woosh Santana 3 Electric Bike User Manual
- June 3, 2024
- woosh
Table of Contents
Santana 3 Electric Bike
Manual
Santana 3 Electric Bike
Please read this manual.
It contains important information regarding your safety, the correct use of
the bike and how to avoid expensive repairs in the future.
Thank you for buying a Woosh Santana 3 electric bike.
Please read this manual completely before putting your bike together and
riding it. As well as instructions on assembly and maintenance it also
contains essential information that may affect your consumer rights.
The Woosh Ethos
Our aim is to supply decent quality electric bikes but at affordable prices.
This inevitably means importing from China, selling direct rather than through
dealers and working on much lower profit margins than many of our competitors.
It also means working hard with our suppliers to constantly improve quality
and ensure that each bike is checked before leaving us – not something all
mail order electric bike companies do.
There is however only so much we can offer within our price range.
We would for example like our bikes finished to German standards, with every
nut and bolt fully tightened, immaculate paintwork and superb quality plastic
on things like handlebars and battery cases. But this alas would also push the
prices up to those of German bikes – starting at £2000 – which clearly we
don’t wish to do.
That said, we are always happy with sensible comments for future improvements,
so please do email me with feedback, good or bad.
I look forward to hearing from you.
Hatti Lee
hatti@wooshbikes.co.uk
Expectations: please read this before riding
Pedalling: E-bikes are designed to be primarily pedalled, with use of the
throttle occasionally i.e. to rest for a short period. Using the throttle
constantly will run the battery down far more quickly.
Speed: Our bikes are designed for sensible use in accordance with UK law.
The motor will power you up to 15.5 mph and no faster, though you can still
pedal harder to achieve greater speeds.
Models: Some of our bikes are more suited for recreational use rather
than commuting. If you need a bike for commuting, check with us to see which
models would be suitable.
Care: Electric bikes need more regular maintenance than standard bikes.
Spokes and other mechanical fixings need tightening every 2 to 3 weeks and
tyres need inflating to the correct pressure. We also advise trying to ride
your bike as often as possible. Not Riding your bike for several months is not
good for the battery, especially over winter periods. This manual contains
details of how to keep your battery in the best condition if you’re not using
the bike for an extended period.
Identical bikes: No two bikes are identical, even if they are the same
model and purchased at the same time. One may be a little quicker or one motor
may be quieter than another. This is normal. Please make allowances.
Hill climbing: If you are heavy, have steep hills or both, you may have
difficulty getting uphill, and in extreme cases the bike may not get you up at
all. The motor is limited by law to 250 watts and there is only so much it can
propel up an incline.
If you weight over 17 stone and have a steep hill you will have to be prepared
to put in some of the work to get up hills.
Distance and performance The distance you can cover on a single charge will
vary significantly from person to person and bike to bike. It is affected by
weight, how much effort is put in, hills, headwinds, city traffic etc. The
motor may cut out on steep hills if the current limit is reached and the
performance of the battery will be affected when exposed to extreme cold.
Paint quality: please see overleaf
Costs: we ask you to contribute towards costs when returning the bike or
a part for repair and additional costs apply if you take your bike abroad (see
later).
If you are not happy with any of the above, please do not ride your bike. Call
us to arrange return and a refund.
IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE:
You must check your bike regularly and ensure all fixings are correctly
tightened and have not worked loose.
This includes but is not limited to checking and tightening spokes, saddle,
wheel nuts, handlebars, cranks and pedals.
You should also regularly check brakes and brake pads
Please read the maintenance manual which has details of how to properly look
after your bike.
Failure to carry out essential maintenance on a regular basis could cause a
cycle malfunction and result in safety issues for which Woosh Bikes Ltd. will
not be held responsible.
Important Safety Notice
Please read
Your bike has had a full electrical check before despatch.
I t has also had a general mechanical check but this is by no means a full PDI
(pre delivery inspection) which i s required to get the bike ready for the
road and safe to ride.
