DAYLIFF POOLCHLOR Salt Water Chlorinators Installation Guide
- June 6, 2024
- DAYLIFF
Table of Contents
DAYLIFF POOLCHLOR Salt Water Chlorinators
OVERVIEW
Congratulations on selecting a Dayliff PoolChlor Salt Water Chlorinator. They are manufactured to the highest standards and if installed and operated correctly will give many years of tneicfeand trouble free service. Careful reading of this Installation Manual is therefore important, though should there be any queries they should be referred to the equipment supplier.
EQUIPMENT SPECIFICATIONS
Salt Water Chlorination is now well established as an effective method of swimming pool sanitization. Chlorinators work on the electrolysis process whereby salt in the water is separated into its basic elements which release chlorine gas into the water. Benefits include;
Improved water quality;
Due to the consistent chlorine dosage and lack of residue, water quality is
much better than that achieved by using conventional dry chlorine compounds.
Simple Operation;
Once installed there is nothing to do – simply switch on and forget about pool
chlorination.
Free Chlorine;
No more chlorine bills – the unit will pay for itself in about a year.
Improved swimming pleasure;
Saltwater chlorinated water puts an end to sore, red eyes and smelly, itchy
ski
Dayliff PoolChlor is a high-performance, high specification unit that includes the controller, a separate long life electrolysis cell and a flow sensor.
The cell is connected on the pool return line in series with the pool pump for tandem operation. Features include;
- Digital display and LED indicators
- Self-cleaning cell
- Adjustable chlorine output
- No flow detection and shutdown
- High and low salt indication
- Salinity level indication
- Water temperature indication
Dayliff PoolChlor is a highly effective and efficient pool chlorinator that once fitted\ will give many years of consistent pool pleasure.
APPLICATION
For general use, pools should be dosed with chlorine at 3gms/m /day and at
the PoolChlor output of 30 gms/hr and 50gms/hr. This will be achieved in 10
hrs and 6hrs respectively for a 100m pool.
The PoolChlor should be pro-rated for other pools size up to a maximum recommended capacity of 150m in low bathing load and lower temperature applications, pool pump operating petriod being set to give the required daily chlorine dosage levels. For optimal water quality, a variable speed pool pump is recommended that can be set to run continuously at low speed at reduced chlorine output levels. This is energy efficient and maintains a stable residual chlorine level in the pool . With PoolChlor no other chemical dosage is necessary other than to control water chemistry balance. It is also recommended that a pool stabilizer is used to optimize chlorine demand.
Model| Power(W)| Chlorine Production(g/hr)| Pool Volume (m
3 )| Weight (kg)
---|---|---|---|---
Poolchlo30| 180| 30| 115| 9
Poolchlo50| 240| 50| 150| 9
INSTALLATION LAYOUT
OPERATING PRINCIPLES
There are three main components to the PoolChlor system: the Control Unit, the Electrolytic Cell and the Flow Switch.
Control Unit : Supplies power to the cell and provides control of the system’s operation.
Electrolytic Cell: Creates chlorine as the water inside passes through and returns to the pool. The Electrolytic Cell (“Cell”) contains a number of titanium plates that use a low level of electrical power to generate chlorine from salt in the water. The Cell comes with unions to connect to the plumbing; each union has a threaded collar that secures the Cell to the unions, and enables the Cell to be easily removed for cleaning and inspection purposes.
Flow Switch: This component detects the water flow in the pipe and protects the system.
