nootka saunas 8FT Barrel Sauna Instruction Manual

: June 28, 2024
: Nootka Saunas

Table of Contents

8FT Barrel Sauna
tools required
flat flooring
backrest
if wood-burning stove
wood burning stove
wood burning stove
smoke clearance
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barrel sauna
assembly instructions manual

8FT Barrel Sauna

parts list 1

parts list 2

parts list 3

tools required

2 people recommended for assembly

additional 2ft required to the rear of the sauna for wood-burning stove
leave a shoulder width boarder around the sauna for access and clearance

site prep

step zero

The sauna must be installed on a flat , level surface.
Ideal foundation options include concrete, gravel, or decking. If installing on grass or organics, use pavers or flagstones under the sauna cradles to prevent differential settling over time.
A flat , level site is essential to maintain the sauna structure, function, and aesthetic over the long-term.

step one
base cradles

Place the three cradles (A) in parallel on your site. For 8ft saunas, cradles should be 3ft apart. For 10ft saunas, cradles should be 4ft apart.
Place the center bottom stave (B) perpendicularly across the three cradles, with the grooved side facing up. The stave should overhang the front and back cradles approximately 8”.
Fasten the center bottom stave (B) with two 2 ½” screws (D), inserting the screws at a diagonal on the beaded portion of the stave (so that they are hidden by subsequent staves and not visible from inside the sauna).

base staves
step two
Begin placing and securing left-side staves (C.A) and right-side staves (C.B), one at a time.
Before fastening each stave, use a rubber mallet to ensure a tight fit along its entire length and a flush front edge. Use the 2 ½” screws (D) for fastening, as shown below.
Place and fasten enough left and right-side staves to cover the curved section of the cradles.
NOTE: Each stave comes with naturally unique knot placements. Consider reviewing the boards and reserving the ones you find most beautiful for the frequently seen areas (e.g. around eye level on the interior, and below the metal roof on the exterior).

*rest stave across the top to ensure the correct spacing between walls
front and rear walls
step three
Place the front door panel (H) and the rear centre wall panel (I) into the grooves created by the previous step’s staves. Use a level to ensure the front and back wall panels are level and plumb.
Rest a stave across the top to ensure correct spacing between the walls and to hold the walls in place during the next step.
NOTE: Leaning/propping a spare stave or two from the ground to the top of each wall will provide additional support and limit wall movement during the next steps.

secure one (D) screw at a 45 o from the top of each of the four 2×4 cross beams along the front wall.
*both front and rear walls are screw supported the same way. Repeat steps on front wall.

front and rear walls continued
step four
Add the side panels (J, J.A, K, K.A) to the front and rear walls, one at a time. Start by confirming each side panel’s correct placement and orientation (reference step four diagram and parts list 1 to verify) .
Ensure a good connection / tight fit between each side and center panel. Fasten the top of each side panel to its center panel using a GRK screw (G), and the bottom of each side panel using a 2 ½” screw (E). Be careful not to over-drive the screws deep into the wood.
Then, fasten the interior cross beams from the side panels onto the center panels using 2 ½” screws (D).
With the walls fully assembled, confirm that they are still level and plumb. Adjust/rotate the walls if needed. Once aligned, secure the walls to the outermost cradled stave using a 2 ½” screw (D) from below.

step five
Continue placing and securing staves (C.A, C.B).
Before fastening each stave, use the rubber mallet to ensure a flush front edge and a tight fit along the length of the stave.
Use 2 ½” screws (D) to fasten each stave to the front and back walls. The screws should be inserted at an angle along the staves’ rounded edge as shown below.
Stop placing staves once the staves pass the height of the bench supports.
NOTE : Using the rubber mallet to ensure a tight fit between staves before inserting each screw is recommended. Minor bowing of staves can be addressed using this technique. staves continued

*for saunas without a window on the rear wall panel: a spare wood brace labelled ‘this side facing out’ is provided to be mounted on the exterior with three (D) screws roughly 6’ (feet) high and centered.

interior benches
step six
To install the bench, mount the five 2”x4” interior bench slats (P) on either side of the door.
Use 2 1/2” screws to fasten them into the supports that are on the front and back wall.
Leave a 2” gap between the sauna wall and the first bench slat. Leave a 1/8” gap between each slat.
Place the bench support leg (Q) under the middle of each interior bench. Fasten from under the bench support up into each slat while applying downward pressure to the top of the slats.
Then fasten the support leg into the sauna floor.
Do this from the back or side of the support so the screws are hidden from view.
the bench leg is installed below the horizontal bench support for instructions on wood-burning stove installation please see the back of manual
electric heater
step seven

To mount your stove (T), fasten the two Wallmount brackets (T.B) to the back wall of the sauna. The stove will slot into these.
To determine the exact positioning for the brackets (T.A), position the stove (T) such that the circular punch out on the bottom rear of the stove lines up with the upper hole on the back wall of the sauna. Use a level in the basket of the stove to ensure the stove is level before marking the bracket positioning with a pencil.
Fasten the brackets to the back wall using the provided screws, and then simply slot the stove’s mounting arms into the brackets (no further fastening of the stove is needed).
Note: due to slight variations in the stoves and saunas, we recommend following the above method for positioning the brackets; however, they are generally screwed into the back wall approx. 23 ¾” above the floor and 10 3/8 ” apart. The heater guard (T.B) will arrive in 4 pieces for transport. Assemble it using 1 ½” screws (E).
Fasten the heater guard to the back wall using 2 ½” screws (D).
*metal brackets are screwed into the back wall 10 3/8 ” apart and 23 3/4 ” above the floor

