RIGGED World Traveller Travel Fishing Rod Reel Case Set Instruction Manual

RIGGED World Traveller Travel Fishing Rod Reel Case Set

START FISHING GUIDE

We have provided this to get people started, giving the basics to start and enjoy fishing. Once hooked, there are endless books, online sites and stores that will help you improve your skills and knowledge.

WHAT FISHING LICENSE DO YOU NEED?

In most countries you are going to need a fishing licence, which is most cases you will find in the countries post office. In all countries, the regulations vary. Generally, where it is tidal or in the sea, there is no need to have a license. (One unofficial rule that works … Look for Don’t Fish signs. If you don’t see them, then fish. If you get stopped, then say sorry and 99.9% you will be ok). Check online if there is a “Closed season” for fishing. This means, you are not allowed to fish in certain areas in during a specified period. You will find this online.

PLACES TO FISH

Firstly, don’t spend more on additional fishing licenses until you master fishing. There are so many places to fish, many of which are free, to get you going. Rivers and streams, canals, lakes, ponds, harbours and in the sea from the shore, harbour or boats offer endless opportunities. If you are not sure where to go, look online. In the UK the small ponds, lakes and the canal systems offer great fishing. If travelling abroad, then look to harbours or from your holiday beach to provide some instant fun.

SET UP YOUR ROD

Assembling any rod properly and carefully, extends its life.

1. Put the rod sections in size order from handle to tip.
2. Bring the size matching male and female ferrules together carefully.
3. Firmly push the ferrules together, twisting the rod sections clockwise and anti-clockwise to lock them together.
4. Do this, using gentle pressure, until the female section will not go further.
5. Line up the guides on the rod, twisting the rod sections clockwise and anti-clockwise gently, so the line can now travel smoothly along the guides.
6. To take apart, reverse the process.
   

KNOW THE REEL

The reel allows you to cast out your line and retrieve it.

• REEL FOOT. Fixes to the rod handle, using a screw thread on the handle.
• REEL HANDLE. Can be left or right handed. When turning forwards the line winds in. It can be totally unscrewed and reversed to suit left or right handed people.
• LINE SPOOL. This holds the fishing line. The line must be tied to the line spool.
• LINE ROLLER. Line runs from the spool under the roller, then down the rod guides.
• BAIL ARM. Locked open in casting, then automatically returns to wind in the line.
• ANTI-REWIND. When locked on it prevents the reel winding backwards.
• DRAG ADJUSTMENT. Ensures the line from the reel will pull out before breaking.
• sEA FISHING Clean the reel in fresh water after fishing in the sea to stop salt corrosion. Ideally re-oil the reel with a lubricant like WD 40.

ATTACHING LINE

• Open the bail arm.
• Place the line around the reel spool.
• Tie a suitable tight knot of your choice with the line t ightly round the spool.
• Cut the loose piece of line so the knot is secure.
• Close the bail arm.
• Tightly hold the line 50 cm (1 foot) away from the reel.
• Keep the line t ight, turning the reel handle until the line is on the reel
• Ensuring the line comes just under the edge of the line spool to make casting easier.
• Now open the bail arm and thread the line through the fishing guides.
  The line strength and diameter are indicated on the reel spool. ‘*

LEFT OR RIGHT WIND

All spinning reels can easily change from left to right wind. Either the handle unscrews, or the nut opposite the handle unscrews, allowing the handle to be inserted on the other side of the reel.

KNOTS AND LINE SETTING

• Now tie on your hook, lure, or terminal tackle (hook and weight/sinker)
• There are 1 OOs of knots for tackle. Here are 2 that cover most nylon line needs.

Now you have tied on your tackle you need to set the line drag properly so the line does not break. You can adjust this, so the line goes out freely when pulled, even with the handle standing still. This stops the line breaking if you get a big fish.

PRACTICE THE CAST

• Hold the reel with your dominant hand at the reel foot, where it joins the rod.
• Ensure your index finger can reach just above the bail arm. (Picture 1)
• Move the bail arm so the line roller and line are close to your index finger.
• Using your index finger, wrap it around the line with the bail arm still closed.

• Check the tackle at the end of the line is not touching the rod tip or there isn’t too much line away from the tip (50 cm is ideal between the tackle and the rod tip).
• With your index finger still holding the line, flip open the bail arm (Letting go of the line is going to let it leave the spool).
• Facing forwards, draw the rod slowly back behind you.
• Swing the rod forward faster, releasing the line from your index finger, when the rod is almost in front of you.
• Now the tackle will fly, taking line off the spool until it hits the water (you will need to practice this to get the timing*).
  You can learn the overhand cast, sidearm, underarm, flipping and skip cast. (You will learn with practice.) If you need any more advice check out YouTube.

