Nikon Nikkormat Camera User Manual
- June 3, 2024
- Nikon
Table of Contents
Nikon Nikkormat Camera
Nikkormats are easy to use and easy to repair. The ease in repairing these units can be attributed to their modular design. There are basically four pieces: 1) Copal Square shutter, 2) mirror box/metering system, 3) counter, and 4) body frame with transport parts. Nikkormats can be disassembled in a matter of minutes. After you have become accustomed to their design and pattern of behavior, you will be able to give accurate estimates and locate sources of trouble without even taking the camera apart.
by Kenneth Parchinski 
Below are the characteristics of the different models to help in determining which one you have:
- Fs- no meter
- FT – match-needle meter system; manual lens indexing
- FTn – match-needle meter system; automatic lens indexing; shutter speeds visible in viewfinder; multiple slotted take-up spool
- FT-2- same as FTn plus: hot shoe;
“K” screen (having both split image and micro prism focusing aids); single- threaded sync socket
NOTE: the FT-2 is not covered in this article but should be similar
except for sync switching in the new shutter.
Another nice thing about the three models of Nikkormat is their parts
interchangeability. They all use the same Copal Square shutter, wind parts
and most of the mirror box parts. The parts that differ the most are in the
metering section and cosmetic parts.
Many parts can be purchased as a subassembly or as separate small parts.
Sometimes it is faster and cheaper to replace a unit than to repair it,
especially when there is a large number of damaged pieces. There are a few
cosmetic changes in the Nikkormats that usually show up in the next model
design.
Figures 1 through 4 show all the controls of the cameras. In the
illustrations you will note some difference in the bodies, two cameras were
used, an Ft and FTn. Figure 2 shows an Ft model.
Its ASA must be set against the maximum lens aperture.
Figure 4 shows an FTn model. Set the ASA by sliding the black index over the
ASA desired. The maximum lens aperture is set automatically when the lens is
installed. This mechanism is explained later in the article.
Counter, Mirror Box, and Shutter Removal
Remove the bottom cover by unscrewing the two screws shown in Figure 4. The
battery and rewind button will be loose; be careful not to lose them.
To remove the top cover, Fig. 5, start by removing the screw on the side next
to the wind lever. Then remove the two screws holding the front nameplate, and
lift off the nameplate. Note that the FTn has two spacers underneath the
nameplate. Remove the eyepiece (optional).
Next, remove the wind-lever cap screw by turning it counterclockwise sometimes
these can really stick. Open the back cover and insert a tweezer in the rewind
shaft and unscrew the rewind knob counterclockwise. The rewind lever spring
will be loose, Fig. 6; remove it. Using a Multispan wrench, remove the rewind
shaft nut and windlever-screw nut and washer (counterclockwise).
Now you can pull the top cover up. Be careful, as sync wires are attached to
the top cover, Fig. 7. Unsolder the sync wires and the yellow wire on the
circuit board over the pentaprism. Pull the insulator on the red wire back
and unsolder the two red wires.
The counter assembly and its three retaining screws are shown in Figure 8.
Removing the three screws will allow lifting the counter assembly out of the
body. (You won’t be able to remove it completely at this point, however,
because of the meter switch wires.) Remove the wind-lever tube and cam ring,
Fig. 7. Set the shutter “B,” peel back the front leatherette, and remove the
five screws, Fig. 9. Removing the front plate/mirror box is hard the first
time. It’s even harder to install it, but, after doing it once, it doesn’t
seem as difficult. Tilt the mirror box out from the top and pull up while
wiggling it from side to side.
As seen in Fig. 10, the “B” lever sticks out the side of the shutter when set
to “B.” It’s an easy way to tell if it is set right before replacing the
mirror box. To remove the shutter, if necessary, un- screw the two screws at
the top of the blade assembly. The third screw is located at the lower rear of
the body.
The Shutter
Having removed the shutter, you can now either repair it or replace it or one
of its subassemblies if necessary. The four basic pieces of the shutter are
the self timer, the slow speed gear train, the blade assembly, and the speed
mechanism. National Camera has a very good Area Workshop Workbook book on
Copal Square shutters if you are interested in repairing them yourself
.
The Counter
Figure 11 shows the counter subassembly out of the camera body. This assembly
causes very little trouble and is easily fixed. At times it is necessary to
replace the meter switch, which is held by two screws. Be careful of wire
routing as this can cause counter problems. The next problem usually
encountered is the indicator plate being loose. Align the plate with “S,”
tighten the screw, and add a dab of glue to the screw. Another possible
problem is that the counter doesn’t count or counts two numbers at a time.
This can be adjusted with the two adjustments provided. Use the minor
adjustment first and, if it’s not enough, use the major adjustment.
The Meter System
To turn on the meter system, the wind lever must be pulled out past the red
dot on the top cover. The resistance of the variable resistor is determined by
the ASA-shutter speed-flstop setting.
To calibrate the meter system, set in ASA 100 at f/5.6 and check the
following points: EV 14 1/500; EV 11 1/60;EV9 1/15.Calibrate by moving the
meter calibrating arm in the meter movement cutout, Fig. 12. Then turn off the
meter to see if a correct “off” position is obtained as in diagram 1.
