AIRMAR DST800 Retractable with Valve Instruction Manual

OWNER’S GUIDE & INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Thru-Hull Mount: Retractable with Valve
TRIDUCER® Multisensor
Models: DST800, DST810
Patent http://www.airmar.com/patent.html

DST800 Retractable with Valve

Follow the precautions below for optimal product performance and to reduce the risk of property damage, personal injury, and/or death.
WARNING: Always wear safety glasses, a dust mask, and ear protection when installing.
WARNING: The valve is not a watertight seal! Always install the insert or blanking plug. Be sure it is fully inserted into the housing and the cap nut is screwed on completely for a watertight seal.
WARNING: All the O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal.
Do not dry fit the insert in the housing. Attempting to install the insert without lubricating all O-rings will damage them, possibly preventing full insertion and a watertight seal.
WARNING: The YELLOW O-ring must be in place near the top of the insert to make a watertight seal.
WARNING: To retrofit the insert in a housing without a valve, the insert must have a BLACK O-ring near the top to make a watertight seal.
WARNING: Always attach the safety wire to prevent the insert or blanking plug from backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is screwed on incorrectly.
WARNING: Immediately check for leaks when the boat is placed in the water. Do not leave the boat unchecked for more than three hours. Even a small leak may allow considerable water to accumulate.
WARNING: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—Be sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten the hull nut with the washer against the isolation bushing, as the housing will not be firmly installed.
CAUTION: Never pull, carry, or hold the sensor by its cable. This may sever internal connections.
CAUTION: The arrow on the top of the insert must point forward toward the bow to align with the water flow.
CAUTION: Plastic housing—Never use a fairing with a plastic housing; the protruding sensor would be vulnerable to damage from impact.
CAUTION: Metal housing—Never install a metal housing in a vessel with a positive ground system.
CAUTION: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—A stainless steel housing must be isolated from a metal hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion. Use the isolation bushing supplied.
CAUTION: Never use solvents. Cleaner, fuel, sealant, paint, and other products may contain solvents that can damage plastic parts, especially the transducer’s face.
CAUTION: Never power sand or pressure wash the sensor.
It may weaken the structure or damage the internal components.

Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.
Part No:____Serial No:
DateFrequency____kHz
Smart™ Sensor

DST800
plastic low-profile P617V housing

CAST™ App for DST810

Download the Airmar CAST App to evaluate your boat’s performance by viewing and analyzing DST810 sensor data. With the CAST App you can perform depth, speed, temperature, and attitude calibrations.
Install the CAST App on your iOS or Android device with Bluetooth® connectivity. Then view available NMEA data over a wireless or network connection. Within the Cast App, you can linkto and download the CAST App User Guide.
Downloading the CAST App

1. Go to the App Store or Google Play Store.
2. Search on the word Airmar.
3. Download the free CAST App

Important
Read the instructions completely before proceeding with the installation. These instructions supersede any other instructions in your instrument manual if they differ.

Applications

• Best performance on hull deadrise angle through 7°.
  Accommodates up to a 22° deadrise angle.

• Plastic housing recommended for fiberglass or metal hull only.
  Never install a plastic housing in a wood hull, since swelling of the wood can possibly fracture the plastic.

• Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hull.
  Never mount a bronze housing in a metal hull because electrolytic corrosion will occur.

• Stainless steel housing compatible with all hull materials.
  Recommended for a metal hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion provided the stainless steel housing is isolated from the metal hull.

Pretest
Connect the sensor to the instrument and spin the paddlewheel. Check for a speed reading and the approximate air temperature. If there are no readings or they are inaccurate, check all the connections and repeat the test. If there are still no readings or they are inaccurate, return the product to the place of purchase.

Figure 1. Anti-fouling coating
Copyright © 2006 – 2023 Airmar Technology Corp

Tools & Materials

Safety glasses
Dust mask
Ear protection
Water-based anti-fouling coating (mandatory in saltwater)
Electric drill [Ø 10 mm (3/8″) or larger chuck capacity] Drill bit: Ø 3mm or 1/8″
Hole saw: Ø 51mm or 2″ (plastic or metal housing in non-metal hull)
Ø 57mm or 2-1/4″ (stainless steel housing in metal hull)
Sandpaper
Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)
File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)
Slip-joint pliers (installing a metal housing)
Grommet(s) (some installations)
Cable ties
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (page 4): Hole saw for hull interior: Ø 60mm or 2-3/8″
Fiberglass cloth and resin or Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy

