MONARCH PLANK Wide-Plank Engineered Hardwood Floors Instruction Manual

MONARCH PLANK Wide-Plank Engineered Hardwood Floors

Engineered Flooring Installation Instructions For Collections with Solid Lumber Core Backing

Read all of these instructions carefully before beginning. In addition to these instructions, we recommend that the installer follow all guidelines set forth by the National Wood Flooring Association (www.nwfa.org). Where these instructions differ from NWFA guidelines, these instructions take precedence.

PRIOR TO INSTALLATION

It is the installer’s responsibility to ensure that all of these General Conditions are met prior to installation, and that all specific installation instructions below for the installation method you have chosen (Glue Down, Nail Down, or Floating Floor plus, when applicable, Radiant Heat Systems) are followed carefully. When installed according to these instructions, this Engineered Hardwood Flooring is approved for use above, on and below grade. When installing below grade, use the Floating Floor installation method. It is the installer’s responsibility to inspect the flooring for proper color, grade, visible manufacturing defects, damage, or otherwise unsatisfactory appearance. Upon receipt of the flooring, open 1-2 cartons to inspect and confirm with the job supervisor AND the homeowner/end-user that the material is satisfactory. If any problem is found, do not open any additional cartons. Contact your local retailer or distributor immediately. Do not install damaged or visibly unsatisfactory material.

Installing a plank constitutes acceptance of its appearance by the installer and homeowner/end-user. If installing over radiant heat, read the ‘Radiant Heat Systems’ section below before finalizing product selection or beginning installation. Careful adherence to these guidelines is required for a successful and fully warranted installation. Certain wood species and plank sizes are not warranted for installation over any type of radiant heat. Manufacturer does not offer a warranty on ANY flooring installed over electric radiant heat systems. Only hydronic (water) systems may be approved. In wood flooring installations over radiant heat, moderate surface checking, cracking (especially at the ends of boards and around knots), shrinkage, gapping between planks, and slight cupping are all to be expected and do not constitute a product defect. Note: When nailing down planks wider than 5”, it is strongly recommended to use a full spread adhesive in addition to nails in order to prevent movement and squeaking. Claims will not be accepted for movement or squeaking in floors wider than 5” that were nailed down without a full spread adhesive. Nailing planks wider than 7.5” wide without a full spread adhesive will void all warranties. (See below under ‘Nail + Glue Installation Instructions’ for details.)

ACCLIMATION

Prior to installation, upon receipt of cartons and confirmation with end-user that the appearance of the flooring is acceptable, proceed to acclimate all cartons to site conditions. Distribute the cartons into the rooms/areas where they will be installed. South & West facing rooms will generally have different temperature ranges than North & East facing rooms. Only after occupancy-ready site conditions have been established (see below under ‘General Requirements’), carefully cut single slits in the packaging on both ends of each carton, being careful not to tear the packaging in case a return is needed. Do not open the cartons other than the slits on the ends. Do not cut the straps inside the carton until acclimation is complete. Removal of the flooring from the cartons/straps prior to installation could result in bowing/bending that could make the flooring difficult to install. When the cartons are first opened, use a pin-type moisture meter and take 20-30 moisture content (MC) readings per thousand feet of flooring. Also, use a hygrometer to check the Relative Humidity (RH) in the space. Record all readings. Repeat this process (checking RH and the MC of the same planks checked previously) every few days until the moisture content has stopped changing and the wood has reached Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC). Most jobsite conditions will require acclimation time of at least 5 days, but assessment of proper acclimation should be based on moisture content, not time.

Note: when installing solid lumber core flooring in regions where dry conditions are expected (mountains, desert, cold winter regions), the use of a quality tongue & groove glue such as Titebond III along all seams will help prevent gapping between planks and is highly recommended.

