DeWalt DW705 Compound Miter Saw User Manual

DeWalt DW705 Compound Miter Saw User Manual

Important Safety Instructions

WARNING: When using electric tools, basic safety precautions should
always be followed to reduce risk of fire, electric shock, and personal injury, including the following:

Double Insulation
Double-insulated tools are constructed throughout with two separate layers of electrical
insulation or one double thickness of insulation between you and the tool’s electrical system. Tools built with this insulation system are not intended to be grounded. As a result, your tool is equipped with a two-prong plug which permits you to use extension cords without concern for maintaining a ground connection.
NOTE: Double insulation does not take the place of normal safety precautions when operating this tool. The insulation system is for added protection against injury resulting from a possible electrical insulation failure within the tool.
CAUTION: WHEN SERVICING USE ONLY IDENTICAL REPLACEMENT PARTS. Repair or replace damaged cords.

Polarized Plugs
Polarized plugs (one blade is wider than the other) are used on equipment to reduce the risk of electric shock. When provided, this plug will fit in the polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a
qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not change the plug in any way.

Safety Instructions For All Tools

• KEEPGUARDINPLACE and in working order.

• REMOVE ADJUSTINGKEYSANDWRENCHES. Form habit of checking to see tha keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from spindle before turning tool on.

• KEEPWORKAREACLEAN.Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents.

• DON’T USE IN DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENTS.Don’t use power tools in damp or wet locations, or expose them to rain. Keep work area well-lighted.

• KEEP CHILDREN AWAY.All visitors should be kept at a safe distance from work area.

• MAKEWORKSHOPKIDPROOF with padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter keys.

• DON’TFORCETOOL.It will do the job better and be safer at the rate for which it was designed.

• USERIGHTTOOL. Don’t force tool or attachments to do a job for which it was not
  designed.

• WEARPROPERAPPAREL. No loose clothing, gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets, or other jewelry to get caught in moving parts. Nonslip footwear is recommended. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.

• ALWAYSWEARSAFETYGLASSES.Also use face or dust mask if the cutting operation is dusty. Everyday eyeglasses have only impact-resistant lenses, they are NOT safety glasses.

• SECUREWORK.Use clamps or vise when you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand or when your hand will be dangerously close to the blade (within 6”).

• DON’T OVERREACH.Keep proper footing and balance at all times.

• MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE. Keep tools sharp and clean for best and safest performance. Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.

• DISCONNECT TOOLS before servicing; when changing accessories such as blades, bits, cutters, etc.

• REDUCETHERISKOFUNINTENTIONALSTARTING. Make sure switch is in OFF position before plugging in.

• USERECOMMENDEDACCESSORIES. Consult the instruction manual for recommended accessories. The use of improper accessories may cause risk of injury to per-sons.

• NEVERSTANDONTOOL.Serious injury could occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is unintentionally contacted.

• CHECK DAMAGED PARTS. Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended function—check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting and any other conditions that may affect its opera-tion. A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced. Do not use tool if switch does not turn it on and off.

• NEVERLEAVETOOLRUNNINGUNATTENDED. TURN THE POWER OFF. Don’t leave tool until it comes to a complete stop.

• DONOTOPERATEELECTRICTOOLSNEARFLAMMABLELIQUIDSORIN GASEOUSOREXPLOSIVEATMOSPHERES. Motors in these tools may spark and ignite fumes.

• EXTENSION CORDS.Make sure your extension cord is in good condition. When using an extension cord, be sure to use one heavy enough to carry the current your product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage resulting in loss of power and overheating. The following table shows the correct size to use depending on cord length and nameplate ampere rating. If in doubt, use the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage number, the heavier the cord.

Additional Safety Rules For Miter Saws
CAUTION: FAILURE TO HEED THESE WARNINGS MAY RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY AND SERIOUS DAMAGE TO THE SAW.

• DO – Protect electric supply line with at least a 15-ampere time-delay fuse or a circuit breaker.

• DO – Make certain the blade rotates in the correct direction and that the teeth at the bottom of the blade are pointing to the rear of the miter saw.

• DO – Be sure all clamp handles are tight before starting any operation.

• DO – Be sure all blade and clamp washers are clean and the recessed sides of collars are against the blade. Tighten arbor screw securely.

• DO – Keep saw blade sharp.

• DO – Keep motor air slots free of chips and dirt.

• DO – Use blade guards at all times.

• DO – Keep hands out of path of saw blade.

• DO – Shut off the power, disconnect cord from the power source and wait for saw blade to stop
  before servicing or adjusting tool.

• DO – Support long work with an outboard tool rest.

• DON’T – Attempt to operate on anything but designated voltage.

• DON’T – Operate unless all clamp handles are tight.

• DON’T – Use blades larger or smaller than those which are recommended.

• DON’T – Wedge anything against fan to hold motor shaft.

