woosh Faro Electric Bike User Manual

Faro Electric Bike
User Manual

Faro Electric Bike

Please read this manual.
It contains important information regarding your safety, and the correct use of the bike.
Support is available Mon to Fri from 10am to 5pm [email protected]
Tel. 01702 435566
E-mail: [email protected]
Thank you for buying a Woosh Faro.
Please read this manual completely before putting your bike together and riding it. As well as instructions on assembly and maintenance it also contains essential information that may affect your consumer rights.
The Woosh Ethos
Our aim is to supply decent quality electric bikes but at very affordable prices.
This inevitably means importing from China, selling direct rather than through dealers and working on much lower profit margins than many of our competitors. It also means working hard with our suppliers to constantly improve quality and ensure that each bike is checked before leaving us – not something all mail order electric bike companies do.
There is however only so much we can offer within our price range. We would for example like our bikes finished to German standards, with every nut and bolt fully tightened, immaculate paintwork and superb quality plastic on things like handlebars and battery cases. But this alas would also push the prices up to those of German bikes – starting at £1800 – which clearly we don’t wish to do.
That said, we are always happy with sensible comments for future improvements, so please do email me with feedback, good or bad. I look forward to hearing from you. Hatti Lee
[email protected] 

Your bike has had a full electrical check before despatch.
It has also had a general mechanical check, but you need to ensure yourself that when you complete the assembly of your bike, that you also check the whole bike over before riding it.
You should be prepared to do this yourself, or if you are not sufficiently experienced, ask a local bike shop to do this for you. A typical fee for this would be around £40.
A full inspection should include (but is not limited to):

• Checking that the brakes are set correctly and work properly.
• All nuts, bolts, major fixings, spokes and cranks etc. are correctly tightened.
• Both wheels are properly trued
• Headset/stem properly adjusted
• Cranks are tight
• Bottom bracket properly adjusted
• Pedals, saddle and handlebars are correctly fitted and properly secured.

See the maintenance manual for how to adjust and maintain the various components of the bike.
Please note that failure to carry out these checks properly could result in serious injury for which Woosh Bikes Ltd will not be held liable.

If you have any doubts about your own ability to perform the necessary checks, we strongly recommend you visit your local bike shop and pay their fee. If you are unable to take your bike to a local bike shop there will almost certainly be a mobile bike technician in your area who will come to your home or office and do this for you.
Visit www.cycletechuk.com for a full national listing.
The type of motor used on this model may become noisier over time, if this is the case, you will need to periodically send your wheel in to be serviced. The cost of servicing the wheel is £25 plus return postage. This servicing is not covered by the warranty.
If you need to remove the motor wheel for any reason, you must re-grease the cavity where the cable enters the wheel, this is to prevent moisture from getting into the motor. Doing this this will extend the life of the motor and will avoid potentially expensive servicing costs. See the rear of this manual for details on this procedure.

Unpacking

Two people are required to unpack the bike. The carton should be kept upright at all times. Remove the shipping straps, cut the tape seals and then remove any/all loose packaging and also the accessory box, mud guards, and battery (if it’s not already fitted on the bike). Then lift the bike out of the carton, and immediately down to the floor. DO NOT destroy the carton as it may be needed if the bike has to be returned for any reason in the future. Next, detach the front wheel and remove the remaining packing materials from the bike, be careful not to scratch the frame or nick/cut any cables.
Fitting the handlebars:
The handlebars initially come strapped to the frame, but once the packing materials have been removed, they’ll be hanging down. To avoid the frame getting scratched, fit the handlebars in place straight away. Undo the four bolts and remove the clamp, put the handlebars in place ensuring that the ribbed section is sitting centrally and that none of the cables are twisted, then fit the clamp and secure in place with the four bolts. Before fully tightening the bolts, ensure that the brake levers etc. are at a comfortable angle,  rotate the bars as required for the most comfortable position.

Warning: It is critical to ensure that the handlebars are properly secured. If they were to rotate or otherwise move unexpectedly during use, it could result in an accident and/or serious injury. If you have any doubts regarding the correct configuration of this part (or any other part of the bike), you should take your bike along to your nearest bike shop and have them prepare it for you at your cost.

Fitting the front wheel:
Before attempting to fit the wheel to the bike, you will need to remove the pad spacer from the brake calli- pers—see below.

