BRAEMEREMODELS Broughan 20ft Silage Grain Trailer Model Kit Installation Guide

BRAEMERE MODELS Broughan 20ft Silage Grain Trailer Model Kit

Product Information

Specifications

• Product Name: 1:32 Broughan Grain/Silage Trailer
• Recommended Glue: Gorilla Super Glue (Blue Lid)
• Recommended Paint: Automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive acrylic

Product Usage Instructions

Step 1: Preparing the Parts

1. Clean the resin parts (wheels and tires) in warm soapy water to remove any silicone release agent used in the casting process.
2. Remove any excess resin (flash) from the resin parts.
3. Remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts.
4. Sand back the surface of the acrylic parts with a fine grit sandpaper (220 grit or less) to improve adhesion for glue and paint.
5. Remove any raised edges caused by laser cutting to ensure a stronger bond and improved paint adhesion.
6. Be cautious when sanding as acrylic is brittle and can easily snap. If something breaks, line up the crack lines and glue back together, allowing 24 hours for the glue to set firmly.

Step 2: Chassis Assembly

2. Glue the two halves of the chassis rails together, aligning the pivot hole at the rear and the dropped mount in the middle. Take care to align them properly as superglue bonds almost instantly.
3. Ensure you glue them on opposite sides to create the offside and nearside chassis rail.

Step 3: Front Member Assembly

3. Glue the front members of the chassis to one side member. Glue part 18 into the recess at the front of the chassis, and then glue part 17 to the front of part 18 as illustrated.

Step 4: Completing the Chassis Assembly

4. Bring the two chassis rails together by gluing the front member to the second rail.
5. Glue part 21 in the central cross member, aligning it with the slot.
6. Glue part 27 to the rear member, ensuring it sits in the recess behind the recovery eye.

Step 5: Tipping Member Assembly

5. Assemble the tipping member by gluing two parts (22) onto part 20 as illustrated.
6. The two parts (22) should sit 5mm apart and central on the part 20 beam.

Step 6: Attaching the Tipping Member

6. Glue the tipping member into the slot in the middle of the chassis.
7. Ensure that the single hole is towards the rear and the line of four holes are also towards the rear.

Step 7: Rear Light Bracket Assembly

7. Glue the rear light bracket (part 28) into the slot in the chassis rear, with the light details facing the rear and the reflective triangles pointing to the top of the trailer.
8. Glue the 2mm plastic bar into its curved slot on the chassis.
9. If fitting the tow bar, glue it in place now. It attaches to the rear member and round bar.

FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

• Q: What glue is recommended for assembling the model?
• A: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super Glue. The Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue is readily available from most hardware stores including B&Q and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond, and the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks.
• Q: What paint should I use for the model?
• A: The instructions suggest using a good quality automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive acrylic. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be problem-free and provide a good finish while being readily available.
• Q: How should I prepare the resin and acrylic parts before assembly?
• A: Clean all resin parts in warm soapy water to remove any silicone release agent used in the casting process. Remove any excess resin (flash) from the resin parts. Remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and sand back the surface with a fine grit sandpaper (220 grit or less) to improve adhesion for glue and paint.

1:32 Broughan Grain/ Silage Trailer

CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER
The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before painting.

This is a guide to using the kit
Care should be taken at each stage to make sure the model is going together correctly and any alterations that are not in the instructions should be carried out.

Glue :
Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super Glue. I use the Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue which is readily available from most hardware stores including B&Q and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond, the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks.

Paint :
The instructions will suggest the best point to paint components. A good quality automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive acrylic is recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be problem free and provide a good finish to your model while being readily available.

INSTRUCTIONS

Read all the instructions before building to avoid any unexpected suprises

1. Step 1 : To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (wheels and tyres) in a strong washing up liquid solution. Remove any flash from the resin parts too, this is excess resin left over from the casting process where res-in is poured into the mould.
   Then remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or less. The laser cutting process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond can be made and the surface of the plastic is improved for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can give a thin paint application that shows as white edges in the final paint.

   • It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a brittle material and can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can set firmly. The same applies to any resin parts.

2. Step 2 : Glue the two halves of the chassis rails together. 16 to 19 aligning the pivot hole at the rear and the dropped mount in the middle. Take care if using superglue, the bond will be almost instant so make sure they are aligned as you glue. Ensure you glue them opposite sides to make the offside and nearside chassis rail

3. Step 3: Glue the front members of the chassis to one side member. 18 glues into the recess at the front of the chassis. 17 then glues to the front of 18 as illustrated.

