PERGO XP Ellwood Maple 10 mm T x 7.5 in. W Laminate Wood Flooring Instruction Manual
- June 10, 2024
- PERGO
Table of Contents
Ellwood Maple 10 mm T x 7.5 in. W
Laminate Wood Flooring
Instruction Manual
XP Ellwood Maple 10 mm T x 7.5 in. W Laminate Wood Flooring
Job Site
Site Requirements
Laminate is a durable floor covering, not intended as structural material.
Laminate requires a clean, dry, secure subfloor that meets building codes.
The following requirements are not intended to supersede federal, state or
local building codes, but as with many other interior finish products, may
require modifying existing structural components for successful installation.
Owner assumes responsibility for compliance with all building codes.
Laminate floor is suitable for use in climate controlled (35-65% RH and 60-85°
F) indoor installations only and should not be installed over any floor with a
sump pump or in a room with a floor drain. Laminate floor can be installed
above, on or below grade.
A moisture test is strongly recommended to determine if high moisture exists
in the subfloor. When using a calcium chloride moisture test for concrete
subfloors (ASTM F1869), values must be ≤ 5 lbs/1000ft²/24-hr or <80% RH with
an in-situ probe (ASTM F2170). Moisture readings of wood subfloors must be ≤
12%.
Acceptable job site conditions, including relative humidity and subfloor
moisture conditions, must be maintained throughout the lifetime of the
flooring.
Laminate flooring is installed as a floating floor and requires the e use of
T-moldings in doorways 4 ft (1.22m) or less and in rooms 40 feet (12.2 m) or
larger in length or width. Floor movement must not be constrained by glue,
nails, screws, hardware or other fixed obstructions.
This product must be installed in accordance with these installation
instructions.
PERGO XP Install Instructions
Site and Material Preparation
Site and Material Preparation
A.) Remove carpet and padding. Also remove any wood flooring installed on
concrete. Do not remove products unless they are asbestos-free.
B.) Undercut door frame and wallbase. Slide the flooring at least 1/4″
underneath the door frame and wallbase. Also leave a concealed 3/8″ minimum
expansion space under each.
C.) Remove bumps or peaks in subfloor and fill depressions with floor leveling
compound to ensure no more than 3/16″ unevenness per 10-foot span.
D.) Acclimate unopened product before installation. If there is no time for
acclimation, there should be no more than a difference of 25° F and 20%
relative humidity between the stocking/transportation environment of the
flooring and the final installation environment of the flooring.
E.) Clean debris from subfloor before installation.
F.) For concrete subfloors, install vapor barrier with overlapped seams of 8″
or more.
G.) For planks without attached underlayment, install over single layer of
underlayment appropriate for laminate floors. For planks with attached
underlayment, it is acceptable to install Pergo FloorMate™ underlayment prior
to flooring installation if desired. Make sure to follow the Pergo Floor Mate™
installation instructions, taking special care to seal all foam edges with
sealing tape and repair all rips and perforations in the underlayment vapor
barrier prior to flooring installation. A separate vapor barrier should not be
used in conjunction with Pergo FloorMate™.
Flooring Installation
-
Inspect each plank. Floor should be installed blending planks from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture throughout the installation.
-
For the first row along straight walls, remove the tongue on all long side joints and on the short side of the 1st plank only.
-
For uneven walls, trace contour on tongue-side of plank and cut.
-
Assemble the first row tongue side toward wall. Insert the end tongue into the end groove and rotate downward to assemble. Keep the planks aligned and the joints closed.
-
Two spacers thick side to thick side = 3/8″.
-
Provide a 3/8″ space for expansion on all sides. First piece must be at least 8″ long. Start new rows with pieces trimmed from previous row. Ensure at least a 12″ end joint offset.
-
At a slight angle, insert the tongue of plank 2 into the groove of plank 1 until the laminate edges meet, and then rotate down until the joints lock.
-
Join the short end of the plank first. There will be a gap on the long side joints when the plank is rotated down.
-
Raise the outside edge of the plank upward approximately 1″. Maintain this angle as you push the plank in until the laminate edges meet. Rotate downward on the plank until the joint locks. Repeat these steps to complete the installation. Installation Tip: Place a carton of planks across the end of the row being installed to keep installed planks in place during installation.
