TapeBuddy Drywall Tape Dispenser Instruction Manual

From Simple Set Up to Easy
Use with TapeBuddy 

STEP 1: PULLING COATED TAPE

• With one hand on the tool, pull the tape straight out with the other hand to the desired length needed and hold upwards.
• Cut the mudded tape by inserting the drywall joint knife corner into the center of the tape about one inch from the end of the out-feed table.
• This leaves enough tape for pulling the next piece.

STEP 2: APPLYING THE TAPE

• Apply tape to the joint with the mudded side towards the drywall.
• Use a 5 to 6-inch joint knife to firmly embed the tape into the seam preferably starting at the middle and smoothing the tape out to both sides.
• Be careful to not squeeze out too much mud.
• Smooth the tape area and let it dry.
• Continue with topcoats until finished.
• Clean up tools with a brush and water then wipe dry.

“There are no secrets to success. It is the result of preparation, hard work and learning from failure.” Colin Powell

FUN FACT:

How much tape should I pull out at a time?

• Estimate the length of tape needed then pull out that approximate length. Around five feet or your arms span is the easiest to work with.
• Cut the coated tape, place the mudded side on the seam and embed.
• Position one end of the tape and embed it with your joint knife continuing to the end. Position your joint knife where you want the tape to stop and tear off the excess tape. The next piece can be butted end to end or overlapped.

“The LORD by wisdom founded the earth; By understanding He established the heavens.” Proverbs 3:19

How to Avoid Tape Blisters with TapeBuddy
Why do blisters appear under the tape?

• Blisters or bubbles are caused when tape is embedded onto seams that don’t have enough compound or has compound with low moisture.
• Applying dry tape over compound without the correct moisture creates long term problems. The tape will blister or not adhere correctly and long term may begin to curl up on the edges. This could take a few years to show.
• Why does this happen? When applying compound first to the seam the drywall pulls the moisture from the compound and the air dries the surface.
  When the tape is finally embedded, the compound is  too dry to adhere to the tape.

DOES WETTING THE PAPER FIRST HELP?

• No. This actually causes the paper to not adhere properly. Why? The water on the tape isolates the paper from the “glue” in the compound.

WHAT IS THE KEY TO HAVING PAPER STICK?

• The compound must have the correct amount of moisture for the paper to adhere properly.

SOLUTION FOR A “NO BLISTER SEAM”
Applying the prepared compound directly to the tape and the tape to the seam is the key! You can see the tape is coated correctly without dry spots. The tape will have the moisture it needs to stick forever without blisters.

Taping Ceilings & Wall Seams

• Drywall is beveled on the edge making this seam the easiest seam to tape.

• Work with the longest length you can handle easily which is usually about 5 feet. Remember: Safety First!

• Use a flexible joint knife to embed the tape tight into the beveled surface.

• If you prefer you can pull enough coated tape for the entire seam by booking the coated tape as you pull it out. Apply the tape on the whole length. Embed the tape starting at the middle and working in both directions.

• Drywall tape stretches when it is moist.
  Starting in the middle will allow the tape to move toward each end without any problem. You may need to trim the extra tape at the end.

• Long ceiling joints are easiest taped with 5’ to 6’ pieces. When working off of a bench or ladder, you can only embed what you can reach so there is no need to pull out more coated tape than you can embed from this position.

TapeBuddy makes it easy to tape ceiling joints! Position your bench under the seam you are working on, pull out the coated tape (about 4 to 6 feet) and step onto your bench. Press one end of the tape over the seam and align the other end. Because the mud is on the tape, it will stick instantly. Embed, smooth and you’re ready for the next piece. There’s no mess or excess compound!

TAPEBUDDY GIVES YOU A SMOOTH, EVEN TAPE APPLICATION FOR A PERFECT SEAM!

Vertical Inside Corners

• Pull about a 5 foot length of tape, cut, place and embed starting at the top corner. There is no need to pre- crease the tape as moist tape folds easily when tucked into position.
• Estimate the length of tape to finish the bottom part of the seam, cut and place starting at the floor. Embed the tape one side at a time, trim to length and you are done.
• The tape shouldn’t touch the floor. There is no excess compound behind the tape to ooze out so the corner embeds correctly and stays clean.
• Longer pieces of tape can be pulled from the tool by booking the tape as shown in the picture below.

PRO TIP:
Maximize the convenience of taping larger areas i.e. for a ceiling by pulling longer pieces known as booking the tape and place in an extra bucket. Keep that bucket close to where you are working and use as much as you need.

Horizontal Inside Corners

• Start at the corner with an arms length or longer (booking the tape) length of tape and tuck it into place.
  Embed one side at a time working in the direction you are most comfortable.
  The direction will depend on which hand you use for the joint knife.

• Continue to use with tape lengths you are most comfortable (or as much as you can handle easily) as you move across the seam to the end. These can be butted or overlapped in the corners. Smooth the tape and you are done.

Note: Tape splices do not weaken the strength of the taped seam but actually makes it stonger.

Taping Butt Joints

For bottom seams:
Lay the coated tape over the center of the seam starting at the floor and embed it up.
Embed from the bottom pulling your joint knife to the top. At the top place your joint knife 1 inch below the horizontal seam, hold the taping knife firm and tear off the extra tape then finish embedding the tape.

For top seams:
Lay the coated tape over the center of the seam starting at the top to the bottom. Embed from the top down. Firmly hold your taping knife 1 inch above the horizontal seam and tear the extra tape off. Finish embedding the tape.

For ceiling butt seams:
Butt joints require 46” of tape. (allowing 1inch in from both ends) You don’t need to measure the tape. Simply pull out a little over 48″ of coated tape and position it 1 inch in from the edge seam and lay the tape over the center of the seam. Embed starting from positioned end to the other. Hold your taping knife firmly 1 inch from the other edge seam, tear off the extra tape and finish embedding. You’re done!

Note: Do not overlap tape on surface seams!
This will increase your surface depth for finishing.

NO NEED TO PRE-COAT SEAMS USING TAPEBUDDY !

• TapeBuddy tools work great for taping around shower fixtures, windows, doors, or anywhere you need to straighten out a rough edge.
• If the mud compartment is full of mud and you notice that the tape roll is about to run out, you’ll need to empty the mud compartment to feed the new roll of tape or try this: Tape the new roll of tape to the end of the other roll and pull it through.
• The compound surface in a bucket will dry out overnight even when sealed. To help prevent this, clean the sides of the bucket well and pour a little water on the mud surface before sealing the lid.
• 500’ rolls of tape are heavier and harder to pull. Place a 6” piece of 2” PVC through the tape roll for a smoother ride as shown below.

NO HEAVY EQUIPMENT TO WORK WITH!

DRYWALL TAPING: HOW TO MAKE IT EASY WITH BUDDY TOOLS LLG

Documents / Resources

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