CRAFTABREW Gallon Glass Carboy Fermenter Jugs User Guide
- June 4, 2024
- CRAFTABREW
Table of Contents
CRAFTABREW Gallon Glass Carboy Fermenter Jugs
WHAT’S INCLUDED
- A 1 GALLON GLASS CARBOY
- B AIRLOCK
- C RUBBER STOPPER
- D RACKING CANE + TIP
- E TRANSFER TUBING + CLAMP
- F FUNNEL
- G YEAST
- H YEAST NUTRIENT (2 PACKETS)
- I SANITIZER
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
- ABOUT TEN 12 OZ SWING-TOP BOTTLES (OR OUR MEAD BOTTLING KIT)
- 2.5 LB OF HONEY
- 1 GALLON OF SPRING WATER
SANITATION
Proper sanitation is the most important step of the mead-making process. Yeast is the only organism you want coming in contact with your mead. Any other bacteria can quickly spread, making the mead undrinkable. The sanitizer packet included with this kit contains enough solution for both step 1 and step 14. You’ll use only HALF of the packet each time you sanitize equipment, mixing the powder with 1 gallon of tap water. Equipment does not need to be rinsed after soaking in this sanitizing solution. Simply let components dry on fresh paper towels.
INGREDIENTS
Mead is a complex beverage made from simple ingredients: honey, yeast & water.
With this kit, you’ll be crafting a still (not sparkling), semi-dry mead.
Honey
You will need to source 2.5 lb of your preferred honey. Its flavor profile will
be the foundation of your mead, so feel free to use any variety – orange
blossom, clover, wildflower, you name it!
More information about honey selection is on page 6.
Yeast
Yeast is a living organism (technically a fungus) that converts sugar from
honey into alcohol, releasing CO2 in the process. The yeast strain in this kit
leaves some residual sweetness and honey aroma in the finished product.
Yeast Nutrients
These additives keep the yeast healthy throughout fermentation. Honey isn’t as
naturally nutrient-dense as other fermentable sugars, like beer malts or wine
grapes, so you’ll have to add some nutrients.
Water
Besides honey, the water’s the foundation of your mead. For best results use
spring water. If your tap water is filtered, safe to drink, and tastes fine,
then it can be used to make mead.
FERMENTATION
Day 1 – Making the Must
- Sanitize your carboy, stopper, airlock & funnel by dissolving HALF the sanitizer packet in 1 gallon of tap water in a large pitcher or bucket. Reserve the other half for bottling day. Soak equipment for at least 60 seconds in the sanitizing solution and let dry on fresh paper towels (no need to rinse).
- Gather 2.5 lb of honey and 1 gallon of spring water. Pour only HALF a gallon of water into the sanitized jug using the funnel.
- Pour about 1/3 of the honey into the carboy and plug the top with the sanitized stopper, covering the hole with your clean thumb. Swirl and shake until the honey is completely dissolved. Continue to add the rest of the honey 1/3 at a time, shaking to dissolve each time. You now have “must” – a winemaker’s term for unfermented wine.
- Before adding more spring water, add the entire packet of DAY 1 yeast nutrients to the carboy and shake to dissolve. The other packet of yeast nutrients will be used on day 2 & day 5 of fermentation.
- Now, add spring water to the carboy until you reach the ‘one gallon’ fill line (just above the raised letters on the carboy). Place the stopper back in, cover the hole and shake for a full minute. This gives the yeast plenty of oxygen to begin fermentation. Cut open the yeast packet and add the contents to the carboy. Assemble and fill the airlock with water and gently insert it into the stopper – you don’t need to push hard. Place the stopper in the carboy – it will stick out a bit. Drying the stopper and inside lip of the carboy with a paper towel will help it stay in place.
- Set an alarm for 24 hours from now – that is when you’ll add the next dose of yeast nutrients. Your mead will need a cool, dark place to ferment for the next 30 days. The ideal fermentation temperature range is between 65°-73°F.
Day 2 – Degassing Part 1
After a full 24 hours of fermentation, you will need to “de-gas” your mead to
release CO2 buildup and prepare it for the next dose of yeast nutrients. These
next few steps can create a geyser of foam if you don’t work SLOWLY and in
small increments. We advise reviewing steps 7-9 before you begin.