The front wheel features a quick release (QR) system so the wheel can be quickly and easily removed/ refitted.
Locate the skewer (see below-left), remove the nut and one of the springs, and then slide it through the centre of the wheel from the opposite side to the disc/rotor. Ensure  hat the springs are fitted correctly, there should be one on each side, and the smaller part of the springs should face inwards. With the skewer pushed through the wheel, slide the spring in to place and then give the nut a few turns to secure it. Note that the nut is on the side of the wheel where the rotor is fitted, and the clamp is on the opposite side.
The wheel can now be fitted to the bike, it’s easiest to do this with the bike upside down (NOT on a hard floor). Lower the wheel carefully into place ensuring that as you lower it, the rotor drops into the correct position between the brake pads. Tighten the nut by hand nearly all the way and then close the clamp on the opposite side to secure the wheel in place. You will likely need to adjust the nut so that the clamp offers a good amount of resistance as it is closed, simply open the clamp and give the nut a turn or so in whichever direction you need, and then try again, repeat as necessary.

Seat-post/saddle:
To adjust the height of the saddle, loosen the bolt using a 4mm Allen key, position the post at the desired height and then re-tighten the bolt to secure the post in position.

Pedals:
Important—the pedals fit a specific side of the bike. If you attempt to fit the pedals to the wrong side, you will damage the threads on the cranks. Also, if you force the pedals on to the wrong side of the bike, it is very likely that they will come loose suddenly and unexpectedly. The pedals can be identified in several ways: L or R is clearly visible on the pedal itself—see below-left. There are also grooves present on left pedal, that are not present on the right—see below-right.
Note: the left pedal tightens counter-clockwise.

Finger tighten the pedals as much as you can, then tighten the rest of the way with a 15mm spanner.
Charging/locking the battery:
The battery will not leave us fully charged. You should fully charge the battery before using your bike. The socket used to charge the battery is located at the top-left of the down-tube, see below. Lift the flap to access the charging socket. Once the charger has been attached and switched on at the mains, the light  on the charger will go RED to indicate that it is charging the battery, when charging is complete, this light will go GREEN.

The status LED indicates the current state of the battery. If the LED is not illuminated, the battery is switched off, press the power button switch the battery on. The LED will glow blue when the battery is on. When the battery is powered down, the LED will cycle through red and green for a second or so as the battery switches off—this is normal.
To get an idea of the battery status in terms of remaining charge, use the meter on the display. The more segments showing the fuller the battery.
A full charge from flat can take up to around 8 hours.
For the instructions on the higher capacity externally-mounted battery, turn to the next page.

Externally mounted battery

The battery will likely be only partially charged when you receive the bike. You should fully charge the battery before using your bike. The battery can be charged on the bike or it can be removed and charged separately. The socket used to charge the battery is located on the right side near the top—see photo below-left. Simply lift the weather-proof cover and insert the charger into he socket, then switch the charger on at the mains. The charger has a light on it which is RED while charging, which then turns GREEN when charging is complete. A full charge from flat can take up to 10 hours.

The battery lock is located on the opposite side to the charger socket (see photo above-right) and needs to be turned fully anti-clockwise to unlock the battery. When unlocked, the battery is simply slid upwards towards the front of the bike a little and then it can be lifted clear of the bike. Reverse the procedure to put the battery back on the bike, do not forget to lock the battery.
On the top of the battery is a meter (see photo below-left), this is used to give a rough indication of the battery status, to activate the meter, press the button in the middle. The more lights that are lit, the more capacity remains in the battery. The red light on the left of this meter is always RED, it is just to indicate that if this is the only light left, you should charge the battery immediately, this light does not ever go GREEN.

Remember to separate your keys, we cannot supply replacements if you lose them.

Battery care

The Faro comes with a modern light-weight lithium battery. The battery on this model is not designed to be removed by the end-user, and would normally only be removed for servicing purposes.
Some care is needed to ensure your battery performs at its best and lasts as long as possible. All batteries age over time, meaning that the range will gradually decrease as the battery gets older, so to ensure you get the most from your battery, follow the instructions below. Try not to allow the battery to run down completely. DO NOT charge the battery in extremely cold conditions.
If the battery is not in regular use i.e. over the winter, you should charge the battery to around two thirds full, and then charge the battery for around 5-10 minutes every few weeks. This will slow the aging process and will help the battery to last longer. When the bike is to be put back into service, fully charge the battery to prepare it regular use.
General battery care:
Do not attempt to open the outer casing of the battery.
Do not attempt to repair the battery.
Do not immerse the battery in water.
Keep the battery away from children.
Do not drop, pierce or otherwise damage the battery.
Ensure the battery is not exposed to temperatures above 55 degrees Celsius or extreme humidity.
Do not use the bike in an environment where temperatures are below minus 5 degrees Celsius.

