Train Tech SK3 Yellow Green Distant Signal Self Assembly Kit User Guide
- June 13, 2024
- Train-Tech
Table of Contents
SK3+ Yellow-Green Distant Signal self assembly kit
SK3 Yellow Green Distant Signal Self Assembly Kit
CAUTION – ALWAYS SWITCH OFF POWER TO YOUR LAYOUT BEFORE CONNECTING OR
DISCONNECTING ANY ACCESSORIES
This Self assembly signal kit contains an plastic kit, post and LED Light
circuit board with resistor to make a Colour Light signal designed for use on
OO/HO gauge model railways – please read these instructions before assembly
and connecting to power.
Introduction
Contents
1 Plastic Signal kit
1 Aluminium signal post
1 Signal LED lights printed circuit board ‘PCB’
1 1KΩ resistor (Colour: Black Brown Red Gold)
1 Instruction leaflet
Recommended tools (not included) Sharp craft knife or cutters Small
needle file, tweezers or small pliers Adhesives to suit plastic/metal (see
below) Magnifier Cutting mat Thank you for purchasing one of our self assembly
signal kits. This kit is an all new design based on an actual colour light
signal near our base in Norfolk and is fairly typical of British outline
colour light signals and designed to scale with the red light in line with the
train drivers eye, just like the real thing. We have utilised the latest LEDs
for the lights but unlike most signal kits we have presoldered them on narrow
printed circuit boards which makes them much easier to assemble and connect.
They are also more realistic being uncoloured until lit and have an integral
lens so they shine brighter faced from the front.
You can either control this signal using conventional Lever frame or Toggle
type switches or connect it to a DCC decoder to control it from a Digital
controller or computer.
(note that Train-Tech also offer this signal with a built-in DCC decoder which
just plugs straight into the track – no wires or circuitry!)
! Take extra care when using tools and adhesives.
Construction advice
The plastic part of this kit is made of a blend of mostly ABS which is
slightly more forgiving and less brittle than the polystyrene often used for
plastic kits. However it can still be glued together using most general model
kit adhesives such as Humbrol or Revell Liquid Poly or ‘super glue’ – be sure
to follow instructions for application and safety supplied with the adhesive.
Note that if fixing accessories to the aluminium post, such as the phone or
sign, you will need to use a glue which is suitable for bonding plastic to
metal.
To remove parts from the sprue we suggest using either precision wire/model
cutters (available from dcpexpress.com and model or tool suppliers) or a sharp
knife working on a scrap of wood or cutting mat. Some fragile parts, such as
the ladder, may be more easily prepared by first removing the part with its
larger plastic moulding supports attached, then carefully removing the part
from the supports.
If you wish to paint any parts most model enamel paints should work fine but
if unsure check on a small piece of scrap plastic first. Please note that we
cannot help customers assemble kits, but if you have difficulties making kits
we suggest you try contacting your local model club for assistance.
We recommend first cutting thicker supports to release main parts then
trimming off the small supports using a sharp craft knife or cutters
Mounting the signal on your baseboard You will need to drill a hole in your baseboard to clear the signal PCB – we recommend a 6-8mm hole so that the signal can be lifted with wires still fitted if required. The signal can be free standing or held by suitable glue or double sided sticky pad.
Assembling the kit
The exploded diagram below shows all the various components which go to make
up a complete signal, although you can fit as few or as many of the detailing
parts as you wish for your model.
We recommend you read the construction advice below on how to remove parts,
adhesives etc.
Suggested order of assembly:
- Slide LED PCB through slot in head mount
- Push fit or glue head mount onto aluminium post
- Push fit post into main base plate and align
- Glue front and back of head cover over LED’s
- Dry fit or glue ladder between head mount & base
- Glue base cover under base if desired
- Glue handrails, phone, location board if desired
Wiring advice
Electrical connection to the signal is via metal ‘pads’ at the bottom of the
LED light PCB. These pads are made from thin copper bonded to the fibreglass
and then ‘tinned’ to ensure reliable and easy connection.
The best method of connection is by soldering wires onto these pads using a
small tip soldering iron of 18-25 watts, taking care not to apply heat for too
long. Note that by pre-tinning wires before soldering onto the pads you will
find that the solder will flow much more easily to make a secure joint
quickly.
If you prefer not to solder then you can wrap thin stranded wire around the
pads by stripping off insulation, twisting strands tightly together and
wrapping them round the signal base and tightly binding insulation tape around
each joint. However soldering is the preferred and most reliable method.
Whichever method you use take care not to let the wires short circuit to each
other and do not forget to fit a resistor in series as shown before powering
up your new signal!
Location board labels
These legends can be cut out and glued to the model Location board on the
plastic detailing sprue.
If using DCC we suggest you use the address you have programmed into your
signal decoder which will make the signal easier to identify and operate.
Connecting the signal
The LED lights are presoldered onto a PCB which has large contacts at the base
to connect your wires to. You can either control it by conventional Lever or
Toggle switches or alternatively a digital decoder (eg Train-Tech SC1) if you
wish to control it using a DCC controller or computer – follow the connection
instructions supplied with the decoder.
You MUST fit a resistor as shown below and power from a DC supply or DCC
decoder or you will cause permanent damage to the LEDs (Unless using with
Train-Tech DCC Signal controllers which incorporate resistors inside)
IMPORTANT NOTE
The terminals on this SK+ kit have changed since the original signal kits to
add connections for fitting feather and theatre route indicators, so please be
sure to refer to the wiring diagram below.
Wiring suggestion for switches
Using LEDs with model railways
The lights used in this signal kit are called LEDs.
LEDs are really useful lights which, unlike their conventional filament
predecessors, are robust, low power and if used correctly run cool and can
effectively last forever.
But there are some important considerations when using LEDs. Firstly LED
stands for Light Emitting Diode and a diode is an electronic component which
only works in when power is applied in one specific direction, so they always
need to be fitted the correct way round to work correctly.
Also most standard miniature LEDs a modeller will use only need very small
amounts of power, so the current flowing through the LED must be limited and
this is usually done by a resistor as supplied in this kit. On the usual 12-16
volts DC supply a railway modeller uses a 1kΩ (one thousand ohms) will limit
the current to around 10-14mA (mA is thousandths of an amp) which is ideal for
most LED’s.
Note you should only ever use LEDs on a DC (direct current) supply and never
an AC (alternating current) supply because although the LED may appear to work
properly constant reversal of voltage using AC will eventually damage or
shorten its life.
Train-Tech offers packs of various LEDs for modellers and again these always
come with both instructions and suitable resistors for using them on a
standard Model Railway DC supply or non TrainTech DCC controllers.
Using Signals with Train-Tech DCC controllers Train Tech offer various LED
controllers including the SC1 and SC2 DCC signal controllers which allow
signals such as this to quickly and easily connect to DCC layouts for control
by Digital controller or computer. They are quick to connect needing no
resistors or soldering and set up in seconds with no programming of CV codes.
As well as Signal Controllers, Train-Tech also makes a range of LFX LED
lighting controllers which work on both DC and DCC and offer effects to
simulate level crossings, welding, traffic lights etc – again resistors are
built into all of the LFX units and so LEDs connect directly to them.
See www.train-tech.com for full details.