EURAMAX SOLUTIOS GPID500 Conservatory Full Height Anthracite Instruction Manual

: June 17, 2024
: EURAMAX SOLUTIOS

GPID500 Conservatory Full Height Anthracite

Product Information: Conservatory

Specifications:

Material: PVCu
Assembly: Do-it-yourself (DIY)
Tools Required: Gloves, safety glasses
Fixings Required (not supplied): Neutral Cure sealants

Introduction:

Thank you for purchasing our quality PVCu Conservatory. This
document provides step-by-step illustrated assembly instructions to
assist you with the preparation and installation of your Wickes
Conservatory. Please note that although this conservatory is
designed for DIY construction, help may be required at various
stages. The information provided in this document is for guidance
only, and Wickes cannot be held responsible for any fabrication or
product failure resulting from the interpretation of this
information.

Tools Required:

Safety gloves
Safety glasses

Fixings Required (not supplied):

It is recommended to use neutral cure sealants to achieve proper
seals. Most of the required tools, fixings, and flashings can be
purchased from your local Wickes store.

Screw Fixings Provided for the Window & Door Assembly:

The screws provided in the window and door assembly pack should
be used for specific applications mentioned in the assembly
instructions.

Delivery:

Upon receiving your conservatory delivery, carefully check all
pack contents against the product delivery note before starting any
work or arranging labor to avoid unnecessary delays or costs in the
construction process. Ensure all ordered products are complete and
free from marks or scratches on finished surfaces. Keep all
delivery notes and receipts safe. In case of any discrepancy or
damage during delivery, note it on the delivery note and contact
01226 361 639 within 72 hours. For any issues identified
post-delivery, contact us on 01226 361 639 or [email protected].
Claims resulting from poor storage, accidental damage,
misuse/adaptation, or failure to follow the supplied instructions
will not be accepted. Your statutory rights are not affected.

Storage:

If you are storing your panels, leave them on the protective
wrapping until ready for use. When stored horizontally, place the
long side of the panel on batons, ensuring it does not bow. When
stored vertically, lean the panel at a slight angle against a wall,
making full contact with the wall along its length. Do not stand
panels upright.

Conservatory Roof:

The conservatory roof will arrive in kit form, consisting of
multiple packages containing the aluminium skeleton glass roof and
PVCu cappings. Small ancillary items will be in a bag along with a
copy of the roof layout plan. Take care when handling, storing, and
erecting the conservatory roof. Unwrap packages without damaging
components using a knife. Do not expose PVCu components to freezing
conditions and immediately attempt to knock them on as they may
break. Store glass roof panels in a dry safe area until
required.

Safety:

When working with cement/concrete, always wear gloves to
protect against skin irritation.
Do not lean stepladders against the conservatory
framework.
Wear goggles and a nose and mouth mask when using a grinder to
chase out walls for flashings and when drilling into masonry.
Ensure ladders are properly supported or tied before use.

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions):

Q: Can I construct the conservatory myself?

A: Yes, the Wickes Conservatory is designed for a competent
DIYer to construct. However, help may be needed at various
stages.

Q: Where can I purchase the required tools, fixings, and

flashings?

A: Most of the tools, fixings, and flashings can be purchased
from your local Wickes store.

Q: What should I do if there is a discrepancy or damage during

delivery?

A: Please note any discrepancy or damage on the delivery note
and contact 01226 361 639 within 72 hours of delivery.

Q: What should I do if I identify any issues post-delivery or

during installation?

A: Contact us on 01226 361 639 or [email protected] to report
any issues identified post-delivery or during installation.

Q: How should I store the panels?

A: If storing panels, leave them on the protective wrapping
until ready for use. When stored horizontally, place the long side
of the panel on batons. When stored vertically, lean the panel
against a wall at a slight angle, ensuring full contact with the
wall along its length. Do not stand panels upright.

Q: How should I handle and store the conservatory roof?

A: Take care when handling, storing, and erecting the
conservatory roof. Unwrap packages without damaging components. Do
not expose PVCu components to freezing conditions. Store glass roof
panels in a dry safe area until required.

Q: What safety precautions should I take?

A: When working with cement/concrete, always wear gloves. Do not
lean stepladders against the conservatory framework. Wear goggles
and a nose and mouth mask when using a grinder or drilling into
masonry. Ensure ladders are properly supported or tied before
use.

CONSERVATORY
STEP-BY-STEP ILLUSTRATED ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing one of our quality PVCu Conservatories. This document is designed to offer you assistance in the preparation and installation of your Wickes Conservatory.
The Wickes Conservatory is designed for a competent Do-it-yourselfer to construct although help will be needed at most stages. All the information in this document is solely for guidance only. Wickes has no control over how this information is interpreted and therefore cannot be held responsible for any resulting fabrication or product failure, however caused.
Please read the full set of assembly instructions before commencing installation and only when you understand the construction method start to follow the step by step installation instructions. Follow the instructions carefully and use sealants where indicated, we recommend that you use a low- modulus, neutral curing grade of silicone. It is also recommended that where your conservatory roof abuts the house, you use a minimum of Code 3 lead chased into the brickwork. All the dimensions in this document are in millimetres. Drawings not to scale

TOOLS REQUIRED

· Small tower or working platform · 10 tread platform steps · 2-section extension ladder · Appropriate drill bits for fixings · 8mm x 150mm masonry drill bits · 4mm x 119mm HSS drill bits · 8mm x 165mm HSS drill bits · 3mm HSS drill bit · 2no. 12″ ratchet · Putty knife

· Long nosed pliers · 13mm socket and ratchet · Extension lead · SDS Electric Hammer Drill · 4″ Angle grinder with masonry discs · Good quality, long spirit level · Measuring tape · Silicone sealant gun · Trimming knife · Mallet with white rubber head

· 25mm wood chisel · 53mm diameter hole cutters · Plumb line · 4, 5 and 6mm Allen Keys · 13mm open ended spanner · 17mm open ended spanner · Roofing square · Hack saw · Cordless driver · Clamps

It is also recommended to use appropriate safety equipment when handling materials, especially glass and aluminium, i.e. gloves and safety glasses.

FIXINGS REQUIRED (not supplied)
· 8 x 100mm frame to masonry fixings · M6 x 70mm Coach screws (If fixing back to timber) · Base laying & brickwork building equipment · The roof construction requires sealing at important junctions, the use of Low Modulus,
Neutral Cure sealants is vital to achieve such seals

Most of these tools, fixings, flashings etc. can be purchased from your local Wickes store

SCREW FIXINGS PROVIDED FOR THE WINDOW & DOOR ASSEMBLY

These screws are provided in the window and door assembly pack and should be used for the following applications
1 = 4.3 x 40 PVC fixing screw. Used to fix the door restrictor to the sash. 2 = 4.3 x 40 Steel fixing screw. Used to fix the door restrictor to the outer frame. 3 = 4.8 x 50 Steel fixing screw. Used to fix the sill to the French door (dwarf wall only) & to fix the gable rafter to the raked frame. 4 = 4.8 x 60 Steel fixing screw. Used to fix the window down to the sill. 5 = 4.8 x 70 Steel fixing screw. Used to fix the window to the coupler, comer post, ring beam and raked frame. 6 = 4.8 x 80 Steel fixing screw. Used to fix the French door to the coupler, corner post & fix the French door to the ring beam or raked frame.