• DON’T – Force-cutting action. (Stalling or partial stalling of the motor can cause major damage. Allow motor to reach full speed before cutting.)

• DON’T – Cut ferrous metals (Those with any iron or steel content) or any masonry.

• DON’T – Use abrasive wheels. The excessive heat and abrasive particles generated by them will damage the saw.

• DON’T – Allow anyone to stand behind saw.

• DON’T – Apply lubricants to the blade when it’s running.

• DON’T – Place either hand in the blade area when the saw is connected to the power source.

• DON’T – Use blades rated less than 4800 R.P.M.

• DO NOT – Cut small pieces without clamping. Keep hands 6” or more from blade.

• DON’T – Operate saw without guards in place.

• DON’T – Perform any operation freehand.

• DON’T – Reach around or behind saw blade.

• DON’T – Place hands closer than 6 inches from the saw blade.

• DO NOT – Reach underneath the saw unless it is turned off and unplugged. The saw blade is exposed on the underside of the saw.

• DO NOT – Move either hand from saw or workpiece or raise arm until blade has stopped.

• DO NOT – Use without Kerf Plate or when kerf slot is wider than 3/8″.
  CAUTION: Wear appropriate personal hearing protection during use. Under some conditions and duration of use, noise from this product may contribute to hearing loss.
  WARNING : Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding, drilling, and other construction activities contains chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals are:

• lead from lead-based paints,

• crystalline silica from bricks and cement and other masonry products, and

• arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated lumber (CCA).
  Your risk from these exposures varies, depending on how often you do this type of work.
  To reduce your exposure to these chemicals: work in a well-ventilated area, and work with
  approved safety equipment, such as those dust masks that are specially designed to filter
  out microscopic particles.

• Avoid prolonged contact with dust from power sanding, sawing, grinding,
  drilling, and other construction activities. Wear protective clothing and wash
  exposed areas with soap and water. Allowing dust to get into your mouth, eyes, or lay
  on the skin may promote the absorption of harmful chemicals.
  WARNING : Use of this tool can generate and/or disburse dust, which may cause serious
  and permanent respiratory or another injury. Always use NIOSH/OSHA-approved respiratory
  protection appropriate for dust exposure. Direct particles away from face and body.
  For your convenience and safety, the following warning labels are on your miter saw.

ON MOTOR HOUSING:
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, READ THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING SAW.
WHEN SERVICING, USE ONLY IDENTICAL REPLACEMENT PARTS. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
DO NOT EXPOSE TO RAIN OR USE IN DAMP LOCATIONS.

ON MOVING FENCE:
ALWAYS ADJUST FENCE PROPERLY
BEFORE USE. Clamp small pieces before cutting. See manual.

ON GUARD:
DANGER – KEEP AWAY FROM BLADE.

ON-GUARD RETAINER PLATE:
PROPERLY SECURE THE BRACKET WITH BOTH SCREWS BEFORE USE.

ON DETENT PLATE: (2 PLACES)
ALWAYS TIGHTEN ADJUSTMENT KNOBS BEFORE USE.
KEEP HANDS 6″ FROM THE PATH OF SAW BLADE.
NEVER PERFORM ANY OPERATION FREEHAND.
NEVER CROSS YOUR ARMS IN FRONT OF BLADE.
THINK! YOU CAN PREVENT ACCIDENTS.
DO NOT OPERATE SAW WITHOUT GUARDS IN PLACE.
NEVER REACH IN BACK OF SAW BLADE.
TURN OFF TOOL, KEEP THE SAW HEAD DOWN AND WAIT FOR SAW BLADE TO
STOP BEFORE MOVING HANDS, WORKPIECE OR CHANGING SETTINGS.
UNPLUG THE TOOL BEFORE CHANGING THE BLADE, MOVING OR SERVICING THE UNIT.

Electrical Connection
Be sure your power supply agrees with the nameplate marking. 120 volts, AC/DC means that your saw will operate on alternating or direct current. A voltage decrease of 10 percent or more will cause a loss of power and overheating. All DEWALT tools are factory tested. If this tool does not operate, check the power supply.

Unpacking Your Saw
Check the contents of your miter saw carton to make sure that you have received all parts. In addition to this instruction manual, the carton should contain:

1. One No. DW705 miter saw.
2. One DEWALT 12″ dia. saw blade
3. One blade wrench in the wrench pocket is shown in Figure 2.
4. One DW7053 Dustbag (Some models)
5. One Side Table Extension (Some Models)

Familiarization
Your miter saw is fully assembled in the carton. Open the box and lift the saw out by the convenient carrying handle, as shown in Figure 1.
Place the saw on a smooth, flat surface such as a workbench or strong table.
Examine Figures 2 and 3 to become familiar with the saw and its various parts. The following section on adjustments will refer to these terms and you must know what and where the parts are.
Press down lightly on the operating handle and pull out the lockdown pin, as shown in Figure 4.

