Dive Gear Express DGX Gears D6 1st Stage Regulator Owner’s Manual

Dive Gear Express DGX Gears D6 1st Stage Regulator

Overview

1. The availability of subassemblies and components, repair parts, specialized tools, and maintenance manuals does not imply qualification to assemble and/or service scuba equipment. Improper service of dive equipment can lead to severe injury or death. Dive Gear Express recommends that non-qualified individuals seek professional training/mentoring before attempting repairs or servicing on any diving equipment.
   Failure to follow the procedures outlined herein may result in injury or death!

2. In the following pages will be found the disassembly, assembly, tuning and troubleshooting steps for these components. Photos are used throughout to illustrate the procedures.
   Please pay special attention to all Caution Notes!

3. Whenever an item of extra importance needs to be observed, a “Caution Note:” will appear, followed by the required information. See below.
   Caution Note: This must be read and followed!

4. Included in this manual is a list of recommended/required tools for each disassembly, assembly, and testing section. They are identified in each section where they are used.

5. A schematic diagram is located at the rear of this manual. The diagram contains the detailed parts lists. The diagram also includes the torque specifications for parts where required.

6. A general troubleshooting guide with space for notes is also included for those using a printed version. Those who prefer an electronic version should keep detailed notes in an accessible location for their own observations and service tips, as well as a record of service.

7. Throughout the text, parts are referenced using the item number on the schematic to facilitate locating each individual component.

8. is a photograph of the Service Parts Kit with labels. Parts should not be taken out of their packaging until the actual assembly stage is reached, and the user is ready to lubricate, where necessary, and install them.

9. Ensure the service area is free of any environmental concerns that may cause problems during the servicing of your regulators. The area must be clean and organized. The use of nitrile gloves is highly recommended for the final rinsing and assembly stages. This will minimize the risk of skin oils contaminating the internal components of the regulator.

10. Ensure that all required servicing/testing air supplies are available and at the proper test pressures if not using a regulated supply from a single source. This includes the use of cylinders of compressed breathing air from an OCA-grade source if you wish to maintain the oxygen-clean status of the unit.
    Caution Note: Only use air from a breathing air source!
    Cleaning and Rinsing – General Considerations

11. Cleaning and rinsing of the components should be done using clean, fresh water. If available, distilled water is recommended to maintain oxygen cleanliness.

12. Only use degreasers that leave no organic residue (e.g. Simple Green Free & Clear, Blue Gold Cleaner, or any clear liquid dish soap that does not contain scents or dyes).

13. To deal with corrosion, use a 50/50 vinegar/water solution and nylon brushes.

14. Allow parts to air dry without the use of cloths that may leave fibers. For regulators that are going to be used with oxygen percentages above 40%, a UV light is strongly recommended to check for organic contamination.

15. Once all service procedures have been completed and bench testing is done, in-water testing in a confined environment such as a swimming pool is recommended to confirm proper function before taking the regulator on an actual dive.

Cleaning of Regulator Parts

1. Cleaning the parts that are going to be reused is one of the most critical steps in servicing the regulator. As was stated earlier, use the proper solutions for the job at hand. Vinegar and water are not as useful for removing lubricating grease as one the detergents that were noted. By the same token, those detergents are not as efficient as the vinegar/water mix in dealing with corrosive buildup.
2. Therefore, where you have a buildup of corrosion, you may also have lubricant on the surface of the part. Before dealing with the corrosion, use hot soapy water and a soft brush to remove the lubricant. Then use the acidic solution to deal with the corrosion.
3. Once the corrosion has been dealt with, wash the parts using a fresh soap and water solution while wearing nitrile gloves to reduce the risk of contaminating the parts with skin oils. Rinse the parts with clean running water, distilled is preferred, and that can drain freely. A plastic pasta colander is excellent for this. For very small parts, a mesh strainer for sink drains works well. Often sold as a set, they are inexpensive and can be used for many types of regulator components. See the photographs of each in the tool section.
4. After washing and rinsing the regulator parts, allow them to air dry. Using a drying rack will aid in this, as well as having the air in the room circulating. Do not lay the parts on a paper or cloth towel. Doing so runs the risk of having fibers stick to them that will cause issues with sealing. In addition to this, fibers can be a hazard when using the regulator with high oxygen content mixes.
5. Once the parts have dried completely, lay them out in order of assembly on the pad used on the work surface. A rubber or silicone mat of suitable size that is clean and free of contaminants works well for this. You can also use small clean containers to keep the parts organized. Once the parts have been cleaned and dried, they need to be inspected before starting the assembly process.