BASIC TACKLE YOU NEED

These are mainly in the combination tackle pack you have (except the scissors, bait-box and landing net)

Hooks+line A packet of barbless, size 14, or 16 hooks to mono filament
Floats Basic floats will work. Buy floats already attached to line with weights and a hook.
Disgorger This will be used when you catch your fish to remove the hook from the mouth.
Split shot They squeeze onto the line using pliers, forceps or in our case, teeth.
Weights You will want to bait fish on the bottom. 1/4 ounce bombs sinkers will do.
Scissors For cutting the fishing line when you have tied your hook length to the main line.
Bait box A takeaway tub will do. Make sure it has p lenty of ‘small’ holes in the top.
Landing net Perhaps the most important part of fishing is to bring in your fish. If your fish are small you can just lift them from the water. If they are bigger you can try to hold them in your hand, however the easiest way to do this is by using a net. These don’t have to be expensive (look online)

BEST WAYS TO START FISHING

Remember you don’t have to cast miles to catch fish. They are as likely to be under your rod tip and in the middle of the water.
FLOAT FISHING
The best way to start with kids and beginners. This way, you get to look at something that shows the bite. It is easy to do, not complicated, bait is easy to get and most importantly you should catch fish. They may not be big, however you on your own or with your family will have fun. The bait should be on or very near the bottom of the water. You need to secure the float with small weights then decide how you want to apply weights to sink your bait. The float should be weighted so the top of the float is just above the water surface. A bite is indicated when the float goes down or up.

There are 1,000’s of ways to float fish and 1,000’s of floats. Get going, then decide your favourite. Ours is surface fishing with a bubble float.

LEDGERING

This basically means fishing on the bottom of the water, (on the river, lake or seabed}, sinking your bait and waiting for the tip of your rod to move or line to reel out to indicate a bite.
There are numerous ways to do this, for each fishing water. Regardless the principal is the same, to get your bait to the bottom and weight the tackle so you can see a fish bite. Dependent on the size of fish, hooks from size 16 to 6 work well for this.

The illustrations indicate some methods you can use depending on the water, speed, depth and size of fish you are targeting. Remember the lighter the weight, the less the fish will sense the tackle and the more fish you will catch. You can also fish without weights and just use the bait as the weight.

LURE FISHING (SPINNING)

METAL & HARD PLASTIC LURES
These are in your tackle box. This technique is for predatory fish (fish that eat other fish). These mainly include trout, salmon, pike, perch, chub and sea fish. It uses a lure which is pulled through the water to imitate a small fish.
You don’t need much time or tackle to go lure fishing. The most effective lure to start with will be the Mepps style spinner, size 1, 2 or 3 (we prefer size O for small fish). You can also use other metal lures or plastic baits to imitate fish.
There are 1,000’s of lures to choose from. One consideration is the care of the fish, so we recommend using lures with single, barbless hooks. These are better for the care of the fish and importantly for the angler. Having a barbed hook removed in not a nice process from a fish or yourself!

• Lures can be tied directly to the fishing line.
• If you are fishing for Pike, you will need a Pike Trace (look it up online).
• Cast it out then retrieve it at various speeds and depths to find the fish.
• Don’t spend too long in one place. Keep moving.
• Remember to flatten the barb on the hook to make it easy to remove from the fish.
• You should have fishing forceps (look them up) at hand if you deep hook a fish
  

SOFT LURES
Generally much cheaper than spinners, however no less effective. These are soft baits normally fished using a larger single hook, which may or may not have a weight attached (with weight it is referred to as a jig head). Again, there are 1,000’s to choose from, replicating fish, worms, larvae and crustaceans. These can be retrieved like a spinner, bounced along the bottom or bounced up and down Gigging) to promote a bite from the fish. Again, please consider single barbless hooks
.

BAITS
The fish only ever see your bait, so make sure your bait is as appealing as possible. If a fish sees the line or the hook, then you have less chance of catching. All the baits here can be fished on floats or the bottom of the water.
White Bread
Costs nearly nothing. Nearly every fish eats white bread. Start with small hooks, size 16 or 18 on a float, with a small amount covering the hook. White bread floated on the surface is a deadly bait to catch chub and carp, and a great way to catch mullet in the sea on holiday.
Worms
Garden worms of any size can be used, even a small bit of the worm. Try to hide the hook as much as possible within the worm. Even minnows will love a chopped worm. For most cases, worms work on hooks from size 16 to size 6.
Maggots
Maggots are available from most fishing supplies shops. At f irst go for a half pint of mixed maggots. Pinch the hook through its bottom (the fat bit). You can also throw in a few (6 maggots) every 3 casts to keep the fish active.
Sweetcorn
This is cheap, and one of the best fishing baits used today. The sweet taste of the sweetcorn helps catch a variety of different fish.
Other Baits
Anything is worth a try depending on what you are trying to catch. Slugs, insects, smaller fish, shellfish, prawns, nuts, dog biscuits, potatoes. As well as this there are loads of manufactured baits. Yes, it’s time to go and look online to expand your knowledge.

