TRUCOR TYMBER XL Wood Fiber Core Flooring Installation Guide

TRUCOR TYMBER XL Wood Fiber Core Flooring Installation Guide

Materials and tools

As glue is not needed to Install your wood core flooring, it makes the installation process a lot easier and quicker.

• List of tools: saw, masking tape, pencil, level, Stanley knife and hammer (preferably rubber).
• List of materials: Flooring, underlay, moldings, expansion spacers, PE 3/8″ foam backer rod and lever
  
  

Pre-installation preparation

Your wood core floor is extremely versatile and can be installed in all areas of your home, except for areas with higher levels of humidity in the environment, such as saunas, sinks, washing areas, etc. where its use is not recommended.

For installation in bathrooms and kitchens, please read Section 10 “Installing wood core flooring in kitchens and bathrooms”.

The product needs to be stabilized 48 hours prior to use with the boxes unopened and stored horizontally, well away from any walls.

The room temperature should be around 65º – 75º F and the humidity between 50% – 70% (the same as the room where it is going to be installed).While the product is stabilizing, do no open the boxes or lean them against a wall, and do not leave any floor boards out. Before installation, ensure that the base floor is clean and dry, and check that the surface conditions on which the flooring is going to be laid are optimal. If there are any uneven areas of more than 1/16″ over 3 feet, level them out in advance with a leveling paste.
Eliminate any irregularities which might cause a bad marriage between the floor board and the subfloor.

Suitable sub floors and preparation

Your floor can be installed directly over most existing floors (e.g. wood, PVC, concrete floors etc.).

• A. Cement/concrete floors. The mortar should have a humidity level of less than 2% (using the calcium carbide method or oven drying). When using artificial drying methods, sometimes only the surface layers dry and the lower layers can retain moisture which will, in time, rise to the surface. You should allow a sufficient period of time before taking new measurements to avoid any errors in the measurements taken. The drying time of the sub floor will depend on its thickness and the atmospheric conditions of the area. As a guide, you can estimate that in conditions around 68º and 50% relative humidity, drying time can be calculated using the following formula: t = 2s² where “t” is the time in days and “s” is the thickness of the sub floor in centimetres.
  

• B. Wooden floor. In this case, the flooring will be laid at a 90º angle from the old flooring, never in the same direction as the old floor boards. With existing wooden sub floors, it is recommended to remove a small perimeter from the old flooring to properly ventilate the strips.
  

• C. Wooden floor boards or similar. When laying flooring over wooden floor boards, you must leave enough space between the boards and the wall to allow for expansion (following the manufacturer’s recommendations). The flooring must be laid so that the gaps between the old floor boards are not in the same place as the joints between the wood core floor boards. Wood or wood-based materials must have a maximum residual humidity of 11%.
  

• D. Plaster. Plaster or plaster-based floors should have a maximum humidity level of less than 0.5% (using the calcium carbide method or oven drying).
  

• E. Carpet. In the case of carpet, you need to remove it (including the old glue) and make sure that the surface is flat and clean.
  

• F. Under-floor heating. Your wood core flooring can be laid over under-floor heating, following these instructions.
  See Section 11 “Installation in rooms with under-floor heating”.
  

• G. 3 season interior spaces and glazed areas. If the sub floor is directly over the subsoil and in a glazed area, it is recommended that you put 10 mm or 3/8″ expanded polythene film with a density of at least 35 kg/m3 or 2.2 lb/cu ft in order to protect the product from sudden and successive temperature changes due to the cooling caused by the humidity of the sub floor and the heat from the sun.
  

Underlay placement

To level the sub floor and for soundproofing and insulation against moisture, ALWAYS USE AN UNDERLAY.

All base floors (concrete, parquet etc.) over which the wood core flooring is to be laid require an underlay with an anti-moisture barrier made of plastic sheeting of a minimum thickness of 6 mil. Using an underlay that does not have this protection against moisture will invalidate the terms of the warranty.

