JEGS InVision Ford Mustang 1967 and 1968 Direct Fit Digital Dash Speed Meter Instructions
- June 9, 2024
- JEGS
Table of Contents
- InVision Ford Mustang 1967 and 1968 Direct Fit Digital Dash Speed Meter
- What is Included
- WARRANTY
- Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
- Download This Manual (PDF format)
- 5291 3-wire Hall Effect speed sender. GM and Chrysler Style. This is a pass through unit and can be used if your vehicle still has cable operated cruise control. It can still be used as a stand alone unit if you no longer use a cable.
- 5292 3-wire Hall Effect speed sender. Ford Style. This is a pass through unit and can be used if your vehicle still has cable operated cruise control. It can still be used as a stand alone unit if you no longer use a cable.
- 5293 2-wire Sine Wave speed sender (generator). This is a more economical unit, and does not provide as many pulses as the 5291, and does not require power to operate. Only signal and ground.
- 5289 GPS Interface Module. This works great if you have a situation where your transmission has no mechanical output, or no existing speed sender. This simply requires power & ground, and has a signal output. The included GPS antenna is magnetic, and can be mounted inside the vehicle, or outside.
- 5284 LS Install Kit. If you are performing an installation with an LS based engine, you can order this kit for the needed adapters, and LS specific instructions.
- 9123 LS Tach Adapter Kit. Sometimes with the LS conversion, the tachometer signal becomes lost. This kit will allow you to install a tachometer adapter, and is specifically designed to plug into the factory LS ignition harnesses located at the center of each valve cover.
- 9117 Tachometer Adapter. This can be wired in by the installer if the above 9123 will not work for your application.
- 3227 -4an Braided Stainless Steel Hose Kit. This is a 3’ long hose kit that some would use to relocate their oil pressure sender in the event that you want to mount it off of the engine elsewhere. Other lengths are also available.
2650-2059-77 Rev. A
InVision ®
Ford Mustang, 1967 & 1968
Direct Fit Digital Dash
InVision Ford Mustang 1967 and 1968 Direct Fit Digital Dash Speed Meter
What is Included
Preassembled Mustang Dash with Digital Gauge Display
& Universal Wire Harness
Oil pressure Sending Unit
Temperature Sending Unit
(2) Inline Fuse Holders
3A Fuse
5A Fuse
NOTE: It is highly recommended that the main 12v key on power wire (longer red wire) be protected with a standard automotive 5A inline fuse. Not doing so, may lead to damage not covered under warranty.
Recommended Tools & Supplies:
T10 & T20 Torx bits and/or screwdrivers
Screwdriver set (including both flathead & Phillips)
¼” drive standard & metric socket set
3/8” drive standard & metric socket set
Standard & Metric open end wrenches
Wire strippers
Wire crimpers
Your choice of wire splice connectors, or solder, or heat shrink for
connecting wires to your vehicle harness.
Your choice of wire coverings for neatly organizing or bundling wires.
Zip ties (small or medium) for neatly organizing or bundling wires.
Wire diagram of your vehicle
General automotive electrical knowledge
Soldering iron, solder, various sizes of heat shrink tubing
Digital volt/ohm meter
OIl pressure switch socket, if you still have an original style oil PSI switch
Ford style oil pressure extension pipe if using 289, 302, or 351W
Step 1, Removal
It is recommended to turn the power on and take note of where the fuel level
gauge reads (if it works) prior to removal of the factory dash.
Once the fuel level is noted, disconnect the battery.
To make removal of the cluster easier, there are 1, possibly 2 speedo cable
retention clips under the car. Removal of these will make pulling the cluster
out much easier. Then back inside the vehicle, remove the radio bezel, which
will give you easy access to the back of the right side of the cluster bezel
to reach and remove two hidden fasteners from behind. After that, remove all
of the exterior cluster bezel screws. and then you can pull the cluster out
towards you. Be sure to keep the screws that you removed, as they will be re-
used during the InVision® dash installation..
Next reach behind the back of the original instrument cluster, and disconnect
the speedometer cable. This removes by un-threading the retention nut at the
back of the speedometer , on the cable end.
