trickstuff C21 Full Disc Brake Rear Instruction Manual
- June 17, 2024
- trickstuff
Table of Contents
- trickstuff C21 Full Disc Brake Rear
- Product Usage Instructions
- Regular check for your safety
- Handling of brake oil
- installation
- Mounting the Caliper
- Assembly and shortening the brake line
- Troubleshooting
- Warranty Statement
- References
- Read User Manual Online (PDF format)
- Download This Manual (PDF format)
trickstuff C21 Full Disc Brake Rear
Product Specifications
- Product Name: PICCOLA Disc Brake C21
- Caliper Type: Two-piston caliper
- Model Year: 2018
Product Usage Instructions
-
Safety Note:
When removing the wheel or brake pads, ensure the brake is not actuated to prevent the brake piston from closely engaging with the brake disc. In extreme cases, the slave piston may extend too far, leading to oil leakage. Contact service if needed. -
Resetting Slave Piston:
If the slave piston extends too far, use a flat hardwood or screwdriver to push it back evenly. Avoid diagonal pressure as it may damage the piston seal. Reset the pistons with minimal effort to prevent brake failure. -
Handling Brake Oil:
Dispose of old brake oil responsibly according to regulations. Avoid letting brake oil enter sewage systems or natural waters -
Turning the Bicycle:
Air bubbles may form in the brake system if the bike is turned over. After turning the bike back, press the brake lever to check functionality. If issues persist, follow the steps for bleeding the brake system. -
Installation:
- Install disc brakes only with appropriate components. Use high-quality tools for mounting and ensure the disc is not contaminated during assembly.
- Mount the brake disc by aligning it with the hub flange and inserting the supplied Torx screws. Follow the arrow on the brake disc for correct orientation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):
-
Q: How can I ensure proper brake function after turning my bike over?
A: Press the brake lever multiple times to allow air bubbles to return to the reservoir. If issues persist, consider bleeding the brake system following the provided instructions. -
Q: What should I do if I encounter resistance when resetting the slave piston?
A: Avoid forcing the piston back. Check for any obstructions or jams before attempting again. Contact service if needed.
PICCOLA + C21
Manual
- Initial installation, maintenance and service warranty 2018
- Disc brake PICCOLA with two-piston caliper
- C21
- About This Manual
- We are pleased that you have chosen a PICCOLA-brake, and hope you enjoy on your favorite trails. but before you go to the site, please read this manual thoroughly.
- This manual will give you all the information necessary to perform the initial installation and routine maintenance and some repairs. Installation and maintenance of PICCOLA disc brakes are for the most part without Special tools feasible.
DANGER: Work on hydraulic brakes require particularly intensive knowledge and experience. If you are not in a single step to be sure you need the right tools or other equipment, enter the brake necessarily in the hands of a qualified workshop. In the case of improper work on our brakes, we disclaim any liability.
Regular check for your safety
-
Note
-
When removed wheel or remote brake pads, the brake may not be actuated, otherwise the brake piston to closely make the brake disc and can not be mounted. In the extreme case, the slave piston can come out of the caliper housing so far that the oil outlet and inlet air. In this case, the brake should be returned to service Trickstuff.
-
Too far extended slave piston with a flat hardwood (if necessary with a flat screwdriver) to push back. Make sure that the force is applied evenly on the pistons so that they do not tilt. A piston pushed back diagonally, the piston seal can be damaged, resulting in the brake result in failure. The pistons must be reset without much effort. Is high, the resistance when pushing back the piston, do not force it but check if a piston is jammed and possibly start again.
-
If the level in the brake system is too high, it may happen that the slave piston not fully push back to let. In this case the Bleed screw on the caliper loose ( Not remove entirely!
-
Drain) and excess brake oil. Close locking screw air free! To clean the brake plenty of warm tap water with detergent and a dry cloth. Do not use brake cleaner – this can damage the seals of the braking system. Disc and pads clean generally during braking itself from normal dirt such as mud.
eighth with mounted brake pads that the pads do not come into contact with the pushing back with oil or fat: -
Be careful when handling brake oil (and other lubricating fund items). Are disc or pads stained with brake oil, this interferes with the action of the brake considerably. In general, the brake pads are unusable by contact with brake oil and must be replaced. An oil film on the wafer can be washed off with plenty of water and detergent or with acetone.