Place the underlay in strips as required. If you were to lay the underlay as one big sheet, it might get damaged during the installation and therefore lose its insulating qualities. The sheets should be installed overlapping each other by at least 8 inches, or by 4 inches when securing the sheets together with >=1.75″ wide adhesive tape; and it should be laid so that it covers the entire floor area and rides up the walls by 2 inch (this will be cut when installing the base board.

Orientation of the pieces

It is recommended to lay the flooring in the same direction as the main source of light.

In corridors, it should be installed longitudinally, never sideways.
It is recommended to measure the room widthways, across the area where you are intending to lay the flooring, subtracting 3/4″ for the lateral expansion gaps. You then divide this figure by the width of a board in order to know how many rows of flooring you are going to need. The value of the decimal places multiplied by the total width will give you the size of the last board. If this figure is less than 2″, you would have to cut back the first row of boards by approximately 4″ to have enough width for the final row.

Expansion joints

Use expansion gap spacers to make sure that a gap is left between walls and columns, and the floor pieces of 3/8″ throughout the perimeter. This gap will be hidden in the end with the base board and profiles, and will give the product the space necessary for expansion and contraction. In the case of holes for pipes, measure the diameter of the pipe and make a hole 1″ bigger. Cut a section with a saw as shown in the figure and put the board in place on the floor.
Then lay the cut section in place like a jigsaw puzzle.

Likewise, when laying the flooring over a large surface area, you should also leave a 1-1/8″ expansion gap (3/8″ for the width of the clips and 3/8″ for each length, note that the base of the profile is asymmetric, although this does not affect the spaces for expansion) every 60 feet lengthways and every 60 feet widthways. For Spaces larger than 30 feet in length or width it is recommended to increase expansion by 1/16″ per 3 feet above 30 feet in each direction.

In T, L or U shaped rooms, you should also leave expansion gaps to facilitate the free movement of the material. These gaps will be hidden later with expansion profiles (also available in our range of accessories).

In doorways, a 1-1/8″ gap should be left (3/8″ for the width of the profile base and 3/8″ for each length) where the expansion profiles will be placed to separate the different rooms.

Door frames require special care as 3/8″ also needs to be left to allow for expansion.

Certain pieces of heavy furniture (bookcases, wardrobes, aquariums etc.) can also hinder expansion in either direction in the room. In case of any doubt, it is recommended that you leave bigger expansion gaps, to be later hidden with a thicker base board.

Installation of the flooring

FIRST PIECES OF THE ROWS:
Start the first row with whole boards. Start the second row with boards cut to 2/3 and the third row with boards cut to 1/3, thus giving the appropriate design flow. Never start with cuts of boards < 1 foot long. Never line up joints between rows.

FIRST PIECES OF THE FIRST ROW:
Start laying the flooring from left to right, with the ‘tongue’ facing the wall. Make sure you place the boards 3/8″ away from both walls. If the wall is irregular, the boards will need to be adapted to the contour of the wall. This is easier to do if you lay three rows of boards first, then, after cutting them to the shape of the wall, push them nearer to the wall to adapt them to its irregularities, maintaining said gap of 3/8″ along the entire contour.

LOCK IN THE SHORT END OF THE SECOND
PIECE: Place the short ends of the two pieces together (trying to leave them lined up straight), lift the piece at an angle of 15º-20º, pushing lightly forwards and downwards so that the piece automatically hooks into the adjoining piece. Continue this process until the row is finished.
Place the last board, turning it 180º and facing it on the short sides groove to groove.
Place the expansion spacer (3/8″) between the wall and the piece and mark the area where it crosses the previous piece to cut it. If this is difficult, measure the distance with a tape measure and don’t forget to subtract the 3/8″ expansion gap

CUTTING THE BOARDS:
Place the boards decor side down on the work surface and cut them with a saw.
If the saw is manual, use one with small teeth. In such case, cut the boards with the decor side facing up.

FIRST PIECE OF THE SECOND ROW:
Use a section of the board cut in the previous row.
This section must be at least 1 foot long. If it is too short, start the row with a new board cut to 1/3 the length of the piece.
Always make sure that the joints at the ends are staggered at least 1 ft.