WATER CHEMISTRY
As with any pool, it is important that proper water chemistry of the pool water is maintained, including pH, alkaline content and calcium levels. The only special requirement for the poolchlor is to maintain proper levels of salt and stabilizer. It is important to maintain these levels in order to prevent corrosion or scaling and to ensure maximum enjoyment of the pool. Water should be tested periodically. It is recommended that pool water be professionally tested a minimum of twice per season. See the table below for ideal chemical levels in the pool.
| Swimming Pools| Spas
---|---|---
Free Chlorine| 1.0 to 3.0 ppm| 3.0 to 5.0 ppm
Salinity| 3000 to 4000pm| 3000 to 4000pm
pH| 7.2 to 7.8| 7.2 to 7.8
Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer)| 60 to 80 ppm| 60 to 80 ppm
Total Alkalinity| 80 to 120 ppm| 80 to 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness| 200 to 400 ppm| 150 to 450 ppm
Saturation Index| -0.2 to 0.2| -0.2 to 0.2
Use only evaporated, granulated, non-iodized salt (Sodium Chloride). The purer the salt (at least 99%), the longer the life and performance of the Electrolytic Cell .
WARNING
DO NOT add chemicals or salt directly to the skimmer. This may damage the
cell.
If the Electrolytic Cell has already been installed, it should not be turned on before adding salt. For pools, it is best to empty the required salt into the shallow end of the pool and run the filter and pump simultaneously in order to circulate the water and dissolve the salt (the chlorinator is to remain off during this time period).\
Do not throw the salt bag into the water as chemicals and inks on the bag can interfere with water balance.
Salt may take 24 – 48 hours to dissolve. Finer granules of salt will dissolve
faster than compressed pellets.
Ensure good salt quality 99% pure NaCl may be used. Avoid using salt with
anti- caking agents (Sodium Ferrocyanide, also known as YPS or Yellow
Prussiate of Soda) that could cause discoloration of fittings and surface
finishes in pool. Do not use Calcium Chloride as a source of salt. Do not use
Rock Salt; insoluble impurities mixed with the rock salt can shorten the life
of the unit.
Salt Levels:
The system can work within a broad salinity range, from a minimum of 3000 ppm
(parts per million), up to 4000 ppm. However, the ideal level for operation is
about 3400 ppm. To achieve this level of salinity, add 3.4 kgs of salt/m of
water or 3.4kgs per 1000 litres of water.
NOTE:
When adding large quantities of salt, start with an independent test of the
existing salinity level and add in portions, retesting at each stage.
Also it is most important to estimate pool volume in m . This being the product of length x width x average depth in metres.
Pool Capacity in m (1000 litres) of water = Length x Width x Average
Depth
Before adding salt, check pool water for any existing salt content and add
according to the chart below. If too little salt is added, the result will be
reduced
efficiency and a low level of chlorine production. In addition, operation at
low salt levels will reduce the longevity of the cell. Salt in the pool is
constantly recycled, and the loss of salt throughout the swimming season
should be small.
This loss is due primarily to the addition of extra water to replace water
lost from splashing, backwashing and draining. Salt is not lost due to
evaporation.
Salt Weight (kgs) needed for 3400 PPM of Pool water
Current Salt
Level ppm
| 40m 3| 60m 3| 80m 3| 100m 3
---|---|---|---|---
200| 128| 192| 256| 320
600| 112| 168| 224| 280
1000| 96| 144| 192| 240
1400| 80| 120| 160| 200
1800| 64| 96| 128| 160
2200| 48| 72| 96| 120
2600| 32| 48| 64| 80
3000| OK| OK| OK| OK
3400| Ideal| Ideal| Ideal| Ideal
3800| OK| OK| OK| OK
4200| High| High| High| High
4400| Dilute| Dilute| Dilute| Dilute
EQUIPMENT CELL INSTALLATION
The following are basic plumbing instructions for a typical installation, which entail positioning the Flow Switch and Cell adjacent to each other on 2″ plumbing. Install using unions provided, tighten by hand for a water-tight seal.
CAUTION:
Ensure that the pool pump and all AC power is turned off before
installation.
Flow Switch:
To ensure proper operation, verify that the arrow on the woswitch (located on the side) points in the same direction of the water.