Handling of brake oil
- When handling with brake oil goggles and gloves. Contact with the eyes can cause eye irritation. In contact with eyes, rinse several minutes with running water and seek medical advice.
- Use protective gloves. Skin irritation and discomfort may be caused. In contact with skin, wash the fluid with soap and running water. Join irritation on, consult a doctor.
- Do not drink! Poisoning! vomit swallowed brake oil immediately and consult a doctor. The Bitonal used by Trickstuff in the original equipment is less harmful, but should be handled with care nonetheless.
- Keep brake fluid out of reach of children.
- Take care when using oil containers. Keep them in a suitable place.
Disposal of old and second-hand brake oil
Keep yourself in the disposal of brake oil to regulations and laws. Brake
oil must not enter the sewage system or into natural waters!
Be careful when turning the bicycle
- In the expansion tank of the brake handle can in rare cases with incomplete venting of the brake system or prolonged use Air bubbles. Turning over of the bicycle (for example, for disassembly of the wheels), these air bubbles from the surge tank in the get high-pressure area of the hydraulic system and affect the function of the brake. Therefore, check after the bike was reversed by repeatedly pressing the brake lever, the function of the brakes. If not appeal the brakes normally, they must be made to work as follows:
- If the response to actuation of the lever is bad (soft pressure point):
- Set (see figure in the “Adding brake fluid and bleeding”), the expansion tank, however, is the bike on the back wheel and hit a handlebar, so that the master piston has obliquely upwards about it, and press the brake lever a few times slowly so the bubbles return to the reservoir ( “quick release”). It is recommended then to bleed the brake at rest completely to remove the air bubbles from the container.
- If the response does not improve, the brake must be vented properly in any case (see section “Adding brake fluid and bleeding”).
installation
- Note: Install disc brakes only with the appropriate components! Be careful with lightweight forks. Not every fork can withstand the high loads by a disc brake in the long run. We recommend the use of spoke wheels with 32 steel spokes spoked 3-cross, and special disc rims. Radially spoked wheels are not permitted! Use for mounting only high quality, just-fit tool!
Mounting the brake disc
Tools: Torx TX 25 (or, depending on the type of screw, Torx TX 20), screw
locking “low strength”
-
Align the disc to the hub flange and insert the supplied M5 Torx screws. The disc must be mounted so that the webs are loaded in compression (arrow on the brake disc note).
-
Use new bolts with thread lock for assembly. If the screws are mounted without security, there is a risk that they dissolve in operation.
-
Tighten the disc fastening screws crosswise. Use the correct mounting an adjustable torque wrench.
Tightening torque: 6 Nm. -
Note on using the Trickstuff aluminum brake disc screw: These screws may only 140-, 160- and 180-are MillimeterBremscheiben used. In 180 discs at most three aluminum screws should be used together with three steel or titanium screws. The Trickstuff aluminum screws have TX20 drive (not TX25). Place the aluminum screws dry (without glue screws, no fat) and tighten them carefully and symmetrically with 4 Nm firmly.
Installation of the brake master cylinder on the handlebar
Tools: Allen wrench 2.5 (using shift lever interfaces may hexagon 3 mm)
Piccola brake pumps are provided for the assembly of handlebars with 22.2 mm
diameter in the clamping area. Soft, the dimensions of the handlebar heavily
on these measurements, this can lead to problems with the clamping of the
brake levers. The installation of PICCOLA brake pumps only handlebars with
22.2 mm + 0.05 / – 0.07 mm in diameter allowed in the clamping area!
If your handlebars should have undersized, the optional genuine Yamaha
Frässchellen help.
-
Remove handlebar end plugs and grips.
