VANGUARD MODELS KR-62142 Jolly Boat User Manual

: June 9, 2024
: VANGUARD MODELS

Table of Contents

Recommended tools
- Recommended Paints etc
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
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VANGUARD MODELS KR-62142 Jolly Boat

Recommended tools

Sharp knife such as a scalpel, X-acto or Stanley.
Sanding sticks or abrasive papers (110 – 320 grade)
Steel rule
Needle/jeweller’s files
Small clamps
Small tweezers
Masking tape (Tesa, Tamiya etc.)
Fine paintbrushes
Titebond I/II wood glue
Gorilla Glue CA gel

Recommended Paints etc

Plastikote matt white spray
Plastikote matt black spray
Vallejo black and brown acrylics
Mr Metal Color aluminum paint
Ronseal Matt Polyurethane varnish

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Cut all parts from the 2mm MDF sheet and sit (NOT GLUE) bulkheads Y3 – Y9 into their corresponding slots on the base.
All bulkheads are numbered. Each one should now be dry-fitted into the base as shown here.

Cut YlO from the 0.6mm pear sheet and also sit this into the base as shown here. Do NOT glue anything yet.
Sit bulkheads Yl and Y2 on the 1mm pear wood keel, Y12. Do NOT Glue.
Cut parts Y13 (x2) from the 1mm pear wood sheet and bevel the forward edges as shown here.
Sit parts Y13 into position as shown here. Note that these parts sit in slots on Yl and Y2. Glue Y13 to the keel but not to the bulkheads. The upper edges will align with the keel
Sit the keel, Y12, into the slots in the boat’s bulkheads.

With this in place, you can brush some white glue into th e joints. Leave to thoroughly dry.
Cut the stern board Y 11 from the 1mm pear wood sheet.

Glue into position on the keel, as shown.
This photo clearly shows the stern board in position. Note that it must be fitted flush and at an angle with the rear of the keel.
Cut both parts Y14 from the 1mm pear wood sheet and bevel the outer cu rved edge as shown here. This bevel is only a rough guide as it will be bevelled more soon.
Glue the parts Y14 to the keel, between Y1O & Y11. To help with alignment, the upper straight edge is flush with the same area of the keel.
Sand/fair the hull using sandpaper or a sanding stick. Take a plan k to make sure it lies smoothly across all shaped/bevelled bulkheads.
The first planks can first be soaked if you wish, but make sure you allow them to thoroughly dry before fitting to hull.
Glue the first plank to the hull as shown here, noting that it lies against the step on each bulkhead. We suggest using wood glue and not CA.
Here you can see how a plank is supposed to li e over t he sanded/faired hull bulkheads. Aim for as much contact as you can between t he plank and bulkheads.
Planking now proceeds from the first plank, upwards towards the keel.
At the point you see in the photo, the remainder of the planks were then fitted from the keel, down to the previous planks. You will need to taper your planking to make them sit against the bulkheads. The pencil marks you see are where I tapered them from, towards t he bow/stern.
You may need to fit ‘ in fil planks’ or ‘stealers’ as you progress. We aim to make such fillers as low as possible so the paint will cover them. You may of course wish to use the tick-strip method to plank, whichever suits you.
Here’s another view of the planked hull. Again, you can see the various taper marks and stealers that I fitted.
To help in sanding the hull, the protruding parts of the MDF bulkheads are cut away with a sharp knife .
Sand the hull with around a 120 grade paper to begin with, using gradually finer grades to smooth the wood surface. Use an acrylic thinner, slightly diluted, to fill any hollows or imperfections.
Carefully remove the boat hull from the base. The base can now be discarded.
To remove the MDF bulkheads, first snip away the small bridge on each part.
Now use pliers to carefully twist away the inner sides of the bulkhead.

Remember, you will leave the section of MDF in the floor of your boat.
Don’t remove the pear wood bulkhead near the stem.
When the bulkheads are removed, gently sand the internal walls and remove any glue deposits.

From the 0.6mm pear wood sheet, remove the rib strips, Y28. Glue short lengths inside the hull at around 5mm to 6mm spacing, as seen here.
On the forward ribs, use a pencil to add a mark 3mm down from the top of the bulwark. Cut the seat support strips Y29 from the 0.6mm pear wood sheet. Add a st rip to both internal sides of the hull, as shown.
OPTIONAL: To create a wood finish to the PE floor sections, you can first apply a coat of Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow.
On top of the paint, you can now apply a very thin coat of Raw Sienna oil paint, using a piece of foam.
Spots of Raw Umber oil paint can now be randomly applied to the previous oil paint covering.
Using your foam sponge, drag the dark oil paint spots into the lighter layer below. Keep doing this until you achieve the desired result.
You can make your wood effect as subtle or coarse as you wish.

A fan brush could also be used to create knot effects and a more natural flow to the grain.
Once you have painted your photo-etch floor sections, set them aside and allow to t hroughly dry. If you used the oil paint technique, you should leave the parts between 24 and 48hrs.
Use CA (superglue) to fit the floor sections into position inside the hul l. Also fit Y22 into position as shown.
Glue parts Y16 and Y21, from the 1mm pear wood sheet, into position. You will need to bevel the underside edges to get a good fit.
Fit the seating Yl7, Y18, Y19, and Y20 from the 1mm pear wood sheet, and then add the knees (Y26) from the 0.6mm pear wood sheet.
Glue the gunwale sides Y23, from the 0.6mm pear wood sheet, and when in position, add the stern gunwale.
The gunwales should overlap the outside edge by 0.5 to 1mm.
Glue the fore and aft boards, Y24 and Y25, into position over the engraved position markers on the gunwales.
Use CA to glue the rudder sides to the rudder (YlS) from the 0.6mm pear wood sheet. Mask the tiller and paint the rudder in white.
Paint the underside of the hull in white. Before fitting the wales (from the planking sheet), paint them black. When fully dry, fit the wales to the hull. These will fit directly over the plank below the top bulwark plank. Trim the wales at the stern, so they are flush.
Glue the photo-etch oarlocks into place using CA. You may opt to paint these black beforehand.
Glue the anchor parts together as shown, using CA. You can either paint these black or use a blackening solution to colour them.
You are given the choice of using either photo-etch or wooden oars. If you use the wooden ones, sand the paddle to shape and slightly round the handle. To paint, we chose white for the handle with a varnished paddle . The paddle tip is painted in copper.
CA is probably better for this task.

Complete!

We suggest you glue the oars into position as shown. You may already have chosen to leave the rudder as stowed in the rear of the boat. Paint the boat hooks in brown for the handles and with a metal tip. Stow the anchor in your chosen position.