WIKING Miro 1 Side Gas and Wall Mount User Manual

Installation- and User’s Manual

INSTALLATION

In general

Congratulations on your new WIKING woodburning stove. We are pleased that you have cho­sen a WIKING woodburning stove and confidence that it will give you much pleasure. To ensure optimum operation and safety, we recommend that the installation should be carried out by an authorized WIKING retailer or a fitter recommended by the retailer. For an overview of WIKING retailers, visit www.wiking.com under “Retailer locations”.

Safety
The installation of your WIKING woodburning stove must always comply with all European, national, and local building regulations. The installation must be carried out in accordance with the instructions in the installation and user manuals and subsequently registered with the local authorities. Upon installation, the chimney sweep must approve the installation before you can start using the woodburning stove. All WIKING woodburning stove packaging material must be handled in accordance with local waste management regulations.

Room requirements
Always ensure a supply of fresh combustion air to the room where the stove is to be installed. The wood-burning stove uses approx. 8-21 m3 of air per hour. A window that can be opened or an adjustable air valve will be sufficient. It must not be possible to block the adjustable air valve/grate. In newly built/airtight dwellings, we recommend that a fresh air system should be installed for the direct supply of external air to the combustion. This fresh-air system may be bought separately.

Before installing the stove, you must ensure that the load-bearing capacity of the floor can withstand the weight of the stove and the chimney. The weight of the chimney should be cal­culated according to its dimensions and height.

Technical measures and data

Test results from nominal test EN 13240

Nominal heating effect| 4.9 kW
Flue gas temperature EN 13240 measurement point| 295°C
Flue gas temperature measured in the outlet socket| 326°C
Exhaust gas flow| 5.2 q/s
Efficiency| 78 %
Annual efficiency (EcoDesign)| 68 %
PM| 18.2 mg/m3
OGC| 66 mg/m3
NO2| 114 mg/m3
CO at 13% 02| 1125 mg/m3
CO at 13°/0 02| 0.09%
Energy efficiency index| 103
Energy efficiency class| A
Test result based on NS 3058|
Particle emissions| 3.05 g/kg

The declaration of performance (DoP) can be downloaded from our website, www.wiking.com.

35.6 cm
Miro 4 with lower door and natural stone cladding| 197 kg| 104.4 cm| 54.5 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 4 with wood store and tile cladding| 128 kg| 104.4 cm| 54.5 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 4 with lower door and tile cladding| 130 kg| 104.4 cm| 54.5 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 5 with wood store| 92 kg| 131.4 cm| 46.8 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 5 with lower door| 94 kg| 131.4 cm| 46.8 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 6 with wood store| 95 kg| 131.4 cm| 46.8 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 6 with lower door| 97 kg| 131.4 cm| 46.8 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 6 with wood store and natural stone cladding| 225 kg| 131.4 cm| 46.8 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 6 with lower door and natural stone cladding| 227 kg| 131.4 cm| 46.8 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 6 with wood store and tile cladding| 141 kg| 135.1 cm| 54.5 cm| 35.6 cm
Miro 6 with lower door and tile cladding| 143 kg| 135.1 cm| 54.5 cm| 35.6 cm
Heat storage stones, Miro 5+6 with lower door| 34 kg| | |

Floorplate European, national and local regulations must be observed in terms of the size and thickness of a non-combustible floor covering the floor in front of the combustion chamber opening. Ask your WIKING retailer for assistance. The combustion chamber opening is 35,2 cm wide.

Distance to combustible materials

Min. distances
– uninsulated flue gas pipe:| Miro 1 Miro 3 Miro 5| Miro 2
Miro 4
Miro 6| Miro 4 with
stone-/ tile cladding
Miro 6 with
stone-/ tile cladding
---|---|---|---
For combustible walls, back| 10 cm| 10 cm| 10 cm
For combustible walls, side| 52 cm| 31 cm| 31 cm
To the combustible wall, corner installation, 45°| 38 cm| 10 cm| 10 cm
the combustible floor under neith the stove| 7 cm| 7 cm|
Distance to furnishings in front| 90 cm| 90 cm| 90 cm

Applies only to WIKING Miro 1 and WIKING Miro 2. This distance requirement is observed when the wood-burning stove is mounted on a pedestal or a wall with the required distance below the wood-burning stove.

