Meteor Svendsen 1 Wood Stove Instruction Manual

: May 15, 2024
: Meteor

**Meteor Svendsen 1 Wood Stove Instruction Manual

**

Introduction

Introduction / important

It is a difficult decision to choose one wood stove among many. In our opinion, you have made the right choice. You have chosen a quality product at an extremely favorable price. Congratulations on that.

To take full advantage of your extremely sensible decision, read this booklet carefully.
Without a well-functioning chimney, not even a modern wood stove can burn. It becomes
sluggish, seems “lazy” and “inconspicuous”. No product can live up to its best without the person handling it having learned the basics of operating a wood stove. Knowing what wood to be used, as well as having gained an understanding that the chimney is the “engine” of any combustion. Save this instructions pamphlet for future references

NOTE! Before you light up, be aware that the varnish on the wood stove hardens the first times the wood stove heats up. It will smell a bit. Ensure good ventilation. The varnish becomes a little sticky and vulnerable, therefore opening the door must be done with the utmost care, as the gasket in the door wants to stick to the soft varnish. This applies to all surfaces of the wood stove.

All illustrations in this manual show a Svendsen 1 wood stove. However, all the explanations apply to both Svendsen 1 and Svendsen 2. It will appear in text and illustration in cases where there is a significant difference between the two wood stoves

Safety

General safety information

Check regularly that the locking systems in the ash drawer and door are tightened and properly adjusted so that the doors create the necessary tightness that is always so important for the stove. At the same time, check that the gaskets provide the tightness that is essential for good combustion and protect the stove against overheating with the risk of irreparable damage.

REMEMBER we work with extremely high temperatures in the oven.

Take a strip of paper about 2 cm wide and about 20 cm long. Hold this between the door and the oven and close the door. Gently pull on the paper strip. If there is good resistance, the tightness is present. If there is little resistance, replace the gasket immediately. The gasket has lost volume, and no longer forms the necessary tightness, although it may still look nice. This check with the paper strip is carried out with 5 cm distance all the way around the door and the ash drawer door. Use only original Svendsen gaskets, otherwise the warranty will lapse.

The individual parts of the wood stove

individual parts

A The convection air out
B The smoke nozzle
C The cleaning lid
D The secondary air valve
E Door for the combustion chamber
F Handle for grate
G The primary air valve
H The ash drawer
I The rear exit
J The name plate
K The convection air in

Unpacking the wood stove

Unpack Svendsen 1 and lift it off the pallet. Put the oven on two strips of carpet residue or heavy cardboard. These are placed in parallel under the front and rear straps. Now, without scratching, the stove can be pushed into the desired place. The oven is lifted slightly forward, and the rear strip is removed. After this, the oven is lifted slightly obliquely backwards, and the front strip is removed

The oven is now in the right place. It is best to be two about this work, since the stove weighs a good 167 kg.
Unpacking the wood stove

Arrangement of the wood stove

Pay attention to the national and local regulations for the installation of wood-burning stoves. If in doubt, you can always ask the local chimney sweep for advice. In any case, he must be contacted to inspect the installation. He will create a customer profile for you for later statutory chimney cleaning. However, it is yourself or your craftsman who is responsible for compliance with the legislation.

The local chimney sweep

If the stove is to be connected to an existing chimney which is not fully known or which has not been
used for a long time, the chimney sweep should in any case inspect the chimney condition outside as
well as inside. For example, cracks cause leaks, which in turn drastically reduce the buoyancy in the
chimney. The result is that the stove will not burn, and the glass will turn black, as the “engine” will not work as it should.

Location of the wood stove and distance requirements

When the walls where the furnace is to be erected are of combustible material, the distance measurements as indicated on the marking plate at the back of the furnace must be strictly observed.

f the walls are made of non-combustible material, there are no distance requirements to comply with. Here we recommend 7 -10 cm between wall and oven. The oven can better distribute heat and cleaning is possible. One layer of wallpaper on a wall is usually referred to as non-combustible material. Minimum distance to combustible material:

At the sides of the furnace: 250 mm. Furnishing distance 1100 mm.

