AEROSPACE AC-245P 4 Piston Pro Lite Front Drag Race Brake Kit Instruction Manual

AEROSPACE AC-245P 4 Piston Pro Lite Front Drag Race Brake Kit

RACE, STREET, 2 PISTON AND 4 PISTON FRONT KITS ARE ALL COVERED IN THESE INSTRUCTIONAL SHEETS.

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TECHNICAL INSTRUCTIONS

Preparing the spindle:
You will need to remove all factory braking components from your spindle and clean all mounting surfaces. Remove any old grease from spindle snout. A bare clean spindle is required before new installation can begin.

1. Using the new caliper mounting bracket as a guide determine which dust shield holes line up and will be used to attach the bracket.
2. Drill the mounting holes with a 5/16 drill bit then tap with a 3/8-16 tap.(make sure you keep the drill and tap parallel to the spindle snout and square to the spindle bosses)
3. Mark and cut off the factory caliper mounting ears making room for the new caliper.(Remove as little as possible, just make enough room for the new caliper)

Attaching rotor to hub

Drag race kit
Using the hub and wheel that will be used on the vehicle, determine which bolt pattern in the hub will be used. Screw in each ½-20 x 3.0 long stud from the back side of the flange using red loctite and torque to 40 ft. lbs. Make sure you used the correct bolt pattern by double-checking the hub fitment into the wheel at this time. Locate the hardware bag containing QTY (10) of a 3/8-24 x ¾ long hex head bolt and QTY (10) 3/8 internal ring lock washer. Clean the hex head bolts with acetone or brake cleaner. Make sure the surface of the hub and rotor are free from burrs or debris on the mounting surfaces. Place 1 lock washer on each of the 10 bolts. Put a few drops of red high temp loctite on each bolt. Slide bolt between the wheel flange and rotor mounting flange and drop through one of the rotor mounting bolt holes then start threading into the rotor. After all bolts have been started into the rotor clamp the rotor into a vise (take care not to harm the rotor surface in vise jaws). Then using an open-end 9/16 wrench tighten each bolt and then torque with a “crows foot” socket to 35 ft-lbs. (see diagram)

Street kits
Using the hub and wheel that will be used on the vehicle determine which bolt pattern in the hub will be used. Screw in each ½-20 x 3.0 long stud from the back side of the flange using red loctite and torque to 40 ft. lbs. Make sure you used the correct bolt pattern by double-checking the hub fitment into the wheel at this time. Locate the hardware bag containing QTY (17) of a 5/16-18 x ¾ long low head bolt and QTY (1) 5/32 hex key. Clean the low-head bolts with acetone or brake cleaner. Make sure the surface of the rotor adapter and rotor are free from burrs or debris on the mounting surfaces. Place rotor adapter cupped side facing up on a table (flat portion with 5 holes touching the table). Place the rotor over the top of the adapter with the side with tabs facing up. Put a few drops of red high temp loctite on each low head screw. Install each low head screw finger tight first then tighten all screws to 20 ft lbs or as tight as possible. Place the hub nose cap side down onto the table then place the rotor/adapter assembly on top of hub with the heads of the rotor screws pointing up. Locate the hardware bag that contains QTY (10) 3/8-16x 1 ¼ long hex head screws and QTY (10) 3/8-16 Ny-lock nuts. Place hex head screws through the rotor adapter and hub and thread into 3/8-16 Ny-lock nuts and torque to 30 ft lbs. (see diagram)

FOR PRO STREET KITS GO TO PAGE 4 AT THIS TIME

Drag race bracket/caliper assembly:

1. Bolt the caliper to the mounting bracket with the caliper bleeder screw pointing straight up and the head of the stainless insert in the bracket facing upward. The bolts used are 3/8-24x 1 ¼ hex head grade 8 with 1 lock washer and 1 flat washer on them. The bolts should install from the inside of the caliper through the caliper mounting ear and into the inserts on the bracket. This completes the caliper assembly.