Important:
Although our bikes are checked prior to despatch, you must fully inspect your bike again yourself before riding it, and satisfy yourself that it is correctly assembled and safe to ride. If you are not experienced and/or are not absolutely sure about any aspects of your bike, you should take it to your nearest bike shop to have it checked before riding it. Obviously the bike shop will you charge for this service. Woosh Bikes will not reimburse you for these costs.
Before riding your bike, check the tyre pressures. The tyres should be inflated to around 90psi.
No less than 80psi, and no more than 120psi. Check that all fixings and major components are tightened sufficiently. Check all nuts, bolts, rear carrier fixings, crank-bolts, handlebars and seat-post/saddle etc. You must also ensure that your brakes are working correctly before you ride the bike.
If you need to adjust your brakes, refer to the “maintenance manual” that came with the bike. If you prefer, you can have your local bike shop adjust them for you. The brakes are similar to those you would find on a regular nonelectric bike and so any bike shop should be able to adjust them for you. You would need to pay them for this service.
Operating/maintaining the front & rear lamps:
The rear lamp uses 2x AA batteries. The on/off button is located on the top face. To change the batteries, there is a lug on the underside of the light, this needs to be pulled down and away from the bike.

The front lamp is secured to the handlebars with the rubber strap. It also uses 2x AA batteries, to change the batteries, unclip the lens at the underside of the lamp, and then slide the lens out from the rest of the battery body, see below-left. Pay attention to the polarity of the batteries, easiest seen on the rear of the cover. Slide the lens back into  place and ensure the clip properly engages before putting it back on the bike.

Riding the bike
To turn the bike ON and OFF, press AND HOLD the middle button for a second or so.

With the display now illuminated, the bike is now on and will provide assistance when ridden. Use the plus (+) and minus (-) buttons to increase or decrease the amount of assistance given. The assistance levels range from 1-5, with level 1 giving the least assistance, and level 5 giving the most. There are several other modes and features of the display that are covered in more detail towards the rear of this manual, but the information given at this stage is just enough to get quickly up and running.
The bike will only assist you up to 15mph/25kph. Though of course you can use your own strength/power to pedal beyond 15mph if you wish.
This bike features “start-assist”, meaning that when the minus (-) button is held, the bike will start moving and will then hold steady at around 3.5 to 4mph. If you struggle with initially getting moving, this feature will help get you started more easily. Once in motion, pedal the bike as you normally would and release the button.
Your bike features an 8 speed Shimano rapid-fire shifter located on the right side of the handlebars. To move up through the gears, PULL the upper lever/trigger with your index finger. To move down the gears, PUSH the lower lever on the underside with your thumb.

IMPORTANT:
LOOK AFTER SPOKES, TYRES AND KEYS!!

The vibrations on an electric bike can cause the fixings and also the spokes to become loose more quickly than on a standard bike. You must maintain them (or have a local bike shop maintain them for you if it’s something you cannot do yourself). If you do not regularly maintain your bike, you may damage the bike and also there are likely to be safety issues for which Woosh Bikes will not be held liable.
Please read the following:

Your spokes will have been checked before despatch, but if you have a look, you will find some less tight than others. This variation ensures the wheel is straight (or ‘trued’). If all the spokes were equally tight, or all very tight, the wheel would not be straight. So it is normal that some spokes are tighter than others.
In future, check your spokes regularly, every two or three weeks if you ride daily, or once every couple of months if you only ride occasionally. We normally supply a spoke tool (small round numbered metallic device) which comes in the same box  as the battery charger.
How to check? Lightly ‘ping’ each spoke like a harp string with your index finger. If it feels very loose insert the spoke key onto the nipple of the spoke in question, using the notch numbered 13. The nipple is the metal part at the base of the spoke where it joins the wheel rim. Give it a quarter turn or so. Don’t over- tighten the nipple as the spoke may then be too rigid and could snap during riding. If you’re not sure how to do this, then have your local bike shop make these adjustments for you.

You can give your wheel a quick visual check by spinning it and making sure the brake pads are equal distances from the wheel when it spins and that it seems to spin straight and not wobble from side to side. Get someone to help hold the bike if necessary. If the wheel is not true, then the wheel rim will likely rub on the brake pads at various points as it rotates, use the spoke key to tighten or loosen the spokes at the point where it rubs to bring the wheel back in to line. You may want to have this done at your local bike shop if you are not experienced.
Also check your tyre pressures often (before each ride ideally), and inflate as required. The pressure range of the tyres is printed on the side wall of the tyre, though we recommend inflating them to around 90 psi on this model. For heavier riders, you may want to inflate them a little higher, but don’t go beyond the maximum of 120psi.
These maintenance steps aren’t always needed quite as often on a standard bike, but they are for an electric bike.
If you are not able to perform these checks yourself, you should have your local bike shop do them for you at your cost.