Behind the stove : 125 mm. The distance is applicable with insulated chimney down to the stud or with a radiation screen behind the chimney.

Behind the stove : 150 mm. The distance applies with uninsulated chimney with and without the radiation plate behind the stove.

NOTE : when using an uninsulated chimney, the distance requirements for the chimney must always be observed
Behind the stove

Behind the stove : 100 mm. The distance applies with insulated chimney down to the stud or with beam screen behind the chimney and beam plate behind the stove.

NOTE : the 100 mm is from wall to oven (without the plate)
Behind the stove

Behind the stove by corner mounting : 150 mm. The distance applies with uninsulated chimney with and without radiation plate behind the stove.

NOTE : when using an uninsulated chimney, the distance requirements for the chimney must always be observed
Behind the stove

Where the furnace is installed on a combustible floor, national and local regulations concerning the size of a noncombustible substrate under the furnace shall be complied with. You may want to talk to your local chimney sweeper or dealer

One must always make sure that the floor under the stove can support the entire installation.

The furnishing distance is 110 cm. That is, the safety distance to combustible material in front of the furnace. In any case, you should probably keep a greater distance just in case.
Since the oven gets very hot during operation, the utmost care must be taken

The chimney

Local regulations often allow several closed fireplaces to be connected to the same chimney as, for example, oil burners or other wood-burning stoves. However, the rule applies that all fireplaces for the same chimney must be closed fireplaces. The connection in the chimney must have a height difference of at least 30 cm between the pipes. Gas boilers and wood stoves must never be connected to the same chimney.

The chimney lighting must comply at least with national and local requirements. The clearance should generally be 150 mm in diameter for steel chimneys and for ceramic liners or brick chimneys we recommend 175 to 180 mm in diameter. They must be well insulated and pressure-tight along their entire length, preferably indoors. Any cleaning hatches must be tight-fitting.

In Denmark, there are minimum requirements for chimney height, which must always be observed. It must be high enough to provide the necessary buoyancy for good combustion and to avoid smoke nuisances for neighbors and surroundings. An effective height of 3.5 to 4.5 m is usually sufficient. The working height is measured from the top of the furnace to the top of the chimney. The mouth of the chimney should always be at least 80 cm higher than the roof ridge when its location approaches the center of the house and be at least as high as the roof ridge when approaching the gutter of the house. Pay special attention to the legislation when installing chimneys on thatched houses, as well as the insurance provisions of the individual company. Chimneys and smoke pipes must in most cases be equipped with one or more cleaning hatches

The size of the hatch must be at least equal to that of the chimney or flue. The chimney arch must be
immediately visible for inspection by the chimney sweep. There must be free and unhindered access to cleaning hatches

Pipe connections

The smoke plug is in the ash drawer. The oven is prepared for installation at the top since the rear outlet is covered by a plate. If you want the oven mounted with a rear outlet, remove the cover plate on the back and screw the stud to the back. The cover plate for the top outlet is supplied as standard. Check that the smoke turning plates, stones and grates lie correctly after transport.

Connection to a brick chimney

A pipe sleeve is fixed in the chimney, through which the smoke pipe is led into the chimney opening.
Neither the bushing nor the pipe must be so long that it protrudes into the clearing itself. Between the bushing and flue pipe and between the stove’s spigot and flue pipe, carefully seal with glass gasket. This is not normally necessary between the individual pipes, as these are usually closely matched. The national and local regulations for the dimensioning of flues must be observed. However, we recommend at least 1.5 mm folded or 2 mm welded pipes, as these have a significantly longer service life.

Connection to a steel chimney

If the chimney is mounted directly on top of the stove and vertically up through the ceiling and roof, the national and local regulations must be strictly observed. For fire reasons, it is important that the applicable fire clearances in ceiling penetrations and for load-bearing structures are respected to the letter.

Should an accident happen and a chimney fire occurs, the air dampers in the oven must be closed
and the fire brigade immediately alerted. This can happen with prolonged misfiring. The stove gets too little air and or the firewood is too wet.

