Wellmade HDPC Waterproof Hardwood or Waterproof Strand Bamboo Flooring Installation Guide
- June 10, 2024
- Wellmade
Table of Contents
HDPC Waterproof Hardwood or Waterproof Strand Bamboo Flooring
– Installation Guide
HDPC® Waterproof Hardwood or Waterproof Strand Bamboo Flooring
Well-made Waterproof HDPC® Hardwood / Strand Bamboo Flooring is a 100%
Waterproof engineered plank flooring that bonds a real wood or real strand
bamboo veneer to our HDPC (High Density Plastic Composite) backing to form one
plank and features the Unclick™ locking system and is installed as a clueless
floating floor. The interlocking planks lock together, can be installed over
most floor surfaces, and is suitable for both residential and light commercial
interior applications. For technical information or questions, you can email:
tech@wellmadefloors.com , or call
866.582.0848 (US only); outside the US, call 503.582.0848.
General Information
WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood
- Purchase enough flooring to cover 105% of the area measured, this will allow for waste.
- Flooring should be transported and stored in a neatly stacked fashion on a smooth flat surface.
- Acclimation is beneficial but not required; if acclimatizing, the flooring should be stored in the room it will be installed for a minimal 24 hours for easier installation.
- Maintain a constant temperature between 60° and 85°F (15.56° and 29.44°C) and relative humidity (air) between 25% – 60%.
- Well made HDPC® Planks should only be installed after other trades have finished and the jobsite has been cleaned and cleared of debris that could potentially damage a finished floor.
- Inspect flooring for damage, defects, or shading issues before installation; claims for visual defects will not be accepted after cutting and/or installed.
- Due to color variations in a natural product, mix and install planks from several different cartons during installation to ensure a random appearance.
- Leave 3/8 inch room for expansion around the entire perimeter of the flooring or any vertical obstacle like pipes or posts.
- Flooring should be protected from direct sunlight to prevent fading and discoloration attributed from UV exposure.
- Protect your flooring from scratches by following our maintenance procedures below.
- This flooring is designed for interior use and should not be installed in exterior conditions.
- When waterproofing an area (see bottom section under “waterproofing”), make sure to use 100% silicone, stay away from acrylic caulk.
- Product must be installed in accordance with Well made installation guidelines.
Pre-Installation
Subfloors:
Planks can be installed over a variety of subfloor surfaces including concrete
on all grade levels, wood and many other existing hard surface floors. The
subfloors must be clean, smooth, flat, solid (no movement), and dry. Do not
install planks over floors that are sloped for drainage. Any uneven areas
greater than 3/16 inch (4.76mm) in a 10 foot (3.05m) radius should be leveled
with a Portland cement based patching compound. Our Well made HDPC® Planks are
resistant to water damage, but they do not prevent the transmission of
moisture. Care should be taken to keep moisture from collecting on either side
of the flooring to prevent the growth of unhealthy mold and mildew.
Moisture Testing:
Sub-floor moisture testing is necessary, it will alert you of current moisture
issues that may affect the installation and promote the growth of unhealthy
mold and mildew which could potentially affect you and your family’s health,
as well as the flooring. You may want to consult with a professional for
proper testing and guidance. Moisture levels above 12% in wood subfloors or
4.5 on moisture encounter meters for concrete subfloors can promote the growth
of mold and should be investigated to determine the cause and solution of the
problem.
Checking for moisture: Use a Lingo Duo Tec (or equivalent) moisture meter for
wood, or a Trimix Concrete Moisture Encounter meter (or equivalent) for
concrete. You can also use a calcium chloride test for concrete; test results
above 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft., (or 85% RH using in-situ probes) in a 24 hour
period can indicate a more extreme moisture issue and should be investigated.