CONTINUE LAYING THE FLOORING:

1. Place the piece flat, parallel to the board of the adjoining row, raise the board at an angle (±15º), push forwards and down lightly and the pieces should automatically interlock.
   

2. Place the short end of the board at an angle opposite the board just installed, push forwards and down lightly. Make sure that the board lengthways along the piece is close to the adjoining board, and lock it together with the previous piece.
   

3. Lift the board ±15º (along with the previous board laid in the same row), push lightly forwards and down, sliding the piece so it can lock into the length sides of the previous piece.
   

LAYING THE FINAL ROW:
Measure and cut the board. Leave 3/8″ from the wall for the necessary expansion gap.

ATTENTION: In some circumstances, it is not possible to lift the boards at an angle so they lock together (for example, underneath door frames or radiators etc.). In such cases, you can fit the pieces together with the boards flat, bearing in mind that you should not directly strike the boards, and making sure that you use the Installation Kit. Tap the pieces gently until they lock together, taking care not to damage the floor boards, and making sure that the Installation Kit hitting block is in complete contact with the edge of the flooring board. Do the same on the long side, but starting progressively at an end to move forward the length of the piece.

Moldings

To fit the expansion profile or T-molding, you should leave a 1-1/8″ or 30 mm gap (3/8″ for the width of the clips and 3/8″ for each length, note that the base of the profile is asymmetric, although this does not affect the spaces for expansion) where the expansion profiles will be placed to separate the different rooms.

Maintenance and cleaning

The surface of your flooring is protected for a long life and high wear resistance. The product is sold finished and does not need any work done on it. However, there are a number of recommendations and instructions to follow to maintain and clean it.

• The ideal conditions for avoiding problems with the boards’ dimensions and static loads are: 50-70%RH and+/-70ºF. Use a humidifier if needed.

• Do NOT varnish, sand, polish etc. the wood core flooring. Products with wax, soap or polish may leave behind residues.

• Never fix the flooring planks to the base floor or other construction elements (with glue, nails, fixed door stops etc).

• Protect the feet of furniture and chairs with felt or plastic pads and regularly check their condition and cleanliness.

• Use chairs with soft wheels that won’t damage the flooring (Type W, in accordance with regulation DIN 68131), or failing that, use a polycarbonate mat to avoid direct contact with the floor (the wheels should be kept clean).
  

• The use of doormats at exterior door entrances is recommended in order to prevent dirt, dust, gravel, water etc. coming in from the street.

• Use a broom, cleaning pad, vacuum cleaner with brush for parquet flooring or a completely wrung out mop. Never use abrasive cleaning aids (wire wool, scouring pads etc.) or cleaning machines to clean the wood core flooring.
  

• Use non-abrasive, pH neutral detergents.

• To clean grooved products, do not use sharp or pointed, abrasive, cutting, wet etc. instruments. Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush for parquet flooring.
  If this is not enough, use a cloth slightly dampened in water.
  

• To eliminate stubborn stains on the surface (NEVER in joints or groves), use slightly diluted acetone or alcohol for household use. Clean with water afterwards.

• Special care should be taken in areas with pets (urine can damage the wood core flooring; avoid it and clean it immediately).
  

• If any water is spilled, it should be dried immediately to prevent any liquid remaining.
  

Installing wood core flooring in kitchens and bathrooms

To lay in bathrooms and kitchens, you need to use a JOINT SEALANT and JOINT FILLER SILICONE; if you do not, the terms of the warranty will be invalidated.

JOINT SEALANT

Joint sealant for wood core flooring. Stops water filtering between boards. Stops joints lifting.
Permits the installation of wood core flooring in wet areas (kitchens and bathrooms), ensuring a long life for the floor.

DIRECTION FOR USE

1. The sub-floor must be clean, dry and free of dust and grease.
2. Before assembling the boards, apply a continuous line along the length and width of the tongue edges of each board.
3. Join the two boards immediately. For a correct seal, the product should overflow from the joint.
4. Leave to dry for 15 to 30 minutes and then remove the excess product using a putty knife.

