HeliBars BMW R18 Transcontinental Bagger Tour Commander

Product Information

The HeliBars Tour Commander P/N: HB05138 is designed to increase long-distance comfort and improve the handling of 2022+ BMW R18 Transcontinental/Bagger motorcycles. The handlebars have an increased width of 1 inch (25mm) to 33 inches (850mm) for reduced steering effort, a reduced rear angle by over 20 degrees for a more natural wrist angle, and 0-6 (0-150mm) adjustment height to fit taller riders and to cover more riding styles. The installation of HeliBars is dangerous and must be done by a qualified mechanic following the installation instructions provided to avoid serious injury or death. After installation, it is important to move the bars lock to lock and check the clearance of cables, hydraulic lines, wires, fairing, and fuel tank. All hardware should be torqued to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Product Usage Instructions

1. Have a qualified mechanic install the HeliBars following the installation instructions provided.
2. Use caution when working with your hydraulic systems as brake fluid can be corrosive to plastic & paint. Ensure all work areas are protected.
3. After installation, move the bars lock to lock and check clearance of cables, hydraulic lines, wires, fairing, and fuel tank.
4. Torque all hardware to the manufacturer’s specifications.
5. If you have any questions regarding installation, call 1-800-859-4642.

Thank you for your HeliBars® purchase.
HeliBars are designed to increase your long-distance comfort and improve the handling of your motorcycle, and we feel confident you will enjoy them. It is of the utmost importance the bars are installed by a mechanic with good mechanical skills following the installation instructions provided.

• Increased width 1” (25mm) to 33 Inches (measured from the end of the grips) (850mm) for reduced steering effort.
• Reduced rear angle by over 20 degrees for a more natural wrist angle. (Our bars are at a 22-degree angle, and stock bars are 45 degrees.)
• 0-6” (0-150mm) adjustment height to fi t taller riders and to cover more riding styles. (0” = Stock Height)

HeliBars INSTALLATION
DANGER: IMPROPER INSTALLATION COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. HAVE A QUALIFIED MECHANIC INSTALL YOUR HeliBars. BRAKE FLUID CAN BE CORROSIVE TO PLASTIC & PAINT. PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING WITH YOUR HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS. ENSURING ALL WORK AREAS ARE PROTECTED. AFTER INSTALLATION, MOVE BARS LOCK TO LOCK AND CHECK CLEARANCE OF: 1. CABLES 2. HYDRAULIC LINES 3. WIRES 4. FAIRING 5.FUEL TANK. TORQUE ALL HARDWARE TO THE MANUFACTURER’S SPECIFICATIONS. IF YOU HAVE INSTALLATION QUESTIONS, PLEASE CALL 1-800-859-4642.

WARRANTY / RETURN POLICY

We make every effort to build a quality product so you can fully enjoy your riding experience. Thank you for your order. HeliBars® may be returned for defects in materials and workmanship within one year from the date of shipment to the original purchaser, in which event the purchaser may receive a replacement set of HeliBars. If within thirty (30) days of the shipping date, you are not satisfied for any reason, you can return the HeliBars. The return policy is valid for the original purchaser only. If HeliBars are purchased from a vendor other than Heli Modified, Inc., the customer must contact the vendor where purchased regarding returns. Refund will be extended to the original purchaser only. There are no other warranties that extend beyond this.

Conditions of this 30-day return policy

1. Bars must not be used as a tie-down point. (See attached ‘Trailering Instructions’).
2. Bars cannot be damaged, dented, or altered in any way.
3. Bars cannot be over-torqued.
4. Refund will be for product purchase price only and credited to the original purchaser only.
5. The product must be returned with all original equipment and documents and in original packaging. There must be no physical damage caused by the customer or by the carrier.
6. A Return Authorization Number must be obtained from us before you return the product.