Lastly, disconnect the instrument cluster electrical connector(s) at the back
of the instrument cluster. You should now be able to carefully, pull the
cluster bezel out of the vehicle.
You may now completely remove your factory speedometer cable from the vehicle
as this is no longer used with your new InVision® Dash.
Step 2, Wiring:
Although the dash comes assembled, the wiring will take a little time,
therefore it is easier to disconnect the wiring harness from the rear of the
new dash display.
You may now disconnect the harness from the rear of the display, and remove
the selector knob from the rear of the front bezel, by removing the two screws
from the selector knob. This way you have more room to work as you do your
wiring, without having the new dash in the way. Push down on the blue locking
tab, so that you can pull the pink latch all the up, and over as shown in the
pictures below. The connector will then easily pull out. Later installation is
in the reverse order, except that you don’t have to push the locking tab to
install (you do still have to secure the pink latch).
You can then remove the Selector Knob from the rear of the panel by removing
the two T10 Torx screws.
Wiring will require some basic knowledge of automotive electrical, and in some
cases a vehicle specific wiring diagram, or the ability to test circuits to
verify proper hook ups. You will need to be able to test various circuits at
this time, so go ahead and temporarily re-install the headlamp switch knob &
shaft into the switch, then plug the switch into its wire harness connector so
that you can reconnect the battery. Simply push the switch knob & shaft into
place, and most times you will feel a slight click when you get it installed
all the way. You will find the following wire colors on your new Digital Dash.
There are several different methods of connection that you can use when
connecting the new dash wires to your existing wiring:
Gray: Dash Lights. Connect to factory dash lighting wire. Look for a
power that turns on and off with the parking lights and or head lights, but
also dims (power lowers) as you adjust your headlight dimmer. A test light
works well for checking this. If by chance you have a faulty dimming circuit
in your vehicle, you can use any of the wires from your headlight switch that
turn on & off with the park lights. The factory dimmer is not used by your new
dash. More on the functionality of this later in step 4 of this instruction.
On our subject vehicle, we found the dash lights wire to be light blue with a
red stripe.
Red (4 foot): 12v, key on power. Connect to factory gauges power only if
it is 12v. This power should turn on and off with the ignition switch. If no
factory wire to use, you may either find an ignition power from the fuse box,
or from the ignition switch. It is highly recommended that this be protected
with a standard automotive 5A inline fuse. Not doing so, may lead to damage
not covered under warranty. On our subject vehicle, we found the key on power
wire to be black with a green trace. Use a volt meter to make sure it is about
12v, with key on.
Pink: Battery power, for memory retention. You may connect this to any
constant-on, battery power such as at the factory fuse box, the ignition
switch, or to the battery direct. You may check for power at these locations
by leaving the key switched off, and using your test light to locate power
that is still on. It is highly recommended that this be protected with a
standard automotive 3A inline fuse. Not doing so, may lead to damage not
covered under warranty.
Black (4 foot): System ground. We recommend to choose a new ground
location for this wire, preferably at the engine. You may ground to the rear
of one of the cylinder heads, or on the intake manifold to one of the unused
accessory bolt holes. We do NOT recommend using existing, factory cluster
ground as this is going to be a much older circuit, which may no longer be a
very clean ground.
Green w/ Red stripe: Hi Beam indicator. Connect to factory hi beam
indicator wire or to hi beam switch. This circuit will be powered only when
the headlights are on, and high beams are on. On our subject vehicle, we found
the Hi Beam indicator wire to be a light green with a black trace.
Blue w/ white stripe: Left turn indicator. Connect to factory left turn
indicator wire. You may test for this with a test light, with the key on, with
left turn signal on and look for a wire that flashes your test light with the
turn signals. On our subject vehicle, we found the left turn signal wire to be
a light green with a white trace wire.
Blue w/ Red stripe: Right turn indicator. Connect to factory right turn
indicator wire. You may test for this with a test light, with the key on, with
right turn signal on and look for a wire that flashes your test light with the
turn signals. On our subject vehicle, we found the right turn signal wire to
be an orange with blue trace wire, although you may find it to be white with a
blue trace.