JOINT FILLER SILICONE

Neutral filler silicone designed to prevent water filtering under floating floors in kitchens and bathrooms. Ideal for filling the expansion gaps between the floating flooring and walls, furniture and bathroom fittings. The high degree of elasticity permits the flooring to expand without losing firmness. Good adherence on building materials, such as concrete, cement, brick, natural stone, metals, wood, fibre glass, PVC and glass.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:

1. Surfaces must be clean and dry.

2. Apply with a sealant gun between +40ºF and +100ºF.

3. Apply a generous line of product on the expansion gap between the floating floor and the wall, toilet, pipe, etc. until the gap is completely filled.
   Make sure there are no spaces between the wall or the floor and the filling. If the filler/sealant overflows slightly on the floor, it will be hidden later by the skirting board.

4. Smooth with a putty knife or a wet, soapy finger.

5. Drying 3mm/24h.
   
   

Installation in rooms with under-floor heating

Your floor is suitable for rooms with water-based under-floor cooling/heating systems, provided that it is used with an approved underlay.

It is not recommended with electric foil under-floor heating systems unless fully encapsulated in cement based subfloor. To use underlay and flooring over under-floor heating, the total thermal resistance must not be >0.15 (m2·K)/W.

The values obtained for the Silent Underlay and FINfloor joint solution are 0.127(m2·K)/W. It is also essential to respect the following installation rules and protocols:

Subsoil moisture content:

It is very important to check the moisture content of mineral base floors (cement, plaster etc.) of existing flooring, recently laid flooring and floors already covered (ceramic, natural stone, plastic etc. tile).
The moisture content of mineral base floors is checked using the magnesium moisture content test (MC) or with test equipment that measures the relative humidity.
Maximum permissible moisture content in mineral base floors:
Cement base floor <2.0% MC
Anhydrite plaster floor <0.5% MC
The ideal value would be <0.3% MC.

When the under-floor heating system has been installed.

1. After at least 21 days, the mortar should be dry with less than 1.5% MC. If it is higher, wait until this value is reached.
2. Start heating until reaching a surface temperature of 64°F, which will be maintained for 3 days.
3. Condition the unopened boxes of materials during those 3 days in the room where the flooring will be laid.
4. Start laying the flooring, keeping the base floor temperature at around 64ºF.
5. After the flooring has been laid, maintain the same temperature for another 3 days.
6. After that time, gradually increase the temperature by 10ºF per day. The base floor temperature (contact temperature) must not exceed 82ºF or 65W/m2 if it is an electrical system

Using large rugs can heat the area under them, which is detrimental to wood core flooring.
The ideal room temperature is ±70ºF air temperature, with 50-70% relative humidity. In very dry situations, it is advisable to use a humidifier to raise the relative humidity.

The heating should be turned on and off gradually (in 10ºF increments). NEVER SUDDENLY to avoid damaging the flooring.

It is recommended for the base boards not to be installed until completing the heating and cooling sequence in order to check that the perimeter joints are correct after the flooring has moved in the different conditions.

PRE-CONDITIONING THE WOOD CORE FLOORING BEFORE ANY INSTALLATION:

Depending on the season, the wood core flooring is subject to the influence of climate and temperature. In view of this, it is vitally important to condition the product before laying it.

The boxes should be stored and conditioned in the room where the flooring is going to be laid for at least 48 hours.

The microclimatic conditions of the room in question should be maintained before and for at least three days after the installation is finished:

• Floor Surface Temperature __ minimum 60°F
• Room Temperature _____ minimum 60°F
• Relative Humidity _____ Maximum 75%

Special attention should be paid to make sure that the stored wood core flooring is not exposed to air currents and that the boxes are not leaned against the walls while being conditioned. Ideally, they should be placed horizontally, well away from the walls, and ALWAYS UNOPENED (the boxes are not opened until after the pre-conditioning).

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