Gently release the downward pressure and allow the arm to rise to its full height. Use the lockdown pin when carrying the saw from one place to another.
Always use the carrying handle to transport the saw or the hand indentations shown in Figure 3.

Specifications

CAPACITY OF CUT
48-degree miter left and right 48-degree bevel left: 3 degrees right

• 0-degree miter
  • Max. Height 3.9″ Result Width 5.9″
  • Max. Width 7.9″ Result Height 2.5″
• 45-degree miter
  • Max. Height 3.9″ Result Width 4.1″
  • Max. Width 5.5″ Result Height 2.5″
• 45-degree bevel
  • Max. Height 2.7″ Result Width 5.9″
  • Max. Width 7.9″ Result Height 1.7″

DRIVE
120 Volt Motor
2000 Watts 15 Amp Motor
4000 RPM Cut Helical Gears
Automatic Electric Brake with Roller Bearings
Carbide Blade

Optional Accessories

The following accessories, designed for your saw, may be helpful. In some cases, other locally obtained work supports, length stops, clamps, etc., may be more appropriate. Use care in selecting and using accessories.

• Extension, Work Support: DW7050
  Used to support long overhanging workpieces, the work support is user- assembled and stores conveniently under the saw table. Your saw table is designed to accept two work supports; one on each side (page 4).

• Adjustable Length Stop: DW7051
  Requires the use of one work support (see above). It is used to make repetitive cuts of the same length from 0 to 42″ (page 4).

• Clamp: DW7052
  Used for firmly clamping the workpiece to the saw fence for precision cutting (page 4).

• Dust Bag: DW7053
  Equipped with a zipper for easy emptying, the dust bag will capture the majority of the sawdust produced. (Not shown))

• Crown Molding Fence: DW7054
  Used for precision cutting of crown molding (page 4).
  SAW BLADES: ALWAYS USE 12″ SAW BLADES WITH 1″ ARBOR HOLES. THE SPEED RATING MUST BE AT LEAST 4800 RPM.

CAT NO.| APPLICATION| BLADE DESC.| NO. OF TEETH| TYPE OF CUT
---|---|---|---|---
DW3128| Fine Trim

Molding

| Thin Kerf| 80| Smooth,

Splinter Free

DW3228| Fine Trim| Thick Kerf| 80| Very Smooth,
 | Molding|  |  | Splinter Free
DW7296| Fine Trim| Thick Kerf| 96| Ultra Smooth
 | Molding|  |  | Splinter Free
DW3123| Framing,| Thin Kerf| 32| Fast Cut
 | Decking|  |  |
DW3224| Framing,| Thick Kerf| 48| All around cutting
 | Decking|  |  |
DW3226| Trim, Framing

Decking

| Thick Kerf| 60| Smooth Cross Cuts
DW3229| Non-Ferrous| Thick Kerf| 80| Straight, burr free
 | Metals| special tooth|  |
 |  | grind|  |

Accessories

Recommended accessories for use with your tool are available at extra cost from your local service center.
CAUTION: The use of any non-recommended accessories such as dado sets, molding cutters, or abrasive wheels may be hazardous.
If you need assistance in locating any accessory, please contact DEWALT Industrial Tool Co.,
701 East Joppa Road, Baltimore, MD 21286 or call 1-800-4-DEWALT (1-800-433-9258).

Bench Mounting
Holes are provided in all four feet to facilitate bench mounting, as shown in Figure 2. (Two different-sized holes are provided to accommodate different sizes of screws. Use either hole, it is not necessary to use both.) Always mount your saw firmly to prevent movement. To enhance the tool’s portability, it can be mounted to a piece of 1/2″ or thicker plywood which can then be clamped to your work support or moved to other job sites and reclamped. NOTE: If you elect to mount your saw to a piece of plywood, make sure that the mounting screws don’t protrude from the bottom of the wood. The plywood must sit flush on the work support. When clamping the saw to any work sur-face, clamp only on the clamping bosses where the mounting screw holes are located. Clamping at any other point will surely interfere with the proper operation of the saw.
CAUTION:To prevent binding and inaccuracy, be sure the mounting surface is not warped or otherwise uneven. If the saw rocks on the surface place a thin piece of material under one saw foot until the saw sits firmly on the
mounting surface.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Changing or Installing a New Saw Blade (Fig. 5, 6)

CAUTION:

• Never depress the spindle lock button while the blade is under power or coasting.
• Do not cut ferrous metal (containing iron or steel) or masonry or fiber cement products with this miter saw.