We reserve the right to charge a re-stocking fee of up to 25% if the above criteria are not met.
THERE ARE NO FURTHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. By accepting this product, the consumer agrees to arbitrate and litigate any controversy in the State of Maine, and under the laws of the State of Maine.
HELI MODIFIED INC. ASSUMES NO LIABILITY FOR ANY INJURY OR LOSS OF PROPERTY WHICH RESULTS FROM IMPROPER INSTALLATION OR USE OF ANY HELI BARS. ALL HELI MODIFIED, INC. PRODUCTS SHOULD BE INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED MECHANIC. IMPROPER INSTALLATION MAY CAUSE DEATH OR INJURY.

Installation Overview

CAUTION: This handlebar is supplied with a longer upper clutch and front brake hydraulic lines that must be installed before the factory bars are removed. It will not be possible to mount the master cylinders to the Tour Commander handlebars if the factory lines are not replaced. Follow the instructions closely for a successful installation.
DANGER: Dot 4 brake fluid is damaging to painted and plastic parts. Protect surfaces carefully. We also recommend covering the fuel tank with a thick cloth material to protect the finishes.
Note: It is required that a great deal of the fairing be disassembled to access the mounting area of the front forks to change handlebars. This process will move more smoothly if the hardware remains with the component removed. Organization rules and assures a good installation with no missing hardware.

Required Tools

• Torx tools T8 – T50
• Torque wrench
• Protective material for fuel tank
• Clean rags. Paper towels.

Instructions

1. Using a T25 Torx screwdriver loosen and remove the 6 screws securing the windscreen to the fairing. Hold the screen when the last screws are removed so it doesn’t fall. Keep screws and the plastic cups in a zip lock bag or remounted in the screen. See Photo #1

2. Remove the 2 screws holding the dash cover on the fairing. See Photos #2 & 3. Pull up and back to release push clips. See Photo #4. The 2 screws holding the dash cover are the shortest torx screws used to assemble the fairing components so keep them in a small container.

3. Remove the 2 screws on the outside ends of the instrument cluster. See Photo #5. Remove the center screw. See photo #6. Remove the last 2 screws from the instrument cluster. See Photo #7. Carefully cut the cable tie holding the instrument cluster large connector in place. See Photo #8. Disconnect the larger instrument cluster connector by pressing down on the release tab. See Photo 9, red arrow.

4. Find the 2nd (smaller) instrument cluster wire loom connector on the left side of the bike. Cut the small cable tie. See Photo #10. Pull up the wire connector with a clip from the fairing, red arrow See Photo #11. Separate the instrument’s 2nd smaller connector by pushing down on; the red arrow, See Photo #12.

5. Pull and wiggle the instrument cluster back until the two spring-loaded push pins release. See Photo #13. Carefully pull the two wire looms and connectors back out of their access slots and set instruments aside.

6. Pull the chrome and silver cover straight back off the monitor. See Photo #14, which shows the 4 spring loaded tabs that hold it in place, there are no screws on this cover.

7. Remove the radar adaptive control cover by removing the 2 screws, lifting the rear edge, and moving it forward slightly to disengage tabs. See Photos #15 & 16.

8. Remove the speaker cover upper screws. Right side is shown in Photo #17. Remove the middle screw. See Photo #18. Remove the lower screw. See Photo #19. Remove the right speaker cover by pulling rearward. Repeat on the left side and remove the cover.

9. Remove the lower inner fairing covers that cover the bottoms of the speakers. Remove the screw on, right side. See Photo #20. Remove 2nd screw. See Photo #21. Remove the wind deflector and fairing cover. See Photo #22. Repeat on left side. The 2 screws are longer and must stay with the deflector.

10. Remove the radar cover mounting trim by removing the 2 screws and pulling forward. See Photo #23.

11. Remove the lower fairing trim below the headlight by removing 2 screws and flipping the cover down to disengage tabs. See Photo #24. Remove the fairing lower inner mounting screws. See Photo #25. Remove the right side fairing body panel upper mounting screw. See Photo #26. Pull the panel forward to release the nipples. See Photo #27. Carefully rotate the panel while lifting to clear the running lights. Repeat on bike’s left side panel.

