CALIMAR CMARSHA Series Salt Chlorination System Instruction Manual
- June 6, 2024
- CALIMAR
Table of Contents
MARSHA SERIES SALT CHLORINATION SYSTEM
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION MANUAL
READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Thank you for your purchase of a CaliMar® CMARSHA Salt System. Our salt
systems are designed to meet or exceed specifications, for optimal performance
and reliability.
CaliMar® Part Number | Pool Volume in Gallons |
---|---|
CMARSHA15 | 15,000 |
CMARSHA25 | 25,000 |
CMARSHA40 | 40,000 |
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using electrical equipment, basic safety precautions should always be
exercised, including the following:
READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS
- Disconnect all AC power during installation.
- Do not permit children to use this product.
- A green-colored screw is located inside the wiring compartment, against the back panel. To reduce the risk of electric shock, this terminal must be connected to the grounding means provided in the electric supply service panel with a continuous copper wire equivalent in size to the circuit conductors supplying the equipment.
- One bonding lug for US models (two for Canadian models) is provided on the external surface. To reduce the risk of electric shock, connect the local common bonding grid in the area of the swimming pool, spa, or hot tub to these terminals with an insulated or bare copper conductor not smaller than 8 AWG US/6 AWG Canada.
- All field-installed metal components such as rails, ladders, drains, or other similar hardware located within 10 feet (3 meters) of the pool, spa, or hot tub shall be bonded to the equipment grounding bus with copper conductors not smaller than 8 AWG US/ 6 AWG Canada.
OPERATION
The CMARSHA is an automatic chlorine generation system for pool & spa
sanitation. The operation requires a low concentration of salt (sodium
chloride) in the pool water at levels low enough that it normally cannot be
tasted. The CMARSHA system automatically sanitizes your pool by converting the
salt into free chlorine, which kills bacteria and algae in the pool through a
process called electrolysis.
CMARSHA is designed to handle the purification needs of the average
residential swimming pool. The actual amount of chlorination required to
properly sanitize a pool varies depending upon bather load, rainfall, air
temperature, pool water temperature, pool exposure to sunlight, pool surface,
and cleanliness.
Note: It is not recommended to use the CMARSHA system to generate Bromine.
If your pool has natural stone as coping or decking, please check with a stone
installation specialist for the maintenance of the stone before installing the
SPS.
WATER CHEMISTRY
As with any pool, it is important that you maintain the proper water chemistry of the pool water, including pH, alkaline content, and calcium levels. The only special requirement for CMARSHA is to maintain proper levels of salt and stabilizer. It is important to maintain these levels in order to prevent corrosion or scaling and to ensure maximum enjoyment of the pool. Test your water periodically. It is recommended that the pool water be professionally tested a minimum of twice per season. Your local pool store can provide you with the chemicals and procedures to adjust the water chemistry. Be sure to tell the pool store that you are using a salt-chlorine generator.
IDEAL CHEMICAL LEVELS
Salt | 3200 to 4000 ppm |
---|---|
Free chlorine | 1.0 to 3.0 ppm |
pH | 7.2 to 7.6 |
Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer) | 50 to 100 ppm |
Total Alkalinity | 80 to 120 ppm |
Calcium Hardness | 200 to 400 ppm |
Metals | 0 ppm |
Saturation Index | -.2 to .2 |
SATURATION INDEX
The saturation index (Si) relates to the calcium and alkalinity in the water
and is an indicator of the pool water “balance”. Your water is properly
balanced if the Si is 0 ±.2. If the Si is below -0.2, the water is corrosive
and plaster pool walls will be dissolved into the water. If the Si is above
+0.2, scaling and staining will occur. Use the chart below to determine the
saturation index.
Si = pH + Ti +Ci +Ai – 12.1
How to use: Measure pool pH, temperature, calcium hardness, and total alkalinity. Use the chart above to determine Ti, Ci, and Ai from your measurements. Insert values of pH, Ti, Ci, and Ai into the above equation. If Si equals .2 or more, scaling and staining may occur. If Si equals -.2 or less corrosion or irritation may occur.