DELIVERY

Upon receipt of your conservatory delivery please carefully check all pack contents against the product delivery note, this should be done before any work starts or labour is arranged to avoid unnecessary delays/costs in the

construction process. Please ensure all products ordered are complete and free from marks or scratches on all

finished surfaces. Please keep all delivery notes and receipt safe. In the unlikely event that there is a discrepancy or

damage at the time of your delivery please note this on the delivery note and contact 01226 361 639 within 72 hours.

Should any other issue be identified post the delivery date e.g. on unpacking or at installation please contact us on

01226 361 639 or [email protected]. We will not accept any claims resulting from poor storage, accidental

damage, misuse/ adaptation or failure to follow the supplied instructions. Your statutory rights are not affected.

If you are storing your panels, please leave on the protective wrapping until ready for use. If stored horizontal, place the long side of the panel on batons making sure that this does not bow the panel. If stored vertical, Lean at a slight angle against a wall, ensuring that the panel is in contact with the wall along its full length – Do not stand upright.

The conservatory roof will arrive in kit form consisting of a number of packages containing the aluminium skeleton glass roof and the PVCu cappings. Small ancillary items will arrive in a bag, where you will find a copy of the roof layout plan.

Care of products on site Although the roof is robust in construction, these simple measures should be taken when handling, storing and erecting the conservatory roof. When unwrapping the packages, take care not to damage components with a knife. Do not leave PVCu components outside in freezing conditions, then immediately attempt to knock them on as they may break. Store glass roof panels in a dry safe area until they are required.

SAFETY
When working with cement / concrete it is advised to always wear gloves as cementitious products could irritate the skin. Do not lean stepladders against the conservatory framework. Wear goggles and a nose and mouth mask if using a grinder to chase out walls for the flashings, and also when drilling into masonry. Ensure ladders are supported or tied before use.
PREPARATION & FOUNDATIONS
Before any work can be started on the foundations for a conservatory, an investigation of the subsoil strata on the site will need to be made. The following are the main determining factors in finalising the type of foundation required:
· The location of drains and inspection chambers directly on or close to the site · Whether the site is on clay soil · How close trees and shrubs are to the conservatory · Whether there is a high water table · Is the site is on reclaimed land? · Beware of gas mains or electricity cabling
If you are building on a clay soil you will have to know all about the recommendations in British Standard 8004 or if the clay is very soft the phone number of a foundations engineer.
Building near trees or shrubs will impact on the design and cost of your foundations. A builder or a foundation engineer will know how to make foundation depth calculations using a foundation calculator and a list of mature tree heights.
If you are building on reclaimed land, the existing property will probably be built on substantial footings and your conservatory will also need similar reinforced foundations.
Deep strip foundations are the most common type of foundations used in conservatory construction and the cheapest to build when the ground conditions are suitable.
Trench fill foundations can be quicker to prepare than deep strip foundations enabling the construction of the conservatory to proceed quickly. Raft foundations can be a suitable alternative if trench fill of deep strip cannot be used.
Piled foundations are sometimes used for conservatories where there is no good bearing ground often associated with reclaimed land. Finally, whatever type of foundation and accompanying flooring is specified, floor insulation must be taken into consideration. Once you have investigated the type of foundations you will be using, you are ready to install your conservatory.
Note : These Preparation and Foundation notes are for guidance only. If in doubt, please contact a professional Structural Engineer or similar.
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CONSERVATORY HEIGHT
The height of the conservatory is to the roof apex and includes the 600mm dwarf wall.

Traditional

Ref

Frame Size

(External 70mm)

ET1 3150mm x 2470mm ET2 3760mm x 2470mm ET3 4370mm x 3080mm

Frame Size (Internal 70mm)

Wall Plate Height From Top Of uPVC Window Frames

Internal Ridge Height

3010mm x 2400mm 3620mm x 2400mm 4230mm x 3010mm

695mm 695mm 802mm

2588mm 2588mm 2696mm

External Ridge Height

External Brick Size Reference

Roof Weight (KG)

Glass Weight (KG)

Total Weight (KG)

2779mm 2779mm 2887mm

3210mm x 2500mm 3820mm x 2500mm 4430mm x 3110mm

68 154 222 79 184 263 125 267 392

Edwardian

Ref

Frame Size

(External 70mm)

EE1 3150mm x 2470mm EE2 3150mm x 3080mm EE3 3150mm x 3690mm

Frame Size (Internal 70mm)

External Ridge Height From Top Of uPVC Window Frames

Internal Ridge Height

3010mm x 2400mm 3010mm x 3010mm 3010mm x 3620mm

785mm 785mm 785mm

2740mm 2740mm 2740mm

External Ridge Height

External Brick Size Reference

Roof Weight (KG)

Glass Weight (KG)

Total Weight (KG)

2872mm 2872mm 2872mm

3210mm x 2500mm 3210mm x 3110mm 3210mm x 3720mm

98 168 266 114 209 323 131 250 381

DWARF WALL BASE PREPARATION
Since ground conditions vary enormously throughout the country, it is impossible to state precisely what type and depth of footings and foundations will be necessary to support a conservatory in your area. It is essential to ensure that the foundations are adequate to withstand the loading and are of a sufficient quality to remain stable regardless of the condition of the subsoil. A conservatory is effectively part of the house and it must be totally secure.
The following is for guidance purposes only and is based on typical foundation detail known as a Trenchfill type as shown in steps 3 & 4.
Note : The concrete depth of 450mm minimum can only be used as a guide.
A good indication of the required depth would be to match your existing house footings. It is recommended that you obtain professional advice on the necessary depth of the trenchfill concrete suitable for your particular area.
The overall width of the trench must be no less than 300mm for a single skin wall or 450mm for a cavity wall with a 50mm insulation gap. Note : The trench extends in front of the perimeter wall by at least one brick width and finishes below ground level.
The built up brick wall is to be located centrally on top of the trench footings. Start by marking out the external face of the outer skin of brickwork using plumb lines, which must be to the dimensions given in step 7. Either side of these plumb lines mark out the trench width and dig out the footings to the required depth. Set the height level of your concrete footings by measuring down the number of brick courses from the house DPC (damp proof course) to the intended top of your footings, remember that the top of the footings all around the perimeter must finish a minimum of one brick course, 75mm, below ground level.
With the concrete poured and left to set, re-mark out the plumb lines for the external face of the brickwork to the dimensions in step 7. Dig out the oversite to a depth which allows for the hardcore, sand and concrete base, finishing at DPC level as indicated in steps 3 & 4. If you are intending to insulate your floor, increase the depth of the oversite dig to accommodate 50mm of polystyrene slabs which is laid between the DPM (damp proof membrane) and the concrete slab.