GENERAL REQUIREMENTS – ALL INSTALLATION METHODS

Environmental Conditions
To help minimize moisture-related expansion and contraction, verify the following conditions prior to installation:

• Permanent HVAC should be on and operational and maintained between 60-75°F with relative humidity of 35%-55% for a minimum of 7 days prior to delivery, during acclimation and installation, and throughout the life of the floor. Humidity levels below 35% or above 55% may cause movement in the flooring, gapping between pieces, cupping, cracking and other problems. Use of a humidification or dehumidification system may be required to maintain proper humidity levels, particularly over radiant heat and in desert or mountain regions.
• All exterior walls, windows, and doors must be in place and the building envelope closed during acclimation and installation.
• All wet work such as painting, drywall, masonry, and concrete must be completed and dry.
• Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 18” high from the ground to the bottom of the joist. Dirt floors in crawl spaces should be covered with a 6-10 mil black plastic to reduce moisture migration. Seams should overlap and be sealed with waterproof tape. Perimeter crawl space cross ventilation should equal 1.5% of the square footage. Vents must remain open year round.
• Exterior grading should be complete and drainage should move away from the building structure with a minimum drop of 3” in 10’.

Subfloor Conditions

Subfloors must be:
Clean – Subfloors must be scraped clean and free of debris. Sweep and /or vacuum all debris from the subfloor. Debris on the subfloor may cause over- wood and uneven surfaces in the finished floor, poor fit between planks, and poor adhesive bond in glue-down installations.
Flat – Subfloors must be flat to within 3/16” over any 10’ radius and 1/8” over any 6’ radius.
Check the flatness using a straight edge, laser line or string line. Grind, scrape, sand or shim all high or low spots. On concrete subfloors, grind all high areas and fill low areas using a quality cementitious leveling compound. Ensure that all fasteners securing the subfloor are set flush.
Dry – Check and record all moisture and temperature conditions prior to installation. Visually check the jobsite for potential moisture problems. Look for signs of water intrusion around window and doors. Check for mold or fungus on walls and all other areas. Water intrusion may necessitate structural repairs and/or create conditions unsuitable for flooring installation.

• Plywood and composite subfloors should be checked using a calibrated moisture meter. Be sure to use the correct moisture meter setting for the species being checked. Carefully follow the moisture meter manufacturer’s operation instructions. Moisture readings should not exceed 10% in any location and the moisture variation between the subfloor and the flooring should not exceed 2% at time of installation.
• Concrete subfloors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil polyfilm between the concrete and ground. Lightweight concrete can hold more moisture and may take longer to dry out to an acceptable moisture content.
• Installations over concrete require the use of a Calcium Chloride test per ASTM F1869, or an in-situ Relative Humidity test per ASTM F2170. Test all areas where wood will be installed. The results of the Calcium Chloride tests should not exceed 3 lbs per 24 hours per 1000 square feet, and in-situ test results should not exceed 75% RH. Carefully record all results.
• NOTE: These tests give a snapshot of moisture conditions at the time of the test, but do not reflect the permanent year-round condition of the substrate. If Gluing Down on concrete that is on or below grade, it is highly recommended to use a concrete sealer approved by the manufacturer of the adhesive you have chosen, even if you believe the concrete is dry. A concrete slab on or below grade that measures dry today may become moist in the future and cause floor failure. Manufacturer is not responsible for site related moisture issues.
• More stringent requirements regarding the dryness of the subfloor apply when installing over radiant heat. See below under ‘Radiant Heat Systems’ for details.

Structurally Sound – Wood subfloors must be well fastened. Use screws every 6” and replace subfloor panels/boards as necessary to eliminate all movement and squeaking.

Acceptable subfloor types:

• CDX plywood – at least 5/8” thick for joist spacing up to 16” on center, minimum 3/4” thick for joist spacing greater than 16” on center (19.2” maximum). Plywood subfloors installed over concrete must be installed in accordance with the guidelines set forth by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) – www.nwfa.org).
• OSB – at least 3/4” thick, PS 2-92 rated or PS 1-95 rated.
• Existing hardwood flooring over a suitable subfloor as outlined above. Existing floor must be well-fastened, smooth, and for Glue Down installations, unfinished.
• Underlayment grade particleboard (minimum 40 lb. density) – Glue Down/Floating Floors only.
• Concrete slab – Glue Down/Floating Floors only. Concrete must be at least 3000 lbs. density for Glue Down installations.
• Lightweight concrete (gypcrete) – Floating Floors only. Gluing to concrete that is less than 3000 lbs. density is NOT WARRANTED. Manufacturer provides no guarantee that lightweight concrete or gypcrete will remain structurally sound during the life of the floor. Separation of the flooring from the subfloor caused by deterioration or fracturing of the substrate will not be considered a product failure.
• Ceramic tile – Floating Floor only. Tile must be well-adhered and flat to 3/16” over any 10’ radius.
• Resilient tile & sheet vinyl – Glue Down/Floating Floors only; for glue-down, tile/vinyl must be new, non-urethane-coated, and well-adhered to the subfloor.