Removing the Blade

1. Unplug the saw.
2. Raise the arm to the upper position and raise the lower guard (A) as far as possible.
3. Loosen, but do not remove guard bracket screw (B) until the bracket can be raised far enough to access the blade screw.
4. Depress the spindle lock button (Fig. 3) while carefully rotating the saw blade by hand until the lock engages.
5. Keeping the button depressed, use the other hand and the wrench provided (D) to loosen the blade screw.(Turn clockwise, left-hand threads)
6. Remove the blade screw (E), outer clamp washer (F), and blade (G). The 1″ (25.4mm) blade adapter (H), if used, and the inner clamp washer (I), may be left on the spindle.
   NOTE: For blades with a blade hole of 5/8″ (15.88mm), the 1″ (25.4mm) blade adapter is not used.

Installing a Blade

1. Unplug the saw.

2. With the arm raised, the lower guard held open and the pivot plate raised, place the blade on the spindle, onto the blade adapter [if using a blade with a 1″ (25.4mm) diameter blade hole] and against the inner clamp washer with the teeth at the bottom of the blade pointing toward the back of the saw.

3. Assemble the outer clamp washer onto the spindle.

4. Install the blade screw and, engaging the spindle lock, tighten the screw firmly with the wrench provided. (Turn counterclockwise, left-hand threads)
   NOTE: When using blades with a 5/8″ (15.88mm) diameter blade hole, the blade adapter will not be used and should be stored in a safe place for future use.

5. Return the guard bracket to its original position and firmly tighten the guard bracket screw to hold bracket in place.

WARNING:

• The guard bracket must be returned to its original position and the screw
  tightened before activating the saw.

• Failure to do so may allow the guard to contact the spinning saw blade resulting in damage to the saw and severe personal injury.

Installing Extension Kit
Side Table Extension (Some Models)
BE SURE TO OBSERVE ALL OF THE SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS IN YOUR MITER SAW INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
UNPLUG THE MITER SAW BEFORE INSTALLING, ADJUSTING OR REMOVING THE EXTENSION KIT. The extension kit can be used on either or both sides of the saw. The supplied extension kit is factory installed on the left side:

1. Install the self-tapping stud into the hole underneath the saw.
2. Install the extension tube making sure the clamping bracket will catch the legs.
3. Tighten the clamping bracket against the legs.

WARNING: Do not lift, support, or carry the miter saw by the extension kit. To do so may cause tipping and loss of control, leading to personal injury.
NOTE: Before transporting the saw, remove the extension or telescope it into the base.

Rear Lower Guard Adjustment
Check the rear lower guard to ensure that it is located such that the saw blade is in the center and equidistant from each side, as shown in Figures 6 and 7. Adjust as necessary by loosening the two screws and moving the guard. Firmly tighten both screws. Never remove this guard.

Transporting the Saw
TURN OFF AND UNPLUG THE MITER SAW BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO MOVE IT OR MAKE ANY ADJUSTMENTS WHATSOEVER!
In order to conveniently carry the miter saw from place to place, a carrying handle has been included on the top of the saw arm, as shown in Figure 3. To transport the saw, lower the arm and depress the lockdown pin shown in Figure 4.

**Adjustments

**

PERFORM ALL ADJUSTMENTS WITH THE MITER SAW UNPLUGGED
NOTE: Your miter saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the factory at the time of manufacture. If readjustment due to shipping and handling or any other reason is required, follow the steps below to adjust your saw.
Once made, these adjustments should remain accurate. Take a little time now to follow these directions carefully to maintain the accuracy of which your saw is capable.

MITER SCALE ADJUSTMENT
Place a square against the saw’s fence and blade, as shown in Figure 8. (Do not touch the tips of the blade teeth with the square. To do so will cause an inaccurate meas-urement.) Loosen the miter clamp knob (see Fig. 9) and swing the miter arm until the miter latch locks it at the 0 miter position. Do not tighten the clamp knob. If the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen the three screws that hold the miter scale to the base (shown in Fig. 9) and move the scale/miter arm assembly left or right until the blade is perpendicular to the fence, as measured with the square. Retighten the three screws. Pay no attention to the reading of the miter pointer at this point.

MITER POINTER ADJUSTMENT
Loosen the miter clamp knob and squeeze the miter latch to move the miter arm to the zero position, as shown in Figure 9. With the miter clamp knob loose allow the miter latch to snap into place as you rotate the miter arm past zero. Observe the pointer and miter scale through the viewing opening shown in Figure 10. If the pointer does not indicate exactly zero, gently pry it left or right using a flat-bladed screwdriver.

BEVEL SQUARE TO TABLE
To align the blade square to the rotary table, lock the arm in the down position. Place a square against the blade taking care to not have the square on top of a tooth, as shown in Figure 11. Loosen the Bevel Clamp Knob so that you can move the Bevel Arm. Move the Bevel Arm as necessary so that the blade is at zero degrees bevel to the table. If the Bevel Arm needs adjustment, loosen the lock nut on the right side Bevel Stop as shown in Figure 12, and adjust the stop screw as necessary. Hold the stop screw in place and tighten the lock nut.