Concrete Subfloors:
Planks can be installed over concrete on all grade levels if a proper moisture
barrier is used. A minimum 6 mil polyethylene moisture barrier should be used
with concrete subfloors. Moisture vapor emissions should not exceed 5 lbs./24
hour per 1,000 sq. when tested with the Anhydrous Calcium Chloride Test in
accordance with ASTM F 1869 or 85% RH in accordance with ASTM F 2170 “Standard
Test Method for Determining Relative Humidity in Concrete Slabs using in situ
Probes. Any uneven areas greater than 3/16 inch (4.76mm) in a 10 foot (3.05m)
radius should be leveled with a Portland cement based patching compound. Holes
and cracks in the cement should be patched, and expansion joints should be
filled with a latex patching compound. Newly poured
concrete floors must cure for a minimum of 90 days. Please note it is the
person installing the floor and/or the homeowner’s responsibility to ensure
any moisture or alkalinity issues are resolved prior to installing the floor.
NOTE: Excessive moisture may cause the growth of unhealthy mold or mildew
and/or cause staining of the flooring which is not covered by our Warranty.
Wood Subfloors:
Planks should be installed over a smooth, flat, level wood subfloor,
underlayment grade plywood, Launa plywood and other underlayment’s recommended
by the manufacturer for use with a floating plank floor. Subfloor should be
flat within 3/16 inch (4.76mm) in a 10 foot (3.05m) radius. Wood subfloors
must be suspended at least 18″ above the ground. Adequate cross-ventilation
must be provided, and the ground surface of the crawl space should be covered
with a suitable vapor barrier. If installing over a crawl space, a minimum 6
mil polyethylene moisture barrier should be used.
NOTE: Avoid subfloors with excessive vertical movement or deflection
because subfloor movement may cause the locking mechanism to wear down, or
even break. Indications of excessive deflection are subfloor fastener release,
squeaking, compromised or sectional contours such as bowing or dipping in
floors and uneven flooring material. Nail or screw subfloor panels to secure
boards with excessive vertical movement or deflection prior to installation of
the flooring material. Our warranties DO NOT cover any problems caused by
inadequate substructures or improper installation of substructures.
Recommended Areas:
This flooring is suitable for installation in most areas of your home,
including basements. This floor may not be suitable for vacations homes or
homes where the temperature is not controlled year-round. Care should be taken
not to expose the flooring to standing water or liquids for extended periods
of time, as it may damage the floor.
Existing Flooring:
Our Well made HDPC® Wood Planks can be installed over a variety of finished
floors including single layer resilient sheet flooring/ tile, ceramic, marble
and terrazzo. The surface must be in good condition and show no signs of
excessive moisture conditions. Grout joints and heavy embossing in tile or
vinyl should be leveled so they are flush with the flooring surface.
Additionally, the tile may require several skim coats to achieve that flat
surface. Carpet, heavily cushioned vinyl floors or vinyl floors consisting of
multiple layers are NOT a suitable subfloor for installation.
Radiant Heat Subfloors:
Well made HDPC® Planks can be installed over in-floor radiant heating systems
provided the subfloor surface does not exceed 85°F (29.44°C) at any point. The
initial floor temperature should not exceed 70°F (21.11°C) for 24 hours prior,
during, and 48 hours after installation. Thereafter the temperature should be
gradually increased to the desired setting up to 85°F (29.44°C). Because heat
does affect both plastic and wood, you may need additional room for expansion
(larger expansion gap) and contraction (wider base to allow for contraction)
Electrical heating systems that are installed on top of the subfloor surface
and not encased with self-leveling underlayment are not recommended.
Important Notes:
Before removing any existing resilient flooring or tiles, please consult
with a flooring professional to determine if asbestos abatement is necessary
to avoid exposure. See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering
Institute (RFCI) publication “Recommended Work Practices for Removal of
Resilient Floor Coverings” for detailed information and instructions on
removing all resilient covered structures.