Second Open the clamping of the brake lever just enough that the lever can be pushed over the handlebars slightly. Loosen, the Schellen clamping screw. Align the brake pump like this that the brake lever with the index (and, possibly, middle finger) easily accessible from your normal grip position. Make sure that the brake lever does not interfere with the operation of the shift lever. PICCOLA brake pumps are compatible with most of the major manufacturers shifters (Shimano, SRAM). -
Danger: The PICCOLA brake pump is not compatible with twist shifter handles!
-
Pull the lever aligned only to the extent that the brake handles do not move the clamping screw at normal operating out of position. but the handles should not sit absolutely “fixed” so that they can escape in the event of a fall and will not be irreparably damaged (the same applies the way, for the gear lever). The clamping of the PICCOLA brake pump is designed so that the clamping bolt must be lightly applied to the handle to clamp on the handlebars.
Attention! Enter a small drop of medium strength screw adhesive on the thread of the clip screw, so that they do not loosen during driving. This is especially when using a shift lever interfaces (for direct mounting of the shift lever on the brake pump) useful because the introduced from below the clamp bolt then can be reached only after disassembly of the interface. -
Make the reach of the levers so that you can easily reach the levers of your normal grip position with your / s brake finger / s. to turn the 2-millimeter Innnensechskant adjustment screw on the brake lever until the lever is in a comfortable position for you.
Attention! Adjust the handlebars, you can perform a full brake levers still without the lever on the handlebar trigger.
Mounting the Caliper
- Tools: “low strength” Allen wrench 5 / screw lock
- The PICCOLA brake is available as a post mount version and as flat mount version. This manual only describes the installation of a post mount brake.
Make sure to use only with the brake included stainless steel screws and steel screws similar quality and strength.
- Insert the wheels with the brake discs installed in the frame and fork. Make sure that the wheels, fit exactly in the dropouts so that they do not change their position in the company.
- Place the brake caliper with brake pads mounted externally on the disc and align it with the mounting points on the frame, fork or adapter you.
- Select the appropriate mounting screws. In the delivery screws are included with 16 and 20 millimeters in length. Always place a washer under the screw head (rounded side facing the brake caliper)!
- Tighten the screws firmly. When mounting Screw locking “medium strength” (Loctite 243). Tightening torque 6 Nm
Assembly and shortening the brake line
- Tools: Allen key 3 mm
- PICCOLA brakes are supplied on request with cut to length according to customer specifications brake lines.
- The pipes are provided with screw-ring fittings.
- Tighten the banjo bolts emotional and just as strongly that they are tight and not loosen.
- Danger: The hollow screws are made of aluminum. Be sure to use precisely fitting tool!
- Danger: The ring fittings are asymmetrical – the hollow screw may only be inserted from the recessed side; the both sides fixed O-rings have different diameters!
- After shortening the brake line or after the new assembly, the hydraulic system must be re-vented. If you want to cut the line or open in order to thread through the frame, proceed as directed
- and
- in front.
- Both guides are under http://www.trickstuff.de/de/manuals/index.php for PDF Download available.
Replenishing brake fluid and bleeding
Tools : Allen wrench 2.5 or 3 / Torx TX10 / Bleed
-
Use only Trickstuff “Bionol”, never DOT 4, DOT 5.1 or Trickstuff Ferodo “Super Formula”!
-
Fix the bike in a bike racks. Making sure that the bicycle like that the brake levers sit on the highest point of the bicycle.
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Dismantle the impeller.
-
Loosen the brake lever clamp and adjust brake pump into a nearly vertical upward-facing position. It is important that the brake pump is in this position!
-
5. the Trickstuff “BBB tool” Press or a flat, absolutely fat-free screw with mounted brake linings, the pistons all the way back into the caliper. then disassemble the brake pads to prevent that they are contaminated with brake oil.
-
6th Important: Now put a Bleedblock one!
-
Preparation of the two syringes: Assemble two syringes with hose and M5 nipple. Pull both syringes approximately halfway air-free with on brake oil.
-
Dismantle the caliper and swing it 90 degrees so that the vent hole facing up. Remove the vent screw on the inside of the caliper (in hex the upper Jochschraube). Then fill the vent hole with a small drop brake oil to the brim and screw in half-filled syringe without air enters.