Final assembly of parts

1. Pack grease into the inner and outer wheel bearings and put a very light amount on the grease seal lip. Place the inner bearing into the hub and then install the grease seal into the hub.
2. Slide hub/rotor assembly over the spindle shaft and install the outer bearing then the tanged washer then nut lightly snug the nut.
3. Adjust the bearings by spinning the hub assembly while tightening the nut, ideal is to have zero lash and slight drag felt when rotating the hub assembly.
4. Place the spindle nut locking ring over the spindle nut lining up notches in the ring with the cotter pin hole in the spindle shaft if the hole does not line up just spin the lock ring only until you can achieve alignment then place cotter pin through hole and bend the legs to prevent the spindle nut from loosening.
5. Install brake caliper assembly to the spindles with the bleeder screw above the brake line port so the bleed screw is to the highest point. You will need to use the 3/8-16 x 1 1/4 hex head bolts. Be sure caliper is centered on rotor within .050 of an inch by using the supplied shims. Torque to 35 ft-lbs.
6. The inlet port of the brake caliper is 1/8-27 pipe thread. The stock hoses will not work. Aerospace Components sells line kits to fit most applications.
7. Drop the brake pads into the calipers and secure them with the pad retaining bolt and lock nut. Be sure the bolt extends through the locking feature of the nut. This nut should be replaced every time you replace your brake pads.
8. Make sure the brake pads are the only thing touching the rotor and that the rotor spins freely. This is a fixed caliper system and the bracket and rotor will have minimal clearance, but should not touch.

The caliper must be parallel to the rotor. A different number of shims may be required to achieve this for one caliper.

Final Check

1. Make sure all fasteners are tightly locked in place.
2. Make sure all fittings are tight
3. Check for wheel clearance between brakes and wheels as well as brake lines and wheels/tires.

Pro Street bracket/spindle assembly

1. Bolt the caliper mounting bracket to the spindle with the head of the stainless insert in the bracket facing toward the outside of the car. The bolts used are 3/8-16x 1 ½ hex head grade 8 with 1 lock washer and 1 flat washer on them. The bolts should install from the outside of the bracket through the .300 thick spacers and into the spindle. This completes the bracket assembly.
   Final assembly of parts

2. Pack grease into the inner and outer wheel bearings and put a very light amount on the grease seal lip. Place the inner bearing into the hub and then install the grease seal into the hub.

3. Slide hub/rotor assembly over the spindle shaft and install the outer bearing then the tanged washer then nut lightly snug the nut.

4. Adjust the bearings by spinning the hub assembly while tightening the nut, the ideal is to have zero lash and slight drag felt when rotating the hub assembly.

5. Place the spindle nut locking ring over the spindle nut lining up notches in the ring with a cotter pin hole in the spindle shaft if the hole does not line up just spin the lock ring only until you can achieve alignment then place cotter pin through hole and bend the legs to prevent the spindle nut from loosening.

6. Install the brake caliper to the bracket with the bleeder screw above the brake line port so the bleed screw is to the highest point. You will need to use the 3/8-24 x 1 1/4 hex head bolts with lock washer and flat washer. Be sure caliper is centered on rotor within .050 of an inch by using the supplied shims. Torque to 35 ft-lbs.

7. The inlet port of the brake caliper is 1/8-27 pipe thread. The stock hoses will not work. Aerospace Components sells line kits to fit most applications.

8. Drop the brake pads into the calipers and secure them with the pad retaining bolt and lock nut. Be sure the bolt extends through the locking feature of the nut. This nut should be replaced every time you replace your brake pads.

9. Make sure the brake pads are the only thing touching the rotor and that the rotor spins freely. This is a fixed caliper system and the bracket and rotor will have minimal clearance, but should not touch.

The caliper must be parallel to the rotor. A different number of shims may be required to achieve this for one caliper.

Final Check

1. Make sure all fasteners are tightly locked in place.
2. Make sure all fittings are tight
3. Check for wheel clearance between brakes and wheels as well as brake lines and wheels/tires.

FOR ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE CALL US @ 727.347.9915 M-F 8:00a.m.-8:00p.m. EST.

Brake Lines
The intake port on the brake caliper is 1/8-27 pipe thread (1/8 npt). Banjo style bolts and fittings will not work with this kit. Wrap the pipe fitting with a couple of turns of Teflon tape before installing in the caliper. The fitting should screw in about 2 turns by hand then use a wrench to finish tightening it up. When installing the brake lines make sure they are positioned where they will not contact any moving parts. Check that the brake lines are long enough by jacking the front end of the car up and turning the steering from wheel lock to wheel lock making sure that the lines are not being pulled on at any time. If there is tension on the brake line at any time a longer line will be required.

