Woodpeckers Iron Grip Coping Sled Owner’s Manual
- September 11, 2024
- Woodpeckers
Table of Contents
Woodpeckers Iron Grip Coping Sled
DIAGRAM NUMBER
(QTY) PART NAME
- (1) Base
- (1) Top Plate
- (2) Top Track
- (1) Acrylic Guide
- (6) Spacer Tube
- (2) Bridge Handle
- (1) Fence
- (1) Bridge
- (1) Work Holding Block
- (1) Ball Shaft
- (1) Ball End Cage
- (1) Spring Clamp
- (1) Black Woodpecker Knob, 5/16
- (1) Hex Nut, 3/8-16
- (4) Button Head Screw, 8-32 × 5/16″
- (2) Steel Dowel Pin, 1/4 × 2″
- (5) Flat Head Machine Screw, 1/4-20 x 5/8″
- (3) Spoil Board
- (4) Knob, 1/4-20
- (1) Ball Wrench 3/16″
- (1) Allen Wrench 5/32″
(QTY) PART NAME
HARDWARE BAG A
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(6) Weldnut, 1/4-20
(4) Flat Head Machine Screw, 1/4-20 × 2-3/4 -
(2) Button Head Screw, 1/4-20 × 2-1/2″
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HARDWARE BAG B
-
(2) Hex Head Bolt-A, 1/4 × 20 x 2-1/2″
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(2) Nylon Washer-A (black), 1/4 × 7/8″
-
(2) Hex Head Bolt-B, 1/4-20 x 1″
-
(2) Nylon Washer-B, 1/4 × 3/4″
HARDWARE BAG C
- (2) Flat Head Machine Screw 1/4-20 x 1-1/2′
- (2) Nylon Washer, 1/4 × 1-3/8″
- (2) Fender Washer, 1/4 × 1-1/4″
- (2) Kept Nut, 1/4-20
- (2) SAE Washer, #10
HARDWARE BAG D
- (8) Weldnut, 1/2-20
- (5) Flat Head Screw, 1/4-20 × 5/8
- (3) Cap Screw 1/4-20 × 3/4″
Scan the QR code above to watch the video or visit woodpeck.com under the video tab towards the bottom of the product page.
ASSEMBLING THE IRON GRIP COPING SLED
AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED
- I Base
- Fence
- 10 Spoil Board (3)
- Steel Dowel Pin, 1/4 × 2″ (2)
- Allen Wrench 3/16″
HARDWARE BAG D
- Weld nut, 1/2-20 (8)
- Flat Head Screw, 1/4-20 × 5/8″ (5)
- Cap Screw, 1/4-20 × 3/4″ (3)
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Insert the (5) Flat Head Machine Screws up through countersunk holes in the bottom of the Base * then loosely thread on (5) Weldnuts. Do not tighten. FIGURE A.
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Slide the Fence O onto the Weldnuts. Ensure that the 1-1/2″ tall face with the t-slot track is facing the elongated slots in the Base.
-
Align the end of the Fence flush with the side of The base where the elongated slot is located 2″ in from the edge. NOTE: This will be referred to as the “Front Edge” for the remainder of the instructions.
-
Insert the (2) Steel Dowel Pins into the holes behind the Fence. Align the Fence flush with the front edge of the Base and pull it back against the Steel Dowel Pins. Firmly tighten the Flat Head Screws from underneath the Base. Once secured, remove the Steel Dowel Pins. FIGURE B.
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Insert (3) Cap Screws through the counter sunk holes in the Spoil Board I. Loosely thread the (3) Weldnuts onto the Cap Screws. Slide the Spoil Board onto the fence by slotting the Weldnuts into the t-slot track of the Fence. FIGURE C.
NOTE: As the Spoil Board becomes shorter over time with multiple uses, you can move the first Cap Screw location to the last counter-sunk hole location and re-secure the Spoil Board. -
Ensure that the Spoil Board is flush with the front edge of the Base. Secure it in place by tightening the Cap Screws with the Allen Wrench.
AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED- HARDWARE BAG C
- Flat Head Machine Screw 1/4-20 × 1-1/2″ (2)
- Kept Nut, 1/4-20 (2)
- SAE Washer, #10 (2)
-
Insert the (2) Flat Head Screws up through the bottom of the Base in the two center-spaced holes along the edge of the Base. Add the SAE Washers (gold color) and tightly thread on the Kept Nuts. FIGURE D.
AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED- 2 Top Plate
- Spacer Tube (6).