SALT LEVEL
Use the chart below to determine the amount of salt that needs to be added to
reach the recommended levels. Use the equations below to determine the size of
your pool.
| Gallons (pool size feet)| Liters (pool size in meters)
---|---|---
Rectangular| Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5| Length x Width x Average
Depth x 1000
Round| Diameter x Diameter x Average Depth x 5.9| Diameter x Diameter x
Average Depth x 785
Oval| Length x Width x Average Depth x 6.7| Length x Width x Average Depth x
893
-
The ideal salt level is between 3200-4000 ppm (parts per million) with 3600 ppm being the optimal level.
Calculate the number of gallons in the pool and add salt according to the chart on page 3. -
A LOW salt level will reduce the efficiency of the CMARSHA and result in low chlorine production.
-
Excessively HIGH salt levels will cause the CMARSHA to shut down, making pool water unsafe for bathers.
LOW salt levels can cause the CMARSHA not to operate efficiently, causing the same
Type of Salt to Use
It is important to use only sodium chloride (NaCl) that is 99% pure. This is
common food quality or water softener salt available in 40-80 lb/bag at your
local store. It is also acceptable to use water conditioning salt pellets;
however, it will take longer for them to dissolve. Do not use rock salt, salt
with more than 1% yellow prussiate of soda, salt with more than 1% of anti-
caking additives, or iodized salt.
How to Add or Remove Salt
- IN-GROUND POOLS: Turn the filter pump on and add the salt directly into the pool at the shallow end.
- ABOVE GROUND POOLS WITH MAIN DRAINS: Add directly in front of the return jet to the pool. Run the filter pump for 24 hours with the suction coming from the main drain (use the pool vacuum if there is no main drain) to allow the salt to evenly disperse throughout the pool.
- ABOVE GROUND POOLS WITHOUT MAIN DRAINS: Add directly into the pool. Brush the salt to speed up the dissolving process. Do does not allow the salt to sit in a pile on the bottom of the pool.
ON ANY POOL, DO NOT ADD SALT DIRECTLY TO THE SKIMMERS OR DIRECTLY ONTO THE
MAIN DRAIN. THIS WILL SHUT DOWN OR SHORTEN THE LIFE OF THE CELL DUE TO HIGH
SALT CONCENTRATION AND REDUCED FLOW TO THE PUMP
If added incorrectly, immediately turn off CMARSHA for 24 hours with the pump
and filter operating this will help to evenly distribute the salt. The salt
display may take 24 hours to respond to the change in salt concentration.
SALT DOES NOT EVAPORATE FROM THE POOL
The only way to lower the salt concentration is to partially drain the pool
and refill it with fresh water.
Pounds and (Kg) of Salt Needed For 3200 PPM
Gallons and Liters of Pool/Spa Water
Current salt level ppm| Gallons Liters| 6,000
22,500| 8,000
30,000| 10,000
37,500| 12,000
45,500| 14,000
37,500| 10,000
37,500| 10,000
37,500
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---
0| Gallons| 180| 239| 301| 360| 419| 481| 540
liters| 82| 109| 136| 163| 190| 218| 245
200| Gallons| 170| 226| 284| 340| 396| 454| 510
Liters| 78| 103| 129| 154| 180| 206| 232
400| Gallons| 160| 213| 267| 320| 373| 427| 480
Liters| 73| 97| 121| 145| 170| 194| 218