The Flow Switch and Cell are to be fitted into the return line as the last
pieces of equipment the water passes through before returning to the pool: i.e
always after the pump, filter, heater (if applicable), etc. If a heater is
present, all equipment must be at a minimum distance away, according to the
heater manufacturer’s recommendations (see Fig 2).
Layout the equipment to ensure there is enough pipe space available.
- When positioning the Flow Switch, ensure at least 30cm of straight pipe before the Flow Switch. If installed after the Electrolytic Cell, the Cell provides this space. The raised arrow on the black plastic cap must be pointed in the direction of water flow as it returns to the pool. If installed horizontally, ensure that the wire-side faces upwards. The Flow Switch is approximately 100mm in length; a typical gap required is 30mm.
- When positioning the Cell, consider the side of the cell with the cord as the “inlet” side. If installed horizontally, ensure that the wire- side faces upwards. From end to end, the Cell with both unions is approximately 40cms length; a typical gap required is 35cms.
CAUTION:
Double-check that all Cell and Flow Switch cables can reach the Control
Panel. For installation with 1 ½” plumbing, use 2” to 1 ½” reducer bush with
switch, and use alternate 1 ½” Cell Unions; be sure to note any new or
additional measurements before cutting pipe.
Water Flow
After determining the section of plumbing to install the Flow Switch and Cell, measure out and mark the selected area.
-
To install the Flow Switch, cut out a section of pipe at the desired installation location. Use PVC Primer to clean and prepare the pipe ends and interior of Flow Switch. Using plumbing Solvent Cement, glue the Flow Switch to the pipe ends. Ensure excess glue does not become affixed to movable parts within Flow Switch.
CAUTION
To ensure proper operation, verify that the arrow on the woswitch (located on the black plastic) points in the direction of water ow. The water womust depress the hinged activator inside of the Flow Switch.
This portion is threaded and may be turned during service; additional thread seal tape may be added if necessary. -
To install the Cell unions, cut out a section of pipe at the desired installation location. Clean parts and plumbing with PVC Primer to prepare the pipe ends and interior of unions. Place the threaded collars over the pipe ends. Using plumbing Solvent cement, glue one union to the pipe end.
-
Hold the Cell and second union up to the first, to gauge the correct distance before gluing the second union to the remaining pipe end. Allow sufficient time for glue to dry.
Ensure that the O-rings are fitted to the unions. Place the Electrolytic Cell
between the unions and tighten the collars onto the Cell. For a watertight
seal, do not over-tighten the collars, and only tighten them by hand.
When using a Variable Speed Pump on a low speed setting, the cell should be
inverted in order to ensure adequate flow & efficient chlorine production, as
shown in Fig 3 below
Control Unit：
The PoolChlor control unit must be mounted a minimum of 1.5m horizontal
distance (or more if local codes require) from the pool/spa. The control is
designed to mount vertically on a flat surface facing downwards. The back of
the enclosure also acts as a heat sink (disperses heat from inside the box),
hence it is important not to block the back sides of the control unit.
Overview:
Using screws, secure the control unit mounting at a comfortable level on a
wall or vertical support, at least 1m above ground level. Minimize direct
exposure to rain, sunlight, water runoff, and lawn sprinkler systems. As with
most electronics, avoid placing the controls in tightly enclosed spaces to
avoid a build-up of excess heat. For operation, the control unit may be wired
in to the pump’s power source so that both turn on and off together, or
energized continuously for use with variable speed pumps (Flow switch will
control Cell power but lights will remain on).
WARNING:
Do not operate the unit until all salt is dissolved in pool water.
Wiring:
Power must be shut off at the circuit breaker before performing any wiring. Be
sure to follow local and electrical regulations. The system has been designed
to easily wire into typical in- ground pool systems. To provide safe
operation, the unit must be properly grounded and bonded.
Earthing:
A lug used for earthing is attached to the bottom of the Control Unit. The
Control Unit must be earthed with an 8mm AWG copper wire to the pool earthing
system.