BEVEL POINTER
If the bevel pointer does not indicate zero, loosen the screw that holds it in place and move the pointer as necessary. SUGGESTION: The bevel pointer is quite thick and for accuracy’s sake set the top edge so that it aligns with zero.

BEVEL STOP
To set the 45-degree bevel stop, first loosen the left side fence clamping knobs and slide the left side fence as far as it will go to the left. Move the arm to the left until it stops on the left bevel stop screw. If the bevel pointer does not indicate exactly 45 degrees, loosen the left side bevel stop lock nut and turn the screw downwards. Move the arm to the left and tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly when the bevel pointer indicates exactly 45 degrees. Adjust the left side bevel stop screw upwards until it firmly touches the bevel stop. Retighten the nut while holding the screw from turning.
To achieve 3-degree right bevel or 48 degree left bevel, the stop screws must be adjusted to allow the arm to move to the desired location. The bevel stops will need readjust-ment to the zero and 45-degree positions after cuts are made.

FENCE ADJUSTMENT
Turn Off and Unplug the Miter Saw
In order that the saw can bevel to a full 48 degrees left, the left side of the fence can be adjusted to the left to provide clearance. To adjust the fence, loosen the plastic knob shown in Figure 13 and slide the fence to the left. Make a dry run with the saw turned off and check for clearance. Adjust the fence to be as close to the blade as practical to provide maximum workpiece support, without interfering with arm up and down movement. Tighten the knob securely. When the bevel operations are complete, don’t forget to relocate the fence to the right.
NOTE: The guide groove, shown in Figure 14, of the left side fence can become clogged with sawdust. If you notice that it is becoming clogged, use a stick or some low pres-sure air to clear the guide groove.

GUARD ACTUATION AND VISIBILITY
The blade guard on your saw has been designed to auto-matically raise when the arm is brought down and to lower over the blade when the arm is raised.
The guard can be raised by hand when installing or removing saw blades or for inspection of the saw. NEVER RAISE

THE BLADE GUARD IS MANUALLY UNLESS THE SAW IS TURNED OFF.
NOTE: Certain special cuts will require that you manually raise the guard. See section on cutting base molding up to 3-7/8″ high (page 10).

The front section of the guard is louvered for visibility while cutting. Although the louvers dramatically reduce flying debris, they are openings in the guard and safety glasses should be worn at all times when viewing through the louvers.

AUTOMATIC ELECTRIC BRAKE (120 VOLT ONLY)
Your saw is equipped with an automatic electric blade brake which stops the saw blade within 5 seconds of trig-ger release. This is not adjustable.
On occasion, there may be a delay after trigger release to brake engagement. On rare occasions, the brake may not engage at all and the blade will coast to a stop.
If a delay or “skipping” occurs, turn the saw on and off 4 or 5 times. If the condition persists, have the tool serviced by an authorized DEWalt service center.
Always be sure the blade has stopped before removing it from the kerf. The brake is not a substitute for guards or for ensuring your own safety by giving the saw your complete attention.

Brushes

DISCONNECT PLUG FROM THE POWER SUPPLY
Inspect carbon brushes regularly by unplugging tool, removing the brush inspection cap (Figure 3) and with-drawing the brush assembly. Keep brushes clean and slid-ing freely in their guides. Always replace a used brush in the same orientation in the holder as it was prior to its removal. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped into their sides, and if the brush is worn down to the line closest to the spring, they must be replaced. Use only identical DEWALT brushes. Use of the correct grade of brush is essential for the proper operation of the electric brake. New brush assemblies are available at DEWALT service centers. The tool should be allowed to “run in” (run at no load) for 10 minutes before use to seat new brushes. The electric brake may be erratic in operation until the brushes are properly seated (worn in).
While “running in” DO NOT TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE LOCK THE TRIGGER SWITCH ON. HOLD BY HAND ONLY.

Operation

Plug the saw into any household 60 Hz power source. Refer to the nameplate for voltage. Be sure the cord will not interfere with your work.

SWITCH
To turn the saw on, depress the trigger switch as shown in Figure 15. To turn the tool off, release the switch. There is no provision for locking the switch on, but a hole is provided in the trigger for the insertion of a padlock to lock the saw off.

CUTTING WITH YOUR SAW
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-ferrous materials, we will limit our discussion to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials. DO NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND STEEL) MATERIALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not use any abrasive blades.
CROSSCUTS
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each piece is held firmly against the table and fence. A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the zero-degree position. Set the miter arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and firm-ly against the fence. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trig-ger switch as shown in Figure 15.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often 45 degrees for making corners but can be set anywhere from zero to 48 degrees left or right. After selecting the desired miter angle, be sure to tighten the miter clamp knob. Make the cut as described above.

BEVEL CUTS
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel clamp knob and move the saw to the left as desired.(It is necessary to move the left side of the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly. Bevel angles can be set from 3 degrees right to 48 degrees left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero and 48 degrees right or left.