A stove draws best with a flue pipe with as few kinks as possible, with as tight joints as possible, and
always best with the flue pipe mounted on top of the stove

Fresh air supply to the combustion air. To achieve a good combustion, sufficient combustion air must be supplied. A wood-burning stove is therefore the indirect cause of a good indoor climate. It consumes air and moisture in the room. Therefore, it may be necessary to have an outside air valve in the room where the stove is installed, as compensation for the air consumed. However, this is usually only necessary for particularly tight-fitting housing constructions. Here, a powerful extractor hood can create so much negative pressure that, in the worst case, the oven goes out, or that smoke comes out of the oven when the door is opened.

Draft conditions in the chimney

f the oven seems sluggish or smoke escapes when the oven door is opened, there is too little draft in
the chimney. The oven requires a chimney draft of 12 Pa. to create the necessary negative pressure
in the furnace. Only here does the stove burn normally and smoke escapes are avoided. In the event of excessive combustion or, on the contrary, when the stove has only been smoldering for a while, smoke can also be expected. Keep the stove at good operating temperature with clear, lively pale-yellow flames. This creates buoyancy and a good combustion economy.
The flue gas temperature at nominal output is approx. 240 C at a room temperature of 20 C. The flue
gas mass flow is 6.3 gr./sec.

Draft condition

The draft or buoyancy occurs between the hot flue gas and the colder temperature outside the chimney. The chimney’s insulation, diameter and wind and weather conditions are important factors for a good dra

Poor traction can be caused by:

Poor insulation – The temperature difference is too small (suggested solution: ignite a newspaper in the cleaning limb)
The outside temperature has become too high – It has become spring / summer.
The weather is “heavy”, humid, and windless.
The chimneys, connections or cleaning member are leaky – There are other leaky places on the chimney.
Flues and or the chimney may be clogged and need cleaning.
The house is too tight – the extractor hood is too powerful and inhibits buoyancy (suggested solution: install an outside air valve in the room.
The chimney is too short – A chimney cap interferes with the free buoyancy – The chimney is not high enough in relation to other roofs – Surrounding trees may have grown too large – Unwanted foreign objects may have ended up in the chimney

Fire up instructions / Using the oven

The oven is regulated using 2 rotary valves. In principle, the upper one (A) is used exclusively for firewood. Svendsen 1 has been tested according to the common European standard DS / EN 13240. The nominal power of the oven is 6 kW.
Fire up instructions

Before the first firing: It must be considered that the paint must harden. Be especially careful with the gasket, it can stick to the paint. Therefore, open the door very carefully the first few times. When the paint dries, it emits a sweet smell and smoke. Ensure good ventilation. This is completely normal at first. Do not touch the paint, it i very vulnerable at this stage as it is soft and sticky. The setting of the air valve can vary greatly from place to place, as the chimneys are different, and the weather and wind conditions are not the same. It takes a bit of getting used to before you have experienced the oven under all conceivable conditions

Virtually all types of wood can be used as fuel in your new Svendsen oven if the wood is dry and of
the right size. Wood must be split immediately after felling. It must be stored under cover with good
ventilation for at least 1 year, preferably 2 years before burning. The firewood must not be longer than that there is 2-3 cm of air between the end of the wood and the side of the fire chamber. The pieces of firewood should preferably be split and no thicker than a forearm

Chipboard painted and impregnated wood and colored paper must not be used as fuel as it emits extremely toxic fumes. Never use driftwood, it is salty and therefore attacks both the inner steel of the oven, the stones, and the glass, while the smoke quickly breaks down the inside of the chimney and corrodes the hood. Liquid fuels may not be used in a Svendsen oven.

Lighting and firing

A cold oven must always be started with plenty of air. The door must be closed for the first 7-10
minutes and the top air valve (secondary air) opened completely

The ash tray valve is closed. The oven must be started with 2 to 2.5 kg. Small sticks to quickly
develop so much heat that the chimney provides the necessary buoyancy, and the interior of the
oven is heated.