Wiring to Power Source:
The Control Unit comes with an un-terminated Power Cord (AC Input) which is
typically connected to an external timer, which will turn the pump and Control
Unit on and off together. Have the Control Unit wired to the load side of the
timer by a qualified person? See figure 5 for typical wiring.\
NOTE
The unit is shipped from the factory with a 240V .noitarug.
When used with variable-speed or other electronically controlled pumps, the Control Unit can be connected directly to the power source. This will allow the pump to determine when the Cell is energized or dormant by activation of the Flow Switch.
At this point, equipment installation is complete. If the water has not yet been prepared then salt should be added to balance water chemistry. Turn the Control Unit to the Power Off mode until enough salt has been added to the water.
VOLTAGE CONVERSION:
Always double-check the voltage of the power source. Connection to improper
voltage can: a) cause severe damage/harm, or b) cause lights and screen to
power on without system function. All service should only be done by a person
with appropriate electrical skills, with all equipment disconnected from
power.
This set of terminal screws can be located inside of the Control Unit, and accessed by removing the four screws from the Control Unit’s aluminum base. The factory voltage setting is the 240V configuration, with a jumper clip inserted between the second and third terminals.
INSTALLATION CHECKLIST:
- Cell unions were installed and glued into the pipework.
- Threaded collars on either side of the Cell are hand tight.
- Flow Switch is installed and oriented properly.
- The Control Unit is affixed to the wall and wired correctly.
- Cell cable and Flow Switch are connected to the control unit.
- Checked and confirmed that control unit switches ON and OFF concurrently with filter pump, or is energized continuously for use with variable speed pump.
- Checked all connections and joints for leaks.
- Sufficient salt has been added and fully dissolved and circulated throughout the pool water.
- The pool has properly balanced water chemistry.
Initial Start-Up:
Switch on the pool pump (or timer controls). This should activate the system,
and within moments the green LED lights for “Power” and “Generating” should be
illuminated. During this time “No-Flow” light may flash up to 60 seconds as
the pump begins its operation. To find the optimum Chlorine output setting,
start at a setting of 70% and adjust as needed over the initial start up
period. Measure available chlorine in the pool after two or three days, and
adjust the Chlorine output level accordingly.
If the available chlorine is too high, lower the Output level; if the available chlorine is too low, raise the Output level. It will take a few adjustment to find the ideal setting Once determined, it should only take minor adjustments throughout the season.
EQUIPMENT OPERATION
Understanding the operation of the PoolChlor unit will ensure maximum performance. There are three factors whose control directly contribute to the amount of chlorine the unit will generate:
- The chosen percentage of Chlorine output.
- Hours of pump run- time each day.
- Water chemistry balance, including the amount of salt in the pool, and chemicals that minimize chlorine demand, such as stabilizer level in the water. See “Water chemistry” information on page 3.
After making the initial adjustments to the Chlorine Output level, additional adjustments are only necessary due to changing seasonal temperatures, or changes in bather load. Ensure that the pump runs long enough each day to turnover at least twice the pool water volume. This is more than sufficient amount of time for chlorination of the pool, but if the pool has high chlorine demand, running the pool pump longer allows for more chlorination. Measure the water chemistry and chlorine level on a regular basis.
CONTROL BUTTONS
-
Power: Use this button to manually power the system ON or OFF.
-
Salinity: Displays the average measurement of the most recent salinity levels in the pool water. The average is constantly being updated by real-time salinity readings.
NOTE:
When installed, this reading may display the last salinity readings taken at the factory. This average will begin to update with your pool’s operation over the tsr24 hours. -
Super CL: Temporarily boosts Chlorine output to maximum power for 24 hours, or until power is switched off.
-
Chlorine Output: Use the left/right arrow buttons to raise/lower the system’s power setting and thereby the rate of chlorine production.
-
Select: While in the Menu, the left/right arrows change options for Pool Temperature, Instant Salinity, and Cell Version.