Inspection After Cleaning

1. Before assembling the regulator, it is necessary to inspect all the cleaned components. Using the magnifying glass, ensure all parts are clean and contaminate-free and check the components for damage that may have been hidden by corrosion or lubricant. Look for scratches that may affect the sealing of the regulator. In a darkened room, use UV light to look for organic material. If any are present, re-clean the part! This is critical for use with oxygen percentages above 50%! (22) Another way to check for residual lubricants is to fill a tray with clean, fresh water deep enough to cover the parts by an inch or so. Lay the components in and circulate the water. Allow the pieces to soak for several minutes. Once it has settled, look for a rainbow sheen on the surface of the water. Any residual lubricants will float and form a “slick” on the surface. If one is present, the parts must be cleaned again.
2. Now that all parts have been cleaned and checked, the assembly can begin. Make sure all old parts that are to be replaced have been discarded or segregated. Remove the new parts from the main service kit bag and lay them out in the order they will be used. Do not take the new parts out of the individual bags yet!
3. Caution Note: Removing parts from their individual bags, before they are to be used, runs the risk of mixing them up. Some O-rings are very close in size but are not interchangeable! Keep the parts in the bags until you need them.
4. As with the parts that have been cleaned, it is a good idea to inspect the new parts as well. Inspect the HP seat to ensure it is free of any defects. Check all the O-rings and inspect them as you use them for nicks or other concerns. Inspect the washers to ensure they are free of excess burrs or other issues that could affect their function. It is also a good idea to use the parts list on the schematic to ensure that all the new parts that are needed are present and accounted for in their required quantities.
5. Lubrication can be overdone. Doing so runs the risk of trapping excess dirt or debris on the parts. One way of reducing the risk of overdoing it is to use the lube-in-a-bag method.
6. This involves using a small clean plastic bag containing a small amount of lubricant. The O-ring is inserted into the bag, worked around to evenly coat with lube while squeezing off excess, then taken out of the bag and used in its location.
7. Another way is to apply a small amount of lubricant to the gloved index finger and massage the Oring between the thumb and index finger. Either way works, but the bag method tends to give better distribution results and uses less lubricant.
8. Under most circumstances, a lubricant should be used very sparingly or not at all. In nearly all scuba applications, if you can see the lubricant, too much has been applied. Before using any lubricant, any existing lubrication should be removed before new is applied. In dynamic applications, it is used to reduce excessive wear. Static O-rings do not generally require the use of lubricant.
9. Where parts are not necessary to be lubricated, it is good practice to avoid getting any lubricant on them, especially when the regulator is used with high oxygen content mixes. It also helps to keep those parts clean and free of debris that will cling to the lubricant.

Tool List

1. The tool list has been divided into two sections. Required and Recommended. Required tools are necessary for servicing the regulator. Recommended are those items that make servicing easier or more efficient and lessen the chance of damage.

Required Tools

1. Adjustable torque wrench 3/8 drive 0-300 inch-pounds range
2. Scuba Tools # 5 Hook Spanner (2 of these will simplify some steps) with .140-.150 pin
3. First Stage Handle or First Stage Body Holding Tool
4. 19mm 3/8-inch drive deep socket and ratchet
5. 6mm 3/8-inch drive hex socket
6. 7mm 3/8-inch hex socket
7. 2 adjustable wrenches
8. Brass O-ring picks
9. Intermediate Pressure Gauge
10. Tribolube 71
11. Soft bristle cleaning brushes (nylon)