-
Alternate Tap Method: Align the tongues into the grooves of the long and short sides of the planks. Install the long side first by placing a tapping block no closer than 8″ from either end and tap lightly along the long side until the joint is closed tightly. Then tap the end using the tapping block into a locked position. Note: Uneven tapping or use of excessive force may damage the joint.
-
Ensure there will be a 3/8″ gap (after the joint is closed) to the wall for expansion.
-
For the last row, align the plank to be used on top of the 2nd to last row. Using a full width plank as a spacer, trace wall contour and cut plank.
-
For the last row, install the long side tongue into the groove with the end joint aligned. Using a pull bar and hammer, work evenly along the length of the plank and lightly tap the joint closed.
-
After tapping the long side joint closed, tap the short side closed, using a tapping block or a pull bar.
Installation Under Doorway Frames -
Slide plank under pre-cut door frame.
-
Tap the long side joint closed first. Then tap the end joint closed.
Installation Around Fixed Objects (such as Pipes) -
Allow 3/8″ expansion space around pipes or other fixed objects.
Care and Cleaning
Place felt floor protectors under legs of moveable furniture. Chair casters
should be rubber – not plastic or metal. Place walk-off mats at entrances.
Dust mop or damp mop only. NO wet mopping. If needed, use a solution of 1 cup
of vinegar per gallon of water OR 1/3 cup non-siding ammonia per gallon of
water. Do not use abrasive cleaners, detergents, soaps, waxes or polishes.
Use correct hard surface vacuum tools. DO NOT use rotating beater bars, floor
scrubbers, steamers, jet mops or similar products. DO NOT allow liquids to
stand on the floor. Wipe up spills immediately. DO NOT allow moisture to be on
the floor for longer than 30 minutes.
PERGO XP Laminate Flooring on Wall Install Instructions
Although originally designed as a durable floor covering, many consumers have
started using Pergo laminate flooring on walls to give their rooms more
character and to create a feature or accent wall.
Laminate can be utilized as a decorative covering over an existing clean, dry,
secure and vertical wall that meets building codes. The wall substrate should
be primed or painted drywall (gypsum board) only. Do not install directly over
wallpaper or paneling. Laminate is not intended to be used on ceilings,
countertops or as any type of structural material.
The installation wall should only run vertical to the floor. Sloping walls and
surfaces that are parallel to the floor, such as ceilings or soffits, should
not be selected. Limit installations to a maximum of 40 feet in length and a
maximum of 1 plank length in height.
Laminate is suitable for an accent wall when used in climate controlled
(35-65% RH and 60-85° F) indoor installations only. Acclimate unopened product
lying flat in the room where it is to be installed for at least 48 hours. Mix
planks from different cartons as you install to maximize the natural
appearance.
Check wall for moisture, visible water stains or leaking windows. Do not
install laminate over a wall with known moisture damage. Do not install in
areas near water sources such as a backsplash over a sink or bathtub.
Acceptable job site conditions, including relative humidity and wall moisture
conditions, must be maintained throughout the life of the laminate
application.
Check wall for flatness within 3/16″ over 10 feet. Correct any unevenness
before installing to allow the laminate planks to lie flat without rocking.
The following requirements are not intended to supersede federal, state or
local building codes, but as with many other interior finish products, may
require modifying existing structural components for successful installation.
Owner assumes responsibility for compliance with all building codes, including
maintaining the required distance from heat sources such as fireplaces.
WARNING: For a safe and secure installation, this product MUST be
installed in accordance with these installation instructions.
Tools Required for Installation:
- Caulk gun
- Utility knife
- Stud finder (electronic)
- Carpenters level or laser level
- Chalk line
- 18 gauge brand nail guin (electric or air)
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Screw gun or drill driver (for horizontal installation only)
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask
- Gloves
Materials Required for Installation:
- 11/2″ – 13/4″ brad nails
- 100% silicone adhesive caulk (clear)
- 11/2″ – 13/4″ dry wall screws (for horizontal installation only)
- Painters tape (for horizontal installation only)
Other Tools and Materials:
- Step ladder (for horizontal installation only)
- Hammer
- Uniclic® appropriate tapping block
- Pull bar
- Saw for cutting laminate planks
- Pry bar (for removing existing base or trim)
- Chair rail (for vertical installation only), wall base and quarter round moldings (to fame out accent wall)
PERGO XP Vertical Wainscot Style Wall Install Instructions
-
Measure the length of your laminate plank and the length of the wall area to determine the total square footage area. Order that amount of flooring plus an additional 10% for incorrect cuts.