You should therefore be prepared to do this yourself or if you are not
sufficiently experienced ask a local bike shop to do this for you for a fee
(usually around £35). The aim of the PDI is to ensure safety, and should
include:
- Checking that the brakes are correctly installed, set correctly and work properly.
- A l l nuts, bolts, major fixings, spokes and cranks etc. are correctly tightened.
- Both wheels are trued and spokes checked.
- Pedals, saddle and handlebars are correctly fitted and properly secured.
These checks should be repeated after the first month and regularly thereafter
to ensure your safety.
Please note that failure to carry out these checks properly could result in
serious injury for which Woosh Bikes Ltd will not be held liable.
If you have any doubts about your own ability to do them, we strongly
recommend you visit your local bike shop and pay their fee. If you are unable
to take your bike to a local bike shop there will almost certainly be a mobile
bike technician in your area who will come to your home or office and do this
for you.
Visit www.cycletechuk.com for a full
national listing.
The type o f motor used on this model may become noisier over time, if this is
the case, you will need to periodically send your wheel in to be serviced. The
cost of servicing the wheel is £25 plus return postage.
This servicing is not covered by the warranty.
Unpacking:
Two people are required to unpack the bike.
Stand the carton upright as shown.
Remove the shipping straps, cut the tape seals and then remove all of the
packaging.
Keep the carton/bike in the upright position, and then lift the bike out of
the carton and then engage the kick-stand to keep it upright. DO NOT destroy
the carton as it will be required if the bike needs to be returned for any
reason in the future.
Once you have the bike out of the box, remove all of the remaining packaging.
This model comes almost completely assembled meaning that there is very little
to do to complete the bike.
Detach the handlebars and slide the stem into the frame at the desired height
and then tighten the Allen bolt (indicated below-left) with a 6mm Allen key to
secure them in position – see below. Slide the cover down fully when you’re
done. Ensure that handlebars are correctly aligned with the front wheel.
You may have a cap covering the hole where the Allen bolt is, if this is the case, just pull it out, and then put it back once you have fully tightened and adjusted the handlebars.
Handlebars cont.
Once the stem has been secured, you can now fine tune the positioning of the
handlebars. The handlebars can be adjusted in two ways. They bar it self can
be rotated within the clamp, and the whole assembly can be rotated
upwards/towards the rider.
To bring the handlebars upwards and towards to the rider, loosen the bolt
indicated in RED below and release the locking piece, then move the handlebars
into the desired position. Tighten the bolt again to secure the handlebars in
place. To rotate the handlebars, loosen the bolts indicated in BLUE below,
rotate the bars until they are in a comfortable position and then tighten the
bolts.
Warning:
It is critical to ensure that the handlebars are properly secured. If they
were to rotate or otherwise move unexpectedly during use, it could result in
an accident and/or serious injury. If you have any doubts regarding the
correct configuration of this part (or any other part of the bike), you should
take your bike along to your nearest bike shop and have them prepare it for
you at your cost.
Seat-post/saddle:
The seat-post simply slides into position and then the clamp is used to secure
it. To adjust the height of the saddle, simply open the clamp and position the
seat-post at the desired height and then close the clamp to lock it into
position. It may be necessary to tighten the thumb screw a little to ensure
that when the clamp is closed the seat-post is properly secured. Adjust the
thumb-screw as needed. There are a couple of different seat-post options on
this model, but the clamp works in the same way regardless of which post you
have.
Pedals:
Important: The pedals fit a specific side of the bike. If you attempt to fit
the pedals to the wrong side, you will damage the cranks and possibly damage
the pedals as well. If you do manage to force the pedals on to the wrong side
of the bike, it is likely that they will come loose suddenly and unexpectedly.
Replacements will need to be paid for and will not be provided for free in
this scenario.
The pedals are marked ‘L’ (left ) and ‘R’ (right) which indicates the side of
the bike the pedal is for. To determine which pedal is for which side, see the
pictures below showing where this marking is found. If your pedals do not have
these markings, refer to the notes at the bottom of this page.
Fit each pedal into position and finger-tighten, then use a 15mm spanner to
fully secure the pedals in place.
Note: the left pedal tightens counter-clockwise.