-
Menu: Press sequentially to cycle through the following information:
Pool Temperature (in degrees celsius)
Cell Voltage (in many cases 21.0 to 27.0 when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 16-31V)
Cell Current (in many cases 2.50 to 7.80A when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0A during normal rest cycles.)
Real-Time Salinity reading ( xxxx ppm or x.x grams/Liter.)
System ID
Software revision level
Cell Version.
LED INDICATOR LIGHTS:
- Power: Located on the Power Button, this LED indicates that the Control Unit is receiving input power when illuminated.
- Generate : This LED is illuminated during normal operation, and indicates that the system is able to generate chlorine. When flashing, the pool water is either too hot or too cold for chlorine generation. This light may be off during rest periods of the systems’ duty cycle.
- Super CL : Located on the Super CL Button, this LED is illuminated when the Super CL mode is active.
- Remote: This part is controlled by a remote control system.
- Salinity: Located on the Salinity button, this LED is illuminated when the button has been pressed to display the salt level reading.
- No Flow: This LED is illuminated when the Flow Switch has detected no flow. This causes the Cell to stop generating chlorine. A flashing LED indicates that the flow is restored, but there will be a 60-second delay before generation is reestablished.
- Lo Salt: When this LED is flashing, the salt level is near to its minimum threshold, which is causing the Cell to operate at low efficiency. When this LED is illuminated steadily, the salt level is too low and the Cell has shut down. The salt level must be raised before the operation is restored. See “Adding Salt” for more information.
- Hi Salt: When this LED is flashing, the salt level is higher than necessary. When this LED is illuminated steadily, the salt level is too high and the Cell has shut down. The pool water must be diluted with fresh water before the operation is restored.
- C heck Cell: When this LED is illuminated, Cell efficiency is greatly reduced, or it is time for regularly scheduled Cell inspection. When illuminated, the Cell has stopped producing chlorine. The Electrolytic Cell should be inspected and cleaned (if necessary). Switch off power from the system, and inspect the Cell. If the mineral build-up is present, clean the Cell according to the instructions on page 15. If after inspection, the Check Cell light is still on after restoring power to the system, then cleaning is necessary even if mineral build-up wasn’t immediately visible to the eye. If illuminated after cleaning, Cell replacement may be necessary. This light takes priority over any salinity indicators.
CAUTION
Using the Power Button to turn the system OFF does not remove power from
the control box. Always disconnect power at the circuit breaker prior to
attempting any service procedure.
MAINTENANCE
To maintain maximum performance, it is recommended that the Cell is removed
and visually inspected at least every 3-4 months. The unit will indicate at
the appropriate time by flashing the “Check Cell” LED.
After inspecting the Cell and cleaning, if necessary press and hold the System
Status button next to the display for 5 seconds to reset the flashing “Check
Cell” LED.
The Electrolytic Cell has a self-cleaning feature incorporated into the
electronic control’s logic. In most cases, this self-cleaning action will keep
the cell working at optimal efficiency and help to inhibit mineral build-up.
In areas with very hard water (high calcium and/or mineral content), and in
pools with poor water chemistry, the cell may require more frequent cleaning
(see below). If the “Check Cell” LED remains on after a thorough cleaning, it
may require additional cleaning, or the cell may be at the end of its life
cycle and may require replacement.
Maintaining the Electrolytic Cell :
As a natural result of the electrolytic process which creates chlorine from
salt molecules, a white mineral build-up is attracted to the titanium plates
in the Cell. The self-cleaning feature helps to inhibit such build-up and
scaling. However, the attraction of minerals is inevitable, and eventually,
they should be removed. The Control Unit will illuminate the ” Cell” light
when such cleaning is necessary. With correct water chemistry, the Cell will
typically only need cleaning once or twice a season.
When removing the Cell for cleaning or replacement:
- Turn off all power, close return line valves if applicable.