-
Remove. Bleeder screw on the brake pump and screw the half-filled syringe with the M5 nipple Possibly. so far reduced lever length of the lever that the nipple can be turned in completely and does not conflict be hexagonal with the lever. Repeatedly press the brake lever slightly. In the brake lever reach possibly the master piston adherent air bubbles in the reservoir. From then do not press the brake lever!
-
Carefully press the brake oil to the lower syringe until the bottom syringe is almost empty (at the caliper) up (brake lever). Holding down both syringes possible upward to emerging air bubbles can be trapped in the syringes and will not be pushed back into the system. Now inflate the liquid from the top down again until the upper syringe almost is empty. Suck jerk at the brake caliper side syringe may Air contained in the brake caliper pull it out.
-
Once leak no more air bubbles, remove the syringe from the brake pump and refit the bleed screw. Do not forget the sealing ring and ensure that creeps under the screw no air bubbles (if necessary, you can press again from the bottom up to ensure that no air is below the vent screw a little liquid). Tighten the bleed screw prudently ( Torque: 1 Nm). Take poured forth brake oil with a paper towel.
-
Remove the syringe from the caliper (vent hole should be back up!), Give again a drop of fluid into the open hole and then screw in the plug. Important: This must be no air get under the screw!
Tightening torque : 2 Nm -
Check whether a defined pressure point is established. If not, repeat the procedure.
Clean 14 system. -
Install the caliper, the brake pads and the wheel.
-
Take the bike from the work stand and check the brake system to normal functioning. Check that no leaks are present, in which brake oil leakage.
-
The bicycle, especially the brake system, again with plenty of warm water and detergent, rinse.
-
Setting the caliper drag free.
Replacement of brake oil
- We recommend an occasional replacement of brake oil. Use only Trickstuff “Bionol” ( also possible, but less good: mineral oil, for example from Magura, Shimano), never DOT 4, DOT 5.1 or Trickstuff Ferodo “Super Formula”.
- Proceed here as described during venting of the brake. Keep yourself in the disposal of brake oil to the regulations and laws. Brake oil must not enter the sewage system or into natural waters!
Replacing the brake pads
- Tools: Allen wrench 2.5 / BBB tool
- Danger: Never drive down to the backing plate from your brake pads. The friction material of the pads should always have a minimum thickness of 0.5 mm for safety reasons.
- Regularly check the condition of your brake pads! Once the pads below the minimum thickness, have to they are replaced.
- Note: All PICCOLA disc brakes with the brake pads wear progresses are automatically adjusted. The slave piston move it out of the caliper housing. For this reason, the pistons must be pushed back into the housing before replacing the brake pads so that the new, thicker coatings can be accommodated.
- Leave the old pads initially in the caliper and push the slave piston careful with the BBB Tool Tool (alternatively, when removed wheel, using a flat screwdriver) all the way back. Make sure that the force is applied evenly on the plunger so that it does not jam. A piston pushed back diagonally, the piston seal can be damaged, resulting in the brake result in failure. The pistons must be reset without much effort. Is high, the resistance when pushing back the piston, do not force it but check if a piston is jammed, and possibly start again. If the level in the brake system is too high, the pistons can not completely push back. In this case, the bleed screw on the caliper Loosen (do not open! ) And brake drain the oil. absorb oil with a kitchen towel, vent screw seal (2 Nm)
- Now remove the safety clip and the pad retaining screw and pull the worn pads and spring up out of the lining shaft.
- Insert the new pads with the spring in the lining shaft and secure it to the lining locking screw. not bring coverings with grease or oil in contact.
- Pull After the replacement of the linings to the brake lever several times, until a point of pressure is established. Setting the caliper again, if necessary grinding free.
- Check the normal function of the brake system.
- In order to achieve an optimum braking effect of the new coverings, they must cautiously with 30 brake applications from 30 kph km / h slowed to 10 km / h!