Red (2 foot): 12v key on power. This is intended for applications
where you might be using a 3-wire vehicle speed sensor that requires power.
You should find that this wire is powered any time that the digital dash is
powered. You may also use this to power a GPS interface module, or some other
accessory as desired as long as it fits within the recommended fuse
requirements.
Green w/ white stripe: Temperature sender wire. Run this out to the
engine bay, to where you will install the AutoMeter temperature sender.
Violet: Speed signal. Connect this to the signal wire at your speed
sender/sensor. If you are using a computer (ECM, PCM, ECU, etc), you may
connect this to the factory speed signal wire at the computer instead of the
speed sensor if it is equipped. Consult a diagram for your computer to verify.
Brown: Oil PSI sender wire. Run this out to the engine bay, to where you
will install the AutoMeter oil pressure sender.
Green: Tachometer signal wire. Where you connect this will depend on what
ignition system you have. If your engine is distributor equipped, with no
ignition box, you may then connect to the negative side of the ignition coil.
If you are using an after market ignition box, you will connect the white wire
to the dedicated tachometer signal output wire. NOT to the ignition coil. If
your application has no distributor, or ignition box and is using coil packs
you may have an available tachometer signal at your computer. If you have
questions on this, please call our tech support team at (866)-248-6357.
Black (2 foot): There are two of these supplied. One of these can be
used if you have a speed sensor/sender that requires a supplied ground. If you
have a speed sensor that is already existing/functioning that is already
grounded or is grounded by a computer, then this wire is not needed. If you
need to supply ground to your speed sender/sensor, then connect this black
wire to the ground wire of your speed sender/sensor. The 2nd extra black wire
can be used if needed, to run to your fuel tank, or fuel sender mounting
flange, to provide a good ground for your fuel sender. If your previous fuel
gauge & sender were functioning, and your sender is already grounded
elsewhere, or through the tank, running an additional ground may not be
needed. These 2 black wires are spliced together in the wire harness,
therefore it does not matter which is used. If neither is used, we recommend
that you simply ground them to a good chassis ground within the vehicle
Orange: Fuel sender wire. Connect to the original fuel sender wire, which
is yellow with a white trace. To be sure, you may use a digital ohm meter to
test which wire is correct. To determine the correct wire, set your ohm meter
to its lowest setting (most commonly 200, with no K or M suffix). Connect the
positive lead of the meter to the wire you are going to test. Ground the meter
negative lead. You are looking for something that resembles the fuel level
reading prior to original dash removal. Example, the factory sender is 73 to
10 ohms. If the tank was at or near E, you might see 75 to 50 ohms. If the
tank was at half tank, the reading would be about 25 ohms. If the tank was at
Full, the reading would be near 8-10 ohms. The fuel level sender simply varies
from 73 to 10 based on the amount of fuel there is. If the factory fuel gauge
did NOT function, you may have further diagnosis to do, to test the sender in
the tank, the sender ground, and the sender wire itself.
You may call AutoMeter tech support for further assistance on this if needed.
Brown w/ white stripe: Service Engine Soon Indicator. Not all
applications will use this. This is only used if you are using an engine
management system that has a grounded output for a Service Engine Soon light.
**Six pin connector. For future expansion. *See Image on page 11.
Now is a good time to plug your harness into the new dash display, and turn
power on to make sure all of your wiring is good, and to become familiar with
the dash. Remember you still have senders to connect outside of the interior
at this point.
We will cover Set Up details later, though for now, simply make sure that your
dash powers up and that turn signals and hi beam indicator (when lights are
on) function.
Next, prepare the front bezel for installation. This will include installing
the wiper switch into the bezel, as well as any other components that were
mounted in the original bezel panel.
Installation:
Now it is time to install the new bezel. You will have to reattach the
previously removed selector knob, and plug in & latch the new wire harness to
the rear of the new display panel.
Install the panel onto the metal dash structure. You will reuse the screws
that you previously removed earlier when taking the old dash apart.
