GRANDEUR Vinyl Composite Flooring Instructions

: June 13, 2024
: GRANDEUR

Table of Contents

Introduction
STORAGE & HANDLING
ACCLIMATION
SUBFLOOR
GENERAL INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
INSTALLATION
Customer Support
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GRANDEUR Vinyl Composite Flooring

GRANDEUR Vinyl Composite Flooring

Introduction

Please read all information on this page thoroughly for information regarding storage, preparation for and installation of your new vinyl floors.

STORAGE & HANDLING

Do not transport flooring products exposed — if under raining or damp conditions. Handle and unload flooring products with care, and store in a dry and well-ventilated place. Flooring shall not be delivered until the building has been enclosed with windows, doors are in place, and cement work, plastering, and all other wet work are completed and dry. HVAC systems must be in place and in operation at least 14 days prior to installation of the flooring and must remain operating during and after installation.

In addition, prior to installation of flooring, exterior grading must be completed with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3in over 10ft to direct the flow of water away from the building. All gutters and drainage spouts must be in place. The soil around the house must be treated or graded to provide sufficient drainage.
The following considerations are vital for ensuring the functionality and longevity of our products, failure to adhere to them will void your warranty.

ACCLIMATION

To achieve the best results, acclimation is recommended for vinyl flooring products. It is advised that vinyl products be allowed 2 days at room temperature (20 C) to acclimatize. Thereafter, maintaining room temperature and a humidity level of 35%-55% is important to ensure long lasting vinyl floors.

SUBFLOOR

Subfloor Conditions
Ensure that your subfloor is Structurally Sound. The subfloor should be adequately nailed, screwed, or glued down prior to the installation of your floor. All nail heads must be driven down below the surface. Securely nail all loose boards. Scrape, plane or fill uneven boards, holes or cracks using floor-leveling compound. Check that the subfloor is Level and Flat prior to installation. Subfloor unevenness cannot be greater than 3/16in over a 10ft span or 1/8in over a 6ft span. Furthermore, subfloors must not slope more than 1/2in per 6ft.

The subfloor must also be Clean and cleared of any debris that may interfere with the floors or the installation. Lastly, the Moisture levels of the subfloor should be DRY and measured prior to installation using a moisture meter.
Moisture levels should not exceed 4 percent for concrete and 12 percent for plywood.

Subfloor Types
Plywood
Plywood subfloor is suitable for use with any of our vinyl products. ¾” Plywood is ideal for subfloors.

O.S.B.
Oriented Strand Board (O.S.B.) is an alternative to plywood made up of 3–4-inch strands of wood which are layered and glued together, then pressed. We advise the use of ¾” or stamped exterior grade O.S.B. Note: Building codes in Canada require minimum ⅝” thick O.S.B.

Concrete
For new concrete, allow a minimum of 60 days cure time prior to the use of concrete moisture tests. Various methods and testing devices exist to check the moisture level of a concrete subfloor.

GENERAL INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

Important

Grandeur Flooring requires that vinyl flooring products must be installed by an authorized professional. Failure to do so will void the product warranty for your vinyl flooring.
It is the Installer/Homeowner’s responsibility to ensure the jobsite, environment, sub-floor conditions and climatization meet all of Grandeur Flooring’s requirements.
Prior to installation, flooring should be inspected, if you feel in anyway the product is not to standard STOP installation and immediately contact your retailer.
The installer or homeowner is fully responsible for all installed vinyl flooring. A 5%-10% waste allowance should be included with total square footage.
Prior to installation, installer or homeowner must carefully check planks for any defects. Any plank that has been installed will be deemed acceptable.

NOTE : THE MAXIMUM RUN LENGTH IS 13.72M (45”) IN EITHER DIRECTION. INSTALLATION EXCEEDING THIS SIZE WILL REQUIRE TRANSITION STRIPS OR THE FLOOR MUST BE TOTALLY ADHERED TO THE SUBFLOOR (FULL SPREAD — FOLLOWING ADHESIVE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS).

INSTALLATION

As vinyl flooring is designed to mimic a natural appearance, it is normal to have slight variations from plank to plank.
When installing, it is recommended to open several boxes at a time to mix and evenly distribute planks to balance out color variations.

First Row
Start in a corner of the longest and straightest wall by placing the first plank with the tongue side facing the wall.
Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 6.35mm (1/4’) between the wall and the flooring.
NOTE : This spacing must also be maintained between the floor and all vertical surfaces, including cabinets, posts, partitions, door jambs and door tracks. You will also need to use transition strips in doorways and between rooms. Failure to do so may cause buckling or gapping.
To attach your second plank, lower and lock the end tongue of the second plank into the end groove of the first plank. Line up edges carefully to ensure a close and tight fit. Using a rubber mallet, lightly tap the top of the end joints where the first and second planks lock together. The planks should lay flat to the floor.
Warning: Failure to properly line up the end joint and attempting to force it in while out of alignment could result in permanent damage to the end joint.
Repeat this procedure for each subsequent plank in the first row. Continue connecting the first row until you reach the last full plank. Fit the last plank by rotating the plank 180° with the pattern side upward and placing it beside the first row of planks with its end up against the far wall.
Line a ruler up across the end of the last full plank and across this new plank. Draw a line across the new plank with a pencil, score with a utility knife and snap off.
Rotate the plank 180° so that it is back to its original orientation. Lower and lock its end tongue into the end groove of the last full plank. Lightly tap the top of the end joints with a rubber mallet until the planks are flat on the floor.

You will begin the next row with the off-cut piece from the previous row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be a minimum of 200mm long and joint offset should be at least 400mm. Cut pieces should be no less than 152.4mm in length and 76.2mm in width. Adjust layout for a balanced look.
Subsequent Rows
To start your second row, rotate the cut-off piece from the previous row 180° so that it is back to its original orientation. Tilt and push its side tongue into the side groove of the very first plank. When lowered, the plank will click into place. Using a tapping block and rubber mallet, lightly tap the long side of the new plank to lock it with the planks of the first row. The planks should lay flat to the floor.
Attach the second plank of the new row first on the long side. Tilt and push plank into place, making sure edges are lined up. Lower plank to the floor. Using a tapping block and rubber mallet, lightly tap the long side of the new plank to lock it into place. Next, lightly tap down on the top of the end joints with a rubber mallet to lock them together. Continue laying remaining planks in this manner.

Last Row
To fit the last row, lay a plank on top of the previous row with its the tongue to the wall. Lay a ruler across the plank so that it is lined up with the side of the planks of the previous row and draw a line across the new plank with a pencil. Don’t forget to allow room for spacers. Cut the plank with a utility knife and attach into position.
Door frames and heating vents also require expansion room. First, cut the plank to the correct length. Then, place the cut plank next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side. You can trim for door frames by turning a plank upside down and using a handsaw to cut away the necessary height so that planks slide easily under the frames. Remove the spacers once the floor is completely installed.