Service
The service part is intended Them in service and repair of PICCOLA-Disc brakes
help. Read the instructions carefully and keep in repair the procedures
described processes. Repairs to the hydraulic system should be carried out by
qualified bicycle mechanics with appropriate equipment so as not to endanger
the safety of the driver.
Troubleshooting
problem Possible Cause | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Wheel grinds on the brake lining | Caliper not aligned in the center |
Align the caliper such that the disk passes centrally through the coverings
wobbles disc or bent| | For deviations up to max. 0.3 mm: direct disc
BBB tool. Otherwise: removal of the windshield
Soft pressure point| Air bubbles in the system| pressure release
| Leak in the hydraulic system| Check hydraulic system for leaks and
optionally the component (Refer to “fluid loss” below)
| disc bent| direct replacement of the disc or BBB-Tool
| Unevenly worn brake pads| Replacing the brake pads
| Linings excessively worn, thus far adjusted brake pistons| Pistons push
back, renew coverings
| Brake disk is radially inclined between the brake pads| Brake disc is
“shielded”. Possible cause: warped Bremscheibenaufnahme to the hub => new
boss! Caliper base to fork or frame-milling not square => Sockets
| |
| Brake disc is inclined in the longitudinal direction between the brake pads|
adjust caliper correctly
Pressure point moves in
constant train to the handlebars
| defective primary seal of the master piston| can replace primary seal
factory
---|---|---
| Scratches leak in the piston path r| placement of the pump housing of the
fitting
| screw in Kevlar line; Oil seeps into| the interlayer of the lifelines cut 2
cm and carefully re-tighten
dehydration Bleed screw| Caliper leaking| Bleed screw tighten. Possibly.
Insert new seal
| One of the ring connections leaking| Replace the O-rings on the ring
connection.
Note: The Ring ports used in the brake Piccola are asymmetrical the
hollow screw may only be inserted from the recessed side!
| leaking bleeder valve on the brake pump| Tighten the screw after careful.
Possibly. Insert new seal
| leaky secondary seal of the master piston| Sent brake and let Replace seals
in the master piston (Note – this work can only be carried out at the
factory!)
| Slave piston leak| Swap rectangular ring / e in the caliper
No or insufficient braking effect| coverings worn| Replacing the pads
| coverings glazed| roughening coatings on abrasive paper on a flat surface,
or replacement of the coverings
| oily or dirty coat / disc| Replacement of the coverings, cleaning of the
wafer with water / detergent, isopropyl alcohol or acetone
Loud noises| Coverings lie obliquely on the disk| Align the caliper
centered over the disk of
| oily pads / disc| Replacement of the coverings, cleaning of the wafer with
isopropyl alcohol or acetone. Determine the cause of the spill and eliminate!
---|---|---
| Caliper or disc or wheel is not fixed firmly enough| Tighten screws or quick
release
---|---|---
Brake Levers “rattles”| Storage has game| Replacing the ball bearings.
Check ball bearings press fit
| missing or defective lever wide lock ball below the lever joint screws|
Insert new nylon balls
Sluggish brake lever| Screw adhesive penetrated lever- ball bearing|
Install new ball bearings
| pressed tilted ball bearings| Remove ball bearings and replace it correctly
High operating forces, piston does not recover,| Swollen seals because
of improper liquid| Replacement of all seals in the hydraulic system.
(Danger
– this work can be carried out at the factory are running!)
Repair of the caliper / replacement of the seals
- Tools: Allen wrench 2.5 and SW 5 / Torx T10 / hex nut 10 mm / wooden stick / compressed air New parts needed:
- new slave piston seals ( “Quad Rings”)
- New O-ring for sealing the two caliper halves 8×1 NBR
Danger: This work will be carried out at the factory. No guarantee on
full functionality when executed by other!
Be careful when handling brake fluid. Wear safety goggles and gloves. Work in
a well ventilated workplace.
-
Dismantle brake caliper and brake handle of frame / fork or handlebars.
-
Remove the brake pads.
-
Slide about 4 mm thick, flat tool (eg wrench) as a stop for the piston longitudinally in the brake lining shaft. Press the brake piston by carefully “pumping” the brake lever to the outside.