600| Gallons| 150| 200| 250| 300| 350| 400| 450
Liters| 69| 91| 114| 136| 159| 182| 205
800| Gallons| 140| 187| 233| 280| 327| 373| 420
Liters| 64| 85| 106| 127| 148| 170| 191
1000| Gallons| 130| 173| 217| 260| 303| 347| 390
Liters| 59| 79| 98| 118| 138| 158| 177
1200| Gallons| 120| 160| 200| 240| 280| 320| 360
Liters| 55| 73| 91| 109| 127| 145| 164
1400| Gallons| 110| 147| 183| 220| 257| 293| 330
Liters| 51| 67| 83| 100| 117| 133| 150
1600| Gallons| 100| 133| 167| 200| 233| 267| 300
Liters| 46| 61| 76| 91| 106| 121| 136
1800| Gallons| 90| 120| 150| 180| 210| 240| 270
Liters| 41| 55| 68| 82| 95| 109| 123
2000| Gallons| 80| 107| 133| 160| 187| 213| 240
Liters| 36| 48| 61| 73| 85| 97| 109
2200| Gallons| 70| 93| 117| 140| 163| 187| 210
Liters| 32| 42| 53| 64| 74| 85| 95
2400| Gallons| 60| 80| 100| 120| 140| 160| 180
Liters| 27| 36| 45| 55| 64| 73| 82
2600| Gallons| 50| 67| 83| 100| 117| 133| 150
Liters| 23| 30| 38| 45| 53| 61| 68
2800| Gallons| 40| 53| 67| 80| 93| 107| 120
Liters| 18| 24| 30| 36| 42| 48| 55
3000| Gallons| 30| 40| 50| 60| 70| 80| 90
Liters| 14| 18| 23| 27| 32| 36| 41
3200| Gallons| 20| 27| 33| 40| 47| 53| 60
Liters| 9| 12| 15| 18| 21| 24| 27
3400| Gallons| 10| 13| 17| 20| 23| 27| 30
Liters| 4| 6| 8| 9| 11| 12| 14
3600t| | Ideal| Ideal| Ideal| Ideal| Ideal| Ideal| Ideal
3800| | OK| OK| OK| OK| OK| OK| OK
4000| | OK| OK| OK| OK| OK| OK| OK
4200| | High| High| High| High| High| High| High
4400| | Dilute| Dilute| Dilute| Dilute| Dilute| Dilute| Dilute
STABILIZER (CYANURIC ACID)
Always test for stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level, when testing for salt. This
test should be done at least once per month.
Use the chart below to determine how much stabilizer must be added to raise
the level to 80 ppm.
Pounds and (Kg) of Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) Needed For 80 PPM
Gallons and Liters of Pool/Spa Water
Current Stabilizer
Level ppm)| Gallons Liters| 6,000
22,500| 8,000
30,000| 10,000
37,500| 12,000
45,000| 14,000
52,500| 16,000
60,000| 18,000
67,500
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---
0 ppm| Gallons| 4.0| 5.3| 6.7| 8.0| 9.4| 10.7| 12.0
Liters| 1.8| 2.4| 3.0| 3.6| 4.3| 4.9| 5.4
10 ppm| Gallons| 3.5| 4.7| 5.8| 7.0| 8.2| 9.4| 10.5
Liters| 1.6| 2.1| 2.6| 3.2| 3.7| 4.3| 4.8
20 ppm| Gallons| 3.0| 4.0| 5.0| 6.0| 7.0| 8.0| 9.0
Liters| 1.4| 1.8| 2.3| 2.7| 3.2| 3.6| 2.2
30 ppm| Gallons| 2.5| 3.3| 4.2| 5.0| 5.9| 6.7| 7.5
Liters| 1.1| 1.5| 1.9| 2.3| 2.7| 3| 3.4
40 ppm| Gallons| 2.0| 2.7| 3.3| 4.0| 4.7| 5.4| 6.0
Liters| 0.9| 1.2| 1.5| 1.8| 2.1| 2.4| 2.7
50 ppm| Gallons| 1.5| 2.0| 2.5| 3.0| 3.5| 4.0| 4.5
Liters| 0.7| 0.9| 1.1| 1.4| 1.6| 1.8| 2
60 ppm| Gallons| 1.0| 1.3| 1.7| 2.0| 2.4| 2.7| 3.0
Liters| 0.5| 0.6| 0.8| 0.91| 1.1| 1.2| 1.4
70 ppm| Gallons| 0.5| 0.7| 0.8| 1.0| 1.2| 1.4| 1.5
Liters| 0.2| 0.3| 0.4| 0.45| 0.54| 0.64| 0.68
POLYMERS:
It is advised to use polymers (commonly sold as poly algaecide) on saltwater
sanitizing systems. The poly algaecide is sold in 30% and 60% concentrations.
The application rate is 1 quart of Poly30 (or Y, a quart of Poly 60) per
15,000 gallons (60,000 liters) of pool water, per month. Apply directly in
front of the return jet.