It is recommended to have a 10 cm distance to a brick wall back and side to facilitate the servi­cing of the Autopilot. For stoves with side glass, it is recommended to have a distance between the brick walls side.

Remember to pay attention to the applicable regulations concerning the required distance between the wall and the smoke pipe.

Please be aware that not all glass parts are heat-resistant. For this reason, a glass wall should sometimes be treated as a combustible wall, in which case we ask you to contact your local chimney sweep or glass producer to hear at what distance the stove should be kept from glass.

Requirements for chimney and smoke pipe

The height of the chimney must ensure sufficient draught and prevent any smoke nuisance. As a general rule, satisfactory drought conditions are achieved if the chimney is 4 m above the stove and at least 80 cm above the ridge. If the chimney is placed at sidewalls, the top of the chimney should always be higher than the ridge or the tallest point of the roof. Always be aware of any national and/or local regulations applying to thatched roofs and the location of the chimneys. r.

The wood-burning stove requires a minimum draught of 12 Pa (measured at EN 13240 mea­surement point). If measured just above the smoke flue socket, the chimney draught must be 18-20 Pa.

The chimney must have a minimum clearing of 0 150 mm. The chimney must be provided with an easily accessible cleaning door. The chimney and flue duct must be of flue class T400 and be CE marked. Furthermore, it must have obtained the classification of G in soot fire testing. The required distance to combustible material must be complied with in accordance with the brand label. Ask your WIKING retailer for further information.

Changing the Smoke Outlet from Top Outlet to Back Outlet (WIKING Miro 1 – Miro 4) Proceed as follows to change the smoke outlet from the top outlet to the rear outlet:

1. Lift the top plate off the stove.
2. Remove the smoke ring on the top of the stove by unscrewing the three screws and lifting it off.
3. There is a cut-out for the flue duct in the backplate. Break off the plate within this cut-out to make a hole that the flue duct can fit into.
4. Remove the cover plate on the back of the stove by unscrewing the three screws (Torx Bit 30) and lifting it off.
5. Install the cover plate on top of the stove with the three screws.
6. Place the smoke ring in the smoke outlet hole in the back of the stove and secure it with the three screws.
7. Replace the top plate on the stove.

A top flue blanking plate can be bought as an accessory to cover the hole in the top plate of the stove if the stove is connected to a back outlet.

Changing the Smoke Outlet from Top Outlet to Rear Outlet (WIKING Miro 5 – Miro 6) (drawing F)

Proceed as follows to change the smoke outlet from the top outlet to the rear outlet:

1. Lift the front (1) of the heat storage compartment up and forward, unhooking it from the four guide pins (2). Remove the bottom plate (3) in the heat storage compartment by lifting it up and forward.
2. Loosen and remove the three screws in the flue ring (4) at the bottom of the heat storage Remove the smoke ring.
3. There is a cut-out for the flue duct in the backplate. Break off the plate (5) within this cut-out to make a hole that the flue duct can fit into. It is recommended that you use a wire-cutter.
4. Remove the cover plate (6) in front of the smoke outlet at the rear of the stove by loosening and removing the three screws (7) (Torx Bit no. 30) and lifting it off.
5. Mount the cover plate (6) over the smoke outlet in the bottom of the heat storage compart­ment, using the three screws (7).
6. Place the smoke ring (4) in the smoke outlet hole in the back of the stove and secure it with the three screws.
7. Put the bottom plate (3) back in the heat storage compartment and hook the front (1) onto the four guide pins (2).

A top flue blanking plate can be bought as an accessory to cover the hole in the top plate of the stove if the stove is connected to a back outlet.

Connection to chimney

All the stoves have both back and top smoke outlets that can be connected to an approved steel chimney on top or directly out at the rear to a chimney.

Make sure that the chimney is tight and that no false draft is caused around neither the cover plate, in connection with a covered smoke outlet, nor the cleanout door and pipe connections.
Please note that bent and/or horizontal smoke pipes will reduce the effect of the chimney draft.