We recommend that you get all the screws started, but keep them loose, until
all screws are successfully started. Then you may go ahead, and tighten the
screws.
Step 3, Senders:
Water temperature: This dash must use the included AutoMeter sender that was
sent with your digital dash. If you are running a small, or big block Ford V8
or an inline 6, the included sender and adapter bushings will work, you may
use the intake manifold temperature sender hole. Most Fords use 3/8″NPT, which
an adapter bushing is included.
You may now connect the Green wire with White stripe from the new dash to the
temperature sender.
Oil Pressure: This dash must use the included AutoMeter sender that was sent
with your digital dash. If you are running a small, or big block Ford V8, or
an inline 6, the included sender and adapter bushings will work. Ford uses
1/4″NPT, which an adapter bushing is included.
However on 289, 302, and 351W, a factory Ford style of oil pressure extension
pipe may be needed to clear the fuel pump. Or you may use a hardware store
1/4″NPT pipe nipple, with a 45 or 90 degree, 1/4″NPT elbow.
You may now connect the Brown sender wire from the new dash to the oil
pressure sender.
| |
---|---|---
Stock Oil PSI switch shown on 302.| 1/4″ NPT extension pipe with 90 degree
fitting installed.| Oil pressure sender installed into the 1/4″NPT extension.
Fuel Level: This kit is designed to function with a variety of different fuel senders. The preset range of this dash is 0-90 ohms. If you have a different range of sender, you will need to adjust the settings in the dash to accommodate the sender you have. This dash is compatible with the following senders.
- Ford up to 1987 (some up to 1985) used 73 ohms @ Empty and 10 ohms @ Full. NON-LINEAR (originals are non-linear)
- Ford up to 1987 (some up to 1985) used 73 ohms @ Empty and 10 ohms @ Full. LINEAR (aftermarket, and many restoration replacements are linear).
- Ford 1987 and later (through mid 2000’s) used 16 ohms @ Empty, and 158 ohms @ Full
- Chrysler up through late 80’s (some a little longer) also used 73 ohms @ Empty and 10 ohms @ Full
- GM 1965 to 1996 used 0 ohms @ Empty, and 90 ohms @ Full
- GM 1964 & earlier used 0 ohms @ Empty, and 30 ohms @ Full. We have found a few 1965 Chevy trucks still using 0-30.
- GM 1997 & later used 40 ohms @ Empty, and 250 ohms @Full
- Universal AutoMeter (and some 1940’s and earlier domestics) used 240 ohms @ Empty, and 33 ohms @ Full. For this possible sender, if measuring with an ohm meter, you may have to adjust your resistance range to the next setting above 200 if your meter is not auto ranging.
Speed Sensor/Sender: This sender was not included in your kit, as many
users may already have an existing speed sender due to using a late model
drivetrain, or had a pre-existing electric speedometer.
If your vehicle still depended on the factory speedometer cable that you
removed earlier in this dash install, you may then use the AutoMeter model
number 5292 speed sender. You need to transfer the gear off of your original
cable, and transfer it to the new speed sender in this case. You would connect
the red from the speed sender to the 2 foot red dash wire. Connect the black
speed sender wire to the black 2 foot dash wire. Connect the white speed
sender wire to the violet dash wire.
If you had a pre-existing 2-wire speed sender that was being used for an
electric speedometer, you may connect one wire of this speed sender to the 2
foot black wire from the dash. Then connect the other wire of the speed sender
to the violet wire from the dash. Many times the polarity of the 2 wire speed
sender is non-polarity sensitive. Though if you had a black wire, that one is
typically ground, and the other (such as white, tan, violet, green, etc.. is
typically signal. If both were the same color, then it will not matter.
If you are using a factory late model drivetrain which uses its own speed
sender, you will then use the factory speed-out wire/circuit, typically
supplied by the late model computer.
Start the engine: Check to make sure you are registering oil pressure, water
temperature (as it warms up), volts, fuel level, and RPM. You will need to
calibrate & drive the vehicle for speedometer function. Also check for any
leaks at this time.