Anti-fouling Coating

Surfaces exposed to saltwater will maintain peak performance if a quality anti-fouling coating is applied to them. Only use water based anti-fouling coating made for transducers such as Propspeed® Foul-Free™. Coatings should only be applied to the surfaces listed below and illustrated (Figure1).
Do NOT paint the paddlewheel or the paddlewheel channel or in the axle insert hole on the outside wall of the insert. Paint in the paddlewheel channel, paddlewheel or on the paddlewheel axle will impact the speed reporting function of the instrument.
The use of the provided blanking plug while the boat is stationary for a length of time is recommended.
Never use ketone-based paint since ketones can attack many plastics possibly damaging the sensor. It is easier to brush on anti-fouling coating before installation but allow sufficient drying time before installation. Re-coat every 6 months or at the beginning of each boating season.
Only coat the following surfaces:

• Outside wall of the insert below the lower O-ring (Avoid painting over the axle insert hole for the paddlewheel shaft)
• Exposed end of the insert
• Exterior flange of the housing
• Bore of the housing up 30mm (1-1/4″)
• Blanking plug below the lower O-ring including the exposed end

Figure 2. Best location for transducer
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp

Mounting Location

CAUTION: Do not mount the sensor in line with or near water intake or discharge openings, or behind strakes, fittings, or hull irregularities that will disturb the water flow.

• The water flowing under the hull must be smooth with a minimum of bubbles and turbulence, especially at high speeds.
• The sensor must be continuously immersed in water at all speeds.
• The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or propeller shaft(s).
• Choose a location away from interference caused by power and radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that can be used.
• Choose a location with a minimum deadrise angle, so the transducer beam will be aimed at the bottom.
• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with adequate space for the height of the housing, tightening the nuts, and installing the insert. Allow a minimum of 280mm (11″).
• DST810—The sensor must be within range of 5m (16′) to connect to the Airmar CASTTM App on mobile devices.

Boat Types (Figure 2)

• Displacement hull powerboats—Locate amidships near the centerline. The side of the hull where the propeller blades are moving downward is preferred.

• Planing hull powerboats—Mount well aft, on or near the centerline, and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to ensure that the sensor will be in contact with the water at high speeds. The side of the hull where the propeller blades are moving downward is preferred.
  Outboard and I/O—Mount just forward of the engine(s).
  Inboard—Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).
  Stepped hull—Mount just ahead of the first step.
  Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29MPH)—Review the installation location and operating results of similar boats before proceeding.

• Fin keel sailboats—Mount on or near the centerline and forward of the fin keel 300 to 600mm (1–2′).

• Full keel sailboats—Locate amidships and away from the keel at the point of minimum deadrise.

Installation

Hole Drilling
Cored fiberglass hull—Follow separate instructions on page 4.

1. Drill a Ø 3mm or 1/8″ pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib, strut or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting location, drill from the outside.
2. Using the appropriate size hole saw, cut a hole perpendicular to the hull from outside the hull.
3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
   Metal hull—Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.

Bedding
CAUTION: Be sure the surfaces to be bedded are clean and dry.
Apply a 2mm (1/16″) thick layer of marine sealant around the flange of the housing that contacts the hull and up the sidewall ofthe housing (Figure 3). The sealant must extend 6mm (1/4″) higher than the combined thickness of the hull, the washer, and the hull  nut. This will ensure there is sealant in the threads to seal the hull and to hold the hull nut securely in place.
Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—A stainless steel housing must be isolated from a metal hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion. Slide the isolation bushing onto the housing. Apply additional sealant to the surfaces of the isolation bushing that will contact the hull, filling any cavities in and around the bushing.
Installing
NOTE: Disregard any arrow on the housing; it is not used.

1. From outside the hull, push the housing into the mounting hole using a twisting motion to squeeze out excess sealant (Figure 3).

2. From inside the hull, slide the washer onto the housing.
   Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—Be sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten the hull nut with the washer against the isolation bushing, as the housing will not be firmly installed. If necessary, sand the isolation bushing until the washer rests against the hull.

3. Screw the hull nut in place.
   Plastic housing—Do not clamp tightly possibly causing the housing to fracture.
   Plastic hull nut—Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
   Metal hull nut—Tighten with slip-joint pliers.
   Cored fiberglass hull—Do not over tighten, crushing the hull.
   Wood hull—Allow wood to swell before tightening the hull nut.

4. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to ensure smooth water flow under the sensor.

5. All the O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal. After the marine sealant cures, inspect the O-rings on the insert (replace if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone lubricant supplied (Figure 5). Be sure the YELLOW O-ring is in place near the top. Also lubricate the bore of the housing above the valve.

6. The insert must be fully inserted into the housing and the cap nut screwed on completely to make a watertight seal (Figure 3). Slide the insert into the housing with the arrow on the top pointing forward toward the bow.

7. Screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are engaged.
   Being sure the arrow on the top of the insert and the cable exit are pointing forward toward the bow, continue to tighten the cap nut completely. Be careful not to rotate the housing and disturb the sealant. Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.

8. Always attach the safety wire to prevent the insert from backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is screwed on incorrectly.
   Plastic housing—Attach the safety wire to one eye in the hull nut. Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire in a counterclockwise direction and thread it through one eye in the cap nut. Thread the wire through the eye a second time. Then lead the wire through the eye in the insert. Twist the wire securely to itself.
   Metal housing—Wrap one end of the safety wire tightly around the housing and twist it together with the long end. Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire straight up and through one eye in the cap nut. Thread the wire through the eye a second time. Then lead the wire counterclockwise and through the eye in the insert. Twist the wire securely to itself.

Installing in Housing WITHOUT Valve
To create a watertight seal in a housing that does NOT have a valve, the insert must have a BLACK O-ring near the top. Use Replacement O-ring Kit 20-519-01 and follow the instructions supplied.

Figure 3. Bedding and installing
Copyright © 2005 – 2020 Airmar Technology Corp

Cable Routing & Connecting
CAUTION: If your sensor came with a connector, do not remove it to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and spliced, useAirmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and follow the instructions provided. Removing the waterproof connector or cutting the cable, except when using a watertight junction box, will void the sensor’s warranty.

1. Route the cable to the instrument being careful not to tear the cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other parts of the boat. Use grommets to prevent chafing. To reduce electrical interference, separate the sensor cable from otherelectrical wiring and the engine. Coil any excess cable and secure it in place with cable ties to prevent damage.
2. Refer to the instrument owner’s manual to connect the sensor to the instrument.

Checking for Leaks
When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check around the sensor for leaks. Note that very small leaks may not be readily observed. Do not to leave the boat in the water for more than 3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small leak, there may be  considerable bilge water accumulation after 24 hours. If a leak is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing” immediately (page 3).
Installation in a Cored Fiberglass Hull
The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully. The core must be protected from water seepage, and the hull must be reinforced to prevent it from crushing under the hull nut allowing the housing to become loose.
CAUTION: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage into the core.

1. Drill a Ø 3mm or 1/8″ pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib, strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting location, drill from the outside. (If the hole is drilled in the wrong location, drill a second hole in a better location. Apply masking tape to the outside of the hull over the incorrect hole and fill it with epoxy.)

2. Using a Ø 51mm or 2″ hole saw, cut the hole from outside the hull through the outer skin only (Figure 4).

3. From inside the hull, use a Ø 60mm or 2-3/8″ hole saw to cut through the inner skin and most of the core. The core material can be very soft. Apply only light pressure to the hole saw after cutting through the inner skin to avoid accidentally cutting the outer skin.

4. Remove the plug of core material so the inside of the outer skin and the inner core of the hull are fully exposed. Sand and clean the inner skin, core, and the outer skin around the hole.

5. If you are skilled with fiberglass, saturate a layer of fiberglass cloth with a suitable resin and lay it inside the hole to seal and strengthen the core. Add layers until the hole is the correct diameter.
   Alternatively, a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter can be coated with wax and taped in place. Fill the gap between the cylinder and hull with casting epoxy. After the epoxy has set, remove the cylinder.

6. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to ensure that the marine sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.

7. Proceed with “Bedding” (page 3).

Figure 4. Preparing a cored fiberglass hull
Copyright © 2005 – 2021 Airmar Technology Corp

Operation, Maintenance & Parts

How the Valve Works
THE VALVE IS NOT A WATERTIGHT SEAL! The sensor incorporates a self-closing valve which minimizes the flow of water into the boat when the insert is removed. The curved flap valve is activated by both a spring and water pressure. Water pushes the flap valve upward to block the opening, so there is no gush of water into the boat. Always install the insert or the blanking plug secured with the cap nut and safety wire for a watertight seal.
Using the Blanking Plug
To protect the paddlewheel, use the blanking plug:

• When the boat will be kept in salt water for more than a week.
• When the boat will be removed from the water.
• When aquatic growth buildup on the paddlewheel is suspected due to inaccurate readings from the instrument.

