Phaetus 498501 X Voron HF Hotend Instructions
- June 4, 2024
- Phaetus
Table of Contents
Phaetus 498501 X Voron HF Hotend
PRODUCT FEATURE
COMPITABLE FILAMENTS
Compatible with all Filaments, including: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, PP, PO, Nylon, PEEK, PEI, and composite materials containing abrasive additives such as carbon fiber, steel, wood, boron carbide, tungsten and phosphorescent pigment.
PARTS AND ACCESSRIOS
SPECIFICATION
- M2.5×8 screws *4pcs
- M1.4×12 screws *2pcs
- H1.27 / H1.5 / H2.0 hexagon bar 1pcs, HB.O open wrench 1pcs
- Heat conducting silicone grease Brass sleeve
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PRODUCT EXPLODED VIEW
PRODUCT ADVANTAGE
- Heatbreak with an ultra-thin wall thickness as thin as 0.1mm, realizing an excellent thermal insulation.
- Increased rigid support structure guarantee the heatbreak remaining intact under the impact of external force.
- Integral frame rigid structure makes nozzle replacement more convenient without grasping the heatblock.
- The inner hole roughness of nozzle and heatbreak is Ra0.4, which allow a smoother movement of filament, resulting higher resolution prints.
- Standard hotend and high flow hotend have the same overall dimension, which realize a zero barrier for interchangeability.
- The hotend is mainly composed of copper alloy material which has the advantage of faster heating and better heat dissipation.
- Standard all metal kit, with overall high temperature resistance up to 500 °C.
SUPPORTED 3D PRINTER MODELS
Dragon Hotend is compatible with the following models (including but not
limited to):
To view the version of this Dragon Hotend product, see the information on the
packaging.
ASSEMBLY STEPS
1. Use HB.O open – ended wrench to screw the heatbreak into surface A of the
heatblock. The torque is about 4.5nm.
2. Install the 4 supporting tubes into the 4 holes at the bottom of the
heatsink.
3. Carefully align the 4 supporting tubes of the heatsink with the 4 holes on
the A side of heatblock, press them completely. Meanwhile, please note that
the top of the heatbreak should be completely close to the holes on the top of
the heatsink. If not properly aligned, heatbreak would be damaged during hot
-tightening.
Note: Heatblock should be properly oriented so that the 2 threaded holes at
the bottom of the heatsink are oriented the same as the 2 holes on the A side
of the heatblock.
4. In side B of the heatblock (4 holes), screw the 3 screws as shown in the
figure below into the corresponding screw holes with the appropriate hexagon
bar.
Attention: Over – tightening of the M1.4*12 screw may damage the thread, or
lead to screw fracture and hex nut slip, etc.
5. Cover the heatblock with the silicone sock.
6. If you are using glass ball type thermocouple, put the thermocouple into
the brass sleeve in the attachment first (the brass sleeve is shown in the
figure below), and the port should be sealed with the heat conducting silicone
grease carried in the attachment, and then put it into the heatblock and lock
them with the head screw.
HOT TIGHTENING
- Hot – tightening is the last mechanical step before Dragon Hotend Voron Edition is ready! It is essential for the sealing of the nozzle and heatbreak to ensure that molten filaments do not leak out of the hotend during use.
- Using the printer’s control software (or LCD screen) to set the hotend’s temperature to 285°0. Wait one minute after its temperature reaches 285°0 to equalize the temperature of all components.
- Gently tighten the nozzle while fixing the heatblock with a wrench, and finally tighten the nozzle with a smaller 7.8mm wrench. This will keep the nozzle close to the heatbreak and ensure that the hotend does not leak.
- The tightening torque of the hot nozzle is about 2.5nm, which is about the pressure applied by one finger on the small wrench.
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- Phaetus, registered in China and other countries and regions.
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