Preparing the Perimeter

• Undercut door trim, jambs and casings to the thickness of the flooring plus any adhesives or underlayments you plan to use.
• All wood flooring expands and contracts with changes in humidity. It is essential to install the floor leaving adequate expansion space between ALL sides of the flooring and ALL vertical obstructions, including door trim, jambs, studs, plumbing, cabinets, etc. This space will be covered with base molding. Failure to provide adequate expansion space in any single location can cause damage to the entire floor.
• Minimum expansion space for 9/16” – 3/4” thick flooring is 5/8”

Layout
Whenever possible, use an exterior wall as the starting wall. On plywood subfloors, if the subfloor is fastened to joists or trusses, the flooring should be installed perpendicular or at a 45° angle to the joists/trusses. If the subfloor is solid wood planking, flooring should be installed perpendicular or at a 45° angle to the solid wood planking. For floating installations, no contiguous area of installed flooring should exceed 30’ across the widths of the planks or 50’ along the lengths of the planks. For spaces wider or longer than these dimensions, add expansion space midway through the span and cover with a T-molding or other transition piece.

General Tools and Accessories (all installation methods):

• Pencil; Tape Measure; Safety Glasses; Utility Knife; Pin-type Moisture Meter; Hammer; Shim Wedges; Tapping Block; Rubber Mallet; Rags; Carpenter square; Pry Bar or Pull Bar; Prefinished Wood Filler; Scraper; Dust Mask; Chalk Box & Chalk; Recommended Saws: Power Miter Saw, Table Saw, Jamb Saw.
• FILLERS: if filler is needed to repair voids, do not use oil-based fillers, as these can permanently discolor the wood beneath the finish if too much is applied. Large voids between planks suggest problems that should be addressed by means other than filler. If the flooring is not fitting together correctly, STOP the installation and contact your Sales Representative immediately.
• Avoid the use of tape on the surface of the floor. Any use of tape may damage the finish. Instead, use strap clamps to pull and hold planks tight together. If you choose to use tape against this recommendation, use ONLY 3M Advanced Delicate Surfaces 2080EL Tape, and be sure to remove any tape within 20 minutes of application. Never tape temporary protective covering directly to the floor – only tape it to itself. Claims will not be accepted for damage to the floor surface caused by tape.

Once all of these General Requirements are met, continue the installation using the instructions for the type(s) of installation you have chosen (Nail Down, Nail + Glue, Glue Down, Floating Floor, and Radiant Heat Systems).

NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

not recommended for planks wider than 5”. For planks wider than 5”, follow the ‘Nail + Glue’ or ‘Glue Down’ Installation Instructions. NOTE: nailing planks wider than 7.5” wide without a full spread adhesive will void all warranties.
This Engineered Wood Flooring can be nailed to plywood, OSB and existing wood flooring meeting the requirements outlined above under ‘Subfloor Conditions.’ For Nail Down Installations, you will need the General Tools and Accessories, plus: Nail set; Tack Stapler or 1″ roofing nails (for felt); 6-d Finish Nails or Pneumatic Finish Nailer with 1 1/4” to 1 ½” fastener; Edge or Blind Stapler/Nailer (Manual or Pneumatic) with 1 ½” – 2” Fasteners for flooring 5/8” – ¾” thick, or 1-1/4” to 1-1/2” fasteners for flooring 5/16” – 9/16” thick (always do a test plank to verify that fasteners are seating properly and not causing dimpling on the surface); Compressor with hose (if pneumatic tools are used); 15 lb. roofing felt, #15 hardwood floor underlayment felt, or Aqua Bar underlayment paper.