Moisture Barrier and Underlayment Padding Recommendation for Wood
Flooring:
Since there is an attached padding, no additional padding should be used,
never install this product over a secondary pad. Over a concrete slab a
moisture barrier is recommended. Moisture barrier should consist of at least a
6 mil polyethylene film with the sheets overlapping 6” and taped to prevent
moisture migrating to the flooring.
Moisture Barrier and Underlayment Padding Recommendation for Bamboo
Flooring:
Bamboo planks can be installed with or without a cushion/padding; it is the
discretion of the installer/home owner, the pad must be designed and suitable
for floating floors. Installations over a concrete slab; a moisture barrier is
highly recommended but not required, and should consist of at least a 6 mil
polyethylene film with the sheets overlapping 6” and taped to prevent moisture
migrating to the flooring.
Pre-installation inspection:
It is the duty of the person installing the floor to inspect all flooring
before installation. If during inspection the installer or buyer feels the
floors is the wrong color, improperly manufactured, is off-grade or is the
wrong gloss level, he/she should NOT install the flooring. Please immediately
contact the retailer from which the flooring was purchased. No claims will the
accepted for flooring which is visibly wrong if such flooring is installed.
Installed flooring is deemed to be visibly acceptable.
General Tips
- Make sure the HVAC is operational and running.
- Remove wall base and undercut door jambs.
- Do not secure individual planks to the subfloor as it is designed to be a floating floor.
- Do not install cabinets on top of your floating floor.
- It is recommended to separate all rooms using T molding, for separations in rooms larger than 40’ x 40’ call for recommendations.
Installation
-
First, determine how you want the flooring to run. Typically for plank products the flooring runs the length of the room. There may be exceptions since it is all a matter of preference.
-
To avoid narrow plank widths or short plank lengths near the walls/doors, it is important to do some preplanning. Using the width of the room, calculate how many fallboards will fit into the area and how much space remains that will need to be covered
by partial planks. -
Start with a whole plank in the left hand corner of the room with the tongue side and end toward the wall.
Lay the first row of planks along a chalk line and trim to fit to the wall allowing a 3/8 inch (6.35mm) expansion space. If starting the first row with a whole width plank it will be necessary to trim the tongues next to the wall, then place the cut ends next to the wall using spacers. To trim the planks, a table saw works best for both end and length cuts. -
Align and attach the end joints of the planks in the first row using the fold down method, tap the surface using a block to lock the joints securely. For length joints insert the tongue into the groove while holding the plank at a 20° to 30° angle to the floor. Apply pressure inward and down until the planks lock together, you may use additional tapping if necessary. Use spacers between the long edge and end of the planks next to the wall to maintain the expansion space.
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Start the second row using 1/3rd of a plank. Place the cut end against the wall. Insert the tongue on the long side of the plank into the groove of the plank in the first row. Hold the plank in a 20° to 30° angle while applying pressure inward and down until they lock together. To complete the second and all successive rows, it will be necessary to align the short end onto the previous plank first before locking the long side of the plank. Angle the plank and push the tongue into the groove and adjust it until the tongue
locks into place. It may be necessary to tap the planks inward to lock the joint together. Complete the second row allowing 3/8 inch expansion space at the start and end of each row. -
Start the third row using a 2/3rd length of a plank with the cut end against the wall. Complete each row thereafter using a random layout with end joints off-set by at least 8”. Plan the layout to avoid using small planks (less than 6”) at the walls and stagger the end joints 6 to 8 inches. The cut piece at the end of the row can often be used to start the next row provided it achieves a random layout. Always place the cut end against the wall and allow for the expansion space. There should never be a cut piece in the field of
the installed area, all cuts are along the perimeter. -
Well made HDPC Planks are unique in that they can also be installed using a tapping block and rubber mallet or hammer and pull bar in difficult areas such as the last row and when fitting under door trim. Always use a pull bar on the cut edge of the plank, factory edges can be damaged if the pull bar is used directly against them.