- Unplug the cell cable connecting the Cell to the Control Unit.
- Unscrew threaded collars around the PVC piping that connect the Cell to the return line plumbing.
- Pull entire Cell away from the Unions.
CAUTION
DO NOT pull or hold the Cell by its cable.
To clean the Cell of mineral buildup:
- Attach Cleaning Cap (sold separately) and orient the Cell vertically. Place on the ground and stabilize so as to remain upright and prevent spilling.
- In a separate bucket, mix one-part of Hydrochloric acid into four parts water. Pour this weak acid solution directly into Cell. Ensure that the cleaning solution COMPLETELY fills the inside of the Cell.
- Allow the solution to soak for NO MORE THAN TEN MINUTES.
- Properly dispose of acid solution and use a hose to generously rinse the Cell.
- Reinstall Cell into PVC return line.
CAUTION
If mineral build-up is severe, more than one cleaning may be necessary to
dissolve the remaining solids. Cleaning the Cell is only necessary to remove
an excessive build-up of minerals on the plates. A light coating of minerals
does not impede performance. Excessive cleaning will reduce the lifespan of
the cell. If submerging the entire Cell assembly, do not allow the Cell cable
to be covered by liquid.
When cleaning the Cell always wear adequate protection, such as rubber gloves
and eye protection. Always add acid to water, do not add water to acid. Always
work in a well-ventilated area. Splashing or spilling acid can cause severe
injury and/or property damage.
Start-up:
When opening the pool after a period of inactivity, do not power on and use
the chlorine generator until the pool’s water chemistry has been balanced and
brought to ideal levels.
Replacing the Cell：
When the titanium blades inside the Electrolytic Cell have reached the end of
their lifespan, replacements are available so that the whole system does not
have to be removed. Replacements are easily switched out. To ensure quality
and value, only genuine replacement parts may be used. Bypass cells are
available and may be used to continue to run water through the plumbing
without the Electrolytic Cell in place.
HELPFUL NOTES:
Proper operation of the chlorine generator can be easily verified by checking
the lights on the control panel. However, if the pool remains cloudy, or the
chlorine residual tests low, then the chlorine being produced is being lost
due to high chlorine demand or improper water conditions.
To reduce the chlorine demand, check the pH and Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid)
reading. Check for phosphates and nitrates, which commonly contribute to
severe chlorine demand. If tests show positive, then a shock treatment with an
oxidizer agent is advised. Generally, super chlorination is not necessary if
the pool is maintained at the correct levels.
Recommended List:
- Read and keep this manual in a safe place.Ÿ
- Increase Chlorine Production when temperature increases.
- Increase Chlorine Production when a number of bathers increases.
- Use Stabilizer to prevent chlorine dissipation by the sun.
- Mount Control Unit in shade or out of the direct sunlight whenever possible.
- Decrease Chlorine Production when temperature decreases.
- Take a pool water samples to a Pool Professional at least once per month.
Not Recommended List:
- Do not allow fertilizer anywhere near your pool. Fertilizers are one of many sources that contain Nitrates or Phosphates which cause severe chlorine demand in pool water.
- Never use dry acid to adjust pH. A build-up of by-products can damage the Cell.
- Do not add any pool water balancing chemicals (including salt) unless the Control Unit is turned off.
- Do not add any chemicals including salt to the skimmers.
- Do not let salinity level drop below 3000 ppm.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem Solution
“Power” LED not on: Check input power is connected to the control. Be sure the jumpers are set properly. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter.Check fuse if blown. The board is protected by a 20 amp fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.
“Generating” LED flashing: The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by Pressing the button SUPER CHLORINATE. The chlorinator will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.
“No flow” LED illuminated or flashing: The chlorinator has sensed a no- flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure there is at least 30cms of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch are pointing in the direction of flow. If the light is flashing, the flow is established and t h e c h l o r i n a t o r w i l l t u r n o n w i t h i n 1 m i n u t e .