Nailing Down the Floor

1. After installing 15 lb. felt or Aqua Bar per the manufacturer’s instructions, measure out from the starting wall the width of one flooring plank plus the appropriate expansion space for that thickness of flooring. Mark two points toward each end of the starting wall and snap a chalk line along the full length of the wall through the marks.
2. Lay the tongue side of the first row of flooring along the chalk line. Face nail (top nail) the first row of flooring in place. Place the fasteners approximately 3/4″ from the wall side (groove side) of the flooring board every 4″ to 6″. Continue the first row installation blind/edge nailing every 4″ to 6″ along the tongue and every 2″ to 3″ from every end joint. Note: Blind/edge nailing of the first row may require the installer to use 6-d finish nails or the pneumatic inish nailer along the tongue.
3. Continue the installation across the room, blind/edge nailing every 4″ to 6″ and 2″ to 3″ from each end joint. Stagger end joints by at least 18”. Avoid creating “H” patterns (where an end joint is adjacent to another end joint in the second to last row installed). Use cut ends to start the subsequent row, discarding any pieces shorter than 12”.
4. Trim the last row of flooring to maintain the minimum expansion space at the far wall.
5. At the far (finish) wall, it may be necessary to face-nail the last 2-3 rows due to the angle of the stapler/nailer. The last row or two of flooring may need to be pulled together using a pulling bar.
6. Complete the installation by reinstalling or installing new base moldings.

NAIL + GLUE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

required when nailing down planks over 7.5” wide, recommended when nailing down all planks over 5” wide This Engineered Wood Flooring can be nailed + glued to plywood, OSB and existing wood flooring meeting the requirements outlined above under ‘Subfloor Conditions,’ using full-spread adhesive. For Nail + Glue Installations, you will need the General Tools and Accessories, plus: Premium Wood Flooring Adhesive: Franklin 771, 811, or 821, Bostik GreenForce, BEST, or VaporLock, or Bona R851; Adhesive Remover: Pacific Pride Orange Adhesive Remover; Adhesive Trowel recommended by the manufacturer of the adhesive selected; Nail set; Tack Stapler or 1″ roofing nails (for felt); 6-d Finish Nails or Pneumatic Finish Nailer with 1 1/4” to 1 ½” fastener; Edge or Blind Stapler/Nailer (Manual or Pneumatic) with 1 ½” – 2” Fasteners for flooring 5/8” – ¾” thick, or 1-1/4” to 1-1/2” fasteners for flooring 5/16” – 9/16” thick (always do a test plank to verify that fasteners are seating properly and not causing dimpling on the surface); Compressor with hose (if pneumatic tools are used); 15 lb. roofing felt, #15 hardwood floor underlayment felt, or Aqua Bar underlayment paper.

Nailing + Gluing the Floor:

1. Measure out from the starting wall the width of one flooring plank plus the appropriate expansion space for that thickness of flooring. Mark two points toward each end of the starting wall and snap a chalk line along the full length of the wall through the marks.

2. Trowel spread the adhesive on the subfloor along the chalk line wide enough to allow the first row of flooring to be installed, being careful not to cover the line. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for wet lay times before proceeding to the next step.

3. Lay the tongue side of the first row of flooring along the chalk line. Face nail (top nail) the first row of flooring in place. Place the fasteners approximately 3/4″ from the wall side (groove side) of the board every 4″ to 6″. Once the face nails are set, use 6-d finish nails or the pneumatic finish nailer to blind/edge nail along the tongue of the first row, every 4″ to 6″ and every 2″ to 3″ from every end joint. Check to make sure the first row is still straight along the chalk line before proceeding.

4. Trowel spread enough adhesive to install 2-3 more rows.

5. Install the second row by sliding the groove side on to the tongue of the first row. Blind/edge nail it in to place, with fasteners every 4″ to 6″ and 2″ to 3″ from each end joint. Stagger end joints by at least 18”.

6. Continue nailing and gluing 2-3 rows at a time in this manner across the room. Avoid creating “H” patterns
   (where an end joint is adjacent to another end joint in the second to last row installed). Use cut ends to start the subsequent row, discarding any pieces shorter than 12”.

7. Most adhesives require that the installer clean the adhesive off the flooring boards during the installation. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for this procedure. If adhesive remover is needed, use only the recommended Pacific Pride Orange Adhesive Remover and use it only as needed to remove localized adhesive spots. Never use any adhesive remover to clean large areas.