If the indicator points below the off position, change R2 (in the plastic
sleeve) and start the calibration procedure all over again. To replace the
meter, remove screws 1 and 2, and the rewind shaft housing, and slide out the
meter. The most frequent cause of trouble is when the needle jumps while
turning the f/stop or speed ring. This is due to a bad variable resistor ring
which is covered later in this text.
Advance Mechanism Cocking
Figure 13 shows the bottom of the camera body. It is always good to check the
tripod screws for tightness. stroke cam is connected to the wind lever with
the takeup spool shaft. The rack cocks the shutter and the mirror box. A top
view of the advance mechanism is shown in Figure 14. Note the new type of
sprocket-gear driver. To start dis· assembly of the top wind section, Fig. 15,
hold the release shaft at point A while turning the top of the releaseshaft
plate from positon B to C.
If the lower part of the release shaft slips while the upper part is being
turned, it will bend the B lever that is lower on the shaft, Fig. 10. To
disassemble the rest of the pieces of the top transport section, push the pin
out of the spool shaft. It is a good idea to scribe a mark on each piece as it
is removed to indicate the correct position for reassembly. The order of
disassembly of the transport pieces is shown in Figure 16.
To remove the take-up base metal, remove the three screws shown in Figure 17
and lift up the plate. Note the old type sprocket gear driver. The spool-
driving unit is shown in Figure 18. The tab fits into a cutout in the spool.
You may wish to disassemble this unit and clean it. Apply only a slight amount
of grease to the spool spring. Spool tension is adjusted by bending the spool
spring.
To remove the sprocket, it is only necessary to remove the top and bottom
covers of the camera and the counter assembly. Remove the sprocket-gear driver
and the sprocket screw, Fig. 19. Remove the sprocket shaft from the bottom of
the camera. Be careful not to lose the spring and washer in the sprocket. In
Figure 20 the new type and old type sprocket shafts and driving systems are
shown. Either one may be substituted if al I the correct parts are used with
the right shaft.
Figure 21 shows the old one-piece take-up spool. If it is necessary to
replace a take-up spool, update it to the new multiplot type. The only
critical timing point on the top winding section is between the sprocket and
the take-up gear, Fig. 22. Determine whether the camera has old or new type
spool and set accordingly before installing the take-up gear.
To remove the old type sprocket drivers, refer to Figure 22: just remove the
screw and I ift up the gear. Refer to Figure 14 for the new type sprocket gear
driver. To remove it, hold the sprocket while turning the screw clockwise
(left-hand thread). Then unscrew the driver and lift up the gear.
The timing of the bottom wind system is simple and retiming will only be
necessary if the shutter or rack was removed. The rack pin must pass through
the mirror cocking lever, Fig.
26. Push the shutter-cocking gear towards the spool end of the camera until a
resistance is felt, then install the rack. Try cocking the shutter to confirm
a slight overtravel, Fig. 10.
The Mirror Box
If the shutter speed setting ring is either hard to turn or has a lot of
slack, adjust it by moving the idler gear adjust· mint plate shown in Figure
23. When installing the shutter-speed ring or mirror box, set the shutter-
speed ring to “B,” Fig. 24. After replacing the mirror box or speed ring,
check to see if the numbers center next to the indicator by going up and down
the scale. If they don’t, remove and change the timing one gear tooth at a
time until it’s right. Figure 25 shows the eccentric for the mirror-angle
adjustment. You can adjust the view finder focus with this screw if it is not
too far out of adjust· mint. It is a good idea to make a special screwdriver
for this purpose. Grind the tip of a screwdriver to approximately a 45-degree
angle.
Figure 26 shows an inside view of the rack pin passing through a slot in the
mirror-cocking lever. The small seesaw lever to the right of the mirror
cocking lever is the latch for holding the right-side coupling lever when the
mirror box is cocked.
Next, study Figures 27, 28 and 29. To duplicate the action of the mirror box
in the camera body, hold the right· side coupling lever back while pushing the
bottom coupling lever forward until it is latched by the set lever. Upon re-
leasing the right-side coupling lever, the mirror will go up. Pushing the side
signal will allow the set lever to release the coupling lever. This allows the
mirror own lever to return the mirror to the viewing position.
Now for a step-by-step explanation. The right-side coupling lever is held by
its latch in the bottom of the camera body. When cocking the camera, the rack
pushes the mirror-cocking lever against the bottom coupling lever, which is
latched by the set lever. When the release shaft is pressed, it pushes the
large see-saw lever down which releases the coupling lever latch. This allows
the right-side coupling lever to move forward. And this allows the mirror-up
spring and lever to raise the mirror plate. When the mirror is almost to the
top, the left coupler lever has traveled far enough to release the shutter.
When the second blade of the Copal Square shutter has covered the focal plane
aperture following the exposure, another part of the shutter mechanism pushes
against the side signal lever which in turn allows the set lever to release
the bottom coupling lever. This allows the mirror own lever to return to the
released position and lowers the mirror plate. There are a few modifications
to the mirror box that are easy to understand. Some levers were not covered
but they can be figured out by using the stepdown lever and mirror-lock-up.