QUALITY OF CUT
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like the material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60-tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results. Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished. For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and select the one that best fits your needs (page 3).

BODY AND HAND POSITION (FIG. 16)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer than 6″ from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISHING CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 16.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper bal-ance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.

CLAMPING THE WORKPIECE

Turn Off and Unplug Saw
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 6” from the blade, a clamp or other fixture should be used.
For best results us the DW7052 clamp made for use with your saw. It is available through your local retailer or DEWALT service center at extra cost.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make a dry run before making the cut. The left fence will slide from side to side to aid in clamping.

SUPPORT FOR LONG PIECES
Turn Off and Unplug Saw

ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES
For best results, use the DW7050 extension work support to extend the table width of your saw. Available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.

CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES, AND OTHER FOUR-SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure 17. Sketch A in Figure 17 shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45 degrees each to produce a 90-degree corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45 degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence.

CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Sketch B in Figure 17 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45 degrees to miter the two boards to form a 90-degree corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45 degrees. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 17 are for four side objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes.
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180 degrees divided by the number of sides equals the miter or bevel angle.

CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure 18.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob and the miter lock knob are secure-ly tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or miter.  The chart shown on page 12 will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for common compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle “A” (Figure 19) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct miter angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you devel-op a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it. Example: To make a 4-sided box with 26° exterior angles (Angle A, Figure 19), use the upper right arc. Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the miter angle setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify settings on saw.

DUAL RANGE MITER SCALE
The miter scale has two ranges of numbers for convenience, as shown in Figure 20. One scale indicates 0 degrees when the blade is square to the fence. At this position, the other scale reads 90 degrees.
The 0-degree scale (larger numbers closer to the front edge) is used when calculating angles. To calculate the proper miter angle, divide 180 degrees by the number of sides of the box or frame. Refer to the chart on page 9 for some examples.
The 90-degree scale (smaller numbers behind the zero-degree scale) is used when a corner of your box or frame is measured with a protractor. For example: if you measure the corner of an 8 sided box, the protractor will read 135 degrees. To determine the proper miter setting, divide the measured angle by two. The proper miter setting in this example is 67-1/2 degrees. Set this angle on the 90-degree scale. This is most useful when a corner is at an odd angle.

VERNIER SCALE (FIG. V1, V2)
Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added precision. The vernier scale allows you to accurately set miter angles to the nearest 1/4 degree (15 minutes). To use the vernier scale follow the steps listed below.
(As an example, let’s assume that the angle you want to miter is 24 1/4 degrees right).

1. Turn off miter saw.
2. Set the miter angle to the nearest whole degree desired by aligning the center mark in the vernier scale, shown in Figure V1, with the whole degree num-ber etched in the miter scale. Examine Figure V2 closely; the setting shown is 24 degrees right miter.
3. To set the additional 1/4 degree, squeeze the miter arm lock and carefully move the arm to the RIGHT until the 1/4 degree vernier mark aligns with the CLOSEST degree mark on the miter scale. In our example, the closest degree mark on the miter scale happens to be 25 degrees. Figure V2 shows a setting of 24-1/4 degrees right miter.

For settings that require partial degrees (1/4, 1/2, 3/4 degrees) align the desired vernier mark with the CLOS-EST degree mark on the miter scale, as described below (The plastic vernier plate is inscribed with marks for 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1 degrees. Only the 1/2 degree and the 1 degree are numerically labeled.)

WHEN MITERING TO THE RIGHT
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right. To decrease the miter angle when mitering to the right, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the left.

WHEN MITERING TO THE LEFT
To increase the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the clos-est mark on the miter scale to the left. To decrease the miter angle when mitering to the left, move the arm to align the appropriate vernier mark with the closest mark on the miter scale to the right.

CUTTING BASE MOLDING
ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS.
Straight 90-degree cuts : Position the wood against the fence and clamp it in place as shown in Figure 21. Turn on the saw, allow the blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.

CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 3-7/8″ HIGH VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE

• Position molding as shown in Figure 22
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence and bottom of the molding against the base

INSIDE CORNER:

• Left side
  1. Miter left 45°
  2. Save left side of cut
• Right side
  1. Miter Right 45°
  2. Save right side of cut

OUTSIDE CORNER:

• Left side
  1. Miter right at 45°
  2. Save left side of cut
• Right side
  1. Miter left at 45°
  2. Save right side of cut
     Material up to 3.9″ (3-7/8)” can be cut as described above.
     For wider boards [up to 5.5″ (5-1/2″)] several minor concessions must be made.

When cutting a board between 3.9″ (3-7/8″) and 5.5″ (5-1/2″) in width the roller on the tip of the guard will hang up on the workpiece. If this occurs, simply place your right thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece, as shown in Figure 25. Once you have cleared the workpiece, you can release the guard and it will continue to open as the cut progresses. When mitering to the right side of a base molding wider than 3.9″ (3-7/8″) standing vertically against the fence as in Figure 22, the saw can only cut through the board up to 1 inch from the end of the board. Trying to cut more than an inch will cause the saw’s gear case to interfere with the workpiece. If you want to cut base molding between 3-7/8″ and 5-1/2″ wide vertically follow the directions on this page.