BITE INDICATION

So how do you know you have a bite? Floats can go up, down or lie sideways indicating a bite. If you are bait fishing there will be an irregular knocking of the rod tip. These can be tiny or they may pull the rod round. They can also be easily confused with your bait bouncing on the bottom. If you are lure fishing you feel a pull on the line or a savage bang on your lure. When these happen you need to strike the rod. Only practice will pay off refining your knowledge .

STRIKING & PLAYING THE FISH

Striking is the act of actually setting the hook into the fish. It is done by a quick short movement of the rod tip. Once the fish is hooked you must apply constant pressure on the fish to make sure it doesn’t come off. This is best done ra ising the rod tip. The only way to learn will be to get practice. You are fishing with barbless hooks. You will lose some fish until you learn the correct pressure to use

Remember don’t be brutal to the fish. Don’t lift heavy fish directly out of the water. Treat them kindly and make sure they return in good condition

UNHOOKING A FISH

Unless you are fishing for trout or salmon, which is unlikely if you need this guide, all your fish need to stay in good condition to be returned to the water.

Which end of the disgorger you use depends on the size of the fish? Remember to always keep the line tight out of the mouth.

DISGORGER

If you are not sure how to do this, check a video on line first. Hold the line tight and put the slot of the disgorger over the line and slide it along the line until you reach the hook. Push the hook in the opposite direction to the way it went in until it is free and then carefully remove it.

LOOK AFTER YOUR FISH

To fish responsibly you should have a hook disgorger, scissors, forceps a landing net and wet hand towel or unhooking mat to place big fish on. (look those up too).
Remember all hooks should be barbless to ensure fish can be returned safely.

HOW TO AVOID ROD DAMAGE

Fishing rods break. It’s a fact. Some breaks are due to manufacturing faults in the fishing rod, however the majority can easily be avoided.
Your rod may have a guarantee, however it is much better to know how to avoid the damage. This saves the hassle of a wasted fishing trip or having to wait for a replacement part.

MANUFACTURING FAULTS

Manufacturing faults are rare, but if there is a fault that affects the strength of the rod blank, it will normally reveal itself the first or second time the rod is used.

ROD BREAKS

Rod breaks after that are normally 99% down to angler error in some way, or accidents.

IMPACT DAMAGE

Impact damage is the cause of many seemingly unexplainable breakages. An invisible fracture can occur if a rod receives a short sharp impact during use, storage or transportation. The impact point may then cause a breakage the next time the rod is used. Care should always be taken to make sure rods are handled, transported and stored to prevent these problems.

EXCESSIVE ROD PRESSURE

Excessive rod pressure is the cause of most breakages, which comes down to accidents, angler error or what we call Rod Abuse (see below)

1. DEAD LIFT. Rods are not designed to dead lift big fish (or traffic cones). You should always have a net or handle the fish from the water.
2. HEAVY SNAGS. Rods are not designed to pull out of a heavy snag. Point the rod directly at the snag, put the pressure on the reel and walk backwards, looking away from the snag (to avoid, flying tackle).
3. REEL DRAG. Should always be set to give out line, before the line or the rod breaks. When using a super light rod, this needs to be incredibly light!
4. CORRECT CAST WEIGHTS. Going above the designed cast weight puts additional pressure on the rod blank it was not designed to handle.

UNNATURAL BEND

The rod is designed to bend with a natural curve, from the handle to tip, towards a fish or your terminal tackle. Changing the natural bend of the rod can cause breakages, mainly to the tip.

1. Holding the rod up the shaft of the blank playing a fish or getting out of a snag.
2. Pulling a lure or hook towards the handle putting the tip under pressure
3. Holding a rod by the tip section
4. Reeling in too far, or too fast, with braided line, with lures, or tackle hitting the end eye.
5. Testing the rod bend by holding both sides of the blank.

KENDAL, THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, GREAT BRITAIN, LA97 AN
Email riggy@riggedandready.net +44 7824334033

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