Recommended Tools

1. Second Stage In-Line Adjusting Tool with slotted orifice selected
2. Soft jawed vise
3. Wooden or plastic dowels, 1/8 ­ 3/16 diameter
4. Soft rubber pad
5. Magnifying glass
6. Flashlight
7. UV light

The Scuba Tools parts can be found at the link below. They also have some of the other tools noted but are not the only supplier of them.
www.scubatools.com/p-536-hook-spanner-5-15-in-diameter- arc.aspx www.scubatools.com/p-664-interchangeable-pin-140-dia-for-hook- spanner-or-custom-face-spanner.aspx
The First Stage Body Holding Tool, In-Line Adjusting Tool with IP Gauge, Spanner Wrench, Brass ORing Pick Set, and IP Gauge can be found at Dive Gear Express using the link below: https://www.divegearexpress.com/tools/scuba- tools

Additional useful items are nitrile gloves and, to aid in rinsing, a plastic colander ­ Fig. 5, and small mesh strainers for smaller parts

Preliminary Testing

1. Preliminary testing of the regulator is necessary to identify any issues with the first and second stages and verify the overall regulator function. This testing will include:

2. Visual inspection of the first and second stages

3. Inspection of the hoses

4. Intermediate Pressure (IP) check

5. Cracking pressure and second stage negative pressure test

6. Visual inspection is done to identify issues that could affect servicing and to ensure that pressurizing the system will not compromise the safety of the service technician.

7. The technician will check all connections to make sure they are secure.

8. The technician will check that on the first stage, there are no extruded O-rings, and the hoses are tight.

9. The technician will check there are no defects to the SPG.

10. The technician will ensure that the DIN assembly is secure, and the O-ring is intact and able to form a seal.

11. The technician will inspect the filter for signs of discoloration.

12. Detailed inspection of hoses is done to ensure it is safe to pressurize the regulator set.

13. The technician will check all hoses, looking for evidence of possible failure.

14. The technician will check all hose connection crimps. Defects must be taken care of before pressurizing the system! Replacement of any suspect hoses is recommended.

15. Caution Note : Defects in hoses require replacement before pressurizing the regulator! Failure to do so may result in serious injury or death!

16. The technician will check the SPG for any signs of cracking of the face, water intrusion, and corrosion around the SPG to the hose connection. If using a console or boot, it is necessary to remove the SPG from the rubber boot. Once this is done, the HP spool should be inspected and, if necessary, replaced.

17. The Intermediate Pressure (IP) of the system should be tested only after the preceding checks have been done to ensure technician safety. Checking of intermediate pressure is done by attaching an IP gauge to the low-pressure (LP) inflator hose.

18. The system is then pressurized while partially depressing the purge button on one of the second stages. Depressing the purge button slightly on the second stage is done to prevent further damage to the system by providing a relief valve should the IP rise rapidly to unsafe levels. Once the system has been pressurized, the purge is released, and the IP is checked.
    Caution Note: If the second stage is leaking even slightly, IP will be affected. If it is leaking, turn the adjustment knob to stop the flow or use a second stage that is not leaking when paired with the first stage. It is a clear indication that the second stage requires rebuilding if turning the adjustment knob does not stop the flow.

19. The standard operating range for the system is an IP of 135 PSI. Ideally, the system is operating at 135 PSI +/- 5 PSI and shows no signs of “creep” or instability at 3000 PSI.
    Caution Note: “Creep” will show as the IP steadily increases while the regulator is not in use. Normally the IP will drop 5-10 PSI during a breath or purge and then return to its setting. It should not return to the setting and keep increasing. This would indicate a problem with the High-Pressure Seat, Piston, or sealing O-rings.

20. If the system shows no sign of creep or IP instability, it is generally not necessary to rebuild the first stage, with some exceptions.
    Caution Note: If the unit shows signs of internal corrosion or the filter shows evidence of contamination, the unit must be rebuilt, regardless of the IP.