Step 4, Set up:
This dash comes equipped with a button/knob referred to as the “Selector
Knob”. To enter the dash menu, simply push & release the Selector Knob one
time. The menu will appear. The knob also turns slightly left or right. Use
the left or right motion to scroll through the menu. Think of pushing &
releasing the knob as an “Enter” command.
If you attempt to enter the menu while driving (vehicle in motion), you will
only get a partial menu. For full menu, you must be stopped. Engine can be
running or not, just as long as power is turned on. Full Menu shown in below
pictures.
Warnings This dash provides an audible and visual warning for certain
parameters.
Fuel Level is non-adjustable, and comes as warning at around 1/8 tank. You can
however disable the warning if you choose.
Oil pressure can be adjusted to warn at 4, 8, or 18PSI. This can also simply
be disabled.
Water temp can be adjusted to warn at 220, 235, or 250 degrees. This can also
simply be disabled.
Volt Meter can be adjusted to warn at 11.5, 12.2, or 15.0 volts. This can also
simply be disabled.
To adjust, or disable, enter into the Main Menu, then scroll to the gauge you
want to adjust (we will show oil pressure here), and press Enter.
Scroll back to the value you wish to set it to, and press Enter.
To exit, you may now scroll up to Back and press Enter.
Once you are finished adjusting your warnings, and you are back in the Main
Menu, simply scroll back to the top until Close is highlighted, and press
Enter.
Tachometer PPR (Pulse Calibration) This is the tachometer calibration. PPR
stands for pulses per revolution. A standard V8 with a distributor type
ignition system will be 4ppr. This is also the standard setting for the dash.
If you have an in line 6, your setting would be 3ppr. And if you have updated
your drivetrain to an LS type engine and are using a factory PCM, the PCM
tachometer output is actually 2ppr.
To adjust PPR, enter into the Main Menu. Scroll to Tachometer, and press
Enter. Next, scroll to Pulse Calibration, and press Enter.
Once you have chosen the correct PPR, simply scroll up to Back, and press
Enter. Then, scroll up to Back again, and press Enter. Next, once you are back
into the Main Menu, scroll to Close and press Enter.
Tachometer Scaling The standard scale is 0-10,000 RPM, though you can adjust
the tachometer scale to be 0-8,000 RPM if desired.
To adjust the scaling, enter into the Main Menu. Scroll to Tachometer, and
press Enter. Next, scroll to RPM and press Enter. Now you can choose from
either 8000, or 10000 RPM Scale. Scroll to the desired scale, and press Enter.
Once you have chosen the Tachometer Scaling, simply scroll up to Back, and
press Enter. Then, scroll to the top until Back and press Enter.
Next, once you are back into the Main Menu, scroll up to Close and press
Enter.
Speedometer Calibration Speedometer calibration will be required for an
accurate speedometer reading. You will need a 2 mile pre-marked distance.
To calibrate the speedometer, Enter into the Main Menu, then scroll to
Speedometer and press Enter. Next, scroll to Speed Calibration, and press
Enter.
Drive to the beginning of your 2 mile distance (this could be at your
driveway, or elsewhere). Choose Start Calibration and press Enter. The display
will now show “Stop Calibration” (don’t press Enter yet). Now drive 2 miles.
At the end of 2 miles, you will come to a stop, and press Enter on Stop
Calibration.
*You technically do not have to come to a complete stop when pressing Stop Calibration, though it helps to insure that you have a more accurate 2 mile distance by stopping. The more accurate your 2 miles are, the more accurate your speedometer will be.
If speed sender/sensor is functioning, and your calibration successful, you may now scroll up to Back, and press Enter, then on the Speedometer Menu, scroll up to Back, press Enter, then on the Main Menu, scroll up to Close and press Enter.
Fuel gauge set up If you are running a 0-90 fuel sender, there is no further
set up required regarding the fuel gauge. This step can then be skipped.
You have 7 different fuel sensor ranges to select from, select the one that
matches your vehicles fuel sender and press enter. Once you have chosen the
correct sensor range, scroll up to Back, and press Enter. Once you are back at
the Main Menu, scroll to Close and press Enter.