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Note : It is very important that the house wall against which any conservatory is to be built must be flat and smooth. If walls are roughcase or pebbledashed then it may be necessary to chop away the surface to accommodate the panels at the sides and the roof assembly end rafters. In addition, the walls must be vertical. If they have a tendency to lean outwards as they go up, your conservatory panels will, in theory, only touch the wall at the top, leaving a gap at the bottom. Use a plumb bob and line to check that the wall is vertical. If it is as in step 5 the conservatory base dimensions must be measured from the point where the plumb bob rests. The brick base will be slightly increased in size to make up the difference. When the sills are secured, the wall mullion will be packed off the house wall so that it is secured in the vertical position. If the house wall leans inwards, then the brick base will be built exactly to the dimensions in step 7 but the conservatory components being fitted to the house wall will all have to be packed off the house wall by the required amount to ensure all components are fitted vertical and plumb.
CONSERVATORY DIMENSIONS
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To assist with the sizing of your conservatory, below is the width and projection dimension:
4
Ensure all measurements are checked twice as per instructions

BRICKWORK DRAWINGS
In the Conservatory portfolio there are 2 styles of Wickes Conservatories, we have put together brickwork drawings of each style and size to assist you in planning/assembling your conservatory. For a copy of your particular size of conservatory plan please contact: [email protected] or 01226 361 639
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Note : Due to the modular nature of your conservatory, the French door can be located in any position within the base (except for an external corner). The necessary opening should therefore, be allowed for when construction begins. NB. PLEASE NOTE ALL EXTERNAL BRICKWORK DIMENSIONS ARE BASED ON A STANDARD 102mm WIDE BRICK. IF USING A LARGER BRICK YOU MUST ADJUST YOUR BRICKWORK DIMENSIONS ACCORDINGLY When you have checked and double checked that your plumb lines are as in step 7, correctly positioned with any adjustments for outward leaning house walls and the layout is square to the house wall, you can begin laying the perimeter walling. This must be built up to at least 150mm above ground level. Whilst building constantly check that the walling is perfectly level and vertical and the overall base dimensions are maintained, to within a tolerance of plus / minus 5mm. Note : If using standard bricks with frogs the last/top course should be laid upside down to hide the frog. If your concrete slab will cover any air bricks in the existing house wall below DPC level, it is essential that provision is made for ventilation through the airbricks to continue. They must not simply be blocked off. You will need to incorporate airbricks in the conservatory perimeter wall and link between the house and new conservatory airbricks with ducting.

The ducting can be plastic waste pipe taped together side by side and secured to the existing and new airbricks being subsequently covered by the concrete slab – see step 9. In some situations, for example where levels make the use of ducting impractical, it may be necessary to leave existing airbricks open allowing air intake from the conservatory instead of outside.
Dwarf Wall Models only Once the external wall is built up to DPC level, the inner skin of the cavity wall can be built up to the same level. Refer to steps 7 & 10 and mark the position of your door opening on the external skin of the brickwork. step 12 shows how the inner skin of the cavity wall is built with a section missing where the doors are to be located above. The cavity is closed at these locations.
Spread a 50mm thickness of sand on top of well compacted hardcore. The damp proof membrane is laid on top of this sand so that the sheet overlaps the wall on all sides and reaches up the back (house wall) to just above DPC level. step 11. With a cavity wall construction, the sheet will overlap the inner wall, except at the door opening when it will overlap the outer wall.
Infill with concrete to a minimum depth of 100mm, to finish level with the top of the perimeter wall. With a cavity wall, at the door opening the concrete is laid up to the outer skin. Leave the concrete to dry out thoroughly before commencing with the conservatory construction. Lay a DPC into your first mortar course and build up the dwarf wall as in steps 3, 4 & 11. A separate DPC is used on both skins of the cavity wall and must tie into the house DPC.
Note : The use of a vertical DPC located to each side of the door opening where the cavities are closed. Using brick wall ties build up the courses of bricks to finish precisely 600mm, above the DPC level.

Use wall starters to tie the

brickwork into the existing house

wall. Insert cavity wall batts into

the cavity. If you have any doubt

about your bricklaying skills you

should call in a skilled bricklayer.

Refer to step 7 to ensure the external brick dimensions are maintained and that the brick openings for the doors are made to the correct size and located in the correct position.

Allow your brickwork to set completely before continuing with the conservatory construction.

Note : Any additional trims to cover large gaps are not included in the conservatory and should be purchased separately.

10 11 12

FRAME ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION
How you start to assemble your conservatory depends on how you have decided to lay out your dwarf wall and foundations. The position of the set of French doors will help.
It’s recommended that any screw fitted through a horizontal profile member should have an adequate amount of silicone sealant applied to the screw head. This will ensure there is a watertight seal and maintain the drainage integrity of the profiles.
FLASHINGS
At some point during the installation of your conservatory, you must consider when you are going to fit the flashing. The chasing out of the mortar joint either by hand or with an angle grinder will create some dust and debris.
What you must also consider is how you are going to fold the flashing over the wall plate connections and roof sections. If you know exactly where your roof will be positioned you can prepare the mortar joints first. We recommend that the mortar joint preparation is done before you fit the roof panels to give you access to the wall through the roof beams and rafters.
If you have already installed the wall plates and rafters, we strongly advise that all the roof sections are carefully covered with protective material before any chasing out is done, to prevent dust and debris getting into the parts which may cause scratching or damage. In the case of the traditional roof, your should fit the roof panels one at a time and fold the flashing down and apply the new pointing or mastic seal, as you work along or across you conservatory by working through the next available roof panel space, finally folding the flashing down at the outside edge.
If at any time you do have to work on the roof of your conservatory we strongly advise the use of scaffold towers and wide boards to support your weight. We cannot be held responsible for damage to your roof caused by standing on it.
STEP 1 – LAYING OUT THE SILL
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The conservatory sill arrives in individual segments, the sills are supplied cut in modular sizes with sill connectors to form the corners. Ensure the thermal sill reinforcement is inserted into each sill section and positioned centrally, prior to the next stage. The corners will require sealing and jointing. Each sill should arrive mitred to the required angle with the specific sill corner joint, this joint must receive a complete silicone seal along its length. Ease back protective tape at corners to assist jointing.
The conservatory sill will act as a template for the conservatory frames and roof and must therefore be laid out onto the base accurately. The ends of the sill will be supplied over-size to take up any discrepancies on the base, you will need to cut these to size along with the sill section for the French doors (dwarf wall only). Please note that the internal edge of the sill should be level with the internal edge of the outside brick. It is vitally important that the perimeter setting out sizes for the sill match the sizes on the roof plan exactly (roof plan depends on configuration and design, see specific roof plan in the box which comes with fittings), cross checking the diagonal measurements will help determine the positions of the sill corners. Depending on where you are positioning the French doors (left, right or at the front) will determine which section of sill you will need to cut for the French door sill. From the mitred end(s), measure from the inside of the face brickwork to determine the correct distance to the door opening position and cut out the sill section to the width of the French doors.
Fix the sill into position approximately 150mm from each end and subsequent 600mm centres using suitable fixings for the brickwork. It’s recommended to pilot each hole and use a minimum length fixing of 60mm (not supplied)
14