IMPORTANT: A licensed electrician must complete all electrical wiring of the heater and sauna. Wiring by a non-certified person voids your heater’s warranty.

exterior benches
step eight
To assemble the exterior benches, fasten one bench support leg (Q) to each exterior bench seat (R) using 2 ½” screws (D), leaving a 1/8” overhang on the front and inside edge (for comfort when sitting).
Position the benches on either side of the door, confirming they are level. Fasten each bench’s horizontal support onto the sauna wall with 2 ½” screws (D). Fasten the legs (Q) into the sauna floor and wall using 2 ½” screws inserted at a 45-degree angle (choose discrete insertion points such as behind the leg and under the bench).

*the bench leg is installed below the horizontal bench support

staves continued
step nine

Continue placing and securing staves using the same method as step 5, until you are left with the final gap at the top. Do not screw down the last two staves.

The final gap must be filled with a custom double-grooved stave. To make the custom double-grooved stave, use one of the remaining/unused left-side staves, and one of the remaining/unused right-side staves.
Measure the width of the final gap at the front and the back of the sauna (note: is important to measure both as they may be slightly different).
Using a circular saw, cut one of the staves in a straight line, so that its width becomes half (or less) of the measured gap size. Cut the second stave at an angle to accommodate the remaining gap.

bracing bands
step ten
Attach the three metal bands (N) around your sauna as shown below.
The front and back bands are positioned about 2” from the edges and the third is positioned in the middle.
Thread each end of the band through the buckle (O) then into the metal band clamps (M) then back through the buckle. Do this on both sides of the band. Tighten the buckle with an allen key and the banding clamp using an adjustable wrench.

step eleven
metal roof
Hold the front flashing (S.E) in position on the sauna and draw a line at the bottom of the flashing to mark where the bottom of the roofing panels should start.
Starting 2” above that mark, secure the plywood strapping (S.B) at evenly spaced intervals using the 1 1/2 ” screws (E).
Next , mount the first roofing panel (S.D), lining up the bottom of the panel with the mark made at the start of step 11. Secure each panel along the top edge using 1 1/2 ” screws.
Mount the next panel (S.D) by hooking the bottom of the new panel into the top of the previous panel (creating an overlap and covering the screws). metal roof continued
step twelve

After mounting five roof panels on both sides you will be left with a gap at the top that will be covered by the ridge cap (S.C). The ridge cap will have a positive overlap on the lower roof panels to ensure water runs off the barrel.
Fasten the ridge cap with the colour matched gasket screws (F).
Install flashing and keystone (S.E) on front and back of the sauna. Use gasket screws (F). The keystone should cover any gap or overlap where the flashing meets.

flat flooring

Measure the porch section and cut the flat flooring (X) to fit. Use 2 ¹/² ” (D) screws through the parallel runners to fasten to the flooring into the base of the barrel.
Note : Flat flooring must not sit under the wood burning stove.

backrest

The backrest should be mounted about 12” above the bench. This can be adjusted based on preferred height. Fasten the loose support pieces onto the staves using 2 1/2 ” (D) screws. Then slot the backrest on the supports. This is a french cleat system; the backrests do not need to be further secured.

if wood-burning stove

Place your metal floor heat shield (W) tight against the wall of the sauna. Open the chimney exit port on the back of the wood stove (V). Do this by removing the screws and bending the circular metal flap down to expose the hole.
Place your wood burning stove (V) on the metal flooring (W). Ensure that the stove is centered between the two benches.
Inside the firebox of the wood stove, there is a silver 4” chimney pipe. This will be the first piece to connect to the back of the stove. One end of this pipe has a flange that locks into place in the stove.
Follow the diagram for order of the pipe connections to the back of the stove. Once they are mounted press the stove and the whole assembly against the rear wall.

wood burning stove

Ensure the chimney is level coming out of the back of the heater. Trace the circumference of the chimney onto the rear wall with a pencil.
Line up the wall pass-thru thimble with the traced circle on the back wall. Mark your edges and cut out the square hole to allow the thimble to stick through the back wall. Ensure you are cutting the smaller diameter square so that you still have sufficient wood to fasten the thimble to the wall (approx. 12”x12”).
Use the skill saw to make the cuts (cut the bottom and sides first to make sure the blade doesn’t get pinched).
Use the jig saw to finish cutting the corners (cut the bottom and sides first to make sure the blade doesn’t get pinched).

wood burning stove

After the interior stove and chimney installed and sticking out from the outside hole. See diagram for order of operation.
IMPORTANT : All chimney pipes have directional arrows on them. These should be pointing in the direction this smoke is to go.
All finished pipes inside the sauna will be black and all metal on the exterior of the sauna will be silver.
The chimney kit comes with a small selftapping screws to fasten each stove pipe to the subsequent one.