Time You may set the time as a standard 12 hour clock, or a 24 hour clock.
To adjust the time, enter into the Main Menu, then scroll to Time, and press
Enter. Here you can scroll to 12, or 24 hour mode, and click Enter, but you
can also adjust the time here. Once you have “Entered” on 12 hour, or 24 hour
mode, you can then scroll to the hours (left) segments and click Enter. You
then scroll the numbers up or down by turning the Selector knob left or right.
Press Enter, then scroll to the right to highlight the minutes (right)
segments. You then scroll the numbers up or down by turning the Selector knob
left or right. Press Enter. Once you are finished, scroll to “OK” and press
Enter. This returns you to the main menu.
Display You have 3 different display types to choose from. To choose the display style, enter into the Main Menu, scroll to Display, and press Enter. Then scroll to which number display you want, and press Enter.
Display One
Display Two
Display Three
Display Four
If you choose Display three, you also have a choice of colors. Display one, two, and four do not have a choice of colors. When you choose Display three, and press Enter the unit will go to Display three, then to access the color options, Enter into the main menu again, choose Display, then scroll to Display three (which will already be in bold white), and press Enter. Now the color options will come up (there are two pages of color options). Scroll to the desired color and press Enter.
To Exit, simply scroll up to Back, and press Enter., then scroll up to Back on the Display menu, and press Enter, then scroll up to Close on the Main menu and press Enter.
Brightness You will no longer adjust brightness with the factory dash light
dimmer. Once power is applied from the lighting to the dash, it will
automatically dim down to the brightness as adjusted by the dash via the
Selector Knob. You can adjust daytime brightness, as well as night time
brightness.
To adjust the brightness, enter into the main menu, then scroll down until you
reach Brightness, and press Enter. Once you are in the Brightness settings,
scroll down one time for Daytime settings and press Enter. You may now scroll
left of right to choose the percentage of brightness.
When you are satisfied, press Enter then scroll down one time again for
Nighttime and press Enter. You can again scroll left or right for the
percentage of brightness desired. *When adjusting Nighttime, you should have
the vehicles lights turned on.
When finished adjusting Nighttime, press Enter, then scroll up to Back, and
press Enter. Then scroll up to Close to exit the Main menu.
Odometer The odometer can be set to match your factory mileage on your
vehicle. This can only be done one time, and within the first 500 miles. After
being set, or 500 miles have been accumulated, this option will disappear. It
can not be set again.
To set your odometer, enter into the Main Menu, scroll to Speedometer, and
push Enter. When in the Speedometer Menu, scroll down to Set Odometer and
press Enter. Now you will be in the Odometer Value screen. Scroll down to the
odometer digits. When you get to the particular digit that you want to change,
press Enter, then scroll up or down with the Selector Knob until you get to
the desired digit, and press Enter.
Once you have the odometer reading you desire, and have pushed Enter on the last digit, you can then scroll down to Enter Value and press Enter. The Dash will ask you “Are you sure?”. You have the option to either press enter on OK, or scroll to Cancel and select Enter. This window asking you “Are you Sure?” will pop up 3 times. If you answer OK all three times, the odometer is now permanently set, and will only change by accumulating miles normally. This can not be changed again.
Trip Odometer This dash has two trip odometers, and a regular odometer. Both trips can be reset at any time by the user. To choose which Trip Odometer is displayed, Enter into the Main menu, scroll to Speedometer, and press Enter. Here, you may choose which Trip is displayed, and you may also clear (reset) the trip from this page as well. Simply scroll to which option you choose and press Enter.
Units Here you can choose Imperial, or Metric. U.S. users will generally
choose Imperial.
Other users may choose Metric, which changes your temperature to “C”, Oil
Pressure to “BAR”, Odometer to “km”, and Speedometer to “km/h”.
To change the units of measure, Enter into the Main Menu, and then scroll to
Units, and press Enter. Then choose either Imperial, or Metric by scrolling to
highlight your choice, then press Enter.
To exit, simply scroll up to Back, press Enter, then on the Min Menu, scroll
up to Close and press Enter.