CONTROLS
MAIN SWITCH
- AUTO: For normal operation, the main switch should be left in the AUTO position. In this position, the CMARSHA will produce chlorine according to the “Desired Level %” adjustment setting for the entire filtering / pumping cycle.
- SUPER CHLORINATE: When you have an abnormally high bather load, heavy rainfall, cloudy water conditions, or any other condition which requires that a large amount of purification be introduced, set the Main Switch in the SUPER CHLORINATE position. This electronically “super chlorinates” (shocks) the water for 24 hours (filter pump must be on during this time) or until the power has been turned off, whichever comes first. At the end of the super chlorination period, be sure to put the switch back into the AUTO position.
- OFF: The OFF position prevents the CMARSHA from energizing the electrolytic cell. In this position, there is no chlorine generation.
NOTE: In times of servicing, the OFF switch is not to be used. To service the SPS, turn the power off the circuit breaker.
DESIRED LEVEL ADJUSTMENT KNOB
This setting is used to control the amount of chlorine the CMARSHA generates.
Adjust this setting to increase or decrease the chlorine output level. The
reading is from 5 percent output to 100% output capacity of the SPS.
INDICATOR LED
- POWER: When illuminated, the CMARSHA has input power.
- GENERATING: This LED is on steady during normal operation. When flashing, the pool water is too hot or cold to operate.
- SUPER CHLORINATE: Illuminates during Super Chlorination. See the description above.
- REMOTE CONTROLLED: The part is controlled by a remote-control system.
- NO FLOW: When illuminated, the flow switch has detected no flow and CMARSHA is NOT generating chlorine. A flashing LED indicates that the flow is restored, but there will be a 60-second delay before generation is reestablished.
- CHECK SALT: When flashing, the salt level is low (below 2500ppm) and CMARSHA is generating at low efficiency. When illuminated steady, the salt level is too low and CMARSHA has shut down.
Note: Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level professionally checked.
- HIGH SALT: When illuminated, the salt level is too high and CMARSHA has shut down. The pool water must be diluted with fresh water before the operation is restored.
- INSPECT CELL: If flashing, either the cell efficiency is reduced, or it is time for regularly scheduled cell inspection.
In either case, inspect the cell and clean if necessary. Pressing the “diagnostic” button next to the display for 3 seconds will stop the flashing LED. When illuminated steadily, cell efficiency is greatly reduced and CMARSHA has stopped producing chlorine. Inspect, clean, or replace if necessary.
SALT DISPLAY
The Salt Display shows the current salt concentration of the pool water.
Readings are in ppm (parts per million). If Metric units (grams per liter) are
preferred, push the “diagnostic” button next to the display once. The display
will now show the pool water temperature in degrees Fahrenheit. With the
temperature displayed, move the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE to
AUTO. The temperature display will instantly change to degrees Celsius. Repeat
this process to switch back to USA units (Fahrenheit).
DIAGNOSTIC DISPLAYS
Sequential pushes of the small “diagnostic” button next to the LCD display
will cause the Aqua Rite to display the following information:
- Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
- Cell voltage (typically 21. O to 27.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise I6-25V)
- Cell current (typically 2.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps)
- Desired Output % (“OP” — “I OOP” depending on knob position or input from remote pool automation controller)
- Instant salinity ( -XXXX ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter)
- Product name sent to the pool automation control display
- Software revision level
- Cell type
On the 8th push of the button, the display will revert back to the default salt display. Also, if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back too.
OPERATION
By familiarizing yourself with the operation of the CMARSHA generator, you can achieve maximum performance for your pool. When chemical levels are in the recommended range, there are FOUR factors that you can control which directly contribute to the amount of chlorine the CMARSHA will generate:
- Filter time each day (hours)
- The amount of salt in the pool
- The “Desired Level %” setting
- Stabilizer level in the water.
To find the optimum “Desired Level %” setting, start at a fairly high setting and work downward. It will take a few days of adjustments to find the ideal setting for your pool. Once determined, it should only make minor adjustments. Marsha control will not produce chlorine at temperatures below 50’F. If the pool water is colder than 50’F, you must chlorinate manually.