STEP 2 – FIXING THE SILL TO THE DOOR FRAME

ON DWARF WALL MODELS ONLY

IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT YOU COULD FIX EITHER A FRENCH DOOR OR WINDOW FRAME FIRST, DEPENDING ON YOUR LAYOUT THESE WOULD BE FIXED PLUMB TO THE WALL. THE FRENCH DOOR ILLUSTRATION IS FOR GUIDANCE PURPOSES ONLY.
All French doors are designed to open outwards and must be assembled accordingly.
Lift off both door sashes and store them safely before commencing any work to make it easier for handling. The French door outer frame must be fitted with a sill to ensure correct drainage. Apply a bead of a suitable grade of silicone sealant along the inner raised edges on the bottom rail of the frame and position the sill onto the frame. Measure a distance of approximately 50mm from each end of the sill and mark with a pencil; mark a further two positions evenly spaced between the two outer marks. Drill through the sill and the frame with a 3 mm drill at the marked positions and fix with the four 4.3 x 40mm screws supplied. Coat the ends of the sill with silicone sealant and push the end caps into position. (If hinge pins are missing check in packaging and place in position.)
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STEP 3 – PREPARING THE WINDOW PANELS

Select the correct frame for each position and check that the widths amount to the correct perimeter size of the conservatory sill, you will need to take into account the thickness of the window coupling profiles. Please be aware that PVCu window frames have manufacturing tolerances of +/- 4mm.

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Glass

To avoid damage to the glass when drilling through the frame, carefully remove the vertical glazing beads from around the panel by pulling the attached tabs, the top and bottom beads will be taped to the glass unit. Lift out the glass. Take care not to lose the glazing packers under the glass, as these will have to be replaced during glazing. Handle the glass with extreme care, avoiding any knocks to the unprotected edges. Remove all glazing at once and use cardboard packaging to protect when stacking. There will also be pads on the glazing to protect when stacking – please do not remove these pads until the windows are re-glazed.

Board Tape

The opening sash does not need to be de-glazed. To open the vent, attach handle loosely to the opening window. Prior to connecting frames, ensure that the channels for the removable beads are on the inside of the conservatory and that the drainage slots are at the bottom.

STEP 4 – LEVELLING THE SILL
A constant level must be achieved around the perimeter of the conservatory sill, packing pieces between the top of the wall and the underside of the sill may be needed to achieve this constant level. A long spirit level placed on top of the sil will determine the highest point around the frame perimeter, this will be your starting level. Work away from this starting level and pack- up beneath the sill as required. Note: The sill should float on the conservatory wall, therefore it is advised that once the conservatory is complete, point-up any gaps between the underside of the sill and the wall with mortar to give the sill a constant bed. Ensure the window frame against the house wall is plumb on all sides a Seal over all exposed screw heads with silicone sealant.

STEP 5 – FITTING THE DOOR / WINDOW FRAMES

Before fitting any frames, ensure the joint between the frame and coupler

locates fully across the full length of the joint. If the joint is not flush and tight

between the frame and coupler, clean out any obstruction from the frame

carefully using a sharp chisel until the coupler is allowed to sit correctly

FITTING THE FRENCH DOOR FIRST
If you have decided to put your French doors next to the house wall, the door outer frame will be the first item to be installed. Run a continuous silicone sealant line along the back edge of the sill (see step 15). Make sure the sill is correctly fitted to the base of the outer frame, then line the frame up with the opening and ensure that it is plumb and square to the wall. Packers may be required to ensure the frame is plumb.

Drill pilot holes first as directed by the chosen

fixing. Fix the door to the wall using at least 4

frame fixing bolts equally spaced up the door

frame against the wall and use at least 2 fixings

suitable for the wall construction to attach the

frame to the dwarf wall. DO NOT FIT THE

DOORS YET.

Apply a silicone seal between the frame and coupler as shown. Locate a length of coupler down onto the sill and up to the side of the door outer frame and clamp it tightly into position.

Using a 3mm bit, drill pilot holes through the door

frame and into the coupler approximately 150mm

from each end. Drill 3 additional pilot holes, 1

centrally and then additional holes between the

top/bottom and central holes (the additional holes

between the top/bottom and central holes are not

required on the dwarf wall models) Using the 4.8 x

80mm screws provided, fix through the door frame

and into the coupler taking care not to overtighten

the screws and ensuring the coupler remains tight

to the outer frame. Drill additional pilot holes

across the bottom of the door outer frame, approx

150mm from each end and either side of the

keeps on the French door. Fix the French door

frame down through the pilot holes next to the

keeps and into the brickwork using suitable fixings

Now attach the window frame to the door frame.

Offer the first window up the coupling bar

(applying a silicone seal as shown) and ensure

it fits tightly against it, clamp the 2 frames

together, and drill taking care to miss the 3

screws you have just fitted the coupling bar with.

Using a 3mm bit, drill pilot holes through the

window frame and into the coupler

approximately 150mm from each end. Drill 3

additional pilot holes, 1 centrally and then

additional holes between the top/bottom and

central holes (the additional holes between the

top/bottom and central holes are not required on

the dwarf wall models)

Using the 4.8 x 70mm screws provided, fix through the window frame and into the coupler taking care not to overtighten the screws and ensuring the coupler remains tight to the outer frame. Continue to assemble (see connecting the frames section for further details) the frames around the conservatory in the same way except using the corner posts in the correct place instead of a coupling bar. Finally fixing the last frame to the opposite wall with the frame fixings.

FITTING THE WINDOW FIRST

If you have decided to fit a window against the house wall, decide which style of window you want, Fixed or opener, (think about the position of the fall pipe, a window won’t open against a fall pipe) offer this up the wall and make sure the frame is plumb and square and it is sat correctly on the sill (run a continuous silicone sealant line along the back edge of the sill – see step 15 – and position the back edge of the window frame up to the upstand on the sill).

Fix this frame directly to the wall approximately 150mm from each end and at least an additional 2 fixing equally spaced up the frame. (in the case of an opener 2 in the bottom approximately 150mm from each end and 1 in the top opening aperture part at least). Once this has been correctly fitted then you can assemble the rest of the frames as previously described, again taking care when it comes to the door frame, using at least 2 frame fixings into the dwarf wall section.