12. To gain access to the inner fairing body mounts, the radar mounting bracket needs to slide forward. Remove the 3 screws shown in Photo #28 and move it forward slightly. This will allow straight access to the inner fairing mounting screws.

13. Remove speakers and acoustic chambers.
    A. On bike’s right side unplug the connector by pushing in tab. See Photo

    29, red arrow. Follow wire See Photo #29 (blue arrow) and unplug the

    connector. This is the antenna.
    B. Pull connect off the chamber. See Photo # 30.
    C. Remove the 4 screws that connect the speaker chamber. Lower outside, Photo #31. Lower forward, Photo #32. Mid-mount, Photo #33. Upper mount, Photo

    34. All these screws are slightly longer and must remain with the speaker

    housing. Repeat on the left side. Make sure all speaker housing rubber mounting bushings have their washer in place. It’s common during disassembly for the washer to fall out. If this happens, just locate and re-attach the washers. See Photo #35.

14. Loosen the lower 2 fairing mounting screws 2-3 complete turns. See Photos #36 & 37. Use a T45 Torx. Loosen and remove the top 4 screws holding the fairing in place. Top right side, See Photo #38. Top left side, See Photo #39. For top center screws, See Photo #40. Now the fairing can pivot rearward allowing access to remove the factory handlebar.

15. Remove rubber cable ties from wire loom/hydraulic lines. See Photo #41. Remove (carefully) cable ties from wire looms, hydraulic lines and handlebars, See Photos # 42 & 43, on the right side and on the left, See Photo #44.

16. Remove factory upper brake and clutch hydraulic lines and replace with supplied Galfer lines. Starting on the right side:
    A. Front brake line access is increased when the fairing is pivoted forward on the remaining 2 lower mounting screws. Place several folded shop rags between the fairing and the fork in front of the handlebar mount to keep the fairing in a forward position.
    B. Place rags under the front brake master cylinder and leave the reservoir cover in place. Do not contact the brake lever at any time during the swap. Loosen and remove the upper banjo bolt using a T40 Torx. The banjo bolt will be re-used, but not the sealing washers. See Photo #45. Very little fluid will be lost. Loosen and remove the lower banjo fitting and the line and remove from the bike. Keep a folded-up paper towel under the tower fitting to catch the fluid in the line.
    C. Locate one of the Galfer Bleeder banjo fittings. Remove the rubber cover. Place a copper washer on the bleeder bolt first, place it through the lower banjo fitting of the front brake hydraulic line (fitting opposite the Master Cylinder Tag) then place a 2nd copper washer over the banjo bolt. Using a deep 12mm socket, rotate the banjo fitting in so it’s snug. Rotate the lower fitting so it looks like Photo #46. The fitting position is correct when it’s angled back towards the bar. Torque to 12 ft lbs/16 NM lightly tighten the bleeder bolt. These bleeder bolts have very fine threads so don’t over- tighten. Use an 8mm wrench.
    D. Make sure the line stays on top of the stock bar. There is going to be alot of extra slack in the line. Using two more copper washers (one on either side of the fitting) re-attach the line to the master cylinder, as shown in Photo #47. Torque to 12 ft lbs/16 NM.
    E. Place rags under the clutch master cylinders. Remove upper banjo bolt and do not contact the clutch lever. See Photo #48. Remove the lower fitting. Place a paper towel or a rag under line to catch fluid and remove line.
    F. Install clutch line. The upper master cylinder banjo fitting is tagged. Place a copper washer over the other banjo bleeder bolt, place that through the lower banjo fi thing followed by the second washer. Position lower fitting so it is positioned as shown in Photo #49. Line is now positioned above the handlebar. Torque to 12 ft-lbs, lightly snug bleeder. Remove the rubber cap for easier access. The fitting should be angled back and out from the fork to be positioned correctly.