System This displays the versions of firmware the unit is equipped with.
Time to enjoy your new InVision® Dash!
*** 6 Pin Connector
Not currently used, intended for future expansion.
Available Items From AutoMeter that you may want or need:
-
5291 3-wire Hall Effect speed sender. GM and Chrysler Style. This is a pass through unit and can be used if your vehicle still has cable operated cruise control. It can still be used as a stand alone unit if you no longer use a cable.
-
5292 3-wire Hall Effect speed sender. Ford Style. This is a pass through unit and can be used if your vehicle still has cable operated cruise control. It can still be used as a stand alone unit if you no longer use a cable.
-
5293 2-wire Sine Wave speed sender (generator). This is a more economical unit, and does not provide as many pulses as the 5291, and does not require power to operate. Only signal and ground.
-
5289 GPS Interface Module. This works great if you have a situation where your transmission has no mechanical output, or no existing speed sender. This simply requires power & ground, and has a signal output. The included GPS antenna is magnetic, and can be mounted inside the vehicle, or outside.
-
5284 LS Install Kit. If you are performing an installation with an LS based engine, you can order this kit for the needed adapters, and LS specific instructions.
-
9123 LS Tach Adapter Kit. Sometimes with the LS conversion, the tachometer signal becomes lost. This kit will allow you to install a tachometer adapter, and is specifically designed to plug into the factory LS ignition harnesses located at the center of each valve cover.
The wire harness portion of this works for most LS applications up to 2013.
-
9117 Tachometer Adapter. This can be wired in by the installer if the above 9123 will not work for your application.
-
3227 -4an Braided Stainless Steel Hose Kit. This is a 3’ long hose kit that some would use to relocate their oil pressure sender in the event that you want to mount it off of the engine elsewhere. Other lengths are also available.
-
AutoMeter offers a variety of hose adapters that allow you to install your temperature sender into a hose directly. Available in different sizes, ranging from 5/8”, up to 1-1/2”. Model numbers 2280, 2281, 2282, & 2283.
SERVICE
For service send your product to AutoMeter in a well packed shipping carton.
Please include a note explaining what the problem is along with your phone
number. If you are sending product back for warranty adjustment, you must
include a copy (or original) of your sales receipt from the place of purchase.
WARRANTY
12 MONTH LIMITED WARRANTY
AutoMeter Products, Inc. warrants to the consumer that all AutoMeter High
Performance products purchased from an Authorized AutoMeter Reseller will be
free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of twelve (12)
months from date of the original purchase. Products that fail within this 12
month warranty period will be repaired or replaced at AutoMeter’s option, when
determined by AutoMeter that the product failed due to defects in material or
workmanship. This warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of parts in
the AutoMeter High Performance product and the necessary labor done by
AutoMeter to effect the repair or replacement of the AutoMeter High
Performance product. In no event shall AutoMeter’s cost to repair or replace
an AutoMeter High Performance Product under this warranty exceed the original
purchase price of the AutoMeter High Performance Product. Nor shall AutoMeter
Products, Inc. be responsible for special, incidental or consequential damages
or costs incurred due to the failure of an AutoMeter High Performance Product.
This warranty applies only to the original purchaser of the AutoMeter High
Performance Product and is non-transferable. This warranty also applies only
to AutoMeter High Performance Products purchased from an Authorized AutoMeter
Reseller. All implied warranties shall be limited in duration to the said 12
month warranty period. Breaking the instrument seal, improper use or
installation, accident, water damage, abuse, unauthorized repairs or
alterations voids this warranty. AutoMeter disclaims any liability for
consequential damages due to the breach of any written or implied warranty on
all products manufactured by AutoMeter Products, Inc. For a comprehensive
listing of Un-Authorized AutoMeter Resellers please visit
www.autometer.com/autometerlocator/index/unauthorized.
FOR SERVICE SEND TO: AUTOMETER PRODUCTS, INC. 413 W.
Elm St., Sycamore, IL
60178866-248-6356
For Email:Service@autometer.com
© 2022 AutoMeter Products.
Inc. 8/31/22 2650-2059-77 Rev. A