If your pedals do not have L and R clearly stamped on them, look at the area
indicated in the photo above-right , this area will be ribbed/serrated on the
left pedal. This same area on the right pedal will be smooth.
Charging/locking the battery:
The battery may not leave us fully charged. You should fully charge the
battery before using your bike. The battery can be charged on the bike or it
can be removed and charged separately. The socket used to charge the battery
is located on the left side towards the rear of the battery as shown below-
left.
Ensure that the charger is switched OFF before attaching the charger to the
bike.
To charge the battery, simply lift the weatherproof cover and connect the
charger to the socket and then plug the other end into a regular mains socket.
On the charger is a small light which is red while charging.
When charging is complete, this light will turn green.
To remove the battery from your bike, use the supplied key to unlock the
battery by turning it anticlockwise. Once unlocked, simply slide the battery
rearwards and off the bike. A full charge can take up to around 8 hours or
more. Don’t forget to lock the battery when putting it back on the bike.
At the rear of the battery is a meter which gives you a rough idea of the remaining battery capacity. To activateth is meter, simply press the button in the centre. The more lights that come on, the greater the remaining capacity. There is a similar meter on the control module on the handlebars. This module is covered in more depth later in the manual. As the battery depletes, the green lights will go out one by one, ideally you should charge the battery when just one LED goes out as the battery will already be quite low. The voltage remains fairly constant until the battery gets low and then drops off quite quickly.
The picture above-right shows how a full battery would be indicated i.e. all
of the GREEN LED’s and also the two outer RED LED’s are illuminated. The outer
LED’s are always RED and do NOT turn GREEN.
Basically if all the LED’s are lit the battery is full or thereabouts.
Important:
Although our bikes are checked prior to despatch, you must fully inspect
your bike again yourself before riding it, and satisfy yourself that it is
correctly assembled and safe to ride. If you are not absolutely sure about any
aspects of your bike, you should take it to your nearest bike shop to have it
checked before riding it. Obviously the bike shop will you charge for this
service. Woosh Bikes not reimburse you for these costs.
Before riding your bike, check the tyre pressures. The tyres on this model
should normally be inflated to approximately 45-50psi. For heavier riders it
may be necessary to inflate the tyres a little more.
Check that all fixings and major components are tightened sufficiently. Check
that all nuts, bolts, rear carrier fixings, handlebars and seat-post/saddle
are also sufficiently tightened.
You must also ensure that your brakes are working correctly before you set
off. If you are unsure how to adjust your brakes yourself, refer to the
maintenance manual to help you with this. If you prefer, you can have your
local bike shop adjust them for you. The brakes are the same as you would find
on a regular bike and so any bike shop should be able to adjust them for you.
You would obviously have to pay them for this service.
Battery care:
The Santana 3 comes with a modern light-weight lithium polymer battery.
Some care is needed to ensure your battery performs at its best and lasts as
long as possible. All batteries age over time meaning that the achievable
range will gradually decrease, but to ensure you get the most from your
battery, follow the instructions below.
Charge the battery once or twice per week as needed, it is better to keep the
battery topped up than to allow it to run completely flat.
Do NOT charge the battery in extremely cold conditions.
If the battery is not in regular use i.e. over the winter, you should charge
the battery for around 10-15 minutes every three weeks or so. This will slow
the aging process and will help the battery last as long as possible. When the
bike is to be put back into service, fully charge the battery to prepare it
regular use.
General battery care:
Do not attempt to open the outer casing of the battery.
Do not attempt to repair the battery.
Do not immerse the battery in water.
Keep the battery away from children.
Do not drop, pierce or otherwise damage the battery.
Ensure the battery is not exposed to temperatures above 55 degrees Celsius or
extreme humidity.
Do not use the bike in an environment where temperatures are less than minus 5
or greater than 55 degrees Celsius.
Riding the bike
To begin using the bike, press (and hold) the top ‘Mode’ button to switch
on the display. The bike is now effectively on, and if you ride it in this
state, the motor will provide assistance when pedalling and you will also be
able to use the twist-grip if you wish—see note below. To vary the amount of
assistance provided from the motor when pedalling, use the plus(+), minus(-)
buttons to choose from the 5 assistance levels.