Adjusting the brakes:
The Faro comes with hydraulic disc brakes front and rear. These are checked and set up before the bike is dispatched but you must check that the brakes are working properly before you ride the bike.
See the maintenance manual for help on how to you adjust your brakes, but if you aren’t able to manage this yourself, you should take it to your local bike shop and have them adjust them for you. Obviously you would have to pay for this service.
Discs brakes do sometimes require a certain amount of bedding in, so be aware of this when you ride the bike for the first few miles.

Essential maintenance:
See the “Maintenance Manual” for the full details of how to look after your bike.
The Faro is a low maintenance bike, however it is essential that you carry out some maintenance regularly to ensure that your bike is both safe and going to last for years to come.
You must check your spokes as outlined earlier.
You must regularly check and tighten as necessary ALL nuts/bolts/fixings.
You must ensure that the handlebars are tight. If the handlebars are not checked and they work loose, they could move suddenly and unexpectedly.
You must check that the saddle clamp is sufficiently tight and also that the saddle itself is properly secured to the post. The bolt securing the seat to the post is on the underside of the saddle.
You must monitor the cranks, if they work loose or there is movement in the bottom bracket, do not continue to  ride the bike until the issue has been resolved.
Failure to carry out essential maintenance on your bike on a regular basis could result in an injury, for which Woosh Bikes Ltd will not be held liable. Please ensure this is done  o ensure your safety.

Display—Advanced features
To turn the bike/display On or Off, press and hold the middle button.
In its default mode when the display is first switched on, it shows the current level of assistance at the copyright of the  screen, the battery status along the top-left,  and the current speed—as per the picture below.

To adjust the assistance level, use the (+) to increase the assistance and (-) to reduce the assistance. There are 5 levels of assistance (1 to 5).
The display is also capable of showing the following:
Trip—distance travelled on the current journey (will continue to record distance across multiple trips unless reset, see below).
ODO—total distance travelled since the bike was new.
Rid time—the length of time since the bike/LCD has been switched on.
AVG—the average speed of the current trip.
MAX—the maximum speed achieved during the current journey.
To switch between these modes, tap the middle button to cycle through them. After a few seconds of showing the selected info, the display will revert back to the default screen showing the current speed and assistance level.

Option 1 – is used to reset the trip back to zero.
Option 2 – is used to select whether to display the speed in Miles or Kilometres.
Making changes to options 3, 4 or 5 without first obtaining authorisation from Woosh will void your warranty with immediate effect.
To move through the items on the list, use (+) to move down the list and (-) to move up the list. Press the middle button to select the chosen option, then use (+) or (-) to change the setting. Press and hold the middle button to save changes and/or to return to normal operation.

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Manufacturer, address
Made in China for Woosh Bikes Ltd    42-46 Queens Road, Southend-on-Sea, Essex, SS1 1NL, UK
The product (syst em) identified above is in conformity with the listed European Directive(s). The following tabl e identifies the applied standards and the conformity assessment procedure.
EMC DIRECTIVE
2004/108/EC
OJ DEC. 2004 L 390/24| TWO or THREE-WHEEL MOTOR VEHICLES DIRECTIVE 2002/24/EC| MACHINE DIRECTIVE 2006/42 EC \ OJ MAY 2006 L 157/24
Applicable X Non Applicable| OJ May 2002 L 124/1
Applicable Non Applicable X| Applicable X Non Applicable
– Applied Standards
• EN 15194
• EN61000-4-2
• EN 55022| – Applied Standards
• EN 15194| – Applied Standards
• EN 15194
Date 01/01/2013| Signature ****| Authorised representative Director—Woosh Bikes Ltd

Woosh Support:
If you need to get in touch, our contact details are below.
It can sometimes be useful to see the issue you have, so if possible, send us a brief email with a couple of  photos illustrating the problem and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can (usually the same day).
Support staff are not available at the weekends, so any emails sent over the weekend will normally be responded to on the following  Monday.
Support articles and FAQ’s:
www.wooshbikes.co.uk/?support
Email:  [email protected]

© 2019 Woosh Bikes Limited

Documents / Resources

| woosh Faro Electric Bike [pdf] User Manual
Faro Electric Bike, Faro, Electric Bike, Bike
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References

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