Vertical cross-section of the stoves (drawing A)

1. Steel smoke deflector.
2. Vermiculite smoke deflector.
3. Vermiculite rear plate.
4. Vermiculite corner plate.
5. Vermiculite side plate.
6. Bottom plate
7. Protection during transportation
8. Fittings

Please note: The combustion chamber is covered with plates made of vermiculite, which is a heat-insulating material. These plates ensure that the optimal combustion temperature is quickly reached, and they must therefore remain inside in the wood-burning stove.

The steel smoke deflector and the vermiculite smoke deflector ensure that the passage of smoke through the stove is as long as possible, so that the flue gasses have more time to emit their warmth within the stove and the surrounding area. In this way you get more warmth from the wood you add to the stove, as the warm smoke is not simply sent out through the chimney.

Fitting the loose parts

Before the stove is installed, you must ensure that all loose parts are fitted correctly. Check that all insulation plates of the combustion chamber have been properly placed, i.e. that the bottom plate is horizontal and that the side plates are vertical and reach all the way up to the steel sides of the combustion chamber and down to the bottom plate.

Vertical cross-section of the stoves (drawing A)

1. The steel baffle plate (1) is hung from two hooks and equipped with two pins (7) that serve as protection during transportation. Remember to remove the two pins before you start using the stove.
2. The vermiculite smoke deflector (2) plate must rest on the two fittings (8) at the top and front of the combustion chamber and must be pushed as far back as possible into the combu­stion chamber.
3. The rear plate (3) must be pushed all the way back in the combustion chamber.
4. The cast-iron bottom plate (6) should lie flat in the bottom of the combustion chamber.

Chimney
The chimney is the “engine” of the stove and it is crucial for the functioning of the woodburning stove. The chimney draft provides a partial vacuum in the stove. This vacuum removes the smoke from the stove, sucks air through the dampers for the so-called glass pane rinse which keeps the glass free of soot, and sucks in air through both primary and secondary dampers for the combustion.

The chimney draft is created by the differences in temperature inside and outside the chimney. The higher the temperature within the chimney, the greater the draft. It is crucial, therefore, that the chimney is warmed up properly before closing the damper and limiting the combustion in the stove (a brick chimney takes longer to warm up than a steel chimney). On days where the wea­ther and wind conditions create insufficient draught inside the chimney, it is even more important to warm up the chimney as quickly as possible. The trick is to quickly get some flames going. Split the wood into extra fine pieces, use an extra firelighter, etc.

If the stove has not been used for a longer period, it is important to check that the chimney pipe is not blocked.
t is possible to connect several devices to the same chimney. However, it is important to first check the applicable rules.

Chimney sweeping
To prevent the risk of chimney fires, the chimney must be cleaned every year. The flue duct and the smoke chamber above the baffle plate must be cleaned together with the chimney. If the chimney is too tall to be cleaned from above, it must be equipped with a soot door.
In case of a chimney fire, close all dampers and call the firefighters. Before any further use, have the chimney checked by the chimney sweeper.

The type badge and the serial number (Drawing C)

On WIKING Miro 1/Miro 2 the type badge and serial number are glued onto an extension plate located on the left side next to the locking hook.
On WIKING Miro 3/Miro 4/Miro 5/Miro 6 the type badge and the serial number are placed on the inside of the door below the combustion chamber.

FIRING MANUAL – WOOD

Your first heating session
The lacquer will be fully hardened after the stove has been used, and the door and the ashpan should be opened very carefully as there will otherwise be a risk that the gaskets will stick to the lacquer. In addition, the lacquer may initially give off an unpleasant odor, so make sure that the room is well ventilated.

Warning: The accompanying glove may wear the surface paint off. Be careful not to touch the varnished surfaces the first two to three times you light the fire. Even after the paint has hardened, repeated use of the glove may wear the surface paint off.

Tips about fuel

Approved fuel types
The wood-burning stove is EN approved for combustion of wood only. It is recommended to use dried chopped wood with a water content of a maximum of 18%. Stoking a fire with wet wood results in soot, environmental problems, and a less efficient fuel economy.