17. Remove handlebar controls and factory handlebar
    A. Remove left and right side bar end damper weights. See Photo #50. Usa a T55 Torx bit socket.
    B. Remove the left and right master cylinders and clamps. Carefully rest them on the protection-covered fuel tank. Temporarily tie the master cylinders together to keep them from falling off the tank. See Photo #51.
    C. Peel back the left side grip to expose the mounting screw. See Photo

    52. Using a T15 screwdriver, back the screw out enough so you can grab it.

    See Photo #53. Slowly rotate and slide grip off tube.
    D. Using a T8 long nose bit remove screw from the lower half of the throttle housing. See Photo #54. These screws are small so take care not to lose them. Seperate the two halves of the throttle cover by pressing down on the low half seam in front of the cover. See Photo #55. Carefully remove lower cover by twisting and guiding
    it past the wires. See Photo #56. Remove the second screw holding the top half of the throttle housing cover in place. See Photo #57. Remove last screw (T15) and carefully twist and pull the throttle housing off bar. See Photo #58.
    E. Use a T40 socket and a 12” (or so) extension to loosen and remove the 4 screws and 2 handlebar clamps, hold onto the handlebar to keep it from falling. See Photo #59
    F. With your free hand (or your assistant) push the fairing forward enough to free the factory bar. See Photos #60 & 61.
    G. Position the Tour Commander bar in the mount and install clamp. Slide the bar left or right until the knurlings are equal on both clamps. See Photo

    62. Rotate bar up or down. Final adjustments can be made later. Tighten the

    forward 2 screws. Snug down rear screws to keep bars from rotating, but do NOT torque yet. 18.) Install controls onto Tour Commander handlebars.
    A. Slide the throttle over bar, align the mounting hole, install the screw and tighten. See Photo #63. Place the top cover into position, insert the screw and tighten (refer to photo #57). Re-position the lower cover by carefully navigating it around the wire leads until it can be snapped back into position. Engage the rear edge first and snap the forward halves together. (refer to photo #56). Position the final screw and tighten it (refer to photo #54).
    B. Using the blue Loctite provided coat the end of the bar end damper weight screw, insert the damper/screw assembly into the right handlebar and torque to 19 NM (14 ft lbs) using a 55 Torx bit. (refer to photo #50)
    C. Install front brake master cylinder in place. Keep it as close to the throttle housing as possible. Install clamp and screw, adjust lever up or down within the range of available adjustment. Start both screws but tighten upper screw first. See Photo #64.
    D. Install left grip/control assembly and gently twist slightly as you push it into position (refer back to photo #52). Tighten the screw with T15 screwdriver. Install clutch master cylinder, position clamp and start screws. Move master cylinder close to the left control housing, adjust the lever height and tighten the clamp starting at the top. See Photo #65.

18. Adjust and torque the handlebar
    A. Rotate bars up or down to desired location by fi rst loosening the rear 2 clamp screws and then the forward
    2 if required. Tighten forward 2 screws fi rst and rear 2 screws second. Slowly rotate bar from the left steering stop to the right steering stop. Confi rm bars are where you like. See Photo #66. Re-adjust clutch and front brake lever angle and re-tighten if an adjustment is required.

19. Torque handlebar mounting clamp screws starting with the 2 forward screws fi rst to 24 NM (18 ft lbs) followed by the rear 2 screws. (refer to photo #59) for clarity.

20. Bleed front brake and clutch lever. At this time, leave the reservoir cover in place. Do NOT bleed brakes at the calipers, it’s not required or necessary. It may not even be necessary to remove them or add hydraulic fl uid. Start with the front brake. Turn the bars all the way to the left steering stop. Depress the front brake about 1/4 to 1/2 inch by tapping it quickly with your open fingers then release quickly. See Photo #67. Repeat this several times, resting for a few seconds in between. This generally works quickly allowing air to be replaced by hydraulic fl uid in the new brake line with air moving up into the master cylinder pump. Pull in the brake lever until it stops. If it contacts the throttle grip keep repeating the tapping then follow by pulling in the lever and quickly releasing it so it snaps out. This is what releases tiny bubbles of air into the reservoir. Once you have a good amount of front brake pressure, open the bleeder quickly and close it before releasing lever.