MAINTENANCE
Maintaining the System
To maintain maximum performance, it is recommended that you remove and
visually inspect the cell every 3 months. The CMARSHA will remind you to do
this by flashing the “Inspect Cell” LED after approximately 500 hours of
operation. After you inspect the cell (and clean, if necessary) press the
small “diagnostic” button next to the display for 3 seconds to stop the
flashing “Inspect Cell” LED and start the timer for the next 500-hour
inspection period.
The CMARSHA electrolytic cell has a self-cleaning feature incorporated into
the electronic control’s logic. In most cases, this self-cleaning action will
keep the cell working at optimum efficiency. In areas where water is hard
(high calcium and/or mineral content) and in pools where the water chemistry
has gotten “out of balance”, the cell may require periodic cleaning. The
“Inspect Cell” LED remains on after a thorough cleaning, the cell may be worn
and may require replacement.
Servicing and Cleaning the Cell
- Turn off power to the CMARSHA before removing the CELL.
- Once removed, look inside the cell and inspect for scale formation (light-colored crusty or flaky deposits) on the plates and for any debris that has passed through the filter and gotten caught on the plates.
- If no deposits are visible, reinstall. If deposits are seen, use a high-pressure garden hose and try to flush the scale off. If this is not successful, use a plastic or wood tool to scrape deposits off of the plates. DO NOT USE A METAL SCRAPER AS THIS WILL SCRATCH THE FINISH AND DAMAGE THE PLATES. Note that a buildup on the cell indicates that there is an unusually high calcium level in the pool (old pool water is usually the cause). If this is not corrected, you will need to clean the cell more frequently. The simplest way to avoid this is to bring the pool chemistry to recommended levels, as specified.
Mild Acid Washing
Use only in severe cases where flushing and scraping will not remove the
majority of deposits. To acid wash:
-
Turn off power to SPS.
-
Remove cell from the piping.
-
In a clean plastic container, carefully mix a 4: 1 solution of water to muriatic acid (one gallon of water to one quart of muriatic acid).
ALWAYS POUR ACID INTO WATER-NEVER POUR WATER INTO ACID. BE SURE TO WEAR PROTECTIVE GLASSES, CLOTHING, AND CHEMICAL-RESISTANT GLOVES. -
The level of the solution in the container should just reach the top of the cell so that the wire harness compartment is NOT submerged. It may be helpful to coil the wiring before immersing the cell.
-
The cell should soak for FIVE minutes, then rinse with a high-pressure garden hose.
-
If any deposits are still visible, repeat soaking and rinsing.
-
Replace cell and inspect again periodically.
Winterizing
The CMARSHA electrolytic cell and flow detection switch will be damaged by
freezing water, similar to other pool components that require proper
winterization. In areas of the country that experience severe or extended
periods of freezing temperatures, be sure to drain all water from the pump,
filter, and supply and return lines before any freezing conditions occur. The
electronic control is capable of withstanding any winter weather and should
not be removed.
Spring Start-up
DO NOT turn CMARSHA on, until the pool water chemistry has been balanced to
proper levels.
INSTALLATION
Installation must be performed in accordance with Local NEC codes.
Preparing Pool Water
The pool’s chemistry must be balanced BEFORE activating the SPS. It is
recommended that you consult a pool professional for the initial balancing
each season.
NOTE: At the beginning of each season, add metal remover and polymer-
based (noncopper) algaecide to the pool, per the manufacturer’s instructions.
This ensures a quick, trouble-free transfer to the CMARSHA system.
MOUNTING
The CMARSHA is contained in a rain-tight enclosure that is suitable for
outdoor mounting. The control must be mounted a minimum of 5 ft. (2 meters)
horizontal distance (or more if local codes require) from the pool/spa.
The control is designed to mount vertically on a flat surface with the
knockouts facing downward. Because the enclosure also acts as a heat sink
(disperses heat from inside the box), it is important not to block the four
sides of the control.
Do not mount the CMARSHA in a panel or tightly enclosed space.
PLUMBING
Ensure that the CMARSHA installation does not constitute a cross-connection
with the local potable water supply. Consult local plumbing codes.