Recommended wood types
All types of wood, for instance, birch, beech, oak, elm, ash, conifers, and fruit trees can be used as fuel in your insert. The great difference is not in the fuel value but in the weight of the wood types per cubic meter. Beech weighs more per m3 of wood than common spruce, for instance. This is why more common spruce is required, in terms of volume, to obtain an amount of heat similar to that of beech. Heavy types of wood such as ash, beech, oak, and elm are generally not that easy to light up. In addition, they burn more slowly and give off more embers. Light types of wood such as birch, maple, spruce, and pine are easier to light up. They burn faster and give off fewer ambers. You may therefore take advantage of the light types of wood for lighting and use the heavier types of wood to ensure a longer burning time..

Banned fuel types
It is not allowed to stoke a fire with the following: printed matter, plywood, plastic, rubber, fluid fuels, and rubbish such as milk cartons, lacquered wood or impregnated wood, and fossil fuels. The reason that you should not apply any of the above is that during combustion they develop substances that are health hazardous and harmful to the environment. These substances could also damage your wood-burning stove and chimney, rendering the product warranty void.

Storage of wood
A moisture content of 12-18% is achieved by storing recently felled wood outdoors under a lean-to for at least one year, preferably 2 years. Wood stored indoors has a tendency to be­come too dry and combust too quickly. However, it might be advantageous to store the fuel for lighting a fire indoors for a few days prior to use.

It is recommended to purchase a wood moisture meter to continuously check that the firewood has the correct moisture content before using it for firing. Split the wood and measure the mois­ture content of the split surfaces.

Recommended dimensions
The dimensions of the fuel are important to good combustion. The dimensions should be as follows:

Using the Air Damper
To achieve good combustion, which results in better heating efficiency, it is important to add the right amount of air to the fire. Air is regulated with a user-friendly, one-lever system that is located under the stove door; see drawing D.
When lighting a cold stove and when fuelling with new wood, the regulating lever must be pu­shed to the extreme left to give the fire maximum air supply. When the fire is burning well, the air supply can be gradually reduced by moving the regulating lever to the right.
The fire will die out if the regulating lever is moved to the extreme right. This setting should only be used in the case of overheating, if there is a fire in the chimney, and when the fire in the stove has been allowed to go out completely in connection with cleaning, for instance.

Special fire lighting guide for stoves with stone and tile cladding
Stone are natural products that need to adjust to temperature changes. We recommend following the procedure below:

1. First stoking
   Move the air control lever to the extreme left to fully open the air supply to the combustion chamber. Place two pieces of wood (5-8 cm in diameter) horizontally in the bottom of the combustion compartment (corresponding to 1-2 kg). Place 5-8 pieces of kindling randomly on top. Place 2 firelighters between the top layer of kindling. Light up the fire-lighters and close the stove door. If condensation forms on the glass, keep the door ajar for a little while and close again. When the fire has gone out, open the door and leave it open while the stove cools to room temperature.

2. Second stoking
   Move the air control lever to the extreme left to fully open the air supply to the combustion chamber. Place two pieces of wood (5-8 cm in diameter) horizontally in the bottom of the com­bustion compartment (corresponding to 1-2 kg). Place 5-8 pieces of kindling randomly on top. Place 2 firelighters between the top layer of kindling. Light up the fire-lighters and close the stove door. If condensation forms on the glass, keep the door ajar for a little while and close again. When there are no more visible yellow flames, and a right ember is there, you can fire again. The layer of embers is suitable when the pieces of wood begin to disintegrate and the bottom of the stove is covered by embers. Carefully open the door to prevent smoke and em­bers from escaping. Place 2 pieces of new firewood (up to 1-2,5) with a diameter of approx. 7-9 cm in the combustion chamber. When all of the wood has caught fire, the air supply can be gra­dually reduced by moving the air control lever to the right until uniform, steady combustion is achieved. Allow the fire to burn and let the stove cool to room temperature before stoking again.

3. Third stoking
   Repeat the procedure for the second stoking. Allow the fire to burn and let the stove cool to room temperature after the fire has gone out.

Restoking
Follow the general instructions, see the sections “Lighting the stove” and “Stoking”.

Lighting the stove
A successful combustion process requires that the wood is lit in the right way. A cold stove and a cold chimney challenge the combustion process. Be careful to make good lighting with suitably dry wood, using kindling and lighting the fire in the top layers of kindling. It is important to achieve a high flue gas temperature quickly.