1. All the O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal. On the blanking plug, inspect the O-rings (replace if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone lubricant supplied or petroleum jelly (Figure 5).

2. Remove the insert from the housing by removing the safety wire and unscrewing the cap nut (Figure 3). This will jack up the insert. Remove the insert with a slow pulling motion. Replace it by sliding the blanking plug into the housing.
   NOTE: In the very unlikely event that the valve breaks, replace the housing the next time the boat is hauled.

3. With the blanking plug fully inserted, screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are engaged. Continue to tighten the cap nut completely. Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.
   NOTE: The blanking plug must be fully inserted in the housing and the cap nut screwed on completely for a watertight seal.

4. Reattach the safety wire to prevent the blanking plug from backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is screwed on incorrectly.

Winterizing
After the boat has been hauled for winter storage, remove the blanking plug to let the water drain away before reinserting it. This will prevent any water from freezing around the blanking plug, possibly cracking the plastic.
NOTE: O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal.

Figure 5. Replacing the paddlewheel and O-rings
Copyright © 2005 – 2022 Airmar Technology Corp

NOTE: BOW is forward in this view

Figure 6. Replacing the paddlewheel
Copyright © 2022 Airmar Technology Corp

Servicing the Insert
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the depth transducer’s face and impede or freeze the paddlewheel’s rotation reducing performance within weeks. Clean the insert with a Scotch-Brite® scour pad and mild household detergent, being careful to avoid scratching the depth transducer. If fouling is severe, remove the paddlewheel (see step #1 below). Lightly wet sand it with fine grade wet/dry paper.
The water lubricated paddlewheel bearings have a life of up to 5 years on low- speed boats [less than 10kn (11MPH)] and 1 year on high-speed vessels. Paddlewheels can fracture and shafts can bend due to impact with water borne objects and mishandling in boat yards. O-rings must be free of abrasions and cuts to ensure a watertight seal.

1. To remove the old paddlewheel shaft, grasp the end with small diagonal wire cutters and pull (Figure 5).

2. DST800—Place the new paddlewheel in the cavity with the flat side of the blade facing the same direction as the arrow on the top of the insert (Figure 5).
   DST810—Place the new paddlewheel in the cavity with the angled edge of the blade on the outside of the insert (Figure 6).

3. Tap the new shaft into place until the end is flush with the outside wall of the insert.

4. All the O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal. Install the yellow O-ring near the top of the insert. Install a small O-ring near the paddlewheel.

5. Being sure the O-rings are intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal, place the remaining two small O-rings near the bottom of the blanking plug.

Replacement Sensor & Parts
The information needed to order a replacement Airmar sensor is printed on the cable tag. Do not remove this tag. When ordering, specify the part number, date, and frequency in kHz. For convenient reference, record this information on the top of page one.
Lost, broken, or worn parts should be replaced immediately. If you have purchased a plastic housing and have a wood hull or desire greater strength, purchase an Airmar metal housing. Obtain parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.

Gemeco| USA
Tel: 803-693-0777
Email: [email protected]
---|---
Airmar EMEA| Europe, Middle East, Africa
Tel: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.48
Email: [email protected]

DST810—CAST™ App
Download the CAST app by Airmar to view, analyze, and share sensor data and evaluate your boat’s performance. Install the CAST app on your iOS or Android device to view available NMEA data over a wireless or network connection (Figure 7).
With the CAST app you can perform depth, speed, temperature, and attitude calibrations. Smart devices with Bluetooth® connectivity can be used to view the data. Within the Cast App, you can link to and download the CAST App User Guide.
Downloading the CAST App

1. Go to the App Store or Google Play Store.
2. Search on the word Airmar.
3. Download the free CAST app

Use the Airmar CAST™ app to calibrate speed at multiple heel angles and numerous speeds for optimal performance.

Figure 7. Connecting the DST810 to the network and the CAST™ app
Copyright © 2020 – 2022 Airmar Technology Corporation

35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA
www.airmar.com 
Copyright © 2005 – 2023 Airmar Technology Corporation

References

• emea.com
• airmar.com
• airmar.com/patent.html

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