21. The regulator will require rebuilding if small bubbles are leaking from between the turret retainer and main body, from under the rubber cap, or out of the high-pressure seat retainer. Knowledge of flooding of the first stage will also require the unit to be rebuilt. Freshwater contains dissolved minerals and other materials that, due to internal corrosion over time, may cause the regulator to malfunction.

22. After the IP has been checked, hoses and regulator body inspected, and SPG evaluated, the service of the first stage can take place if it is determined that service is necessary.

First Stage Disassembly

Ensure the system is depressurized. Document the position of all hoses and port plugs. The use of small, clean containers to hold parts is recommended.
In the following steps, the part numbers from the schematic will be used with their description. The numbers on the photos also correspond with the parts list on the schematic. Items in the service kits are identified in the same way in Fig. 35. Have both in front of you while following the instructions. Be sure to keep all old parts organized and separate from new ones in the service kit. The old washers and O-rings marked with an asterisk (*) will be replaced with new ones from the service kit and the remaining parts will be cleaned and reused.

1. Remove all hoses and loosen the Env Cap (22) ­

2. Remove the Env Cap (22), Silicone Disk (21), and Transmitter (20) ­ Fig 8. It is often easier to remove the cap with the first stage installed on an unpressurized cylinder. It may be necessary to use both pin spanners to loosen the cap if corrosion is present. If this is the case, soaking in 50/50 hot water/vinegar solution will aid in freeing up the connection. Use even steady pressure to work with both pin spanners. If it is badly seized or the holes are in such orientation that using both is impaired by the DIN Wheel (07), perform Step 3. and then try to remove the Env Cap. Remove the port plugs (32, 34) with O-rings (31, 33)

3. Secure the regulator in a vise using the first stage handle with the DIN assembly facing up – Fig. 10. Remove the DIN Retainer (03) using a 6mm Hex ­

4. Lift the DIN Wheel (07) off the DIN Housing (08) – Loosen and remove the DIN Housing using a 19mm deep socket or open-end wrench. Remove the Saddle (10). shows all parts disassembled at this point.

5. Unscrew the Adjustment Screw (19) until no spring pressure is felt with the 6mm hex ­ Fig. 15. Three to four turns are sufficient. Do not remove the screw. With the first stage handle in one of the high-pressure ports and a pin spanner, loosen the Diaphragm Cap (18) by applying firm, even downward pressure. Do this with the first stage on the rubber pad ­ Fig. 16. At this point, there will be a gap between the Main Housing (11) and the Diaphragm Cap (18) ­ Fig. 17.

6. Caution Note: If the regulator has not been properly rinsed, the connection may be too tight to loosen without damage. In this case, it may be necessary to soak the assembly in a 50/50 hot water/vinegar solution and try loosening it again. Do not try to force by tapping with a mallet on the spanner or using a breaker bar. Too much torque can deform the pin spanner locating the hole. The hole can also be damaged by using too small of a pin on the spanner. A .140 to .150 is the correct diameter pin.

7. Turn the regulator over so that the Turret (24) faces up ­ Fig. 18. Unscrew the Diaphragm Cap assembly

8. The Diaphragm Cap assembly consists of the Cap (18), the Spring Seat (15), Spring Washers (16*), Main Spring (17), and Adjust Screw (19)

9. Turn the Main Housing (11) upright as shown to expose the Diaphragm (13) and Diaphragm Washer (14). Using a brass or plastic pick, remove the Washer and Diaphragm. This will expose the Lifter (12)

10. Remove the Lifter (12) from the Main Housing.

11.  Secure the first stage handle in the vise with the Turret (24) facing up and insert the 6mm hex into it, making sure that it is firmly seated and straight. Failure to firmly seat the hex may damage the sides of Turret Bolt (30) ­ Fig. 24.
    Caution Note: Take whatever steps are necessary for keeping track of items that are part of an assembly. This degree of organizing the workspace will reduce the risk of mistakes resulting in the regulator’s failure.

12. With the 6mm hex and ratchet, loosen the Turret Bolt (30) – Fig. 25. Do not remove it at this time. Take the first stage handle and regulator out of the vise. Turn the Main Housing vertical as seen, and using the 6mm hex, remove the Turret Bolt.