Using a 3mm bit, drill pilot holes through the

window frame and into the coupler

approximately 150mm from each end Drill 3

additional pilot holes, 1 centrally and then

additional holes between the top/bottom and

central holes (the additional holes between the

top/bottom and central holes are not required

on the dwarf wall models).

Using the 4.8 x 70mm screws provided, fix through the window frame and into the coupler taking care not to overtighten the screws and ensuring the coupler remains tight to the outer frame. Secure the frame of the window down to the sill using 4.8 x 60mm screws x 2 into 3mm drilled pilot holes 150mm in from each end (ensure screws are not over tightened). Seal over all exposed screw heads with silicone sealant. The position of these screws is vital so as not to interfere with the re-glazing of the windows.
Continue to assemble your conservatory using the appropriate corner posts where required. Finally fixing the last frame to the opposite wall with the frame fixings. You may have to fit packers in any gaps there to stop the window frames from distorting. Ensure the window frame against the house wall is plumb on all sides. Keep all the cover trims safe, they will be fitted later (see step 107).

STEP 6 – CONNECTING THE FRAMES TOGETHER
Continue connecting the frames together using the inline and corner couplings until the perimeter is complete, the corner posts should relate to the corners on the sill. Ensure the lip is to the outside.
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STEP 7 – READY FOR THE ROOF?
The frames should now be ready to accept the roof.
Please remember that prior to assembling the roof, the frames must be:
1. Dimensionally correct around the perimeter 2. Dimensionally correct in width and depth 3. Level & vertical/plumb, leaning neither into or out of the conservatory Hanging the French doors and fitting the accessories continued in steps 95-102

SCREW FIXINGS PROVIDED TO ASSEMBLE THE ROOF

These screws are provided in the roof assembly pack and should be used for the following applications

1 = 4.8x16LG self-drilling screw. Used to fix the 90° eaves

beam cleats and stiffeners to the corner mitres of the eaves

beams (Edwardian roof only)

2 = CRS8625S Single Variable Support Stud. Used to fix the hips to the slimline ridge end spider casting (2 per hip) & bottom of the gable rafter (Lean To/Traditional & Edwardian roofs).

3 = CRS8628S Glazing Stop Screw. Used to fix the nylon glazing stop and rafter end cap onto the end of each rafter and hip (2 per rafter / hip). (Lean To/Traditional & Edwardian roofs).

4 = CRS8627W Poly top screw. Used to fix the slimline ridge flashing trim to the actual ridge profile (Edwardian roof only).

LEAN TO/TRADITIONAL ROOF ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

LEAN TO/TRADITIONAL ROOF

LAYOUT PLAN

Each length of material should be numbered to correspond with its position on the roof plan. An example of this is an ring beam assembly numbered BM2 on the roof plan.

STEP 1 – RING BEAMS
Before the roof installation commences, make sure the conservatory footprint dimensions are correct, with the frames level and plumb. The internal sizes at the head of the frames should correspond with those on the supplied roof plan.
RING BEAMS
Position the ring beam centrally across the frames on the front of the conservatory as shown above, ensuring the nib is located against the frame.
Clamp the ring beam to the frame across it’s length and drill 2 x 3mm pilot holes equally spaced through the top of each window frame into the ring beam (4 x pilot holes on the French doors if required).
Fix up through each window frame into the ring beam using 4.8 x 70mm screws, taking care not to overtighten and ensuring the ring beam sits tight to the window (4.8 x 80mm screws on the French doors).
We recommend that silicone is used to form a seal between the head of the frame and the bottom of the eaves beam. Note: do not seal the front of the eaves beam as this will restrict the fitting of the gutter under trim

26
Ring Beam

Traditional Conservatory screw fixing upwards

Ring beam screw fixed at 450mm max centres and max 150mm in from each end

STEP 2 FITTING THE RAKE FRAMES

Locate the 10mm coupler across the top of the frames

down one side of the conservatory, if the joint is not flush

and tight between the frames and coupler, clean out any

obstruction from the frame carefully using a sharp chisel

until the joint is allowed to sit correctly, applying a silicone

seal as shown.

Locate the correct handed raked frame (beads to the inside and drainage to the outside) onto the coupler ensuring it’s tight upto the ring beam at the front.

Clamp the rake frame, coupler and frames below together, then drill 2 x 3mm pilot holes equally spaced through the top of each window frame into the coupler and rake frame (4 x pilot holes on the French doors if required). Drill 2 x 3mm pilot holes per aperture where possible down through the rake frame into the coupler and frames below.

Fix up and down through each pilot hole into the coupler and additional frame using 4.8 x 70mm screws, taking care not to overtighten and ensuring the assembly sits tight together (4.8 x 80mm screws on the French doors)

Where the rake frame meets the house wall, you may have to fit packers in any gaps there to stop the frames from distorting. Ensure the rake frame against the house wall is plumb on all sides and fix with 2 suitable fixings.

Repeat this process for the other rake frame on the opposite side of the conservatory

STEP 3 FIT THE WALL PLATE

Slide or roll the variable support out of the wall plate assembly and

remove the studs from each end, ensuring there are the equivalent

number of double studs to rafters remaining, there are no studs required

for the gable rafters.

Support the wall plate in position on top of the raked frames and ensure it’s sat in between each side of the conservatory. The wall plate should be notched at each end to sit onto and in-between the raked frames.

Check the wall plate is sat level across its length, use packing if required

Approximately 150mm from each end and at subsequent 200mm centres, drill through the wall plate into the host wall and then fix with suitable fixings for the construction

Hook the variable support into the wall plate and ridge glazing trims centrally into place

STEP 4 GABLE RAFTERS & RAFTERS

The gable rafters are handed, so make sure you select the

correct gable rafter for each side

CRS8504A

Left Hand

CRS8011

Position the gable rafter so that it’s flush to the edge of the raked frame

Gable rafter to butt upto variable support and sit on window frames

Right Hand
31

Slide enough studs into the ring beam variable support for all of the rafters. There are no support studs at the top for the gable rafter and there is only one support stud at the bottom on the ring beam.
Using the CRS8504A & CRS8011 assembled gable rafter sections only, move the studs along the ring beam to line up with the pre-drilled holes in the bottom of the gable rafter and sit the gable rafter onto the studs. Hand tighten each stud to allow for adjustment at this stage.
32
Clamp the gable rafter to the raked frame and drill 3mm pilot holes (angle the drill if required to drill the holes) down through the gable rafter into the raked frame, 150mm from each end and at subsequent 200mm centres.
Fix down through each pilot hole into the gable rafter and raked frame using 4.8 x 50mm screws, taking care not to overtighten and ensuring the assembly sits tight together

The remaining rafters go on next, sit each rafter onto the studs at the pre- defined marks/positions on the wall plate and the ring beam. Once all rafters have been fitted, check all openings are correct between the rafters to fit the glass panels. Adjust where necessary and fully tighten ALL studs at this stage.
Fit a Glazing Stop and End Cap (Gable Rafter) to each Glazing Bar using CRS8628 screws.
To Glaze, slide the Glazing panel on to the Rafters and slide into the Wall Plate Glazing Trim. Remove the protective tape from the Ring Beam Seal, slide back the Glazing panel to the Glazing Stop and seat onto the Seal.
The Ring Beam End Cap can now be fitted. To fit the End Cap, first cut down the capping to suit the 10° pitch.
Fit the Gable End Trim onto the Gable Rafters.
Position the Gable End Cap into its correct position.

