VANGUARD MODELS KR-62141 18 Inch Cutter Boat Instruction Manual

VANGUARD MODELS KR-62141 18 Inch Cutter Boat Instruction Manual

Recommended tools

1. Sharp knife such as a scalpel, X-acto or Stanley.
2. Sanding sticks or abrasive papers (110 – 320 grade)
3. Steel rule
4. Needle/jeweller’s files
5. Small clamps
6. Small tweezers
7. Masking tape (Tesa, Tamiya etc.)
8. Fine paintbrushes
9. Titebond I/II wood glue
10. Gorilla Glue CA gel

Recommended Paints etc.

1. Plastikote matt white spray
2. Plastikote matt black spray
3. Vallejo black and brown acrylics
4. Mr Metal Colour aluminium paint
5. Ronseal Matt Polyurethane varnish

Assembly Instruction

1. All bulkheads are numbered. Slot these (no glue) into their corresponding position in the base.
   

2. Slot (no glue) the 1mm pear wood bulkhead (C14) into the base.
   

3. Remove the keel (C10) from the 1mm pear wood sheet.
   

4. Slot the keel (C10) into the bulkheads. You may need to joggle the keel around to it fits into all slots. When in position , brush glue around the joints and set aside. Next , remove the stern bulkhead, C15 , from the 1mm pear wood glue into position as shown.
   

5. Remove C11 (x2) from the 2mm MDF sheet and bevels as shown here.

6. 

7. Sand/fair the hull using sandpaper or sanding sticks. this should be done so that a plank will lay across the bevelled bulkeads with as much contact as possible.
   

8. Add  the first planks that it sits across the shoulder of each bulkhead, and also to the bow and stern .We suggest you use wood glue for this instead for this instead of superglue(CA).
   

9. Add each subsequent plank, moving towards the keel. You will need to taper them to make them fit properly. You will find that you need to switch to planking down from the keel at some point.
   

10. When planked, your hull should look like this. You may need to use infil planks or ‘stealers’ where gaps exist. As these will be under a painted surface, it  doesn’t matte’ The pencil marks are where I tapered each plank.
    

11. Use a sharp knife to remove the protruding steps on the jig. This will make it easier to sand the hull sides smooth.
    

12. Use varying grades of sandpaper to smooth the hull. We start at around 110 grade and for the final finish, we use 320 grade.
    

13. Remember not to sand away too much wood as the planks are only 0.6mm thick.
    

14. If you need to use any filler, we recommend a good quality acrylic filler that you can slightly dilute and apply with a brush to any gaps.
    

15. Remove the hull from the base. The base can now be discarded.
    

16. We suggest that to remove the MDF bulkheads, that ,a you first cut away the small bridge on each one, V and then…
    

17. use some pliers to carefully twist the MDF away from the sides. Leave the bit in the bottom of hull.
    

18. Use a razor saw or similar to remove the waste portion of the pear wood bulkhead, CIA.
    

19. Once all the MDF has been removed from the sides, use sandpaper to further clean up and smooth the sides as much as you can. Cut the rib strips from the 0.6mm pear wood sheet and glue into place in the hull sides, shown. Place these around 5mm apart.
    

20. Cut the seat support strips, C25, from the 0.6mm pear wood sheet and glue into position as shown. This strip should be approximately 3mm down from  the top edge of the bulwark.
    

21. OPTIONAL: To create a wood finish to the PE floor sections, you can first apply a coat of Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow.
    
    On top of the paint, you can now apply a very thin coat of Raw Sienna oil paint, using a piece of foam.
    
    Spots of Raw Umber oil paint can now be randomly appl oil paint covering. S to the previous
    
    Using your foam sponge, drag the dark oil paint spots into the lighter layer below. Keep doing this until , you achieve the desired result.
    
    You can make your wood effect as subtle or coarse as you wish.
    
    A fan brush could also be used to create knot effects and a more natural flow to the grain.
    

22. Once you have painted your photo-etch floor parts, set aside to dry thoroughly. If you used the oil paint method, you should ideally leave these between 24hrs and 48hrs.
    

23. Use superglue (CA) to glue the floor sections into positiion.
    

24. Glue parts C16, C17, C18, C19 and C21 (x2) into position as shown.
    

25. Paint the lower hull white and paint a couple of spare planks in black. Add the planks to the sides as shown, to create the wales. Also bend and glue the mast bracket from the photo-etch sheet.
    

26. Cut the rudder C22 from the 0.6mm pear wood sheet, and also the rudder facings from the photo-etch sheet.
    

27. W suggest you use CA gel to glue the facings to the rudder as this will allow you time to properly position the parts before the glue sets.
    

28. Glue the rudder into position and also cut the rowlock positions into the upper plank.
    

29. Glue the anchor parts together as shown, using CA. You can either paint these black or use a blackening solution to colour them.
    

30. You are given the choice of using either photo-etch or wooden oars. If you use the wooden ones, sand the paddle to shape and slightly round the handle. To paint, we chose white for the handle with a varnished paddle. The paddle tip is painted in copper.
    

31. Fit the oars as shown, plus the anchor and the boat hooks. The boat hooks are painted in a wooden colour, and with a metallic hook.
    

32. 

All text and images Copyright ©2021 Vanguard Models
Prototype Model built by James Hatch. Actual product may vary slightly.

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