Also not covered were the speed indicator parts and strings.
An easy way to install the mirror box is to first set the speed ring to “B,”
then place the mirror-up holding lever under the see-saw lever and, without
letting go, press and hold down the release shaft. This will hold all the
release parts in their proper places while installing the mirror box. Check
the cocking and releasing and self-timer operations before installing all of
the mirror box-front plate retaining screws.
Front Rings and the Variable Resistor
Remove four screws and lift off the bayonet mounting ring from the bayonet,
Fig. 30. There is a spring under the bayonet that is easily lost, Fig. 31, and
should be removed. The diaphragm coupling ring has a long spring under it
that is attached to the pin on the V R ring, Fig. 32.
Figure 33 shows an Ft variable resistor and the ASA clip spring for changing
maximum aperture. Push in on the spring to change the setting. The pin on the
ASA Spring wears out and should be replaced if necessary. Remove the four
bayonet base screws, Fig. 33, and lift the rings up together. Figure 34 shows
the three pieces in order of disassembly. Figure 35 shows an TN diaphragm
coupling ring with its spring still attached.
To automatically index a lens, set the lens to f/5.6. The diaphragm-coupling
ring should be at the spring-click stop. Put the lens on with the lens coupler
and diaphragm-coupler-ring pin lined up. As the lens diaphragm is turned
counterclockwise, the ratchet-release plate presses the lever under the
diaphragm coupler and the long spring pulls the variable resistor ring around
to past 5.6 in the side cutout of the diaphragm coupling ring. Then, as you
turn the lens diaphragm clockwise to the maximum aperture, the lever of the
diaphragm-coupling ring locks into the variable resistor ring and the maximum
aperture is set. If it doesn’t work right, suspect either dirt or grease as
the cause.
Figure 36 shows the bayonet base and conductor strip. The conductor strip, at
times, becomes unglued or tarnishes. It’s best to replace it with a new one.
Remove the old glue and use
Polybond to fasten the new one in place. Secure it with a rubber band until it
dries.
Figure 37 shows the variable resistor ring. Sometimes the carbon on the V R is
ok, but the brushes are loose arid can cause the needle to jump when speeds or
f/stops are changed. Brushes can be repaired by applying some flux and using a
little solder. Then bend the brushes inward and see if it works. Note that
there are two types of variable resistors, one for the Ft and one for the
FTn. They come in black and chrome. There are at least three types of bayonet
bases, so use the proper replacement.
loose Ends
Si nee the camera is so modular, it is easy to tell I where and what the
problems are. The order of meter troubles, from most common to rare, is:
battery, switch, variable-resistor ring, meter coil, cells, and wire.
Some cameras come in jammed and it helps to remove the bottom cover and remove
the rack. If the camera can now be wound and released, the jam is on the
bottom. If still jammed, the problem is on the top section.
If the jam is on the bottom, cock the shutter and cock the mirror box with a
pair of tweezers. If the rack is replaced and the shutter is cocked -and sit
11 nothing happens-the problem most likely is in the mirror box_ If the mirror
goes up when the release button is pressed, but the shutter doesn’t release,
the problem’s in the shutter. Happy repairing!!
Miscellaneous items for a fraction of their original cost. Specify item number. Address order to Parts Department, National Camera, 2000 W. Union Ave., Englewood, Colo. 80110.
PD-115
Simmon Omega, Automega O-3/Omega D-2 etc., condenser lens Cat. #427-102 3-1
/2″ dia. 1 ea. $4 .00
PD-133
- Strobe/Flash Coiled cords
- Individually boxed
- PD-133-KE, Standard (Double prong Household)
- To Kine Exakta
- PD-133-M3, Standard to Leica M3
- PO-133-Gra, Standard to Graflex (Solenoid)
- PO-133-PH, Standard to Polaroid Hi
Lander
- PO-133-SC3, Standard to Argus C3
- PD-133-C3C3, Argus C3 Male to Female
- PD-133-EXA, Standard to Exakta/Exa
- PD-133-C4, Argus C4 to C4
- PD-133-PR, Standard to P.R.
Limited Supply $.50 ea.
-
PO-135
-
Petri 7S (5 blade diaphragm) shutter assy. 1 available. $15.00
-
PD-150
-
Nikon Super Zoom 8 Pistol Grip/ Battery compartment SKB-B1 $16.0
-
PD-168
Agfa Optima 11 Exposure meter and cell assy. $17 .50 -
PD-220
Polaroid Automatic 220 Complete shutter assy, includes base block and mod- ule, housing, lenses etc. -
Only 1 in stock $17.50
-
PD-230
Polaroid Automatic 230. Complete shutter assembly. Includes base block and module, housing, lenses. etc. -
Only 1 in stock $17 .50
MINIMUM ORDER is 3.50
You may avoid the $3.50 minimum by establishing a parts deposit of $25.00. All
parts will be deducted from your deposit, and you will receive a debit memo
(not an invoice) for each transaction. Keep an accurate record of your
balance and be sure to maintain a sufficient amount to assure prompt shipment.
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