Fit the Lean to Seal

onto the Lean To

Variable Support and

Glazing Trim as shown.

Then fit the Lean to Top

Cap and carry out

the Lead Flashing onto

it. The Lean to Bottom

Cap can also be fitted

at this point.

Fit the Glazing End Trim to

the Glazing. Seal the End

Trim using a suitable silicone

sealant.

Once the Glazing is in

position, snap on the

Glazing Bar Top Caps

ensuring they are

snapped into the

correct position and

that they are butted up

to the wall plate Glazing

Trim. Fold up and clip

Glazing Bar End Caps

into position.

Apply a bead of neutral cure

silicone to the areas of the

End Cap that locate onto the

Ring Beam. Then place into

position.

Offer the half ridge gable end cap

upto the wall plate top cap and

scirbe/cut the legs as required to

make it sit flush into position

Apply a bead of neutral cure silicone seal to the areas of the Half Ridge Gable End Cap that will sit on the Wall Plate Top Cap

FALLPIPE FITMENT AND BRACKET

Decide where the position of the fall pipe is going to be on the conservatory. Offer up the gutter and mark the drill position centrally in the channel

Using a 53mm diameter hole cutter, cut through the gutter at the marked position

Apply silicone sealant to the top and bottom surfaces around the hole that you have just cut into the guttering.
Screw the gutter pipe adaptor into position through the guttering, ensuring a good tight fitting silicone joint.

Assemble the remaining fallpipe components

Offset Bend

together applying silicone sealant and ensuring

a good tight fit to each joint.

The 2 offest bends go together first, then the main fallpipe (check for fit before assembling, this may need cutting to size) and lastly the downpipe shoe.

Once all the joints have cured, apply silicone sealant to the gutter pipe adaptor and fit the main fallpipe assembly, ensuring a good tight fitting silicone joint (you may need to support the fallpipe assembly until the silicone seal has cured.

Fallpipe Downpipe Shoe

Fit 4 x downpipe clips equally spaced down the main fallpipe assembly as shown, using suitable fixings for either the brickwork or PVC frames

GUTTERING INSTALLATION

Gutter Brackets must be fitted at a maximum of 600mm centres and no more than 200mm from each corner. The Gutter Brackets are located in the Ring Beam External Trim and are twisted into position as shown.

Left hand and right hand guttering end caps should be pushed onto the each end of the guttering as far on as they will go

To clip the Guttering into position, clip the front part of the Gutter Bracket into the Gutter section.

Rotate the rear section of the Gutter up and clip into position.

YOUR ROOF SHOULD NOW BE FITTED AND SECURE

EDWARDIAN ROOF ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

EDWARDIAN ROOF LAYOUT

PLAN

The roof layout plan is essential as it depicts the size of the roof and the position of the main roof components. Thoroughly check that the roof fits the window frame layout and that all the roof components are present.
Each length of material should be numbered to correspond with its position on the roof plan. An example of this is an ring beam assembly numbered BM2 on the roof plan.

STEP 1 – RING BEAMS
Before the roof installation commences, make sure the conservatory footprint dimensions are correct, with the frames level and plumb. The internal sizes at the head of the frames should correspond with those on the supplied roof plan.
Join remaining sections of Ring Beam together using both the Pressed and Flat Steel Cleats.
RING BEAMS
Position the ring beam centrally across the frames on the front and sides of the conservatory as shown below, ensuring the nib is located against the frame.
Clamp the ring beam to the frame across it’s length and drill 2 x 3mm pilot holes equally spaced through the top of each window frame into the ring beam (4 x pilot holes on the French doors if required).
Fix up through each window frame into the ring beam using 4.8 x 70mm screws, taking care not to overtighten and ensuring the ring beam sits tight to the window (4.8 x 80mm screws on the French doors).
We recommend that silicone is used to form a seal between the head of the frame and the bottom of the eaves beam. Note: do not seal the front of the eaves beam as this will restrict the fitting of the gutter under trim

Edwardian Conservatory screw fixing upwards

Ring beam screw fixed at 450mm max centres and max 150mm in from each end

GABLE RAFTERS, HIPS, RAFTERS & RIDGE

The gable rafters are handed, so make sure you select the correct gable rafter for each side
CRS8504A

Hook into position on the Ring Beam the Ring Beam Variable

Support. Slide the appropriate number of double studs (for the

rafter) and Single Studs (for the Hips and Gable Rafter) down the

Ring Beam Variable Support. NOTE: The studs must be fitted to

EACH individual Ring Beam Variable Support as they are fitted.

Hand tighten each stud to allow for adjustment at this stage.

Left Hand

CRS8011

Right Hand

Whilst at floor level, ensure

Ridge

Raise the assembled Ridge up

the Ridge Variable Support

Variable

to its correct height and

and the Ridge Glazing Trim

Support

temporarily support. Loosely fit

has been positioned within

the Gable Rafters complete with

the Ridge, and that the

Wall Rafter Gutter to the Ridge

Nylon Threaded Bar has

and Ring Beam.

been fitted to the Spider

Bracket. Slide the

appropriate number of

Double studs down the Ridge Variable Support for Rafter and Single studs for

Ridge Glazing Trim

Gable Rafter.

Fix the Hips complete with

Fix the Gable Rafters to the

Spider Bar Moulding on to the

Wall using appropriate fixings,

Spider Bar. Fix the Hips onto

minimum 3 Places per Rafter.

the Ring Beam using Single

Studs. Align the centre line of

the Hips with the center of the

Spider Rafters stud hole. Once

aligned, tighten the Grub

Screws.

Adjust Jack Rafter fixing bolt so the

glazing lines of bottom caps are level.

Seal where the Jack Rafter meets the Hip.

Slide the Jack Rafter Bar into the Jack Rafter as shown. DO NOT fix into place at this stage.

Place the Jack Rafter into position, locating the Jack Rafter Bar onto the Jack Rafter Fixing and onto the Double Studs at the Ring Beam End. Tighten all nuts.

Secure the Jack Rafter Bar in position as shown.

All glazing can now be carried out. When fitting the Top Caps, ensure that the Joint between the Hip Top Cap and the Jack Rafter Top Cap is sound.

