KAYOBA 011424 Fully Automatic Pressure Water Pump Instruction Manual
- June 6, 2024
- KAYOBA
Table of Contents
KAYOBA 011424 Fully Automatic Pressure Water Pump
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
SYMBOLS
TECHNICAL DATA
- Voltage: 12 V
- Current: 3A
- Flow: 7.61/m
- Pump pressure: 3.8 bar
- Size: L 197 x W 127 x H 113 mm
DESCRIPTION
- Pump head, complete Valve set
- Diaphragm set
- Motor unit
- Pressure switch
- Pressure switch diaphragm Pump head
- Diaphragm
- Rubber feet
- Motor
FEATURES
- 4-chamber diaphragm pump.
- Can operate continuously.
- Shunt function for reduced start and stop frequency.
- Dry running resistant during normal load conditions.
- Pressure switch controlled for automatic operation
- Industrial standard fasteners.
- Self-priming.
- Low noise level.
- Spark-proof.
APPLICATIONS
- Pressurised-water systems in boats, caravans and campers.
- Flushing and spray systems (vehicle mounted flushing and spray ramps, electrical spray systems).
- Washing and cleaning machines, air humidifiers, water purification, medical equipment.
- Transport and filling of food, drinks and other liquids.
- Waterborne solar heating systems.
Use
- Insatallation
- The pump can be installed in an optional position. For vertical installation the pump head must face down, so that any faults or damage will not cause leakage into the motor housing.
- Fit the rubber feet, but do not overtighten. Overtightening will clamp the rubber feet too hard to prevent effective damping of noise and vibration.
- The inlet hose should be reinforced and have an internal diameter of at least 13mm. The main line from the pump outlet should have an internal diameter of 13mm. Branch lines and lines to separate consumers should have an internal diameter of at least 10 mm.Build the line system of reinforced hose to minimise vibrations and noise. The hose should be approved for at least double the rated pressure of the pump.
- The inlet pressure can be more than 2 bar over atmospheric pressure. It is best not to let the inlet pressure exceed the atmospheric pressure at all.
- Do not restrict the flow-fit hoses and tubes without creasing or sharp bends and avoid couplings and other installation parts with a high flow resistance.
- Install a strainer on the inlet side of the pump.
- Avoid leakage-fasten all parts firmly and tight, and fully tighten all the couplings.
- Use hose clips on both ends of hoses to prevent air being sucked into the water line.
- Check valves must have a maximum opening pressure of 0.14 bar.
- Do not overtighten if thread tape or other sealing is used -risk of suction into the pump.
- The pump must be connected to a separate circuit. Connect the positive wire (red) to the positive terminal on the vehicle battery, and the negative wire (black) to the negative terminal on the battery.
- Install a power switch in the pump circuit, at an easily accessible place. Switch off the power supply to the pump with the switch if the tank is empty, or if the pump is not going to be used for some time.
- Install a fuse (15 A) in the positive cable on the pump circuit, as protection for overcurrent.
- The pump circuit must only supply the pump with power -no other consumers must be connected to the circuit.
- i Select a cable from the table of Cross- sectional conductor areas. Longer cables require a larger cross-sectional conductor area.
- On completion of the installation, test run the pump and measure the voltage directly on the terminal blocks on the pump motor while the pump is running. The voltage between the motor terminals should be the same as between the terminals on the vehicle battery
- Water tank
- Pump
- Wa Pressure gauge
- Wa Valve
- Wa Outlet
- FIG. 2
NOTE:
• A hose or PEX tube should be used at the pump instead of rigid tubes. If
rigid tubes are used they should be connected to the pump via short hoses, to
prevent the propagation of noise and vibrations.
• Metal couplings and fasteners should be avoided. Use the supplied plastic
components as far as possible.
• Do not attempt to adjust the shunt valve without the help of plumber.
• Inadequate cleanliness or poor maintenance are common reasons
for inferior pump functionality. Maintain the pump at regular intervals and
prepare it properly for the winter, especially before and after prolonged
storage.
Adjusting the closing pressure of the pump and opening pressure of the shunt valve
Pump closing pressure
Unscrew and remove the adjuster screw(no. 1 in fig. 3). Mark the screw in relation to the pressure switch housing to keep an eye on the number of turns. Turn the adjuster screw clockwise 9 to 9.5 turns, see (no. 3 in fig. 3). This increases the closing pressure of the pump to about 4.1 bar.
The opening pressure of the shunt valve
- Unscrew and remove the shunt screw(no. 2 in fig. 3). Mark the screw in relation to the pressure switch housing to keep an eye on the number of turns. Turn the adjuster screw clockwise 10 turns, see(no. 3 in fig. 3). This increases the opening pressure of the shunt valve to about 4.6 bar.
- To check the closing pressure and the opening pressure of the shunt valve, slowly close the drain cock until the pump switches off. The pressure gauge needle will then “flutter” between the closing pressure and the shunt valve’s opening pressure.
Shunt valve
Use a professional plumber if the shunt valve needs adjusting if you are not
sure how to do it correctly. Incorrect adjustment of the shunt valve can
damage the pump.
The pump is supplied with the shunt valve preset for optimal pump
functionality. However in some installations the shunt valve may need
adjusting. Carefully tighten or undo the screw to increase or decrease the
opening pressure of the shunt valve.
TROUBLESHOOTING
| Problem | Possible cause |
|---|
Pulsating flow -the pump has a high start and stop frequency.
| Tubes and hoses can be bent or clenched.
Lines and couplings can have a high flow resistance because of an inadequate
design basis.
Blocked taps and filters- clean.
The installation may not be tight and sucks in air.
High noise level.
| The rubber feet on the pump may be overtensioned (compressed).
The pump may be mounted on a weak surface or bracket, which can amplify noise.
The screws on the pump head or other screw unions may be loose – check and if
necessary retighten.
If the pump is connected directly to a rigid tube, this can amplify noise.
The motor is running but the pump is not self-priming – no outgoing flow.
| Blocked inlet or outlet line.
Air leak in the outlet line.
Punctured pump diaphragm.
Inadequate power supply-the pump does not reach normal speed.
Blocked valves.
Crack in pump housing.
The motor will not start.
| Loose electrical connections, cable failure or other cable fault.
The pump circuit is without voltage.
The fuse or overheating protection for the pump motor has tripped.
Defective pressure switch.
Defective motor.
Pump does not stop when all the drain cocks are closed.
| Punctured pump diaphragm.
Leak in outlet line.
Defective pressure switch.
Insufficient supply voltage.
I Blocked valves in the pump head.
Low flow and low pressure.
| Air leak at pump inlet.
---|---
Impurities in pump and lines.
Worn pump bearings (can manifest as abnorma l noise)
Punctured pump diaphragm.
Defective motor.
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