1. The kindling sticks are stacked in the oven like a log house or a raft with 2-4 kindling tablets, we recommend using the top down method.
The secondary air (A) is opened completely. The valve in the ash hatch (B) must always be closed. Ignite the Spirit Blocks. The oven door is closed tightly with the handle in a horizontal position so that the door stands approx. 1 cm. open; the next 7-10 minutes.
The ash door and air valve must never be left open during lighting and firing.
After approx. 10 minutes you can try to close the door all the way in. If they continue to be lively, flames are already pulling the chimney, otherwise open the door for 5 more minutes. The stove will now burn for 15-20 minutes longer before the kindling sticks are converted to embers. The door must always be opened slowly so that the chimney can adjust to the new ones, thereby avoiding smoke escaping from the stove, especially in poor draft conditions.
Lighting must be done while there are still 2-3 cm of embers in the oven. Spread the embers into an even layer with a poker, on the bottom of the firebox, but so that there are most embers at the front of the oven.
Place 3 pieces of firewood approx. 700 to 800 grams in one layer on the embers with a mutual
distance of 1 cm. Always leave the round side of the bark facing upwards and backwards in the oven, and the split sides forward and downwards in the embers. It ignites faster and provides faster heat for the necessary buoyancy in the chimney. The length of the firewood must not exceed 28 – 33 cm.
Immediately close the oven door fully. Leave the secondary valve (A) fully open. The wood will usually ignite after a few minutes.
After 2-5 minutes, the secondary air can be turned down so that it is matched to the heating requirement. To maintain an optimal and economical combustion, do not turn down further than until there are still clear light yellow lively flames. The oven will now be able to burn approx. 1 hour before it has burned down to a glowing layer of 2-3 cm.
9. Now you must fire again. Repeat exactly as in points 5 & 6 & 7 & 8.
If the heat demand is less, less fire is fired. It is of the utmost importance to maintain a good glow layer, to ignite the firewood and provide buoyancy in the chimney. Add a little less firewood and give a little less secondary air and fire a little more often but with smaller pieces of firewood. The firewood must be completely dry. Never completely close the secondary air.
When the firewood has been extinguished for gas, i.e. transformed into red-hot charcoal, the
secondary air can be completely turned down if there is a thick layer of embers. This extends the combustion over a long period, and the oven emits less heat.
If more heat is desired, the embers are leveled again, as described before with most embers at the front of the oven.

A large handful of kindling sticks is placed on the embers and the secondary air is opened.
Everything is repeated as previously described.
A little heat: Fire a little but often. With smaller and completely dry pieces of firewood with less air.
Very hot: Larger lumps of firewood with more air

Necessary maintenance of the wood stove

External maintenance of the oven

The oven is lacquered with the original SENOTHERM lacquer. Cleaning is best done with a vacuum
cleaner brush or with a soft car brush.
Should the oven need a touch up along the way, it can be done with Stenotherm lacquer in a spray can. In either black or gray metallic. The can is shaken extremely vigorously as otherwise it will not
get the same color shade. NOTE The oven is thoroughly cleaned before it is sprayed. The oven must not be in operation, as the lacquer is flammable in its liquid state. Spray only a light mist at a time and repeat several times if necessary. The spray can must be at least room temperature.

Stenotherm spray is available from your local fireplace dealer.

nternal maintenance of the oven

When firing, as previously described with dry wood and a proper chimney, the glass stays clean. Should the glass still become sooty due to incorrect firing, it can be easily cleaned with glass cleaner, which is available from the local fireplace dealer. The glass must be cold, otherwise it will not work. Make sure that the liquid does not run into the gaskets. It rusts and breaks down the gasket.