4. Step 4: Bring the two chassis rails together by gluing the front member to the second rail while also gluing 21 in the central cross member (aligns with the slot) and 27 to the rear member (sits in recess behind recovery eye).

5. Step 5: Assemble the tipping member by gluing 2x 22 onto 20 as illustrated. The two 22 should sit 5mm apart and central on the 20 beam.

6. Step 6: Glue the tipping member into the slot in the middle of the chassis. Ensure that the single hole is towards the rear and the line of four holes are towards the rear.

7. Step 7: Glue the rear light bracket 28 into the slot in the chassis rear with the light details facing the rear and the reflective triangles pointing to the top of the trailer. Glue the 2mm plastic bar into it curved slot on the chassis. If fitting the tow bar then glue in place now, it attaches to the rear member and round bar.

8. Step 8 : Build the drawbar. 2x 23 glue back to back. There are then 2 tow eye options (24) to glue in the front recess depending on the tractor you wish to hitch too.

9. Step 9 : Fit the drawbar. Loose fit the axles and wheels to the chassis. Select the tractor you wish to hook the trailer too. Place the drawbar eye on the tractor hitch, position the drawbar in the trailer as shown and glue a pin in the appropriate hole on the drawbar hanger. This will allow the trailer to sit correctly on the tractor.

10. Step 10 : To begin constructing the body glue the main floor profile 3 to the 0.5mm floor sheet (A). The sheet is cut oversize so will need trimming down with scissors or a craft knife to sit flush with the main profile on all four sides.

11. Step 11: Build the sides by gluing 1 to 2 and repeating for the other side. ENSURE you glue them opposite ways around to make the two sides. Dry fit first to check.

12. Step 12 : If constructing the silage trailer variant you can now glue 11 and 12 back to back.

13. Step 13 : Glue the thin 0.5mm strips (B) to the back of both sides and silage sides if used. Trim as appropriate.

14. Step 14: Using the smaller thin strips (C) (D) fill the gaps on the front sheet 4.

    • If building the silage variant also glue the mesh to 10. You may need to apply some pressure to the mesh while gluing to obtain a strong bond. You can see how we have used a clamp and some wood to hold the two together while the glue sets. Do NOT overtighten or the acrylic plastic will break.

15. Step 15 : Turn the front sheet over and glue the two 15 strips to either side of the window as illustrated.

16. Step 16 : Build the rear door by gluing 6 to 5 as pictured. Then flip over and glue two more (C) thin sheets over the gaps.

17. Step 17: To build the body first glue one side, the front and the floor together to create a square corner. The front fits in the recess at the front of the side. The bearers in the floor line up flush with the bottom of the sides. The thin floor sheet should sit just above to the two curved wheel cut outs.

    • Complete the main body by adding the second side lining up in the same way as the first. Use a set square while gluing to ensure everything is straight and square.
    • Offer the tailgate up to its recess in the rear, it should be a relatively loos fit.

18. Step 18 : If building the silage trailer glue the extensions to the body as pictured. Make sure the front of the extensions sits 2.5mm back from the front of the main side to allow room for fitting the front mesh panel.

    • You may wish to glue the mesh in place now to simplify painting. If you wish to paint the mesh silver then it will be asier to paint a different colour and glue inplace one painted.
    • If building the grain variant skip straight to step 19.

19. Step 19: Attach the underbody parts. Four hinge plates 26 glue in the front facing forwards as illustrated. They fit in the slots to provide correct spacing. The Two rear hinges 25 sit in their cut out pockets. The four sideguard droppers 33 glue to the thin floor.

    • The fronts are 12mm from the front, the rears are 60mm from the front.
    • The sideguards 32 then glue to the brackets flush with the front of the trailer.

20. Step 20 : Constructing the rest of the tailgate by gluing 8 to either side of the tailgate as illustrated. They tabs sit up to the raised edge of the border and the narrower spacing sits to the top of the tailgate.

21. Step 21: The tail gate arms can now be glued to the tabs with the long arm at the top.

22. Step 22: If building the silage variant you can now attach the extensions to the tailgate. Glue 14 to the thin strip (E). Glue the two sides 13 to either side of 14 as illustrated and glue to the top of the tailgate.

23. Step 23: The ladder can be constructed by gluing the four small blocks 37 to the back . In the photo I have glued them in the wrong location. There should be two blocks at the top where there is no rung across, and then two blocks on the third rung from the other end. See CAD drawing for correct fitment. The ladder can be glued to the front before or after painting. Better paint coverage is achievable when left off.