CUTTING 3-7/8″– 5-1/2″ BASE MOLDING VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE

• Position molding as shown in Figure 22
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence

INSIDE CORNER: Left side

1. Position the molding with the bottom of the molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut

Right side

1. Position molding with top of the molding resting on the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save left side of cut

OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side

1. Position molding with the bottom of molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter right 45°

Save left side of cut
Note: If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1″ from the end of the molding: cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1″ longer than your final length then make the miter cut as described above.

Right side

1. Position molding with the bottom of the molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save the right side of cut

A THIRD METHOD OF MAKING THE CUT NECESSARY IS TO MAKE A ZERO-DEGREE MITER, 45-DEGREE BEVEL CUT. YOUR SAW CAN CUT A BEVEL 7-7/8″ WIDE.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING LAYING FLAT AND USING THE BEVEL FEATURE

• All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
• All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw as shown in figures 23 and 24.

INSIDE CORNER: Left side

1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
2. Save left side of cut

Right side

1. Position molding with the bottom of the molding against the fence
2. Save left side of cut

OUTSIDE CORNER: Left side

1. Position molding with the bottom of the molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut

Right side

1. Position molding with top of molding against the fence
2. Save right side of cut

CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made. In order to fit prop-erly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90 degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52 degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38 degrees.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at 31.62 degrees left and right for cutting crown molding at the proper angle. There is also a mark on the Bevel scale at 33.85 degrees.

The chart on this page gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding. (The numbers for the miter and bevel set-tings are very precise and are not easy to accurately set on your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90 degrees, you will have to fine-tune your settings anyway.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING LAYING FLAT AND USING THE COMPOUND FEATURES

1. Molding laying with broad back surface down flat on saw table (Fig. 26).
2. The settings below are for All Standard (U.S.) crown molding with 52° and 38° angles.

When setting bevel and miter angles for all compound miters, remember that:
The angles presented for crown moldings are very precise and difficult to set exactly. Since they can easily shift slightly and very few rooms have exact-ly square corners, all settings should be tested on scrap molding.

PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
ALTERNATIVE METHOD FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
Place the molding on the table at an angle between the fence and the saw table, as shown in Figure 26A. Use of the crown molding fence accessory (DW7054) is highly recommended because of its degree of accuracy and convenience. The crown molding fence accessory is available at extra cost from your local dealer.
The advantage to cutting crown molding using this method is that no bevel cut is required. Minute changes in the miter angle can be made without affecting the bevel angle. This way, when corners other than 90 degrees are encountered, the saw can be quickly and easily adjusted for them. Use the crown molding fence accessory to maintain the angle at which the molding will be on the wall.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING CROWN MOLDING ANGLED BETWEEN THE FENCE AND BASE OF THE SAW FOR ALL CUTS

1. Angle the molding so the bottom of the molding (part which goes against the wall when installed) is against the fence and the top of the molding is resting on the base of the saw, as shown in Figure 26A.
2. The angled “flats” on the back of the molding must rest squarely on the fence and base of the saw.

INSIDE CORNER: Left side

1. Miter right at 45°
2. Save the right side of cut

Right side

1. Miter left at 45°
2. Save left side of cut

OUTSIDE CORNER: mLeft side

1. Miter left at 45°
2. Save right side of cut

Right side

1. Miter right at 45°
2. Save left side of cut

Special Cuts

NEVER MAKE ANY CUT UNLESS THE MATERIAL IS SECURED ON THE TABLE AND AGAINST THE FENCE.

Aluminum Cutting:
Certain workpieces, due to their size, shape or surface finish, may require the use of a clamp or fixture to prevent movement during the cut. Position the material so that you will be cutting the thinnest cross-section, as shown in Figure 27. Figure 28 illustrates the wrong way to cut these extrusions. Use a stick wax lubricant when cutting aluminum. Apply the stick wax directly to the saw blade before cutting. Never apply stick wax to a moving blade. The wax, available at most hardware stores and industrial mill supply houses, provides proper lubrication and keeps chips from adhering to the blade.
Be sure to properly secure the workpiece. Refer to page 3 for correct saw blade,

Bowed Material:
When cutting bowed material always position it as shown in Figure 29 and never like that shown in Figure 30. Positioning the material incorrectly will cause it to pinch the blade near the completion of the cut.
Cutting Plastic Pipe or Other Round Material
Plastic pipe can be easily cut with your saw. It should be cut just like wood and CLAMPED OR HELD FIRMLY TO THE FENCE TO KEEP IT FROM ROLLING. This is extremely important when making angle cuts.