21. Continued Place a paper towel over the bleeder before opening it. It’s helpful to have an assistant hold the fairing forward for easier access to the bleeder. After front brake is bled make sure the bleeder is tightened. Do NOT over-tighten as those fine threads are easily stripped. Clean off end of the bleeder and apply a rubber cover. Repeat the process on the clutch side. It is very helpful to sit on the bike in the upright position and rotate the forks all the way to the right steering stops. This will greatly shorten the time needed for all the air to re-enter the reservoir. Place cable ties provided on left and right bar risers to hold hydraulic lines and wire looms in place. See Photo #68 & 69.

22. Re-install fairing components. Reverse the disassembly process

• A. Install the top 4 fairing mounting bolts. Torque all 6 mounting screws to 14 ft. lbs. Reposition radar mount, insert 3 regular screws and tighten.
• B. Re-install speaker chambers. Use the middle (longer) screws 4 per side. Re-attach all connectors.
• C. Install fairing side bodywork, lower headlight small body cover.
• D. Re-install speaker silver covers.
• E. Install lower speaker covers and wind deflectors.
• F. Install fl at the screen, make connections, and tighten.
• G. Install instrument cluster, make connections, and tighten.
• H. Install fairing side bodywork, lower headlight small body cover.
• I. Dash cover components.
• J. Install the windscreen using the longest screws.

CAUTION!! BARS MUST BE TORQUED TO SPECIFIED VALUES. THEY MUST NOT BE OVERTORQUED. OVERTIGHTENED HARDWARE CAN LOSE INTEGRITY.

For questions regarding installation please call 1-800-859-4642.
HELI MODIFIED, INC ASSUMES NO LIABILITY FOR ANY INJURY OR LOSS OF PROPERTY WHICH MAY RESULT FROM IMPROPER INSTALLATION OR USE OF ANY HELIBARS.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT POWDER-COATED HELIBARS

HeliBars® are finished with a polyester powder coating. The polyester is recommended for outdoor use because of it’s excellent UV-resistant quality; if we were to use an epoxy it would tend to fade and chalk pretty quickly when exposed to sunlight and UV rays. Care must be taken during installation because the finish can be scratched by the sharp surfaces of the controls and master cylinder clamps. When mounting the master cylinders to bars, do not let them move around the bars with the caps lose. Mount them in the proper position and hand-tighten the screws until final adjustments are made; in this way, you will lessen the possibility of scratching.

NOTE: Powder coat finish is not indestructible, there are chemicals that may react negatively when applied to finish. Brake fluid may cause deterioration of the finish. We do not recommend the use of acetone or similar chemicals for cleaning purposes. We would recommend the use of an over-the- counter adhesive remover (such as Goo Gone) for the removal of any extraneous material. Please read the label directions for any cleaning/polishing product before use. If you have any questions regarding the use of any over-counter products with the HeliBars, please call us before applying them to the powder- coated finish. If care is taken during installation, your HeliBars will continue to look as good as when they were new. They will look great for years to come with a bit of wax and careful cleaning. Thank you for your purchase, ride safe and enjoy!

Trailering with HeliBars®

HeliBars clip-ons and handlebars must not be used as the primary holding points for tie-downs while trailering. As with your stock bars applying extreme force to the ends of the bars can bend the bars or rotate them on their mounts. Use a wheel chock and pull the machine down and forward using soft ties or similar, attached to the lower triple clamp. Bars should only be used as secondary attachment points to steady the motorcycle from lateral sway. Failure to follow these guidelines can cause damage to the bars and the motorcycle, and may also void our warranty.

Installation Instructions – BMW R18 ~ HB05138 ~ PO Box 638 ~ 20 Industrial Way ~ Cornish, ME 04020 Toll Free: 800-859-4642 ~ Int’l: 207-625-4642 ~ Fax: 207-625-3024 ~ www.HeliBars.com

References

• HeliBars

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