Brake Fluid
Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluids are recommended for best results, DO NOT use DOT 5 or any fluid that contains silicone. Many Dot 5 fluids contain silicone which will cause damage to the piston O-rings and will also damage most master cylinders. Chose a good brand fluid, we have always had good luck with Valvoline and Castrol brands.

Master Cylinder
The master cylinder requirements vary depending on front/rear brake combination. If you are using 4 piston calipers on the front and rear it will require a master cylinder with a minimum bore size of 1 1/32. Call 727-347-9915 if you have any questions about your current setup.

Bleeding the System
An initial gravity bleeding is recommended to remove most of the air in the system. This is accomplished by filling the master cylinder with fresh fluid and opening the bleed ports. Leave the top off the master cylinder. Fluid will flow into and fill the calipers. Be sure to keep fluid in the reservoir to keep air out of the system. This process will take some time. A final bleeding is accomplished by firmly pressing the brake pedal and having someone open the bleed port until the pedal goes to the floor, closing the bleed port before the pedal is lifted. Do not pump the pedal while bleeding. This only foams the fluid and prevents proper bleeding. Repeat this process for all brakes until pedal is high and firm. Be sure no air bubbles come from the calipers.

Brake pad bedding
New brake pads require a bedding process. This bedding procedure starts by pumping your brakes at a very low speed to ensure proper brake operation. Make a series of hard stops at progressively higher speeds. Continue this process until brake fade is felt. Park the car and give the pads a chance to cool completely. Improper pad bedding results in glazed pads diminishing stopping ability. Brake pads should be checked regularly. If pads are wearing evenly, they can be used almost down to the packing plate.

Getting the correct pedal ratio:
In order to get the correct ratio for your Aerospace Components braking system, a few measurements must be taken. First, remove the old master cylinder. Measure from the center line of the pivot point “P” of the brake arm to the pivot point of the master cylinder rod to get length “B”. Next, measure from the pivot point of the master cylinder rod to the center of the footpad to get length “A”. Finally, divide length “A” by length “B”. This will give you your pedal ratio. The recommended ratio should be 7:1. For example, if length “A” was 14 “ and length “B” was 2”, then 14/2=7.

WARNING:
ALL AEROSPACE PRODUCTS ARE FOR OFFROAD USE ONLY AND ARE NOT INTENDED FOR STREET USE! SAFETY IS A REQUIREMENT!! TO ENSURE SAFETY A PARACHUTE, ROLLCAGE, 5 POINT HARNESS, D.O.T. OR SNELL APPROVED HELMET, FIRESUIT AND ALL OTHER NHRA OR IHRA REQUIRED SAFETY DEVICES SHOULD BE UTILIZED AND KEPT UP TO DATE. ALL RACERS SHOULD HOLD A VALID LICENSE FOR THE CLASS IN WHICH THE VEHICLE IS DESIGNED TO RUN. PROPER INSTALLATION OF COMPONENTS IS OF THE UPMOST IMPORTANCE. MAKE SURE THE PERSON INSTALLING ANY COMPONENT ON YOUR RACE CAR IS FAMILIAR WITH THE PROPER INSTALLATION OF THAT COMPONENT. Aerospace Components is not liable for any damages or injuries that may occur due to incorrect installation of parts or components!

Please remember, racing pushes all components that make up a vehicle to their max stress levels. When any part or component is pushed to the max its chances of failure rise dramatically. This is why race parts and components carry no warranty. This is also the same reason why safety gear should be used at all times and why fastener and part inspections should be performed regularly. By installing any Aerospace Components parts you agree that Aerospace components can not be held liable for any damages or injuries resulting from part or component failure. Remember this is racing…. parts break, systems may fail so be prepared mentally before a race. Know where the chute handle is, know where the kill switch is, make sure your safety restraints are tight and have a plan in mind for when things go wrong. Never place the transmission into park, reverse or use the transmission brake to stop a moving race car; if you try YOU WILL CRASH! The best way to stop a runaway race car is to release the parachute and kill the ignition. Please be safe at all times and hope for the best but plan for the worst.

MOTORSPORTS ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND MAY RESULT IN SEVERE INJURY OR EVEN DEATH. RACE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

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