Apply suitable all weather sealant around joint between the hip top cap and jack rafter top cap

The remaining rafters go on next, sit each rafter onto the studs at the pre- defined marks/positions on the ridge and the ring beam. Once all rafters have been fitted, check all openings are correct between the rafters to fit the glass panels. Adjust where necessary and fully tighten ALL studs at this stage.
Carry out the Lead Flashing. The method and style of this is left to the installer although the flashing should finish inside the Wall Rafter Gutter. DO NOT flash around the Ridge at this point.
Ensure lead finishes inside the Wall Rafter Gutter
Fit the Glazing End Trim to the Glazing. Seal the End Trim using a suitable silicone sealant.

Cut to length and fit the

Eaves Beam Seal into the

Ring Beam Variable

Support. DO NOT remove

protective tape at this time.

(This may have been

performed by your

supplier).

Mitred Eaves Beam Seal

Fit a Glazing Stop and End

Cap (Gable Rafter) to each

Glazing Bar using

CRS8628 screws.

The order of Glazing should

be done in a specific way.

Panels that sit on a Hip

should be done first. So in

the example shown, glaze

panels 1 to 8

before glazing any others.

To Glaze, slide the Glazing panel

Once the Glazing is in

on to the Rafters and slide into the

position, snap on the

ridge Glazing Trim. Remove the

Glazing Bar Top Caps

protective tape from the Ring Beam Seal, slide back the Glazing panel to the Glazing Stop and seat onto the Seal. Peel back tape film 1-2 inches and fold to the inside of conservatory. Position glazing ensuring it is sealed down on

ensuring they are snapped into the correct position and that they are butted up to the ridge end sealing assembly Glazing Trim. Fold up and clip Glazing Bar End Caps into position.

glazing stops. Peel away tape film

completely and pat glazing down

from the outside.

76
Secure sealing assembly by tightening this

77
Apply Stelmax gap filler along this area of ridge capping

In certain cases the Top Cap may need 78 to be scribed to suit the roof pitch .
Apply Stelmax gap filler along this area of ridge capping

Fit the Ridge End Sealing Assembly.

Polytop screws fitted here
Before fitting the Ridge Top Cap, apply a continuous bead of Stelmax gap filler to all areas of the Ridge Flashing Trim where the Top Cap will locate, then slide the Flashing Trim onto the pre cut Ridge Top Cap.

Polytop screws to be fixed here
Apply a continuous bead of Stelmax gap filler to the opposite end of the Ridge Top Cap where the Ridge End Top Cap will fit and slide the Ridge End Top Cap onto the pre cut Ridge Top Cap and fix using Poly Top Screws.

Fit the assembled Ridge Top

Complete the Lead Flashing

Cap onto the Ridge. Before

around the Ridge Flashing

positioning, apply a mastic/

Trim.

silicone seal to the areas of the

Ridge Flashing Trim that butt up

to the wall. Now secure the Top

Cap into position.

Glaze the remaining panels in the order shown, ensuring that the glazing is inserted into the Ridge Glazing Trim and is seated on the Eaves Beam Seal. Fit the Glazing Bar Top Caps ensuring they are in the correct position and butt up to the Ridge Glazing Trim.

Screw Decorative Boss onto nylon treaded bar

In certain cases 82 the End Cap may need to be scribed to suit the roof pitch

Fit the Ridge Bottom Cap and the Ridge Radius End Bottom Cap.

Fit the Internal Ring Beam Trims to the Ring Beam.

Apply glue to ONE inside face of the Ring Beam Joint Trim.

Fit the Trim to the Joint between the two Ring Beam Internal Trims. Repeat this process for all other Joints.

To fit the tie wire, please follow the instructions provided within the packaging for this item

FALLPIPE FITMENT AND BRACKET

Decide where the position of the fall pipe is going to be on the conservatory. Offer up the gutter and mark the drill position centrally in the channel

Using a 53mm diameter hole cutter, cut through the gutter at the marked position

Assemble the remaining fallpipe components

Offset Bend

together applying silicone sealant and ensuring

a good tight fit to each joint.

The 2 offset bends go together first, then the main fallpipe (check for fit before assembling, this may need cutting to size) and lastly the downpipe shoe.

Fallpipe Downpipe Shoe

Fit 4 x downpipe clips equally spaced down the main fallpipe assembly as shown, using suitable fixings for either the brickwork or PVC frames

GUTTERING INSTALLATION

Assemble the 3 pieces of guttering together using the 90 degree angles, ensuring all joints are tight and fully located

To clip the Guttering into position, clip the front part of the Gutter Bracket into the Gutter section.

Rotate the rear section of the Gutter up and clip into position.

YOUR ROOF SHOULD NOW BE FITTED AND SECURE

INSTALLING HANDLE SETS

It is recommended that the door furniture is fitted before lifting the doors into position.
Insert the key in the lock cylinder (F) and turn it so that the lever lines up with the barrel, then locate through lock aperture in the door frame. This is already fitted in place on the secondary door. Fix in place with the M5 x 35mm countersunk head screw (A) provided.
Insert the square profile lock operating bar (D) into the upper square hole in the lock.
Position the handles (C, E) onto the door frame and secure to the door with the screws (B) provided.
Test the lock & shoot bolt operation while the door is open.

INSIDE B

CD A

INSTALLING THE SECONDARY DOOR
Lift the secondary door into position and lower it onto the hinge pins. Check that the door closes squarely to the frame and that the lock & shoot bolts on the flying mullion engage in the plates at the top and bottom of the frame.
Adjust the hinges to ensure that the door is level with the outer frame when closed and that it operates correctly (see steps 98 & 99).

OUTSIDE

FITTING THE LOCKING DOOR
97
Lift the locking door into position and lower it onto the hinge pins.
Check that the door closes squarely to the frame and that the lock & shoot bolts operates correctly.
Do not force the doors to close together, but carefully adjust the hinges as in steps 98 & 99.

DOOR ALIGNMENT & HINGE ADJUSTMENT

Using a 4mm allen key, the top stud can be rotated

clockwise or anti-clockwise to change the compression

between the sash and outer frame. Ensure compression is

evenly distributed across all hinges.

Using a 5mm allen key, the bottom stud can be rotated clockwise or anti- clockwise to change the height of the sash on the outer frame. Ensure the weight of the sash is evenly distributed across all hinges.

Pushing the hinge cover cap in the centre where it sits on the frame

mount, will slide open the hinge cover cap. Using a 5mm allen key, the end stud can be rotated clockwise or anti-clockwise to change the lateral position between the sash and outer frame. Loosen the screws on the frame plate before making any adjustment to allow it to slide. Ensure an even distribution across all hinges and re tighten the screws on the frame plate after adjustment.

SECURE HINGE COVER PLATE

Ensuring Flag Cover is flat down on profile. Push

Flag Cover back towards Frame Mount until it clicks

into place this will lock the hinge onto the hinge pin.