There are several other features available on the King-Meter and these are
covered later in the manual. The information provided so far is just enough to
get you up and running as quickly as possible.
The motor will only assist you up to 15 mph. Though of course you are free to
pedal as fast as you like, beyond 15mph if you wish, but the motor will not
help you beyond the 15 mph limit. This limit is in accordance with current UK
law.
The Santana 3 comes with a twist-grip/throttle, this is located on the right
side of the handlebars as shown below. When the twist-grip is pulled fully,
the motor will provide the most assistance. The twist-grip is enabled/disabled
by the red button as indicated below. The red button does not affect pedal-
assistance which is always available. The bike needs to be pedalled a short
distance before the throttle can be used.
You should ideally ensure that the twist-grip is disabled when
mounting/dismounting the bike (or make sure the display is switched off), this
is to avoid the situation where you might twist the throttle a little
unintentionally and have the bike lurch forward unexpectedly as a result.
Riding the bike cont.
Your bike features 7 speed Shimano index shifting gears which are changed
using the thumb selector on the right side of the handlebars. When the thumb
stick is fully extended, the bike is in first gear (the easiest to pedal). To
move up through the gears press the black (+) button as shown. Change one gear
at a time and ensure the gear is properly engaged before selecting another
gear.
To move back down the gears, simply push the thumb selector again.
You should use the gears in the same way you would on a regular bike i.e. a
low gear is needed when pulling away and/or climbing hills, and the higher
gears for cruising.
IMPORTANT:
LOOK AFTER SPOKES, TYRES AND KEYS!!
The additional vibrations on an electric bike can cause the fixings and
also the spokes to become loose more quickly than on a standard bike. You must
maintain them (or have a local bike shop maintain them for you if it’s
something you cannot do yourself). If you do not regularly maintain your bike,
you may damage the bike and potentially cause safety issues for which Woosh
Bikes would not be held liable.
Please read the following:
Your spokes will have been checked before despatch, but if you have a look,
you will find some less tight than others. This variation ensures the wheel is
straight (or ‘trued’). If all the spokes were equally tight, or all very
tight, the wheel would not be straight. So it is normal that some spokes are
tighter than others. In future, check your spokes regularly, every two or
three weeks if you ride daily, or once every couple of months if you only ride
occasionally. We normally supply a spoke tool (small round metallic device)
normally included in the same box as the battery charger.
How to check? Lightly ‘ping’ each spoke like a harp string with your index
finger. If it feels very loose place the spoke key onto the nipple of the
spoke in question, using gauge number 13. The nipple is the metal connector at
the base of the spoke where it joins the wheel rim. Give it a quarter turn or
so. Don’t overtighten the nipple as the spoke may then be too rigid and snap
during riding.
You can also give your wheel a quick visual check by spinning it and making
sure the brake pads are equal distances from the wheel when it spins and that
it seems to spin in a straight line. If the wheel is not true, then the wheel
rim will likely rub on the brake pads at various points as it rotates, use the
spoke key to tighten or loosen the spokes at the point where it rubs to bring
the wheel back in to line. You may want to have this done at your local bike
shop if you are not experienced.
Also check and inflate your tyres to the correct PSI regularly, the pressure
range of the tyres is printed on the side wall of the tyre. For heavier
riders, you would generally inflate the tyre towards the upper range, for
lighter riders, less so. Around 45-50psi
These maintenance steps aren’t always needed as often on a standard bike, but
they are for an electric bike.
If you are not able to perform these checks yourself, you should have your
local bike shop do them for you at your cost.
Lastly, separate your keys and keep them in a safe place. We can’t supply
spares.
Fitting/Operating the lights:
The front and rear lights are already fitted, to operate the rear light,
simply press the button on the top of the light as shown below.
To change the batteries in this unit, simply reach under the bottom edge and
then pull the lower edge of the light rearwards.