-
When fitting around door trim it will be necessary to slide the plank under the trim. This can be accomplished easily by starting the row on the side of the room with the door trim and then sliding the plank into place once it is attached. The row can be completed by inserting the tongue onto the groove or the groove under the tongue depending on the direction. A tapping block and pull bar (Diagrams 2a & 2b) can also be used to lock the joints together while the planks are in a flat position. Use a series of light taps until the joint is gradually locked together.
Bathrooms: Well made
HDPC planks and be installed in full and half bathrooms. When Well made
HDPC® Planks are installed in a bathroom, remember that wood and water do not
get along and to avoid standing water if possible. The flooring should be
installed around the toilet leaving a 1/8 inch (3.175mm) expansion space. Use
100% silicone caulking to fill the expansion space at the toilet, tub, shower,
and all wet areas to help prevent surface water seepage from going under the
floor.
Pipes: In rows where there is a pipe or other vertical object through the
subfloor, make sure the object lines up exactly where two boards will meet on
the short ends. Take care to measure carefully before cutting, so the two
boards end at the middle of the object. Use a drill or hole bit that is the
diameter of the pipe or object, plus 1/2 inch (12.7mm) for
expansion/contraction. Lay the two short sides of the boards together, then
drill the hole centered on the joint between the boards as shown. Now you can
separate the two boards and install as normal. See Diagrams 6A – 6C.
Transitions, moldings, and wall base
Waterproofing: When trying to create a totally waterproof area, you will need
to run a small bead of 100% silicone around the perimeter, this can be done as
you are installing your base (under the base), or after the base has been
installed (in front of the base), and under all transitions. This will create
a permanent seal around the perimeter to keep water from absorbing through the
edges under the base and trim.
T transitions are recommended in all doorways to allow each room to move
independently. All transition pieces should be attached to the subfloor using
the recommended attachment method for the transition purchased. Never attach
the transitions directly to the flooring using nails, screws, or adhesives.
All transition moldings must also be sealed to the flooring using a small bead
of 100% silicone between the transition moldings and the flooring. Be sure to
wipe off any excess silicone using mineral spirits paint thinner, or denatured
alcohol, and a clean cloth. When cured, 100% silicone is rubberized and will
allow the floor to move while preventing topical moisture from penetrating
under the transition molding.
Note: Waterproof Protection against topical moisture/spills, excludes
damage from flooding. Topical Moisture/Spills should be wiped up as soon as
possible.
Finishing The Job:
Inspect your work, as it will cost you more if you have to come back to do a
repair later. Replace original baseboards, or install matching baseboard.
Install matching transitions as needed or recommended by your dealer or
installer. It is not recommended or necessary to use a topical sealer on this
floor after installation. Protect your floor from scratches by using felt
pads on chair legs or furniture feet. Plastic rollers/castors can damage your
flooring; if necessary try to replace with softer rubber wheels/castors. When
moving heavy items like refrigerators, use at least two sheets of 1/4″
Masonite or plywood while moving (sliding the appliance from one sheet to the
next) to protect the flooring against scratching and denting.
Congratulations!
You have just installed a beautiful, and elegant Well-made HDPC® Hardwood /
Strand Bamboo Floor!
Warranty:
For a copy of the warranty, please go to: http://wellmadefloors.com
/HDPC_warranty-install
HDPCWOODSTRANINST080719
Documents / Resources
|
Wellmade HDPC Waterproof Hardwood or Waterproof Strand Bamboo
Flooring
[pdf] Installation Guide
HDPCEB-032-S, HDPC Waterproof Hardwood or Waterproof Strand Bamboo Flooring,
HDPC, Waterproof Hardwood or Waterproof Strand Bamboo Flooring, Hardwood or
Waterproof Strand Bamboo Flooring, Waterproof Strand Bamboo Flooring, Strand
Bamboo Flooring, Bamboo Flooring, Flooring
---|---