Move the air control lever to the extreme left to fully open the air supply to the combustion chamber. Place two pieces of wood (5-8 cm in diameter) horizontally in the bottom of the combustion compartment (corresponding to 1-2 kg). Place 5-8 pieces of kindling randomly on top. Place 2 firefighters between the top layer of kindling. Light  up the
fire-lighters and close the stove door. If condensation forms on the glass, keep the door ajar for a little while and close again. When all of the wood has caught fire, the air supply can be gradually reduced by moving the air control lever to the right until uniform, steady combustion is achieved.

Important! The ash pan must not be opened during the lighting stage and must always be kept closed when the stove is lit or the WIKING® Automatic™ might be damaged. Only open the door when lighting the stove, refueling it, and cleaning it. Never leave a stove before there are lasting flames in the wood after firing!

Stoking
When there are no more visible yellow flames, and a right ember is there, you can fire again. The layer of embers is suitable when the pieces of the wood begin to disintegrate and the bottom of the stove is covered by embers. Carefully open the door to prevent smoke and embers from escaping. Place 2 pieces of chopped firewood (approx. 1-2.5 kg) on top of the embers. The firewood should not be stacked higher than up to the “MAX” mark in the vermiculite rear plate. Close the door again and fully open the air supply by moving the regulating lever to the extreme left.When the wood has caught fire properly, the air supply can be gradually reduced by moving the air control lever to the right until
uniform, steady combustion is achieved. The further to the right the air control lever is moved, the less heat the stove will give off. But it is important not to regulate the air supply below a level at which there are still visible flames and steady combustion.

During combustion, the outer surfaces of the stove will become hot, and due care must therefore be shown.

When burning is complete
When the stove is not in use, turn the air control lever all the way to the right.

Cleaning the glass
We recommend wiping the glass after a fire. This is best done using a paper towel.

Fuelling with coal or pet coke
The stove is not approved to use coal or pet coke as fuel.

FIRING IN GENERAL

Rapid or fierce heat
Rapid or fierce heat is obtained by burning many small pieces of wood.

Maximum amounts of fuel:
The maximum allowed amount of fuel per hour is: Wood: 2.5 kg

If these limits are exceeded, the stove will no longer be covered by the factory guarantee, and it may also become damaged due to excessive heat, the glass may turn white, for example. The stove has been approved for intermittent use.

Typical re-firing interval
Typical re-firing interval at nominal performance Wood: 45 min (1.2 kg)

Prolonged burning time
You will obtain the longest burning time if you reduce the air supply to an absolute minimum when the flames are dying, as this will prolong the ember phase. When you add new firewood, set the air supply at about 40% to allow the wood to catch fire.

How to achieve the best combustion

• Use clean and dry wood
  Wet wood results in inefficient combustion, plenty of smoke, and soot. Furthermore, the heat will dry the wood, not heat up the room.

• The fire should only be stoked with a little wood at a time
  You achieve the best combustion by starting up a fire often and using only a little wood. If you use too much firewood, it will take some time before the temperature reaches a level where you achieve good combustion.

• Make sure there is the right amount of air
  You should also make sure that there is plenty of air — especially in the beginning – so the temperature in the wood-burning stove climbs quickly. In this way, the gasses and particles released during the combustion will be consumed by the fire. Otherwise, they build up soot in the chimney (constituting a chimney fire risk) or will be released in a non-combusted state into the environment. The wrong amount of air supply creates inefficient combustion and a modest effect.

• Don’t savor the fire during night time
  We advise against adding firewood to your stove and reducing the air supply at night in an attempt to still have some embers left in the morning. If you do so, large amounts of hazardous smoke will be emitted, and your chimney will be exposed to unnecessarily large amounts of soot with the risk of a chimney fire.

MAINTENANCE

Cleaning
Any maintenance of the stove should only be carried out when it is cold. Daily maintenance is limited to vacuum cleaning the stove externally, using the soft brush attachment. You can also dust the stove using a dry, soft cloth or brush. But remember, only when the stove is cold. Do not use water, spirit or any other kind of cleaner, as this will damage the lacquer.
Once a year, the stove should be thoroughly serviced. The combustion chamber should be cleared of ashes and soot. The hinges and the closing hook must be greased with liquid cop­per fat spray (heat-resistant up to 1100°C). Lift the door approx. ‘A cm and spray copper fat onto the hinge leaf.