Open the Sash to expose Flag Cover Retention Screws on underside. Fully tighten screws turning clockwise using cross head screwdriver. Replace Sash and fit Cover Cap as shown

“CLICK”

DOOR LOCK TESTING

Test the door lock for correct operation.
To lock the door, push the handle upwards when the door is closed. This engages the hook bolts. Turn the key towards the secondary door to engage the hook bolt.
To unlock the door from the inside, turn the key away from the secondary door and push the handle downwards to disengage the hook bolts.

1
2
TO LOCK INSIDE and OUTSIDE

FITTING THE FRENCH DOOR RESTRICTOR

Fit these one at a time to each door. Open the French doors to about 90°. Open the restrictor as show in the sketch (opposite way for the other door). Make sure the black nylon slider is pushed up to the stop in the bracket. Place the centre of the small bracket 150mm approx. in front of the edge of the door. This is fitted into the groove on the top of the door. Fix with 2 x 40mm screws supplied.
Then position the base arm into the front channel of the outer frame. Make sure the door is at 90° front channel of the outer frame. Ensure the nylon stop is tight against the end of the base arm. Fix the base using 2 x 40mm screws. Check the operation of the door. Repeat on the other door.
The restrictor should now stop your doors at about 90° to prevent it from hitting the sill or brickwork and causing damage. Open and close the doors to ensure that the restrictor allows the doors to fully close. There is a small brass flat head adjusting screw in the top of the sliding arm, this can be gently screwed down to increase the tension in the restrictor to stop the door moving in the wind etc.

100 2
1 TO UNLOCK INSIDE and OUTSIDE
101

FITTING THE WINDOW HANDLE
102
Open the plastic bag there will be an inline window handle 2 posi head machine screws, a locking key, a non key locking pip and a cover cap. When the handle is fitted the handle should be pointing to the right when it is in the closed position. Remove the thin protective tape from the sash before you fit the handle.
With the sash open, push the button and turn the handle to 90. Place the square bar attached to the handle in the centre of the 3 holes in the opening sash, and the handle should now be pointing upwards. Fit the 2 machine screws into the outside holes, and screw them up until they are tight. (There is a threaded section inside the lock which accepts these screws). Do not over tighten the screws or you may deform the plastic of the window and prevent the lock from working smoothly. Open and close the sash and operate the lock to check everything works smoothly.
With the handle in the closed position, carefully place the cover cap over the one screw which is showing into the recess.
To remove the need for a key to open the handle, fit the non key locking pip into the key hole when the handle is in the unlocked position.

GLAZING THE WINDOW

The sealed units in your conservatory are made from toughened glass, this makes them very tough face-on but vulnerable on their edges. Whilst handling the sealed units, please ensure you protect the edges from knocks. Please use gloves and goggles when handling the glass.

103

104

105

106

Position the unit onto the bridge and other packers. These keep the unit away from any water sitting inside the frame.

Centralise the unit within the frame and pack the edges with the appropriate thickness of glass packers. Keep the bead area of the frame clear.

With the glass packed into the frame at the sides and head, fit the glazing beads. The top and bottom beads must be fitted before the side beads.

Insert both corners of the bead into the frame first, this will cause the bead to arch up. Starting at the centre, push the bead down and tap it into position using a rubber/nylon mallet. Once the bead clips into place, continue pushing the bead down and tapping it into position working towards one end. Repeat the process towards the other corner.

ATTACHING TRIMS TO THE FRAMES / TRIMMING PACKERS
All the trims can be finally fitted to the frames. Check for length and carefully trim to size and push into the aluminium sections. Tap firmly into place with a rubber/nylon mallet and seal the top ends with silicone sealant.
If at any time during your installation you have used a plastic packer to make sure the frame is straight, level and plumb, especially against the house wall, please ensure that any parts of the packer which may be protruding from the edges of the frame are carefully trimmed and removed using a chisel or craft type of knife, taking care not to injure or cut yourself. Leaving the edge neat and flush with the frame for sealing.
107

YOUR CONSERVATORY SHOULD NOW BE FITTED AND SECURE

CARE AND MAINTENANCE
When installation has been completed, initial cleaning down should take place:
· Remove any remaining protective tapes and clean off any residual mastic with silicone sealant remover, before washing down with a mild detergent mix.
· The surfaces should be regularly cleaned with soap or mild detergent and water (a proprietary PVCu cleaner can be used for more stubborn marks and stains).
· After cleaning, surfaces should be washed down with clean water and dried. · At suitable intervals during the service life of the door (approximately every 6 months), the lock and hinges should be lightly oiled with acid free
light machine oil rather than penetrating oils such as WD40.
The skeleton of the conservatory is manufactured from high-grade PVCu and will, therefore, never rot, need panting or discolour. Cleaning PVCu is recommended to remove dirt and dust as recommended above, especially in areas prone to high levels of pollution or at coastal areas prone to salty atmospheres.
Do not use any abrasive cleaners or sharp objects to remove marks on your conservatory.
WARRANTY/GUARANTEE
This product is covered by a 10 year manufacturer’s guarantee. Should any part of it become defective due to faulty materials or manufacture, it will be replaced free of charge (supply only). This guarantee does not cover glass breakage or any fault arising from incorrect installation. The product is not guaranteed against faults or defects that arise out of conditions of use or misuse.
The 10 year guarantee is applicable to the frame only. The 5 year guarantee is applicable to the glass units and 2 year guarantee for the hardware. Any replacement parts supplied are for DIY and no claim can be accepted for any costs incurred for the installation of replacement parts. This guarantee is given as an extra benefit and does not affect your statutory rights.
Please retain your receipt as dated proof of purchase. We reserve the right to change the specification of our products without prior notice.
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Adjusting the Sill As you assemble your frames there may be some slight manufacturing tolerances that need to be taken into account. as each side is assembled there may be a need to adjust the sill to fit correctly. If the sill is too long you will have to trim off one end, if it is a bit short the sill can be pulled out of the sill corner connecter a few mm and away from the wall to equalize the sill and frame, remember to seal the end again.
Levelling the frames To ensure the tops of the frames are flat and level before the roof is fitted use a long straight edge and a spirit level, and place packers under the sill at appropriate points to level the whole of the assembly up. These can be sealed later. Fix the windows and doors to the sill with screws now and through to dwarf wall if required.
Lining up the door handle holes If the door handles do not align perfectly use a 10mm drill to open up the holes a touch.
Adjusting the French Doors Use the line scribed on the centre of the door lock to line up the locking door with the secondary door by using the scribed line on the centre of the keep, if these are in line the lock should work correctly. Adjustment in height can be made through the hinges.
Ensure the 2 edges of the door sashes are equally spaced along their length; adjustment can be made through the hinges to achieve this.
Checking the profile Carefully check items for damage before assembly as replacing them after the installation is complete can be tricky. Remove protective tape from the sills to check for damage but replace it again to protect the sill during installation. Repeat this process with the window frames / French door / roof.
At all times continuously check that the frames are being assembled plumb, level and square

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