24. Step 24: You can now dry assemble the model to check that parts fit well such as the tailgate in the rear slot and the chassis to the body hinges. With the chassis on the body and the wheels in place you can fix the mudguards. They should fit as per the drawing but make any alterations necessary so they avoid the wheels and rear lights.

25. Step 25: The parts are now ready for paint. I would recommend starting with a plastic primer, I used Halfords Grey Plastic Primer but a red primer may also be suitable. This helps bond to the acrylic parts while also levelling everything to the same colour. Once the primer is dry I have used an automotive paint. Broughan supply trailers in a wide variety of colours, examples below are all painted in Halfords aerosol colours. Ford Sunburst Red, Ford Electric Blue, Volvo Dark Grey 228 and Gloss Black. These are not an exact match but make for an affordable option. The closest looking RAL colours are as follows.

    • Green—RAL6018 Yellow Green
    • Blue— RAL5015 Sky Blue
    • Red—RAL3020 Traffic Red
    • Grey—RAL7005 Mouse Grey
    • Black—RAL9017 Traffic Black
    • I can’t guarantee any of these colours are exact matches for those used on the real trailer. Rims, Front Mesh, Hose bracket and Drawbar Shoe have all been painted with Hyctoe Aluminium Effect. Any Silver paint is suitable.

26. Step 26: I would recommend applying the decals next as the individual parts are easier to hold before final assembly. The following advice is provided by our decal manufacturer. You can apply these stickers with the “Dry” or “Wet” method.

27. Dry method: (Recomended)

  * Apply decal at room temperature
  * Clean & dry the surface
  * Remove the excess foil from the delivered sticker
  * Remove” the pre-cut decal from the decal sheet and place it on your model
  * Press the sticker firmly to activate the pressure sensitive adhesive;
    *  **This is fully cured after 48 hours**
2.  **Wet Method:**
  * Apply to model at room temperature
  * Clean & dry the surface
  * Mix 1 drop of soap with lime-free water (boiled or distilled) in a container or plant sprayer
  * Remove the excess foil from the supplied sticker sheet
  * Spray the surface to be stickered with the plant sprayer
  * Remove” the pre-cut sticker from the sticker sheet and place your decal on your model
  * Put your sticker through the water/soap tray and place your sticker on your model
  * Correct the position if necessary: these stickers are perfect for that
  * Rub the water under the sticker from the center to the outside of the sticker
  * Press the sticker firmly to activate the pressure sensitive adhesive;
    *  **This is fully cured after 48 hours**  

The reflective tape can be cut (with a knife or scissors) from the supplied sheets of white red and yellow in 2mm length and stuck to the model as desired using the above methods.

27. Step 27: With the decals in place you can begin final assembly of the model. Start by mounting the body on the chassis using a piece of the thicker wire folded to an L shape, thread through the hinge holes and bend at the other end to lock inplace, again taking care not to snap any acrylic.
    Step 28 : Mount the rams in the body, again use the thicker wire and L shape method for the chassis mounting with the wide end of the rams. (You may wish to paint the bottom stage of the ram, the ram can be disassembled by pushing the other way, don’t loose the copper spacers inside!) The top mount on the body requires a length of thick wire cut narrower than the mounts, thread through the mounts and rams and glue the ends to hold. Thin plastic can be used to cap the holes to stop the wire falling out if the glue fails.
    Step 29 : Finally fix the tailgate to the body. To do this use some of the thin wire, cut and bent to an L-shape with pliers. Feed the longer end of the L through the tailgate and body holes. Gently fold the other end of the wire down to hold it in place and connect tailgate to body. BE CAREFUL not to apply to much pressure as this could snap the acrylic or result in the hinge being to tight preventing any tailgate movement. A nice loose bend is perfect, then trim any excess wire with snips.

28. Step 30 : Paint and glue any remaining ancillary items such as the pipe holder, drawbar shoe ladders and mudflaps. If you have painted the mesh silage extension glue this inplace. Take care when gluing painted parts as superglue will fog the surrounding paint. A clear glue like UHU or Deluxe Materials Glue ‘n’ Glaze is better for this job.

Glue the clear panel into the front window, again don’t use super glue for this step, it will fog the clear glazing.

Finally push the 2mm steel axle into one of the rims, thread the axle through the holes in the chassis and push the other rim on to secure. Use the black straw to make spacers if necessary and a little drop of glue will help keep the rims on the axle. Check that the tyre tread is running the right way!

The model is now complete and ready for harvest, sit back and admire your creation, great work!

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