“Check Salt” LED illuminated or flashing: Check the salt level in the pool. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart on page 5. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level professionally checked.
“High Salt” LED illuminated or flashing: Check the salt level in the pool. If the salt level is too high, lower the salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.
“Check Cell” LED flashing: Inspect and clean cell according to directions. When done, press the “diagnostic” button for 3 seconds to stop the “Inspect Cell” LED flashing.
“Check Cell” LED illuminated: Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions on page 15 for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the “Inspect Cell” LED is still illuminated, the cell may be depleted and needs to be replaced.
Low Chlorine or no Chlorine:
- Switch on the chlorinator.
- Desired Level% adjustment setting is too low.
- Low stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid).Chlorine is being produced but the pool water is unable to hold on to the chlorine, due to low stabilizer.
- Filter pump switched off or filter pump time too short (8 hours for average size pools, more for large pools).
- Salt level too low (below 2500 ppm, Low Salt LED on). Add salt atleast 3000ppm.
- Salt level too high (high Salt LED on). Dilute pool water with fresh water and check salt level is 3000ppm
- Low pH. Low pH oxidizes chlorine quickly, making it difficult to maintain desired chlorine levels. Adjust pH levels to re-balance water.
- Warm pool water increases chlorine demand—increase Desired Level% or filter run time.
- Cold water (below 10 C) can cause PoolChlor to stop generating chlorine (Generating LED flashing).
- Excessive scaling on cell.
- High level of phosphates in pool water. Conduct shock treatment with an oxidation agent
Low Chlorine or no Chlorine:
Some yellow algae treatments will use chlorine at a very high rate and
deplete the residual free chlorine. Manually shock the pool if indicated in
the directions on the algae treatment. It still may be a matter of days before
the pool returns to “normal” and chlorine tests will show the desired 1-3ppm
free chlorine reading.
“PCB” displayed and all 4 LEDs are illuminated: A possible printed circuit board fault has been detected. Refer to authorized service provider.
TERMS OF WARRANTY:
General Liability
- In lieu of any warranty, condition or liability implied by law, the liability of Davis & Shirtliff (hereafter called the Company) in respect of any defect or failure of equipment supplied is limited to making good by replacement or repair (at the Company’s discretion) defects which under proper use appear therein and arise solely from faulty design, materials or workmanship within a specified period. This period commences immediately after the equipment has been delivered to the customer and at its termination all liability ceases. Also the warranty period will be assessed on the basis of the date that the Company is informed of the failure.
- This warranty applies solely to equipment supplied and no claim for consequential damages, however arising, will be entertained. Also the warranty specifically excludes defects caused by fair wear and tear, the effects of careless handling, lack of maintenance, faulty installation, incompetence on the part of the equipment user, Acts of God or any other cause beyond the Company’s reasonable control. Also, any repair or attempt at repair carried out by any other party invalidates all warranties.
Standard Warranty:
General Terms
If equipment failure occurs in the normal course of service having been
competently installed and when operating within its specified duty limits
warranty will be provided as follows:-
- Up to one year – The item will be replaced or repaired at no charge.
- Over 1 year, less than two year – The item will be replaced or repaired at a cost to the customer of 50% of the Davis & Shirtliff market price.
The warranty on equipment supplied or installed by others is conditional upon the defective unit being promptly returned free to a Davis & Shirtliff ecfo and collected thereafter when repaired. No element of site repair is included in the warranty and any site attendance costs will be payable in full at standard chargeout rates. Also proof of purchase including the purchase invoice must be provided for a warranty claim to be considered.
DAY LIFE is a brand of Davis & Shirtliff for inquiries contact:
Davis & Shirtliff, Ltd.
P.O. Box 41762 – 00100, Nairobi, Kenya
Tel: 6968000/ 0711 079 000
for details of the nearest branch or stockist