-
Remove all base and trim from accent wall. Measure from the floor a distance equal to your laminate plank plus one inch then level and mark the wall with a chalk line. With an electronic stud finder locate and mark wall studs. (Figure 1)
-
Turn off power while working around wall outlets and light switches. Pay special attention to avoid contact with electrical wiring.
-
Inspect each plank for damage before installing. (Figure 1a) Do not install damaged planks. You can use laminate planks with or without an attached pad. There is no need to remove the pad, so treat the installation the same for both types of planks.
-
Start from the left side with the short side tongue up and long side groove toward the wall. Place one plank against the wall and align at the top to test fit. You will want a 1″ gap at the bottom of the plank. (Figure 2a)
-
Determine the appropriate number of vertical planks to fill the wall. For the best appearance, the first and last planks should be approximately the same width. Cut them as needed based on the width of your installation and the width of your planks.
-
If you don’t need to cut the first plank, remove lower extension of long side groove with saw or utility knife. (Figure 2b)
-
Apply silicone adhesive to the back side of the plank in an “S” pattern. If you’re using a laminate plank with an attached pad, apply the silicone directly to the pad on the back of the plank. (Figure 3)
-
Adhere the plank to the wall leaving a 3/16″ gap (A) from the corners of the wall and a 1″ gap (B) at bottom. Drive brad nails 1/2″ from the top and bottom of each plank to secure to wall. Place nails where the trim will cover.
-
Continue with the installation for each subsequent plank by first applying silicone adhesive to the back side of the plank in an “S” pattern. Then angle the groove over the tongue of the previous plank and wiggle into place. Tighten joints as needed with a tapping block or pull bar. Finally, drive brad nails 1/2” from the top and bottom of each plank to secure to wall. Place nails where the trim will cover. Be sure to drive the brad nails into a stud whenever possible. (Figure 4)
-
Finish wainscot accent to ending wall. (Figure 5)
-
Install trim (chair rail) over the top edge. Install quarter round in the corners. Finish by installing the baseboard of your choice. (Figure 6)
-
Measure the length and width of the wall area to determine the total square footage area. Order that amount of flooring plus an additional 10% for incorrect cuts.
-
Remove baseboards from the accent wall and locate the wall studs using the stud finder tool. Mark vertical lines over all studs. Use painters tape to extend stud location to ceiling if needed. (Figure 1)
-
Turn off power while working around wall outlets and light switches. Pay special attention to avoid contact with electrical wiring.
-
Inspect each plank for damage before installing. (Figure 1a) Do not install damaged planks. You can use laminate planks with or without an attached pad. There is no need to remove the pad, so treat the installation the same for both types of planks.
-
Lay the planks on the floor with the décor side up and the groove side toward the wall. Assemble the short ends of the planks together and measure length to fit the first row (bottom).