13. Note that this removes the entire HP Seat assembly. Doing it in this manner ensures that no parts are accidentally lost.

14. Set the Main Housing aside and carefully remove the HP Seat (25). Pull the Valve Spring (26) off the Turret Bolt. Remove the Thrust Washer (28) and O-ring (29). Using the pinch method or brass/nylon pick, remove the O-ring (04) ­

15. Removal of O-ring (27*) requires great care. The sealing of this O-ring with the stem of the HP seat and Turret bolt inner surface is critical to the regulator’s safe operation. Using a brass or nylon pick, remove the O-ring by carefully working it out of its location. It is better to work it from the “outside-in” to avoid scratching the Turret bolt side ­ Fig. 29. It can also be stabbed and worked out. It sometimes will come out in pieces. This is acceptable. Just make sure the Turret Bolt is cleaned well afterward. Carefully inspect the sealing surface using a magnifying glass. Any scratch will compromise the ability to seal the HP Seat stem. Fig. 30 shows the O-ring removed from the Turret Bolt.

16. Remove the Turret (24) from the regulator Main Housing ­ Fig. 31. Remove the O-ring (23*) from the Main Housing. Note that the O-ring may come off with the Turret ­

17. Carefully inspect the machined orifice in the Main Housing. It should show no evidence of nicks or uneven surfaces on the bevels.

This completes the disassembly of the D6 First Stage.

The photographs below show the disassembled first stage ­ Fig. 34 and the items in the Service Parts Kit ­ Fig. 35. The parts not in the service kit need to be washed, rinsed and dried, as discussed previously.

First Stage Assembly

Before starting the first stage assembly, complete a thorough inspection of all parts to be reused. Refer to the Overview Inspection section for details. At this time, open the service kit and lay out the parts. Use the schematic diagram and Service Parts Kit photo to identify each part.

Caution Note: Only use enough lubricant to lightly coat the O-rings and ensure no debris is trapped on them.

1. The first step in assembling the now cleaned first stage is to assemble the regulator’s diaphragm side. Place the Lifter (12) in the Main Housing (11) hole as shown ­ Fig. 36. Install the Diaphragm (13*) by inserting one side and working it into place using your finger or a nylon pick.

2. Install the Diaphragm Washer (14*) in the same manner by inserting one side and pulling it under the lip as you work it into place ­ Fig. 38. Using the brass or nylon pick, smooth the Washer to ensure it is firmly seated ­ Fig. 39. Do not wrinkle the Washer. This will cause the Diaphragm to leak.

3. The Diaphragm Cap (18), Adjust Screw (19), Spring Seat (15), Washers (16), and Main Spring (17) will be assembled in the order shown in Fig. 40.
   Fig. 40 4. Turn the Adjust Screw (19) into the Diaphram Cap (18) until 3 to 4 threads are showing as illustrated ­ Fig. 41. Stack the Washer (16), Main Spring (17) Washer (16*), and Spring Seat (15) in the Adjust Screw (18). Turn the regulator Main Housing upside down and screw the Cap assembly into it. Hand tightens ­ Fig. 42.

4. Tighten the Diaphragm Cap assembly onto the Main Housing using the pin spanner ­ Fig. 43. There should be no gap between the Main Housing and the Cap. The connection is tight when pressure is applied using the spanner, and no movement is observed.

5. Turn the Main Housing so that the HP side faces up. Lubricate the O-ring (23*) and place it on the Housing ­ Fig. 44. Push the Turret (24) onto the Housing and turn it to be sure it is seated and rotates smoothly ­ Fig. 45. There should be some resistance, but it should not hang up or seize. Any dirt, hair, or other debris will compromise the seal.

6. Set the Turret Bolt (30) on a flat surface. Using the Tribolube syringe, apply a small amount of lube to the O-ring seating area. Install the O-ring (27) using a dowel to push it into place and seat ­ Fig. 46. Place O-ring (29) on the Turret Bolt, followed by the Thrust Washer (28). Lubricate one of the O-rings (04) and work it onto the Turret Bolt’s threads ­ Fig. 47.