The cell and flow switch is plumbed in the return line to the pool. Install
after (downstream) all the pool equipment (filter, heater, solar, etc.). The
kit included in the CMARSHA provides the necessary plumbing components for:
- 2″ (51mm) rigid PVC piping installation for in-ground pools
- 1-1/2 or 1-1/4″ (38-32mm) flexible hose connections for above ground pools For proper plumbing, refer to the overview diagram below
Flow Switch
IMPORTANT: To ensure proper operation, verify that the arrow on the flow
switch (located on the side) points in the same direction of the water flow.
Electrolytic Cell
Install using the unions provided. Tighten by HAND for a watertight seal. For
pool/spa combination systems with spillover, use configurations #2 or #3 above
to allow chlorination for both the pool and spa during spillover but prevent
over chlorination when operating the spa only.
WIRING
Power must be turned off at the circuit breaker before performing any wiring.
Be sure to follow Local and NEC electrical codes. To provide safe operation,
CMARSHA must be properly grounded and bonded.
INPUT POWER FOR STAND-ALONE OPERATION
Wire the CMARSHA to the LOAD SIDE of the filter pump timer. It is very
important that the CMARSHA is powered only when the pump is running.
Refer to the wiring label on CMARSHA as well as the diagram below to determine
correct wiring connections. The CMARSHA is shipped from the factory with the
configuration jumpers in a separate bag. Until the jumpers are installed for
the desired voltage, the unit should NOT be turned on.
- For Canadian models, the CMARSHA shall be connected to a circuit protected by a class A ground fault interrupter. Be sure to connect the GROUND wire to the green ground screw terminal located on the INSIDE WALL of the enclosure.
Note: Wire the pump directly to the time clock-do do not use the CMARSHA
as a junction box.
BONDING
A lug used for bonding is attached to the bottom of the CMARSHA enclosure (see
diagram below). The CMARSHA must be bonded with an 8 AWG copper wire (6 AWG
Canada) to the pool bonding system.
Electrolytic Cell and Flow Switch
The electrolytic cell and flow switch cables are terminated with connectors
that plug into the CMARSHA for easy attachment and removal. The door of the
CMARSHA must be open to access the cell cable connector. The flow switch plugs
into a connector (similar to a telephone jack) located outside on the bottom
of the enclosure. Refer to the diagram below for the location of these
connections.
Input Power for use with Goldline, Pentair, and Polaris Controls
Wire the CMARSHA DIRECTLY TO 120/240vac POWER (not through timer or relay).
Optional Goldline, Pentair, and Polaris
control:
The Goldline, Pentair, and Polaris control use a 4-wire connection to
communicate to the CMARSHA and can be wired up to 500′ apart. Any outdoor
rated 4 conductor cable can be used. Refer to each manufacturer’s instructions
and the wiring diagrams below for proper wiring connection to the SPS.
NOTE: There must be only 1 “primary” unit. All other CMARSHA units must
be configured as “secondary”.
Goldline – Attach wires to proper screw terminals as shown below.
Pentair – Attach wires to opposite numbered screw terminals as shown below. Note that the colors marked on the Pentair PCB do not match the SPS.
Polaris – Attach wires to proper screw terminals as shown below. Note that screw terminal “1” is marked on the Polaris PCB.
TROUBLESHOOTING
DIAGNOSTIC DISPLAYS
Sequential pushes of the small “diagnostic” button next to the LCD display
will cause the CMARSHA to display the following information:
- Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
- Cell voltage (typically 21.0 to 27.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise l6-25V )
- Cell current (typically 2.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps)
- Desired Output% (“OP”-“100P” depending on knob position)
- Instant salinity (-XXXX ppm or-x.xx grams/Liter)
- Product name sent to the display 7. Software revision level
- Cell type
On the 8th push of the button, the display will revert back to the default salt display. Also if the button is not pushed for 30 seconds, the display will revert back to default salt.
