Tiles DT2HMAK Glass Tile Instruction Manual
- June 5, 2024
- Tiles
Table of Contents
GLASS TILE
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
DT2HMAK Glass Tile
Installation of paper-faced glass mosaic tiles takes a bit of patience and
requires attention to detail. Paper facing is typically used for glass tiles
that have some level of translucency to them; whereas, if a mesh backing was
used it may show through the finished tile. The paper face allows you to
install the tiles with no backing, so if you do see through the tile you won’t
see an underlying mesh backing. Paper face tiles are also popular because it
costs less to manufacture than fiberglass mesh-backed tiles, thus they can be
purchased at a lower price. If you are good at paying attention to detail and
not rushing through your project, you’ll find that installing paper-faced
tiles can be quite rewarding.
The tools needed for installing paper-faced tiles are the same as you would
use for installing any other tiles. You may need to use a saw if you have
curves that will need to be cut. For this, a stained glass cutter is very
popular.
The requirements for the backing (wall behind the tiles) are the same as it is
for ceramic tiles. Be sure to choose the appropriate backing according to the
environment in which you’re installing the tiles. Use cement board for showers
and high moisture areas, green board for areas with occasional moisture, and
drywall for areas where you’re sure it won’t receive any moisture. If you use
the wrong backing there is a danger of the tiles coming loose years down the
road.
Because glass tiles have a bit of translucency to them, you’ll need to use a
latex-modified white thin-set for adhering the tiles. You can easily find
latex-modified white thin-set at your local building supply store. Let them
know that you’ll be installing glass tiles and they’ll give you the
appropriate thin-set (just verify for yourself that it is white). When you mix
the thin-set, it won’t be a perfect white color. The thin-set will look more
gray than white, if the label says white then you do have the correct thin-
set. It’ll lighten up and be much closer to white once it dries.
Okay, once you have collected your tools, prepared your surface, marked a few
reference lines, and mixed your thin-set; you’re ready to start installing the
tiles. Follow these steps for setting the tiles.
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Apply thin-set using the notched end of your trowel, holding the trowel at about 45 degrees to the surface. The notches will measure just the right amount of thin-set to leave on the surface.
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Using the flat side of your trowel lightly flatten the peaks and remove the valleys of the thin-set. This is so that there won’t be any empty spaces behind the tiles, as this will show through on the clear and semiclear tiles. Be sure not to remove any of the thin-set or move it, as you have measured just the right amount in the previous step.
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Set your first sheet of tiles onto the thin-set, making sure you line it with the reference lines you created during preparation. Press the tiles with firm pressure but even pressure. Apply adjacent sheets of tiles aligning the tiles with the first sheet. Be sure to set the spacing between sheets to match the spacing between the tiles. Getting the sheets lined up and the spacing correct is critical to the success of the project, so take your time at this point and make it look good.
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Using a wooden beating block (a short piece of 2×4 or other wood), even out the surface of the tiles with light tapping using a hammer on the beating block. This makes sure that there are no raised tiles and that the finished surface is flat and smooth.
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Apply the remaining sheets using this same process.
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After about 20 minutes you’ll need to remove the paper. Using a wet sponge, dampen the paper on the tiles. Keeping the paper wet for about
10 minutes will dissolve the glue holding the paper to the tile. -
Gently remove the paper from the tiles. The paper should be easy to remove if the glue has dissolved completely. When removing the paper, pull it back on itself to ensure that you don’t lift any tiles.
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Replace any tiles which are chipped or cracked. Typically you’ll find a couple of tiles that need replacement. Lift the chipped tile using a screwdriver, apply a small amount of thin-set to the back of the replacement tile (butter backing), and firmly press it into place. Make sure that the surface of the replacement tile is even with the tiles around it.
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Allow the tile to cure for a minimum of 24 hours.
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Clean any remaining glue from the tiles using a sponge, warm water, and a nylon scrub brush. Let the tile dry before going to the next step.
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Now you’re ready to apply the grout. You’ll want to use a non-sanded grout in a color that compliments the color of your tiles. I recommend using a similar color but in a lighter shade (if you’re unsure about the shade, it is better to err to the lighter side). Using a rubber grout float, work the grout into the spaces between the tiles. Hold the float at about 45 degrees to the surface and work the grout into the spaces in between the tiles. For the final pass, use a diagonal sweep – this ensures that the spaces have grout up to the surface of the tiles.
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Remove the extra grout from the surface of the glass tiles using your rubber float; holding it nearly 90 degrees to the surface and scraping in a diagonal path. Be sure not to remove any of the grout from in between the tiles.
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Let the grout sit for about 20 minutes. You want the grout to harden but not cure. At this point, you want to gently clean the surface of the glass tiles using a damp sponge. Again, be sure not to remove any of the grout from between the tiles. Cleaning the surface is much easier when the grout hasn’t cured, if you wait 24 hours it will be very difficult to clean. I emphasize that you need to be very gentle when cleaning the surface, use very light pressure and rinse the sponge often.
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Allow the grout to set for 24 hours. Then clean the remaining haze by polishing the tiles with a dry cloth. Once you have finished with the final cleaning, apply grout sealer according to the manufacturers’ instructions. The sealer will help to protect the grout and extend the life of the project.