4th Remove the brake line on the brake caliper. Be careful when doing with may outflowing brake oil. Pay attention to the two O-rings on the ring connection. -
Open the Jochverbindungsschrauben the caliper. Danger: The
Yoke bolts are made of titanium – be sure to use extremely precisely fitting tool! You now have a front (outer) and a rear (inner) caliper half. -
Remove the O-ring in the rear caliper half. When mounting the caliper later a new O-ring, even if the old seal has no visible damage.
-
Screw the bleed screw (Torx T10) out of the caliper half. Press the brake piston with compressed air from the two case halves.
-
Remove with a wooden stick (eg. As a toothpick) the rectangular rings from the grooves in the caliper half and dispose of them. Already built rectangular rings must not be used again! to expand the rectangular rings Do not use a metal tool to avoid damaging the surface of the caliper.
-
Clean all parts with isopropyl alcohol and blow the cleaned parts carefully with compressed air. Make sure that no residue, dirt, hair, etc. remain in the caliper or on the piston surfaces, otherwise the pistons may leak.
-
Begin the installation of the caliper so that you can easily wet the new rectangular rings with (new) brake oil before inserting it into the groove in the caliper. Spread a little oil to the groove in the caliper around.
-
Gently press the rectangular rings into the grooves in the caliper. Make sure that the rectangular rings in the groove do not twist and that it around well and deep enough to sit.
-
Insert the brake caliper halves so prior to the work surface with the openings facing the piston upwards. Fill the piston chambers with a small syringe brimming with brake oil.
-
Press the piston carefully into the piston bore. The flasks should be easy to push. Make sure that the force uniformity to the
Piston acts to prevent them from jamming and damage the seal. Is high, the resistance when pushing the piston, do not force it, but make sure that the piston is jammed and possibly start again. Press the plunger all the way into the cylinder bores. absorb overflowing brake oil with a dry cloth. -
Repeat the installation procedure for the second caliper half.
-
Place a new O-ring into the groove provided in the inner caliper half.
-
Screw the two caliper halves with the Jochverbindungsschrauben. Tightening torque 12 Nm
-
17th Mount the brake line. To do this, use new seals. Danger: The in PICCOLA brake ring used connections are asymmetric – the hollow screw may only be inserted from the two-stage recessed side.
-
Clean now the caliper and the line completely of brake oil. Use this warm water and detergent and wipe the cleaned parts with a dry cloth to carefully. Do not use brake cleaner because this may damage parts of the brake system!
-
Bleed the hydraulic system and check the function of the brake system.
Repair of brake pump / replace the seals
Tools: Torx T6 and T10 / angled snap ring pliers snap ring ø11 / compressed air
New parts needed:
- new complete master piston with pre-assembled seals – seals can not be mounted manually!
- new membrane
- new snap ring
Danger: This work will be carried out at the factory. No guarantee on
full functionality when executed by other!
Be careful when handling brake fluid. Wear safety goggles and gloves. Work in
a well ventilated workplace.
-
Dismantle brake caliper and brake pump frame / fork or handlebars.
-
Open the expansion tank by removing the small screw Torx T6 at the bottom of the reservoir cover and take down him. then remove the now visible membrane in reservoir. Use for removing any sharp-edged tools.
-
Vacuum with a small syringe, the brake oil from the reservoir. Collect the old brake oil in a suitable container and dispose of it later with environmental regulations.
-
Remove the brake line from the brake handle. Suck effluent brake oil with a dry cloth.
-
5th Remove the lever from the pump housing by all four black Lever pivot screw (Allen screw 3 mm) solution. Danger: These screws are made of aluminum and is factory glued. Be sure to use precisely fitting tool and work with tact!
-
Make straight up the brake lever.
-
Remove the Seeger ring pliers snap ring on the head side of the brake pump and then remove the ball bar with the attached Totwegscheibe.
-
Now the master piston by itself should come from the piston bore. Shine a flashlight into the piston bore, check the surface of the piston bore and the master piston. Are on the surface scratches or marks to see which parts need to be replaced. The piston seals should be replaced regularly!