Service inspection
Your stove should be given a thorough, preventive inspection once every two years. This includes:

• Thorough cleaning of the stove.
• Checking the spring in the WIKING® AutomaticTm. Replace if necessary.
• Checking gaskets. Replace gaskets if they are not intact or are no longer soft.
• Checking and/or replacing insulation material.
• Checking the combustion chamber base.
• Use copper grease for hinges and locking hooks

All service checks must be performed by an authorized fitter. Use only original spare parts.

Inside cleaning
Before chimney sweeping can be performed, the air control lever must be set to its minimum position to prevent soot and ash from entering the WIKI NG® AutomaticTM. Unless the safety fittings for transportation (2 split pins) have not already been removed, start by removing the split pins (drawing A, 7). First remove ash and soot from the combustion chamber. In drawing E you can see which plates are found inside the combustion chamber. Carefully remove the vermiculite plates, one after the other, in the following sequence:

1. Smoke deflector (top plate)
2. Rear plate
3. Left corner plate
4. Right corner plate
5. Left side plate
6. Right side plate

After cleaning, carefully put the vermiculite plates back in place in the reverse order starting with the rear plate.

Ashes
It is easiest to empty the ash pan by pulling a plastic bag over it, turning it upside down, and then carefully removing it from the bag. Ashes are disposed of via the domestic waste col­lection.

Please note that there may be embers in the ashes for up to 24 hours after the fire has gone out!

Insulation
The efficient, but porous insulation of the combustion chamber may, in time, be worn and da­maged. Cracks in the insulation are irrelevant to the efficiency of the stove. A crack in the backplate can cause secondary air to become incorrectly distributed in the combustion chamber, and it should therefore be replaced. However, it should be replaced, if there are actual holes due to parts of the lining falling off or when due to wear and tear, it has been reduced to less than half its original thickness.

WIKING®Automatic™
The spring in the automatism should be controlled at least once every second year.

WIKING Miro 1-4 (Drawing 61): Lift the top plate off the stove. Remove the two screws (1) in the top of both side playmates. Open the door to the wood section and remove the screw (2) on both sides (applies only to WIKING Miro 3-4). Remove both side plates. Remove the rear plate of the stove. On a cold stove, the starting point of the feeler is controlled. The starting point on a cold stove is about 10° above horizontal. It should feel easygoing and bouncy when you push it, no matter if the stove is cold or hot. Mount the rear plate, the side plates, and the top plate again.

WIKING Miro 5-6 (Drawing G2): Lift the top plate off the stove. Lift the front (1) of the heat storage compartment up and forward, unhooking it from the four guide pins (2). Loosen the two screws (4) at the top on all sides of the heat storage compartment. Remove the bottom plate (3) in the heat storage compartment by lifting it up and forward. Remove the screw (5) on both sides of the heat storage compartment. Open the door to the wood section and remove the screw (6) on both sides. Remove both side plates. Remove the rear plate of the stove.

On a cold stove, the starting point of the feeler is controlled. The starting point on a cold stove is about 10° above horizontal. It should feel easygoing and bouncy when you push it, no matter if the stove is cold or hot. Re-mount the rear plate, the side plates, the bottom plate in the heat storage compartment, the front of the heat storage compartment, and the top plate.

WIKING Miro 4/WIKING Miro 6 with soapstone cover (Drawing G3): Remove the rear plate of the stove. On a cold stove, the starting point of the feeler is controlled. The starting point on a cold stove is about 10° above horizontal. It should feel easygoing and bouncy when you push it, no matter if the stove is cold or hot. Remount the rear plate.

Door/glass
A sooty glass door can easily be cleaned with a piece of moist kitchen roll dipped in ash. Go about it in vertical movements (up and down). Follow up with a dry piece of kitchen roll. You should also ensure that air gaps in the door frame are free of ash and soot particles.

Seals
Check frequently to ensure that seals in the door and ash pan are intact and not brittle. Failing this, they should be replaced. Use original seals only.

Surface
Usually, it is not necessary to any treatment to the painted surfaces of the wood-burning stove. Any damage to the paint may, however, be remedied with spray paint, which can be bought from your stove retailer.

