DESIGN ML-1380 Series Kitchen Sink Instruction Manual

: September 23, 2024
: DESIGN

Table of Contents

DESIGN ML-1380 Series Kitchen Sink
Product Information
Product Usage Instructions
TECHNICAL OVERVIEW
DRAIN AND SIPHON
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
GENERAL INFORMATION
INSTALLATION
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DESIGN ML-1380 Series Kitchen Sink

Product Information

Specifications

Model Numbers: ML-1380 | ML-1381 | ML-1382 | ML-1383 | ML-1384 | ML-1385
Dimensions: 340mm x 200mm x 310mm
Material: Stainless steel
Installation Difficulty: Medium to Heavy
Number of Persons for Installation: 1-2

Product Usage Instructions

Materials and Tools Required

Cutter/Universal knife
Safety goggles
Eimer Bucket
Pencil
Spirit level
Drill/Cordless screwdriver
Cartridge gun (silicone syringe)
Hole cutter/drill
Wood drill bit (10 mm)
Sandpaper

Optional Tools

Painter’s fleece
Multitool
Vacuum cleaner/Hand brush

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Is the sink compatible with all types of worktops?
A: Variant Cmay not be suitable for all types of worktops. It is recommended to refer to the installation instructions forguidance on compatibility.

TECHNICAL OVERVIEW

Unit of measurement: millimetre (mm)

SINK

DRAIN AND SIPHON

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Mittel bis schwer
Degree of difficulty: medium to heavy
Time required: 1 – 1 ¹/2 days
Tools and materials
Working trestles
Scraper for old silicone residue if necessary
Cutter/universal knife
Hearing protection if necessary
Safety goggles
Bucket
Spirit level
Folding rule/measuring strip
Drill/ cordless screwdriver
Jigsaw
Router (for inset sink)
Guide rail/routing guide if necessary
Cartridge gun (silicone syringe)
Hole cutter/drill
Wood drill bit (10 mm)
Face router (4 mm for corner radius)

Material

Kitchen sink
Kitchen faucet (not included in the scope of delivery
Siphon
Silicone (sealing tape if necessary)
Crepe tape
Lubricant if necessary
Optional:
Painter’s fleece
Multitool
Vacuum cleaner/hand brush

GENERAL INFORMATION

Remove all jewelry or other items that may hinder or restrict the safe performance of the work or restrict the functioning of personal protective equipment.
If possible, always wear suitable protective equipment to protect your eyes, ears and hands from damage.
Before starting work, check that your work equipment, machines and tools are in perfect condition.
Prepare the work area carefully and ensure that it is free of unused objects.
Take sufficient time for each work step to avoid mistakes.

IMPORTANT! If you always follow all instructions carefully, you will help to protect yourself and others from harm and avoid mistakes.

INSTALLATION

With variant A, simply cut a suitable cut-out in the kitchen worktop that is larger than the bowl of the sink and smaller than the overall size of the sink.
With variant B, the installation of the sink is more complex, as in addition to the normal cut-out, a rebate with a sink rim thickness must be routed around the cut-out. This ensures that the sink is flush with the worktop after installation.

With variant C, the installation of the sink is more complex. This variant is not suitable for all types of worktop and may require optional installation material. There is also more than one installation option. Installation under a solid wood worktop is shown here.

STEP 1

To remove, turn off the water supply at the wall connection (or the main valve).

For new installations (NI):
Determine the position
Ensure that the connections can be reached
Allow sufficient space for installation
When replacing (AT):
Check size of cut-out and new sink
2a. Remove old sink and tap if necessary
2b. Remove any silicone residue from the cut-out
If it is a new installation, the optimum position for the sink must first be determined. Make sure that the wall connections can be reached later and that there is sufficient space to install the water supply and drain on the sink.
If you are replacing an old sink, you must first check whether the new sink is large enough to cover the existing cut-out. The old sink can then be removed.

Prepare a bucket and open the siphon. Drain the water into the bucket and disconnect the drain pipe from the wall connection. If necessary, remove the hose to the dishwasher. Then unscrew the connection hoses of the mixer tap from the angle valves using a wrench.
Unscrew any existing retaining clips on the underside and remove the old sink upwards from the cut-out.
Remove the old tap beforehand if necessary. To do this, loosen the nut on the underside using an open-end wrench or a special tap wrench (the screw connection may vary).
Finally, carefully remove any silicone residue from the edges of the worktop using a spatula or cutter knife.

STEP 2

To install the undermount, first turn the worktop over so that the underside is facing upwards, then proceed as described in the following steps.

Mask off the approximate area with masking tape
Place the sink upside down
Hold the sink firmly and mark the corners
Measure the distance from the outer edge to the mounting edge
Move the distance inwards accordingly and connect markings with spirit level

Position the sink upside down with the rim on the masked area. Make sure that both the front and rear bars are not too narrow.
Use a folding rule to measure the distance to the front edge of the worktop, left and right of the sink. Hold the sink firmly and mark the four corners on the masking tape.
Remove the sink and measure the distance from the outer edge of the rim to the sink.
Remove the sink and measure the distance from the outer edge of the rim to the sink. Move the markings on the masking tape inwards at all four corners according to the measurement determined. Then connect the individual markings with a spirit level.

STEP 3

Once everything is marked out and fits, the cut-out can be made (For installation variant C, observe step 3.1!).
To do this, drill a hole with a 10 mm drill bit in all four corners of the cut-out (possibly less if you are extending an old cut-out). On the one hand, this defines the corner radius and on the other hand, the holes are needed to insert the saw blade.

