KuroTheCrazy 40rmie Invisibolt Case and PCB User Guide
- June 3, 2024
- KuroTheCrazy
Table of Contents
KuroTheCrazy 40rmie Invisibolt Case and PCB
Instructions
Welcome to the build guide for the 40rmie keyboard by me, using a case by Jake
from P3D. This keyboard is designed to use a gasket PCB mount. Plates are
optional. The main cluster for this keyboard is 13u wide, using big mods for
base kit compatibility. The board also has a half number row, a partial
function row, a navigation cluster, and an arrow cluster for full easy
functionality while keeping a 40% main typing experience.
This keyboard will require you to solder your own switches, but all other
components are
pre-soldered. You will need a phillips’ head screwdriver, a soldering iron,
and scissors or flush cutters. I would also recommend some light cloth or
rubber gloves to avoid fingerprints on your acrylic pieces while assembling
the case.
These parts should be included with the group buy kit:
- A 40rmie PCB (if ordered)
- 1 set of PCB gasket strips
- 8 case bolts (top and bottom)
- 9 acrylic layer pieces, including the feet. You may have 10 with a separate accent piece.
- 1 set of 40rmie plates (optional)
- 1 piece of case foam (optional)
- 1 set of plate foam (optional)
- Rubber or cork bumpers for the feet
- 4 sets of screws and standoffs for the feet
Depending on your chosen layout, you will also need:
- 60-65 switches (-2 if you chose WKL or HHKB blockers for your case)
- 0-2 2u pcb-mount stabilizers for mods
- Depending on your space layout:
- 2x 2u pcb-mount stabilizers for split space
- 1x 6.25u pcb-mount stabilizer for 6.25u space
- 1x 7u pcb-mount stabilizer for 7u space
If you ordered a plate set with your case, you will need all of
these:
For ease of reference, these are the supported layouts:
These are the different acrylic layers:
Now, let’s get started on building!
Installation
Step 1: Gaskets
First, take your PCB gaskets and cut them along the red lines. Try to get
these as flush along the edges as you can, but they don’t need to be
perfect.
Next, peel the back paper off of the strips and apply them to the PCB. You
should have one strip in each corner on the top and bottom sides. Each strip
has a rounded end to fit the curved corners.
PCB bottom shown here. The top should look the same for the strips.
Step 2: Stabilizers and Switches
Now is the time to put your stabilizers on the PCB. This will change depending
on your chosen layout. The bottom row of the PCB will have silkscreen labels
to help you figure out where to put your stabs for your layout.
Pictured here is an example with an ISO enter, 2.25u left shift, and 7u
spacebar.
Next, we will get the switches ready for soldering. If you aren’t using a
plate then insert them right on to the PCB. If you are using a plate, put them
in the plate and then attach them to the PCB together. If you are using a
flexy plate like PETG or IMA then I suggest putting all of your switches in
the plate first. If you ordered plate foam, put it under the plate before you
add it to the PCB.
Pictured here is the layout shown previously with an IMA plate.
From here, flip the PCB around and get to soldering! Take your time,
especially if you aren’t using a plate, to make sure each switch is sitting
flat and isn’t at an angle.
Step 3: The case
Now comes assembly. If you want to prevent fingerprints all over your case,
now is the time for gloves.
Start with getting the feet together. Insert a short screw into the bottom
accent layer from the top, then put a standoff on the other end. Repeat this
for the other three small screw spots on it. For reference, this white piece
the bottom accent layer:
Next, flip this over and align the bottom layer and feet layers over the
standoffs. Once all aligned and flat, screw the longer screws in to the
standoffs to hold the feet together. It should look like this when
done:
In this example, the bottom layer is purple and the feet are white. Flip it
over again.
Next, add the PCB case layer. This is cut thinner than the other layers and
has holes for the feet screws.
If you have PCB foam, add it over the bottom layer now. Take your assembled
PCB and rest it in with this layer.
Add two of the main center layers over the PCB. The first should have the
‘bad’ side of the acrylic facing up, and the second should have the ‘good’
side facing up.
Next add the accent layer. If you ordered an accent insert, it should rest in
with this layer – if not, it will be like the previous layer.
Finally, add your top layer. It should have a cutout over the arrow keys to
help identify it.
This is how the layers should look from the side when stacked:
Now, take your smooth bolts and insert them into the holes around the case.
You can decide if you want the smooth end on the top or bottom of the case,
but I prefer on the top. Once those are all inserted, screw the bolt screws in
from the opposite side to secure the layers together.
And that’s it! All that’s left is to add the cork or rubber feet if you did
not earlier. Congratulations on your built 40rmie. Enjoy!
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
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