- I Knobs (2)
- HARDWARE BAG C
- Nylon Washer, 1/4 x 1-3/8″ (2)
- Fender Washer, 1/4 × 1-1/4″ (2)
- HARDWARE BAG A
- Weld nut, 1/4-20 (6)
- Flat Head Machine Screw, 1/4-20 × 2-3/4″ (4)
- Button Head Screw, 1/4-20 × 2-1/2″ (2)
-
Insert the (2) Button Head Screws up through the bottom of the Base in the elongated slots. From the top add Spacer Tubes © and Weldnuts onto each Button Head Screw. Do not tighten. Leave approximately 1/8″ gap between the top of the Spacer Tube and the bottom of the Weldnut. FIGURE E.
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Insert the (4) Flat Head Machine Screws up through the bottom of the Base in the four corner holes. From the top add Spacer Tubes © and Weldnuts onto each Flat Head Machine Screw. Do not tighten.
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Set the Top Plate 2 on top of the Base so that the two center screw threads pass through the two center slots on the Top Plate. The outside slots on the Top Plate should line up with the Spacer Tube Assemblies. FIGURE F.
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Place a Nylon Washer on each of the center screw assemblies followed by a Fender Washer. Thread a Knob I onto each of the center screws to secure the Top Plate to the Base.
AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED:- 3 Top Track (2)
- 5/32″ Allen Wrench
-
Slide a Top Track onto the Spacer Tube Assemblies with the single-track side down, until all three Weldnuts are captured in the slot of the Top Track. The back end of the Top Track should be flush with the back edge of the Base.
-
Firmly tighten both Flat Head Screws in the Spacer tube Assembly from underneath. Use the Allen Wrench to secure the center Button Head Screws.
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Repeat steps 12 and 13 for the second Top Track.
AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED- D Work Holding Clamp
- Bridge
- Bridge Handle
- Acrylic Guide
- 1I Knobs (2)
- HARDWARE BAG B
- Hex Head Bolt-A, 1/4 × 20 x 2-1/2″ (2)
- Nylon Washer-A (black), 1/4 × 7/8″ (2)
- Hex Head Bolt-B, 1/4-20 x 1″ (2)
- Nylon Washer-B, 1/4 × 3/4″ (2)
-
Slide the Hex Head Bolt-A into the outside slot of each Top Track. FIGURE H.
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Slide the Work Holding Clamp ® onto the T-slot track on the Bridge &.
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Place the Bridge with the Work Holding Clamp installed so that the Hex Head Bolts-A pass through the pre-drilled holes in the Bridge.
NOTE: Ensure that the Work Holding Clamp is on the same side as the Fence as the Spoil Board. -
Add a Nylon Washer-A to each Hex Head Bolt-A and then thread on the two Bridge Handles © to lock the Bridge in place.
NOTE: Generally, the Work Holding Clamp will be positioned over the center of the workpiece. For now, position the clamp approximately 2″ in front of the Fence and clamp the Bridge in place by hand tightening the Bridge Handles. -
On each end, slide the Hex Bolts head into the outside slot on the front Top Track. Set the Acrylic Guide © in place so that the two Hex Head Bolts-B protrude up through the slots of the Acrylic Guide. FIGURE I.
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Place one Nylon Washer-B onto each Hex Head Bolt-B and loosely thread on the two Knobs I to secure the Acrylic Guide to the Top Track.
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Setting the Acrylic Guide is outlined in Section II.
SETTING THE ACRYLIC GUIDE
Setting the Acrylic Guide only takes a minute, but is vital for proper operation.
-
First, loosen the two Knobs that secure the Acrylic Guide ® to the Top Track 3. FIGURE J.
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Insert a straight 3/4″ scrap wood spacer between the Base and your router fence. The scrap wood spacer may need to be thicker for extremely deep routing cuts size your spacer to prevent contact.
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While holding the Iron-Grip Coping Sled up against the scrap wood spacer and the router fence, slide the Acrylic Guide up against the router fence and tighten the two Knobs.
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Remove the scrap wood spacer and keep the Acrylic Guide tight against the fence. Use the included 3/16″ Ällen Wrench to loosen the Cap Screws on the Spoil Board
-
I. Slide the Spoil Board forward so that it contacts the router fence and then tighten the Cap Screws to secure the Spoil Board in place. FIGURE K
NOTE: The Acrylic Guide and the Spoil The board should be the only part of the Coping Sled that runs against the router fence during use. At no time should the -
The base comes in contact with the router fence or the router bit. For large cutters, it may be necessary to use a wider spacer during setup.
-
INSTALLING YOUR WORKPIECE
- Install your workpiece by placing it on the Base. Ensure the Acrylic Guide is pressed tight against the fence, then slide the workpiece forward against the fence.
- Slide the Top Plate over to press the workpiece firmly against the Spoil Board and tighten the Knobs.
- Position the Work Holding Clamp over the center of the board and turn the Knob to clamp the board in place.
- For a step-by-step on how to make rail and stile doors, scan this QR code. It will take you to our YouTube channel where you can learn how to get the most out of your Iron-Grip Coping Sled.
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