8. Trim the last row of flooring to maintain the minimum expansion space at the far wall.

9. At the far (finish) wall, it may be necessary to face-nail the last 2-3 rows due to the angle of the stapler/nailer. The last row or two of flooring may need to be pulled together using a pulling bar.

10. Complete the installation by reinstalling or installing new base moldings.

11. Do not allow foot traffic on the floor for 24 hours after installation is complete.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS – for all plank widths
This Engineered Flooring can be glued down to concrete, plywood, OSB, underlayment grade particleboard, and existing wood floors meeting the requirements outlined above under General Conditions/Subfloor Conditions. This Engineered Flooring can also be glued to other surfaces such as well-adhered sheet vinyl, vinyl tile, ceramic, etc., but the performance of the adhesive is the responsibility of the adhesive manufacturer and careful adherence to the adhesive manufacturer’s installation instructions for that particular subfloor surface is crucial. Manufacturer does not warrant the adhesive bond between the subfloor and the wood flooring.
For Glue Down Installations, you will need the General Tools and Accessories, plus:
Strap Clamps; Premium Wood Flooring Adhesive: Franklin 771, 811, or 821, Bostik GreenForce, BEST, or VaporLock, or Bona R851; Adhesive Remover: Pacific Pride Orange Adhesive Remover; Adhesive Trowel recommended by the manufacturer of the adhesive selected.

Gluing Down the Floor

1. Measure out from the starting wall the width of one flooring plank plus the appropriate expansion space for that thickness of flooring. Mark two points toward each end of the starting wall and snap a chalk line along the full length of the wall through the marks. Install backer boards as guides along the wall side of the chalk line. Anchor the backer boards in place with screws or finish nails. Over concrete subfloors, anchor the backer boards with concrete screws or concrete nails. These boards will be removed later.
2. Lay the first row of flooring, but do not glue into place. Align the tongue side of the flooring boards against the backer board. Use cut ends to start the subsequent row, discarding any pieces shorter than 12”. Dry lay the next two rows of flooring in place, sliding the tongue into the groove. End joints should be staggered by at least 18”. Pull the rows of flooring boards away from the backer board approximately 24” to allow for the glue to be spread.
3. Trowel spread the adhesive on the subfloor along the backer board wide enough to allow the first three rows of flooring to be installed. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for wet lay times before proceeding to the next step.
4. Install the first row of flooring, pressing the tongue to the backer board. Slide the tongue of the next row of flooring into the groove of the first row and continue until the first three rows are done.
5. Trowel spread adhesive and continue the installation across the room. Be careful not to move the installed flooring out of position. Some flooring boards may need to be tapped or pulled into place with a tapping block or pull bar. Use strap clamps to pull rows tight and hold them together while the adhesive sets. Trim the last row of flooring to maintain the minimum expansion space at the far wall.
6. Most adhesives require that the installer clean the adhesive off the flooring boards during the installation. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for this procedure. If adhesive remover is needed, use only the recommended Pacific Pride Orange Adhesive Remover and use it only as needed to remove localized adhesive spots. Never use any adhesive remover to clean large areas.
7. Once the room is finished, remove the backer boards at the starter row.
8. Dry lay the first row of flooring to replace the backer board. Trowel spread the adhesive on the back of the flooring boards (not on the subfloor) and install the flooring, sliding the groove onto the tongue of the already installed starter row. Doorways and other openings may require installation of the flooring the same way. Slide the flooring boards under the previously cut door trims and casings.
9. Complete the installation by reinstalling or installing new base moldings.
10. Do not allow foot traffic on the floor for 24 hours after installation is complete.

FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS – for all plank widths This Engineered Wood Flooring can be installed as a floating floor system over almost all types of subfloors including Plywood, OSB, Existing Wood Floor, Vinyl, Vinyl Tile, and Ceramic Tile provided they are clean, flat, dry and structurally sound, meeting the requirements outlined above under ‘Subfloor Conditions.’ Note: Engineered Wood Flooring boards must be at least 4” wide to be installed as a floating floor system. For Floating Floors, you will need the General Tools and Accessories, plus: Strap Clamps; Tongue and Groove Glue: Franklin Titebond III or Equivalent PVA adhesive; Underlayment Pad: ~1/8” thick Two-in-One pad (pad plus vapor barrier) or ~1/8” thick pad with 6 mil polyfilm sheeting.