Cutting Large Material
Occasionally you will encounter a piece of wood a little too large to fit beneath the blade guard. A little extra height can be gained by rolling the guard up out of the way, as shown in Figure 25. Avoid doing this as much as possible, but if need be, the saw will operate properly and make the big-ger cut. NEVER TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE HOLD THE GUARD OPEN WHEN OPERATING THIS SAW.

Maintenance

1. All bearings are sealed. They are lubricated for life and need no further maintenance.
2. Periodically clean all dust and wood chips from around AND UNDER the base and the rotary table. Even though slots are provided to allow debris to pass through, some dust will accumulate.
3. The brushes are designed to give you several years of use. If they ever need replacement follow the instruc-tions on page 7 or return the tool to the nearest serv-ice center for repair. Service center locations are packed with your tool.

Repairs
To assure product SAFETY and RELIABILITY, repairs, maintenance and adjustment (including brush inspection and replacement) should be performed by authorized service centers or other qualified service organizations, always using identical replacement parts.

‘Three-Year Limited Warranty
DEWALT will repair, without charge, any defects due to faulty materials or workmanship for three years from the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover part failure due to normal wear or tool abuse. For further detail of warranty coverage and warranty repair information, visit www.dewalt.com or call 1-800-4-DEWALT (1-800-433-9258). This warranty does not apply to accessories or damage caused where repairs have been made or attempted by others. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights which vary in certain states or provinces.
In addition to the warranty, DEWALT tools are covered by our:

1 YEAR OF FREE SERVICE
DEWALT will maintain the tool and replace worn parts caused by normal use, for free, any time during the first year after purchase.

90-DAY MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE
If you are not completely satisfied with the performance of your DEWALT Power Tool, Laser, or Nailer for any reason, you can return it within 90 days from the date of purchase with a receipt for a full refund – no questions asked.

RECONDITIONED PRODUCT: Reconditioned product is covered under the 1 Year Free Service Warranty. The 90 Day Money Back Guarantee and the Three Year Limited Warranty do not apply to the reconditioned product.

FREE WARNING LABEL REPLACEMENT:
If your warning labels become illegible or are missing, call 1-800-4-DEWALT for a free replacement.

Troubleshooting Guide

BE SURE TO FOLLOW SAFETY RULES AND INSTRUCTIONS
TROUBLE! SAW WILL NOT START

WHAT’S WRONG?

1. Saw not plugged in
2. Fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped
3. Cord damaged
4. Brushes are worn out

TROUBLE! SAW MAKES UNSATISFACTORY CUTS WHAT’S WRONG?

1. Dull blade
2. Blade mounted backward
3. Gum or pitch on the blade
4. Incorrect blade for work being done

TROUBLE! BLADE DOES NOT COME UP TO SPEED WHAT’S WRONG?

1. Extension cord too light or too long
2. Low house current

TROUBLE! THE MACHINE VIBRATES EXCESSIVELY WHAT’S WRONG?

1. Saw not mounted securely to stand or workbench
2. Stand or bench on an uneven floor
3. Damaged saw blade

TROUBLE! DOES NOT MAKE ACCURATE MITER CUTS WHAT’S WRONG?

1. The miter scale not adjusted correctly
2. The blade is not square to fence
3. Blade is not perpendicular to table
4.  Workpiece moving

TROUBLE! MATERIAL PINCHES BLADE WHAT’S WRONG?

1. Cutting bowed material

WHAT TO DO…

1. Plug in saw.
2. Replace fuse or reset the circuit breaker
3. Have cord replaced by an authorized service center
4. Have brushes replaced by an authorized service center or replace them yourself as instructed on page 7.

WHAT TO DO…

1. Replace blade. See page 4 .
2. Turn the blade around. See page 4.
3. Remove the blade and clean with turpentine and coarse steel wool or household oven cleaner.
4. Change the blade type. See page 3.

WHAT TO DO…

1. Replace with adequate size cord. See page 1.
2. Contact your electric company

WHAT TO DO…

1. Tighten all mounting hardware. See page 4.
2. Reposition on a flat-level surface. See page 4.
3. Replace blade. See page 4 .

WHAT TO DO…

1. Check and adjust. See page 5.
2. Check and adjust. See page 6.
3. Check and adjust fence. See page 6.
4. Clamp the workpiece to a fence or glue 120-grit sandpaper to the fence with rubber cement.

WHAT TO DO…

1. Position bowed material as shown on page 12.

DEWALT Industrial Tool Co., 701 East Joppa Road, Baltimore, MD 21286 (FEB05) Form No. 630227-00 DW705
Copyright © 2001, 2002, 2005 DEWALT
The following are trademarks for one or more DEWALT power tools: the yellow and black color scheme; the “D” shaped air intake grill; the array of pyramids on the handgrip; the kit box configuration; and the array of lozenge-shaped humps on the surface of the tool.

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