Drill holes in all four corners
Saw out (NI)/extend (AT) the cut-out with the jigsaw
Drill holes for fittings if necessary

Saw open all four sides with the jigsaw (less if necessary for an extension) and carefully remove the cut-out from the panel.
Then mark the position for the fitting and cut it out with a hole drill.

STEP 3a

To adapt the partition wall, mark a cut-out that is approx. 1 cm wider on the left and right than the sink. The depth depends on whether the siphon or other parts of the connections protrude into the cut-out in the dividing wall.
If necessary, fit the drain once to determine the exact depth of the cut-out. After marking, saw out with a jigsaw.

If necessary, adapt an underlying partition wall Determine width and depthand saw out the cut-out
If the pool is larger than the space available in the base cabinet, it may be necessary to adapt the partition wall underneath. In this case, the holes for the fittings should only be drilled at the end.

STEP 3.1

Milling the rebate for recessing the sink
Milling the rebate and cut-out for under-mounting the sink
If the sink is to be flush with the worktop (B), it must be recessed. This also requires a rebate around the cut-out. The depth of this should correspond to the material thickness of the sink rim.
If the sink is to be installed under the worktop (C), it should also be recessed here, depending on the worktop thickness and type of attachment. a rebate is required around the cut-out.
For a clean result, it is recommended that you also create the cut-out with the router in this case.

No holes are required in the corners for milling the cut-out. Here, you can mill directly using a suitable router bit with a diameter corresponding to the inside radius of the sink bowl. To be able to mill a straight and accurately fitting edge, it is essential to work with an appropriate stop.
For the rebate, first connect the four outer corners marked on the masking tape using a spirit level.
If necessary, place the sink on top again to check the marked corners.

STEP 4

Sand down the edges of the cut-outs Seal all cut edges with silicone (A/B), use oil or varnish for real wood and Stone if necessary

The edges of the cut-outs should now be sealed to prevent water from penetrating and swelling. To do this, sand down any unevenness and sharp edges.

Installation variant A and B:
Then apply silicone to the cut edges and spread with a spatula so that the entire cut edge is sealed. If necessary, use worktop oil on solid wood or stone.

Installation variant C:
Do not seal the visible edge with silicone. Use oil or varnish here (depending on the panel surface).

STEP 5

Turn the sink over and place it on work trestles.

Install drain with siphon on the sink

Insert the drain from the inside and screw it on from the outside. Screw the downpipe and siphon to the drain and attach the flexible drain hose. Attach the reducer for the wall connection to the end of the drain hose.
Finally, the side overflow must be screwed onto the sink with a screwdriver and the hose attached to the downpipe.

STEP 6

With installation variant B, the silicone can be applied in the rebate. Here too, an even line must be applied without gaps and all the way around.
For installation variant C, the sink must be rotated. The silicone is then applied to the top of the sink rim. Care should be taken to ensure that it is applied evenly and at a distance of 3-5 mm from the outer edge, all the way round and without gaps. This prevents silicone from spilling out in places when it is inserted.

Apply sealant/gasket

STEP 7

Once the silicone has been applied, remove the masking tape from the edge of the cut-out and the sink can be carefully turned over and inserted into the cut-out.
Then weight the sink down evenly and allow the silicone to cure for at least 24 hours.
With variant C, the sink is carefully placed on top of the cut-out instead of in it.

Remove masking tape Carefully insert and align the sink Weight down and allow the silicone to harden

With variant C, the sink is not inserted into the cut- out, but carefully placed on top of the cut-out. It is then additionally secured with brackets (not included in the scope of delivery). Then turn the worktop over again and place it on top.

STEP 7.1

Once the sink has been installed, a silicone joint can optionally be drawn around the entire sink to seal the edge of the sink. To do this, it is recommended that masking tape is applied neatly and straight around the edge of the sink at a distance of approx. 2-3 mm. This makes it easier to smooth out the silicone and creates a clean and sharp silicone edge when it is removed.

Tape around the sink Draw a silicone joint around the sink

STEP 8

Fitting the taps
Fitting the connection hoses
Connecting the siphon

For installation variant D, the tap must be installed first. Screw the flex hoses into the tap and the tap can be fitted to the sink. If necessary, then attach accessories such as soap/detergent dispensers.

After the sink has been glued, the connection hoses (flex hoses) of the mixer tap can now be screwed to the wall with the angle valves. Make sure that the seal is inserted!
Tighten by hand and finally tighten with a wrench.
Then insert the reducer on the drain hose into the wall connection. We recommend applying a little lubricant to the reducer beforehand. Make absolutely sure that the hose is not kinked or stretched too much. The reducer should not slip too easily into the seal of the wall connection. If necessary, insert the reducer one step deeper.
If a dishwasher is also to be connected to the siphon, an alternative drainage system (not included in the scope of delivery) may need to be installed, as an additional connection is required for the waste water hose of the dishwasher.

STEP 9

Once the inlets and outlets have been installed, the water can be turned on at the corner valves. It is advisable to place a bucket under the water connections and siphon beforehand. Once the water has been turned on, the screw connection of the flexible hoses on the corner valves should be observed for some time. In the meantime, turn on the tap as well. Also check the siphon and the waste water connection for leaks. In particular, check the connections to make sure they are really tight. If necessary, the connections must also be sealed with thread sealing tape.