Floating the Floor

1. If installing over underlayment pad plus a separate layer of polyfilm, install the 6 mil polyfilm first, taping all seams with waterproof tape, and then install the pad. Roll out the first run of pad from wall to wall parallel to the starter wall. On the installed pad mark two points toward each end of the starting wall and chalk a line the full length of the wall through the marks. This is the starter line.
2. Lay the first row of flooring using only long boards. The first flooring board and the last flooring board in this row should be a minimum of 12” long and cut to provide the appropriate expansion space on each end. Apply a 1/8” continuous bead of T&G glue on the bottom side of the groove of each end joint. Align the tongue side of the starter row along the chalk line and engage the end joints together. Use shims along the long wall and at both ends of the row to keep the floor in place and maintain the right expansion space.
3. Lay the second and third row of flooring boards. End joints should be separated by a minimum of 8” from the adjacent row. Spread a 1/8” bead of T&G glue along the bottom side of the long groove and each end joint groove on the second row of flooring. Engage the groove side of the second row with the tongue of the starter row. Engage the end joints at the same time, aligning them and cutting at the end of each row to allow for appropriate expansion space. Continue this procedure for the third row. These three rows must be aligned straight to ensure that the rest of the installation remains straight.
4. Continue using the same procedure. If boards do not easily engage together, use a tapping block or pull-bar. Use strap clamps to pull rows tight and hold them together while the T&G glue sets. Trim the last row of flooring to maintain the minimum expansion space at the far wall.
5. Avoid working on top of the installed flooring to prevent breakage of the glue joint.
6. Complete the installation by reinstalling or installing new base moldings.
7. Do not allow foot traffic on the floor for 24 hours after installation is complete.

RADIANT HEAT SYSTEMS

NOTE: the following Solid Lumber Core products are NOT WARRANTED in installations over radiant heat:

• All Hickory/Pecan and Maple products, regardless of plank dimensions The following Solid Lumber Core products ARE WARRANTED for use over hydronic radiant heat: European Oak, White Oak, Red Oak, Japanese Oak, Japanese Chestnut, Teak, American Cherry, Ash, Walnut or Japanese Walnut in plank widths not exceeding 9.5” wide. If the product you plan to install is not described above, please contact your retailer or distributor for clarification before finalizing product selection. In all installations over radiant heat, the warranty will be void if any of the following requirements and instructions are not adhered to:
• The radiant heat system must be hydronic (using warm water). This Engineered Wood Flooring is not warranted over electric radiant floor heat systems.
• The heat system must be designed for wood flooring. Outside temperature sensors and in-floor direct contact temperature sensors are highly recommended.
• The system design must evenly distribute the heat across the subfloor by one of these methods:
  1. embedding the tubing at least ¾” deep below the flooring in a cementitious layer
  2. having a heat-conducting metal layer at least 0.020” thick well bonded to the surface of the subfloor
  3. having a plywood layer (minimum ¾” thick) between the tubing and the flooring, with heat conducting flashing above the tubing on the underside of the subfloor.
• The system controller must be designed for wood flooring and have a temperature control mechanism that will not allow the surface temperature of the wood floor to exceed 82°F.
• The system must be kept on and within 15°F of normal operating temperature AT ALL TIMES.
• For concrete subfloors, conduct and document Calcium Chloride Tests per ASTM F1869. Test results must not exceed 2.0 lbs. per 1000 square feet per 24 hours.
• For wood subfloors, use a pin type meter to document the moisture content of the subfloor. Moisture readings should not exceed 8% in any location and readings for the subfloor must be within 2% of the flooring at the time of installation.
• Relative humidity at the jobsite must be maintained between 35% and 55% at all times. Failure to maintain proper humidity levels will void all warranties.
• The radiant heat system must be on and operating at normal output a minimum of 14 days prior to the start of the installation.
• Wood flooring must be delivered to the jobsite and thoroughly acclimated to jobsite temperature and humidity conditions with the radiant heat system on and functioning (see ACCLIMATION above).
• To help prevent gapping at the seams, use a continuous bead of a quality tongue & groove glue such as Titebond III along all four sides of each plank.
• After installation, do not cover a radiant-heated wood floor with protective covering for longer than a few hours. Leaving any type of protective covering on top of a heated floor can create an ‘oven effect’ that can damage the wood and void the warranty.
• Temperature in the installation area must be controlled between 60°F and 80°F at all times.
• Maximum surface temperature of the wood flooring can never exceed 82°F.
• Excessive heat, rapid heating, and/or failure to maintain humidity levels between 35% and 55% may cause cracking, cupping and other forms of failure and will void the warranty.
• NOTE: in wood flooring installations over radiant heat, moderate surface checking, cracking (especially at the ends of boards and around knots), shrinkage, gapping between planks, and slight cupping are all to be expected and do not constitute a product defect. Once these instructions and requirements are met, continue the installation by following the instructions for your specific installation method as outlined above.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Not all floors are coated with the same type of coating. Different coatings require different maintenance procedures. The cleaning/maintenance products recommended for one coating may damage a floor finished with another type of coating. Before cleaning your floor, confirm whether it has a Urethane coating or a UV Oil coating. Contact your retailer or distributor if you are not certain. See below under ‘Cleaning & Recoating’ for detailed instructions for each coating type, either Urethane or UV Oil.