What causes sooted glass:

Wet firewood – Too few embers – Too large lumps of wood – Too low combustion temperature – Too little buoyancy in the chimney – Too little air supply – Leaky chimney

Should a stone break, it is of no importance if it does not fall out. However, it can easily be removed
and replaced with a new one. The Skimo flue baffle is gradually broken down by the intense heat. In this case, it must be replaced, as it is important for good combustion and protects the rest of the stove and especially the chimney from the colossal heat that develops

Never hesitate to replace the gaskets. As soon as there is a hint that the stove will burn a little faster than usual, or the stove cannot be “choked”, the gaskets must be replaced immediately. Otherwise, the furnace is transformed into forge with meltdown as a result. Use only the original Svendsen gasket, otherwise the warranty does not cover it. You can easily end up having to change the gasket 1 to 2 times in a firing season, depending on how much and how strongly you have fired.

Always fire with care, even the best materials and the best construction are here exposed to immense temperatures and forces, which are all-destructive if used incorrectly. Also make sure to empty the ash when the ash layer is over 2 cm thick. A thicker layer of ash raises the fire to a level where the combustion can have a destructive effect on the smoke plate and the stove.

ATTENTION! ALL replaceable parts must be replaced with original Svendsen parts, as these have been approved during the tests. The construction must not be interfered with in any way, by making unauthorized changes, as this may have unintended consequences, and the legislative basis on which the stove is approved has been removed

Cause of degradation of internal parts

Use of air through the ash drawer – Too strong firing (read about amount of firewood) – Kiln-dried wood – Too much ash at the bottom of the stove – Leaky seals in the door / Ash door / Glass seal.

Use only the original gaskets Ø 14 mm gray knitted through.
ATTENTION! Wear parts are not covered by warranty

Cleaning the oven and sections

The chimney sweep must, in addition to sweeping the chimney and the flues belonging to it, also empty the stove of soot. Clean the oven and sections yourself as needed. A clean oven provides better draft, better economy, and better heat. Inspect the furnace or section through the cleaning member on the top of the furnace.

It is important on the basic model to clean the smoke funnel under the smoke outlet on the stove
so that it does not get soot.
The small member of 13 x 15 cm in the front of the smoke funnel must be removed before fitting a
section. This results in greater heat utilization and less scooting of the section.

The large Skimo smoke plate just above the fireplace is also regularly taken out and shaken off for soot. This simultaneously checks whether the plate is whole and undamaged by the heat. It must be replaced immediately if cracks form.
The ash drawer is regularly emptied of ash, as otherwise it will block the ash that you want to shake down from the bottom of the firebox. Remember that there must not be more than 2 cm of ash on the bottom of the oven

Disposal of the ashes: The ashes should always be disposed of via the day-to- day waste disposal service, as they may contain heavy metals that are harmful to nature when burning brochures and the like.
Remember, the ashes may contain embers even after several days. Pour it into a metal bucket and put it outside to cool for 2-3 days before it ends up in the garbage bag.

The wear parts of the stove

Wear parts for Svendsen wood stove

| Description| quantity| item number Svendsen 1| item number Svendsen 2
---|---|---|---|---
A| Gasket, ash hatch, Ø14| 1| 0,95 m| 0,90 m
B| Glass, pane in door to firebox, 4mm| 1| 334 x 290 mm| 310 x 290 mm
C| Gasket, door to combustion chamber, Ø14| 1| 1,55 m| 1,50 m
D| Screw, bracket for glass| 6| M5 x 8| M5 x 8
E| Gasket around glass| 1| Ø6 steel grid135 mm| Ø6 steel grid135 mm
F| Stone holder frame| 1| 1152| 2152
G| Smoke inverter plate| 1| |
H| Front edge for the smoke inverter plate| 1| 1153| 2153
I| Stone set sides complete| 1 set| 1151| 2151
J| Bottom grate| 1 set| 1158| –
K| Shaker| 1| 1156| 2156
L| Grid frame| 1| 1155| 2155

Accessories

Accessories for a Svendsen wood stove

Description| quantity| item number Svendsen 1| item number Svendsen 2
---|---|---|---
A       Soapstone top plate| 1| 1212| –
B       Universal socket, 60 cm| 1| 1111| 2103
D      Baking tray door| 1| 1107| –