COMMON PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
-
“Power” LED not on
• Check to make sure 120 / 240 VAC input power is connected to the control. Be sure the jumpers are set properly. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is the input power, the fuse may have blown. The board is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector. -
“Generating” LED flashing
• The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The CMARSHA will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first. -
“No Flow” LED illuminated or flashing
• The CMARSHA has sensed a no-flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12″ of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow. If the light is flashing, the flow is established and the CMARSHA will turn on within 1 minute. -
“Check Salt” LED illuminated or flashing
• Check the salt level in the pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart on page 4. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level professionally checked. -
“High Salt” LED illuminated
• Check the salt level in the pool/spa. If the salt level is too high, lower the salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels. -
“Inspect Cell” LED flashing
• Inspect and clean cell according to directions. When done, press the “diagnostic” button for 3 seconds to stop the “Inspect Cell” LED flashing. -
“Inspect Cell” LED illuminated
• Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions on page 8 for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the “Inspect Cell” LED is still illuminated, the cell may be depleted and needs to be replaced. -
Possible causes of low chlorine or no chlorine
• CMARSHA switch in OFF position.
• Desired Level% adjustment setting is too low.
• Low stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) . Chlorine is being produced but the pool water is unable to hold on to the chlorine, due to a low stabilizer.
• Filter pump switched off or filter pump time too short (8 hours for average size pools, more for large pools).
• Salt level too low (below 2500 ppm, Low Salt LED on).
• Salt level too high (high Salt LED on).
• Low pH. Low pH oxidizes chlorine quickly, making it difficult to maintain desired chlorine levels. Adjust pH levels to re-balance water.
• Warm pool water increases chlorine demand-increase Desired Level% or filter run time.
• Coldwater (below 50F) can cause CMARSHA to stop generating (Generating LED flashing).
• Excessive scaling on cell.
• High level of phosphates in pool water.
• Some yellow algae treatments will use chlorine at a very high rate and deplete the residual free chlorine.
Manually shock the pool if indicated in the directions on the algae treatment. It still may be a matter of days before the pool returns to “normal” and chlorine tests will show the desired 1-3ppm free chlorine reading. -
“PCB” displayed and all 4 LEDs are illuminated.
• A possible printed circuit board fault has been detected. Call for service.
WARRANTY
THREE (3) YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY
The CMARSHA Salt Chlorination System is warranted to be free from defects in
materials and workmanship, under normal use and non-commercial application,
for a period of three (3) years, per the schedule below. To obtain service,
contact the authorized dealer from which the unit was purchased. Proof of
purchase may be required. This limited warranty is extended exclusively to the
original purchaser of the CMARSHA system and is non-transferable. MARSHA is
intended for residential pool use and any commercial application voids all
warranties.
Three (3) year limited warranty schedule for power center and generating cell.
During year one: 100%
During year two: 70%
During year three: 30%
All remaining components: one year, full
Exclusions:
- Problems arising from failure to maintain proper water chemistry levels, per manufacturer’s recommendations, as outlined in the Owner’s Manual.
- Problems arising from failure to use CMARSHA in accordance to the manufacturer’s recommendations, as outlined in the Owner’s Manual.
- Problems resulting from tampering, accident, electrical surges, abuse, neglect, unauthorized or unqualified repairs, product alteration, fire, flood, freeze damage, Acts of Nature, or Acts of God.
- Damage or degrading of concrete, natural stone, wood, or synthetic surfaces adjacent to the swimming pool or spa.
- Problems or damages incurred due to improper installation and/or improper electrical supply.
Disclaimers: This limited warranty constitutes the entire warranty. No
other warranties apply, expressed or implied. This limited warranty gives you
specific legal rights, which vary from state to state. Under no circumstances
shall CaliMar® or authorized agent/installer be responsible for consequential,
special, or incidental damage(s) of any kind, including but not limited to
personal injury, property damage, or damage to or loss of equipment. CaliMar®
or agent/installer is not liable for any other expenses that may be incurred
during installation or servicing. Authorized agents/installers may charge a
trip fee for warrantable service work.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of incidental or
consequential damages. Listed exclusions and limitations may not apply to you.
CaliMar Pool Products USA, Inc.
Manufacturers of Innovative & Quality Pool & Spa Products
888-635-0330
sales@calimarpool.com
www.calimarpool.com
References
Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
Read User Manual Online (PDF format) >>