General Care – All Coating Types

• Flooring should be one of the last items installed in a project. In order to protect the floors while other trades are finishing their work prior to final cleanup and turnover to the owner, use a breathable protective covering such as Ram Board or Floorotex. Do not use Red Rosin paper, and do not use polyfilm or other non-breathing coverings as they can cause damage from humidity buildup. Clean the floor thoroughly before laying the covering to ensure that no debris is trapped underneath. Tape pieces of protective covering together but do not tape them to the wood flooring.
• Temporary floor covering should never be kept in place longer than a few (1-5) days. For installations over radiant heat, covering should never be left in place for more than a few hours.
• Place walk-off mats at all entrances to collect dirt and debris that could damage or dull the flooring finish. Mats are also required in areas where people congregate and/or stand for long periods of time, such as in front of ovens, sinks, service counters, and cash registers.
• Install felt floor protectors underneath all furniture.
• In food service areas such as restaurants and cafeterias, top-coating a urethane-coated floor will help prevent against moisture damage caused by frequent spills. See below for recommendations on how to top-coat the specific flooring product you have selected.
• Do not allow people to wear spiked heels on the floor, which will damage even the hardest wood floors and finishes.
• Pet claws should be properly trimmed at all times.
• Work boots and shoes that may have pebbles lodged in the soles should be removed prior to entering.
• Sweep or vacuum frequently. Most damage to wood floor finishes is caused by debris that is walked on.
• All mats or rugs should be cleaned on a regular basis. They should also be moved occasionally to allow natural color changes caused by light to occur evenly in all areas. Do not allow soiled mats or rugs to stay on the floor as they can trap moisture on the surface.
• Never wet-mop your floor, and always clean up spills and standing water as soon as possible. With oil-finished floors, water left for prolonged periods may cause water-spotting. With water or any other cleaning agent, be sure to thoroughly ring out the applicator or mop prior to applying it to the floor. A damp mop is fine as long as the moisture is limited to an amount that will evaporate almost immediately. Moisture that is allowed to seep into the seams between the planks may cause damage to your flooring.

CLEANING & RECOATING

Floors Coated with Urethane:

• Clean the floor regularly with Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner or Basic Coatings Squeaky Commercial Floor Cleaner. Never apply polishes, waxes, oils, oil soaps, or petroleum-based cleaners under any circumstances. Use adhesive remover only to remove spots of adhesive, not as a cleaner. Do not use abrasive cleaning implements or steam mops.
• With textured floors that have soil embedded in the wood grain, periodic deep cleaning with a power cleaning machine recommended for hardwood floors such as the Bona Power Scrubber or Basic Dirt Dragon may be required to thoroughly clean the floor.

When it becomes necessary to add an additional coat of protection to the floor, we recommend the Bona Prep or Basic Tykote systems in combination with the compatible two-component water-based finish, such as Bona Traffic Naturale or Basic Pure Matte. These systems clean and prepare the floor to receive the new topcoat, allowing for easy recoating without sanding. Follow the Bona or Basic recommendations carefully. Before proceeding, always do a test to ensure good adhesion of the new coat and to ensure that the gloss level of the new finish is satisfactory, as the gloss of the finish in the installed floor may have dulled somewhat depending on age.