-
Clean the pump body carefully and blow him with compressed air from you. Make sure that no residue, dirt, hair, etc. remain, otherwise the master piston could be leaking.
-
Set the new Membrane fit into the surge tank. Caution:
Diaphragm is rectangular, not square! Outward curvature! Put the reservoir cap fit onto the membrane without jamming the diaphragm, and secure it with the Torx T6 screw. Tighten the screw carefully on the block. -
Fill the piston bore brimming with brake oil. Patience – the oil sinks to the bottom and flows slowly into the reservoir. Again and again, slowly and little top up. If you work slowly and carefully here, the vent is even easier!
-
Place the return spring on the intended spike at the new, gasketed master piston. Press the plunger slowly and donors
carefully into the filled piston bore. Make sure that the master piston does not tilt so as not to damage the seals. Apply not force it – the master piston can be used in the piston bore normally with little force. absorb overflowing oil with a cloth. Make sure that the secondary chamber is filled with oil before they push the plunger completely. -
Replace the ball hitch with the ball head into the semi-spherical recess in the master piston. Thread the Totwegscheibe via the piston rod and secure the master piston with the new Seeger ring – important sharp edge of the snap ring outwardly! Check the snap ring to secure fit!
Fasten 11. finger lever with the four lever pivot bolts. White nylon lever wide blocking balls under the two screws do not to forget! Tightening torque 2 Nm. -
Install the brake line and bleed the hydraulic system. Then check the brake function.
Warranty Statement
For our brake systems we provide a continuous on the legal requirements, guaranteed for the period of 24 months (from date of purchase). If defects that affect the materials or workmanship of any part of the brake system is present within this period, the damaged part is by presentation of the original purchase documents repaired at the discretion of the Trickstuff GmbH or replaced. We strive to handle warranty claims within a period of 30 days from the receipt of the damaged component (either from an authorized dealer or directly from Trickstuff GmbH).
-
The warranty excludes: This warranty does not cover damages caused by accidents, Amendment and negligence are due. The warranty also does not apply to misuse and abuse in lack of execution of a mounted
Repairs in incorrect installation, at incorrectly executed or unauthorized
Repairs or not installed correctly of parts in use of parts or accessories that are not expressly approved by Trickstuff. Normal wear, fading of anodized colors and wear through the use of the bicycle are also not covered by this warranty. Furthermore, the warranty does not include any expenses that may arise from transporting or from an authorized dealer, or by the length of working to dismantle the brake system. Compensation for loss of use during the repair period -
Second Buyer: This warranty extends only to the original purchaser of the brake system granted and not third parties. The purchaser rights under this warranty may not be sold.
-
Third duration: This warranty is valid for the period of 24 months from the date of purchase and ends the end of this period.
-
4th Completion: If a covered by this warranty damage to your brake system is determined immediately consult an authorized dealer or directly to Trickstuff GmbH. The warranty is void if the buyer continues to use the brakes despite a clearly recognizable damage.
-
5th damage: Unless specifically required by this guarantee, which can Trickstuff GmbH under this warranty consequential be held responsible if the complaint is justified by other contracts, wrongful acts or other remedies for any indirect or. The warranty statements above are only valid and replace all other remedies.
-
6th Note: Keep up during installation, maintenance and repair always adhere to the Information in the manual for your PICCOLA brake system.
Danger:
If you suspect that a covered by the warranty damage is present in your brake
system, you immediately contact an authorized dealer or directly to the
Trickstuff GmbH. We ask for a detailed description of the problem or the
detected damage. When a suspected or identified damage the brake system must
not be used!
- February 2018
- Trickstuff GmbH
- Schwabenmatten 17 A
- 79292 Pfaffenweiler
- Tel .: + 49- (0) 761-707 41 92
- info@trickstuff.de
- www.trickstuff.de
References
- Trickstuff | Slow Down Faster | Bremskraft made in Germany
- Trickstuff | Slow Down Faster | Bremskraft made in Germany
- Trickstuff | Slow Down Faster | Bremskraft made in Germany
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