If your light doesn’t work initially, it is likely that the insulating
material fitted at the factory to stop the battery going flat is still in
place. Simply access the battery compartment and remove the small plastic
insulator that sits between the battery and terminal of the light.
To switch on the front light, press the button on the top, this will cycle
through the modes which are Off /On/Flashing and then Off again.
To change the batteries, remove the light from the bike by pressing on the
clip on the rear of the unit and sliding the light forwards. Loosen the screw
on the underside to access the battery compartment. This light uses AAA
batteries.
Control Module—Advanced
The display has many advanced features and modes, these include backlit
display (for night riding), indicator options for max speed, average speed and
current speed and a battery power indicator. It also features a walking mode
which is used when you want to wheel/push the bike, this is basically a very
low speed mode which is activated by pressing and holding the minus (-)
button, this can also be used as a start-aid.
Warning:
The display comes pre-configured specifically for your bike. Incorrect
settings could cause damage to the bike components and also result in a bike
that is not UK road legal. Any modifications made to the controller
configuration will void your warranty.
Turning Control Module On/Off
To turn on the control module press and hold the top (Mode) button. Press and
hold the same button to turn off the module and disable all electric features
of the bike.
Turning Backlight On/Off
To turn on the display backlight, press and hold the “Up” button. Press and
hold the same button to turn it off.
Varying Pedal Assist Level
To alter the level of assistance provided simply press the Up/Down arrows to
cycle through the 5 levels of assistance. Level 1 offers the least assistance
while level 5 offers the greatest assistance.
Speed Display Mode
There are three different modes for the speed display, these are current
speed, average speed and maximum speed. To switch between these modes, press
and hold the “Up and Mode” buttons for approx. 1 second to cycle through the
modes.
Walking Mode/Start- Aid
The bike also supports a walking mode which is basically a very slow mode
allowing you to walk next to the bike at approx. 6m/h. This is activated by
pressing and holding the “Down” button. As soon as the button is released, the
bike will stop. This can also be used to start off, if you find it difficult
from a stand-still.
Display Mode
To switch between Odo (overall distance travelled) and Trip mode (current trip
distance travelled), press the “Mode” button. To reset the trip computer press
and hold both the top and bottom buttons.
Adjusting the brakes:
The Santana 3 comes with disc brakes at the front and v-brakes at the rear.
These are checked and set up before the bike is dispatched but you must check
that the brakes are working properly before you ride the bike.
The maintenance manual has details of how to adjust your brakes.
Discs brakes do sometimes need a certain amount of bedding in, so be aware of
this when you ride the bike for the first few miles.
Essential maintenance:
The Santana 3 is a low maintenance bike, however it is essential that you
carry out some maintenance regularly to ensure that your bike is both safe and
going to last for years to come.
You must check your spokes as outlined earlier.
You must regularly check and tighten as necessary ALL nuts/bolts/fixings.
You must ensure that the handlebars are tight, if the handlebars are not
checked and they work loose, they may move suddenly and unexpectedly which
could be very dangerous.
You must check that the saddle clamp is sufficiently tight and also that the
saddle it self is properly secured to the post. The bolt for this is located
under the seat.
You must monitor the cranks, if they work loose or there is movement in the
bottom bracket, do not continue to ride the bike until the issue has been
resolved.
Failure to carry out essential maintenance on your bike on a regular basis
could result in an injury, for which Woosh Bikes Ltd will not be held liable.
Please ensure this is done to ensure your own safety.
Refer to the maintenance manual which came with your bike for the maintenance
schedule and procedures.
Woosh Support:
It can sometimes be useful to see the issue you have, so if possible, email
a description of the problem along with a couple of photos and/or a video, and
we’ll normally get back to you within a an hour or two (on weekdays).
If you need to call us, use the support number below. You may have to leave a
message with your contact details and then we will call you back as soon as we
can.
Support staff are not available at the weekends, though if you send an email
or leave a message, we will get back to you on the following Monday.
Email: support@wooshbikes.co.uk
© 2018 Woosh Bikes Limited
Tel. 01702 684444
E-mail:support@wooshbikes.co.uk