Floors Coated with UV Oil: DO

• Immediately after installation and for regular cleaning, mop with WOCA Soap Natural or, for white colors, WOCA Soap White. These are concentrates that are mixed with water. They not only clean, but also help keep the floor nourished and better protected/sealed by leaving a thin layer of coconut and soy fats. Frequent cleaning with WOCA Soap (up to once weekly) will extend the time before re-oiling becomes necessary and will help prevent against staining and water-spotting.

REMEMBER – FREQUENT USE OF WOCA SOAP IS THE MOST IMPORTANT KEY TO MAINTAINING THIS FLOOR.

• When cleaning, use a cotton mop (not micro-fiber). Use a second rinse bucket of clean water to remove dirt from the mop before re-soaking it in the cleaning solution. Change the rinse bucket water frequently.
• For convenient spot cleaning, use WOCA Soap & Spray Natural (or, for white colors, Soap & Spray White) which is pre-mixed with water for immediate use.
• For more difficult stains, use WOCA Spot Remover. If a mop or rag does not remove the spot, try scrubbing gently with a 3M 4100 Super Polish White Pad.
• Two to four times a year, depending on traffic, apply WOCA Oil Refresher Natural (or, for white colors, WOCA Oil Refresher White) to a freshly cleaned floor. This will introduce a small amount of oil to freshen the finish and extend the time before a re-oiling becomes necessary. If water is not beading on the floor or the floor seems to scuff easily, these are signs that more frequent Refresher is needed. If the finish is getting hazy, you may be using the Refresher too frequently. Reduce the frequency and use Soap instead.
• Light scratches are best repaired by hand rubbing WOCA Master Floor Oil Natural, WOCA Master Floor Oil White, or a Master Color Oil on the affected area using a cloth. If necessary, first clean the area to be repaired with WOCA Wood Cleaner. Be sure the area is dry before applying oil. Leave the oil to absorb for a short period of time before thoroughly buffing and removing the oil from the surrounding area.
• Sweep or vacuum frequently. Oil finishes soak into the wood, protecting from within rather than forming a barrier above, so the natural wood texture is felt at the surface. Debris left on the floor can get ground into the grain by foot traffic and become more difficult to remove.
• If the floor is beginning to look worn or losing its stain resistance, it may be time to re-oil the floor. This generally occurs between one and five years after installation, depending on foot traffic. Re-oiling requires a thorough cleaning with Woca Wood Cleaner followed by the application of the appropriate colored Master Oil or Color Oil. Re-oiling is best done by a professional using a buffer.

DON’T’s

• Never use ammonia, vinegar, petroleum-based cleaners, wax, polish, household dust treatment chemicals, abrasive cleaners, scrubbing pads, furniture cleaners, steam mops, or any other non-WOCA brand product to clean your oil-finished floor.
• Avoid mopping the floor with just water. Always use WOCA Soap or, when needed, Oil Refresher.
• Do not apply Refresher to a soiled floor. Refresher is not a cleaning product and should only be applied to a freshly cleaned floor. Applying Refresher to a soiled floor could create a dirty, hard-to-remove residue.
• Avoid using a micro-fiber mop, which over time may gradually remove oil from the floor.
• WOCA Wood Cleaner is not intended for regular cleaning. It is an aggressive cleaner that strips some of the oil from the floor. Other than using it for small repairs as described above, do not use WOCA Wood Cleaner unless you are preparing the floor for a new coat of oil.

COMMERCIAL SPACES

• For commercial floors that require frequent cleaning, use WOCA Master Soap. The Master Soap is formulated to allow virtually daily cleaning without leaving behind residue, which may cause excessive buildup over time.
• On commercial floors, apply WOCA Oil Refresher or WOCA Oil Refresher White three to four times a year. See the WOCA website (www.woodcareusa.com) for more details and instructional videos.

We want every customer to be happy and satisfied with their purchase. If there are claims or questions, or in the event that you are not totally satisfied with your hardwood floor, contact your local retailer first. If the retailer is unable to answer your questions you may contact us in writing at the following address: Attn: Customer Service, 9303 Greenleaf Ave., Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670.

References

• NWFA | National Wood Floors Association
• Frontpage - USA

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