Guarantee
The guarantee does not cover damage due to insufficient maintenance!

Declaration of Performance

The DoP can be downloaded from our website via the following links:
www.wiking.com/dop/miro
www.wiking.com/dop/miro_b

Product information on solid fuel local space heaters according to Commission Regulation (EU) 2015/1185

Model| WIKING Miro 1, WIKING Miro 2, WIKING Miro 3, WIKING Miro 4, WIKING Miro 5, WIKING Miro 6
---|---
Direct heat output [kW]| 4,9
Indirect heating functionality| No
Indirect heat output [kW]|
Type of heat output/room temperature control| Two or more manual stages, no temperature control
Space heating performance at the nominal heat output

Fuel| Preferred fuel| Seasonal space heating energy efficiency
[%]
Wood logs with moisture content 12-18 %| Yes| 68
Emissions| mg/m3 (13% 02)
Particulate matter (PM)| 18,2
Organic gaseous compounds (OGC)| 66
Carbon monoxide (CO)| 1125
Nitrogen oxides (NO×)| 114
Characteristics when operating with the preferred fuel only

Nominal heat output [kW]| 4,9
Electric power consumption nominal heat output [kW]| –
Electric power consumption minimum heat output [kW]| –
Electric power consumption standby mode [kW]| –
Useful efficiency at nominal heat output [%]| 78
Energy efficiency index| 103
Energy efficiency class| A

Specific Precautions during Assembling, Installing & Maintenance:
See installation instructions for more information

Product End-of-Life/Recycling:
To dispose of the stove after the product life has expired, please observe the following information

• Dispose of the items correctly i.e. separate the parts to be disposed of in material groups
• Always dispose of items in a way that is as sustainable as possible and that is in line with the current environmental protection, reprocessing/recycling, and disposal technology

Trouble Shooting

If you experience that your wood-burning stove is not functioning optimally, consult this table to find some usual problems that may arise and how to solve them. If you cannot solve them and/ or other problems occur, please contact your maintenance man or wood-burning stove dealer.

Problem| Possible Cause|

Try the Following

---|---|---
I cannot make a sufficient fire on the stove.| Incorrect lighting.| Further information: See the section on lighting and firing the stove.
Poor chimney draft.| Ensure that the smoke pipe or chimney is not blocked. Ensure that the chimney height is correct in relation to its surroundings.
The glass pane is covered in soot.| The wood is too moist.| Only fire with firewood that has dried for at least 12 months beneath a covered shed and with a water content of 12-18%.
A seal in the door is loose.| The seals should be soft and flexible. If they are not, replace them. New seals can be purchased from your local wood-burning stove dealer.
Insufficient supply of secondary air to the pane-flushing system.| Move the air control lever further to the left.
The temperature inside the stove is too low.| Put more wood in the stove and move the regulating lever further to the left.
Smoke enters the room when I open the door.| The damper in the chimney is closed.| Open the damper.
Poor chimney draft.| Ensure that the smoke pipe or chimney is not blocked. Ensure that the chimney height is correct in relation to its surroundings.
The firewood is in flames.| Never open the door if the firewood is in flames.
The fire-proof materials in the combustion chamber are blackened after firing.| You have not fired enough, i.e., there is not enough air or firewood.| Move the air control lever further to the left. Moreover, igniting a larger quantity of wood might be needed.
Combustion is uncontrollable.| A seal in the door or ash drawer is loose.| The seals should be soft and flexible. If they are not, replace them. New seals can be purchased from your local wood-burning stove dealer.
Excess chimney draft.| Close the damper in the chimney a bit at a time until the problem is solved. At the same time, move the air control lever further to the right.
The door is not completely sealed.|

Close the door completely. If it cannot close completely, it must be replaced with an original spare part.

Serial nr.

Warranty service

It is important that you record your retailer’s name, address, and telephone number on
this section, as he is responsible for any adjustment which may be required during the
warranty period.

Model type————————————–
Date of purchase——————————
Retailer—————————————–
Address—————————————-
Tel.———————————————

HWAM A/S
DK-8362 HØRNING
www.wiking.com

References

• HWAM Homepage - Hwam
• Search results for: 'dop miro'
• Search results for: 'dop miro_b'

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