-
Cut the last piece as needed leaving a 3/16” gap against any adjoining walls, if applicable, and click it into place. (Figure 2)
NOTE: You may need to adjust placement of the first plank row to account for any floor unevenness so that the first row is perfectly straight and all end joints remain square and tight. -
Carefully flip the connected row of planks over so the décor side is now face down and the tongue side is toward the wall. You may need assistance to flip the connected row of planks over, depending on the length of your installation. Make sure that the first row is perfectly straight and the aligned joints remain square and tight. Apply a bead of 100% silicone adhesive caulk to the back side of each laminate plank in the first row. If you’re using a laminate plank with an attached pad apply silicone directly onto the pad on the back of the plank. (Figure 3)
-
Carefully tilt the row of connected planks against the wall with the tongue side toward the floor, re-level and press to the wall. (Figure 3a)
-
Drive a brad nail into each plank at each wall stud through the shallow area of the extended groove (see inset diagram). Take care that the brad nail heads are not raised, but also don’t force them all the way through the groove. This will allow easy connection of the next row of planks. You must also place drywall screws every 16” into the wall studs or sill plate along the bottom edge of the first row of planks where they will be covered by the wall base. (Figure 4)
-
Start the second row from the right side. Cut and glue with silicone adhesive caulk the first plank. Fit plank by angling tongue into groove and wiggle into place. Use tapping block as needed. Drive a brad nail into each plank through the shallow area of the extended groove at each wall stud. (Figure 5)
NOTE: A joint “stagger” of 8 to 12 inches looks most natural. Avoid allowing plank ends to align. -
Plank 2 of row 2 (and each plank thereafter in row 2) will be modified by removing the short end tongue. Score the tongue with a utility knife 3 – 4 times to remove. You will now have a square end. (Figure 6)
-
Apply silicone adhesive caulk in an “S” pattern and install modified boards by tilting into place. Tighten joints as needed with a tapping block or pull bar. Drive a brad nail into each plank through the shallow area of the extended groove at each wall stud. (Figure 7)
-
Repeat this process for each plank working your way up to the last row. (Figure 8)
-
For the last row of the installation, use painters tape to mark the stud location for brad nailing. Cut all planks in the last row to the required width to complete the installation. Complete the installation as you have the earlier rows. (Figure 8a)
-
Use quarter round for inside corners and ceiling. Finish with wall base board of your choice. (Figure 9)
Care and Cleaning
Dry wipe as primary cleaning method. Occasionally damp wipe with water only.
NO wet washing. If needed, use 1 cup of vinegar per gallon of water OR 1/3 cup
non- siding ammonia per gallon of water. DO NOT use detergents, abrasive
cleaners, soaps, waxes or polishes. Wipe off spills immediately. DO NOT allow
moisture to remain on the product surface for longer than 30 minutes.
DO NOT attach objects such as pictures, shelves or television mounts directly
to the laminate wall. DO NOT apply adhesive backed hooks or install screws or
nails into the laminate wall for hanging objects. Instead, drill clearance
holes through the laminate and mount these objects directly to wall studs with
screws or nails. Drill the clearance holes through the laminate at least ¼”
larger than the diameter of the fastener that will be used.
Precautionary Measures
Power tools should be equipped with a dust collector. If high dust level are
encountered use an appropriate NIOSH designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact
with skin and eyes. First Aid Measures in case of irritations: In case of
irritation flush eyes and skin with water for at least 15 minutes.
ATTN: Installers Caution: Wood Dust
Sawing, sanding and machining wood products can produce wood dust. Airborne
wood dust cause respiratory, skin and eye irritation. The International Agency
for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen
in humans.
IMPORTANT HEALTH NOTICE FOR MINNESOTA RESIDENTS ONLY:
THESE BUILDING MATERIALS EMIT FORMALDEHYDE. EYE, NOSE, AND THROAT IRRITATION,
HEADACHE NAUSEA AND A VARIETY OF ASTHMA-LIKE SYMPTOMS, INCLUDING SHORTNESS OF
BREATH, HAVE BEEN REPORTED AS A RESULT OF FORMALDEHYDE EXPOSURE. ELDERLY
PERSONS AND YOUNG CHILDREN, AS WELL AS ANYONE WITH A HISTORY OF ASTHMA,
ALLERGIES, OR LUNG PROBLEMS, MAY BE AT GREATER RISK. RESEARCH IS CONTINUING ON
THE POSSIBLE LONG-TERM EFFECTS OF EXPOSURE TO FORMALDEHYDE. REDUCED
VENTILATION MAY ALLOW FORMALDEHYDE AND OTHER CONTAMINANTS TO ACCUMULATE IN THE
INDOOR AIR. HIGH INDOOR TEMPERATURES AND HUMIDITY RAISE FORMALDEHYDE LEVELS.
WHEN A HOME IS TO BE LOCATED IN AREAS SUBJECT TO EXTREME SUMMER TEMPERATURES,
AN AIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEM CAN BE USED TO CONTROL INDOOR TEMPERATURE LEVELS.
OTHER MEANS OF CONTROLLED MECHANICAL VENTICLATION CAN BE USED TO REDUCE LEVELS
OF FORMALDEHYDE AND OTHER INDOOR AIR CONTAMINANTS. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS
REGARDING THE HEALTH EFFECTS OF FORMALDEHYDE, CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR OR CALL
LOCAL HEALTH DEPARTMENTS.
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>