7. Place the Valve Spring (26) on the Turret Bolt (30) ­ Fig. 48. Lubricate the HP Seat (25) tip by placing it in the bag used to lubricate the O-rings and rotate it. Push the HP Seat stem into the O-ring (27) until it seats on the Valve Spring (26) as shown ­ Fig. 49. Push down on the seat a few times to ensure it moves without binding or tilting.

8. Install the Turret Bolt assembly (25-30 and 04) into the Main Housing ­ Fig. 50. This is done by holding the Housing vertical and the Turret Bolt assembly on the hex socket. Insert the assembly up into the housing and turn until the threads are engaged. Continue to turn the Turret Bolt assembly until it is seated.

9. If not already done, install the first stage handle in one of the HP ports. Clamp the handle in a vise with the Turret Bolt facing up ­ Fig. 51. Using the torque wrench and hex socket, torque the Turret Bolt to 170 in lbs/200 kgf cm/19 Nm ­ Fig. 52. Ensure the socket is firmly seated and straight. Failure to do this may result in stripping the hex sides.

10. Turn the first stage handle so that the DIN inlet is facing up. Place the Saddle (10) on the inlet. Install the O-ring (09*) at the end of the DIN Housing (08) ­ Fig. 53. A tiny amount of lube ­ only enough to result in a slight sheen – to prevent the O-ring from seizing and being damaged can be applied. This is enough to reduce the risk of damaging it. Screw the DIN Housing in and apply 230 in lbs/260 kgf cm/26 Nm of torque with the 19mm deep socket and the torque wrench – Fig. 54.

11. Set the DIN Wheel (07) on the DIN Housing ­ Fig. 55. Place the O-ring (06) on the Filter (05) as shown ­ Fig. 56. Place the pair in the DIN Housing and push into place with the dowel rod ­ Fig. 57.

12. Caution Note : Torquing the DIN Housing and DIN Retainer connections to different values reduces the housing’s risk of becoming loose or the retainer and housing to be seized. This can occur when the regulator is pressurized and then rotated on the tank valve to orient it, usually for hose routing. Subsequently, a diver may notice the loose retainer and grab a hex to snug it up. Possibly to the same torque as the housing. Now when the body is turned, the entire assembly is loosened. Always use the proper torque on the components. If the retainer should loosen, and no torque wrench is handy, the proper thing to do is wait until one is to tighten the assembly. Only rotate the regulator on the valve when depressurized to achieve optimal hose routing.

13. Install the O-ring (04*) on the thread end of the DIN Retainer (03) ­ Fig. 58. Screw the DIN Retainer into the DIN Housing. Using the torque wrench and the 6mm hex, torque the connection to 150 in lbs/170 kgf cm/17 Nm ­ Fig. 59.

14. Install the O-ring (02*) into the DIN Retainer (03) – Fig. 60. This completes the assembly of the first stage. Testing and adjustments may now be made. The Transmitter (20), Silicone Disc (21), and Env Cap (22) are not installed until the testing and adjustment steps are complete ­ Fig. 61. Only install the Transmitter (20), Silicone Disc (21), and ENV CAP (22) when the regulator is pressurized.

First Stage Torque Specifications

For a successful rebuild, it is necessary to use proper torque on all connections that require it. The following specifications should be used, listed in the order they occur in the assembly:

• Turret Bolt (30) to Main Housing (11) 170 in lbs/200 kgf cm/19 Nm
• DIN Housing (08) to Main Housing (11) 230 in lbs/260 kgf cm/26 Nm
• DIN Retainer (03) to DIN Housing (08) 150 in lbs/170 kgf cm/17 Nm

