket. Loosen and remove the (2) hex head bolts, and (1) socket head bolt holding the chain guard to the machine head. As you pull the unit free, pull off the in-feed chain sprocket you loosened. To remove the motor from the motor mount and chain guard, remove the two motor shaft chain sprockets and loosen and remove (4) socket head cap screws that are in a rectangular pattern surrounding the motor gear housing. To disassemble the motor mount from the chain guard remove the two remaining socket head cap screws with nuts.

UNDERSIDE VIEW OF SPROCKETS AND CHAINS

ARBOR REMOVAL VIEW

MODEL 209 – REPLACEMENT PARTS – INDIVIDUAL ITEMS

BREAKDOWN OF ASSEMBLIES

CONTACT INFORMATION

Williams & Hussey Machine Co., Inc.
46503rd Ave. SE
Britt, IA 50423

641-843-3240 (local)
800-258-1380 (toll free)

customerservice@williamsnhussey.com
williamsnhussey.com (website)

Business Hours: Monday – Friday
8:30 am – 4:30 pm

WARRANTY INFORMATION

Molder – 1 Year Limited

Williams & Hussey Machine Co., Inc. warrants its molders for a period of one year from the original date of purchase.

WHAT IS COVERED?
The warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED?
The warranty does not cover damage due to; modifications, misuse, improper maintenance, normal wear, wood jams or using a knife motor with a horsepower rating over 2HP.

WHO IS COVERED?
The warranty covers the initial purchaser only.

LIMITATIONS ON WARRANTY
Williams & Hussey shall in no event be liable for death, injuries to persons or property, or for incidental, contingent, special, or consequential damages arising from the use of our products.

Motors, Controls & Elliptical Jig
Warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials on original parts. Warranty does not cover defects due directly or indirectly to misuse, abuse, negligence or accidents, normal wear-and-tear, lack of maintenance, or improper repair or alteration.

VF-104 and VF-106
Refer to applicable motor and control warranties.

AUTHORIZATION FROM WILLIAMS & HUSSEY MACHINE AND TOOL CO. IS REQUIRED BEFORE ITEMS ARE BETURNED FOR EVALUATION.

References

• Williams & Hussey Machine and Tool Co.

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