First Stage Testing

1. To test the first stage, a regulated breathing air supply, OCA Grade Source if the regulator is to be used with Nitrox, or several SCUBA cylinders are needed. If using a regulated supply, set the initial supply to 500 PSI. If using cylinders, 3 are recommended with 500 PSI, 1500 PSI, and 3000 PSI levels. You will need to move the regulator between the cylinders, and each time it is pressurized, be sure to have the purge button depressed slightly and allow the supply pressure to come up with this safety measure used. A transfill whip like the one from Dive Gear Express will make setting up the cylinders easier. https://www.divegearexpress.com/dgx-transfill-hose-with-analog-gauge
2. Attach a second stage with a hose with an in-line tool/IP gauge combination or a second stage with a hose and a low-pressure inflator hose with a plug-in IP gauge. With the supply set to 500 PSI, slowly pressurize the regulator while slightly purging the second stage to act as a safety.
3. Allow the second stage to slightly flow and release the purge button slowly. Observe the IP. It should come up to between 90 and 120 PSI and stay at that reading. If it goes over 135 PSI, immediately purge the second stage and turn the supply pressure off. Back the Adjustment Screw out one full turn. Reapply pressure as before. Only adjust the IP with the orifice not in contact with the seat. This means either the supply pressure is off, or only turn the Screw when the second stage is purged, and the air is flowing. Adjust the IP in small increments. As you approach the target pressure of 135 PSI, it will take less of a turn to affect the pressure.
4. With the reg at 135 PSI, breathe or purge the second stage 40-50 times. A slight drop may occur.
5. Next, increase the supply to 1500 PSI and repeat the procedure. Observe the IP and ensure that it is not creeping. It may drop a few PSI as the seat and orifice begin to develop a groove. This is normal and does not indicate a problem.
6. Now increase the supply pressure to 3000 PSI and repeat the procedure as before. The IP may drop as much as 10 PSI or less than that. Turn the Adjustment Screw until you have 135 PSI on the IP gauge. Purge or breathe the second stage 40-50 times. The IP should hold steady. Do not exceed 135 PSI at 3000 PSI supply pressure.
7. Caution Note: A balanced first stage is designed to slightly increase the IP as cylinder pressure drops. This is to maintain optimum airflow to the diver. With the IP at 135 PSI at 3000 PSI, the IP may increase to 140+ at 500 PSI or less. This is normal. If the IP was set near the top of the normal operating range of 140 + at 3000 PSI, it would likely raise above the maximum operating pressure of 145 PSI. This could result in damage to the HP Seat. It could overcome the second stage and cause a free flow (possibly icing if diving in colder water).
8. With the first stage pressurized, install the Transmitter (20), Silicone Disc (21), and Env Cap (22) hand tight. Do not overtighten with a pin spanner. These parts are installed only when the first stage is pressurized because they trap a small amount of air when they are installed. If installed when the regulator is depressurized, this amount of air is added to by the pressure of the transmitter raising when the valve is turned on. This, in turn, forces the Silicone Disc to bulge upwards and compromises the seal. It also will deform the disc over time, necessitating a replacement of the disc.
9. Finally, take the first stage with the second stage and LP inflator hose and place it on a cylinder that can be submerged in water. Submerge the first stage and check for any leaks between the Main Housing and Turret, DIN connection, port plugs, and hose connections. If none are present, the first stage of service and testing are complete.
10. Caution Note: Do not submerge the second stage with the in-line tool attached or with the plug-in IP gauge on the low-pressure inflator. They are made for surface use only and submerging them may result in damage to the tool or gauge!

General Trouble Shooting­ Not all possibilities may be noted.

Housing/End Caps damaged; dirt introduced during a rebuild; Diaphragm or Washer compromised
DIN connection loosening| Failure to properly torque connection; adjusting orientation while pressurized
|

PARTS

1. 30 Torque: 170 in-lbs
2. 200 kgf cm/19 Nm
3. 08 Torque: 230 in Ibs
4. 260 kgf com/26 Nm
5. 03 Torque: 150 in lIbs
6. 170 kgf cm/17 Nm

Copyright © 2021 Dive Gear Express All Rights Reserved

References

• Hook Spanner #5 (1.5 in. diameter)
• DGX Gas Transfill Hose with Analog Gauge | Dive Gear Express®
• SCUBA Equipment Maintenance Tools | Dive Gear Express®

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