- Remove the airlock and begin degassing your mead by slowly swirling the sealed jug, holding the stopper in place. Start gently and stop as needed to allow the foam to dissipate. Once the foam subsides, begin to swirl more vigorously for at least 2 minutes. This process helps release built-up CO2 and keeps yeast healthy.
- Once your mead is degassed, pour HALF of the DAY 2/DAY 5 yeast nutrients into a small bowl. Reserve the other half for step
- Remove the rubber stopper. Scoop out about 1/4 of the yeast nutrients from your bowl and VERY SLOWLY sprinkle into the carboy. Mead will immediately begin to foam – swirl the carboy to help it dissipate. Once the foam subsides, continue adding the rest of the DAY 2 yeast nutrients in TINY increments. This process may take 5+ minutes.
- Wait until foaming stops. Seal your carboy with the stopper and swirl again for 30 seconds to mix the nutrients into the mead.
- Place the airlock back into the stopper and let your mead continue to ferment. Mark your calendar for 3 days from now -you’ll degas and add more nutrients at that time.
Day 5 – Degassing Part 2
- Repeat steps 7 – 9 to degas and add the remaining HALF of the DAY 2/DAY 5 yeast nutrients. Remember to work slowly and in small increments to prevent an overflow.
- Let your mead continue fermenting for the next 25 days. Be sure to keep the carboy between 65°-73°F. While your mead is ready to bottle after 30 days of fermentation, the longer you age it the more the flavors will continue to develop. So, feel free to let your mead age for a few weeks longer in the carboy!
Day 6-20 – Optional Degassing
We recommend degassing your mead during this stage of fermentation to
ensure that the finished product is crystal clear and free of unwanted
carbonation. Degassing keeps yeast productive, which improves the flavor of
your finished mead. To degas, swirl and shake the carboy every few days for 2
full minutes, stopping as needed to let foam subside. If you prefer, you can
do this just once on day 20 of fermentation (or 10 days before you plan to
bottle). Your mead will need to sit undisturbed for 10 days before bottling.
BOTTLING
Day 30 – Bo˜ling Day
We recommend using ten 12oz swing-top bottles (like Grolsch beer bottles) to
store and age your mead. You can purchase 2 six packs and use the empties. Or
you can use our Mead Bottling Kit. You’ll use a siphon technique to transfer
mead from the carboy into your bottles. This is used in order to avoid
stirring up any sediment and to avoid oxidizing your liquid gold. We suggest
practicing siphoning with water before bottling day in order to perfect your
technique.
Review our bottling how-to video by scanning the QR code on the back of this manual
- Mix the remaining half of your sanitizer packet with 1 gallon of tap water to sanitize your bottling day equipment: bottles, transfer tubing, tube clamp, racking cane and funnel. Soak all components for 60 seconds to sanitize, making sure to completely submerge or fill bottles with sanitizing solution. Let everything dry on fresh paper towels.
- You will now siphon your mead from the carboy into bottles. To do this, you’ll need a large bowl of fresh, clean water. Attach the tube clamp to one end of the tubing. With the clamp open, submerge the tubing in the bowl of water. Let the tubing completely fill with liquid and top off using the faucet if necessary. Close the clamp and attach the unclamped end to the racking cane. This is your siphon starter.
- Place your carboy on a high surface (like a tabletop or chair) and place your bottles as low as possible (on the floor). Gravity and distance are essential to start and maintain a siphon. Remove the airlock and stopper and insert the racking cane into the carboy, making sure the end doesn’t suck up any sediment. Hold the clamped end of your tubing low to the ground and over a bowl. Unclamp to release the water from the tube, which will start the flow of mead. Once mead starts to freely flow from the tubing, clamp the tubing shut and set the bowl aside.
- Using the clamp to start and stop the flow of mead, fill each bottle and stop when the mead reaches the base of the bottleneck. Repeat and seal each bottle.
- Store your bottled mead in a dark, room temperature place and out of direct sunlight. While it is ready to drink on bottling day, your mead’s flavors really shine when aged longer. Flavors will continue to mature and develop, so set a few bottles aside for a tasting in a few months (or years).
CHOOSING YOUR HONEY
Honey is named for the flower the nectar was collected from (thanks to bees)! We recommend using 100% natural honey for the best results. Here’s what you can expect from a few of our favorite varieties:
CLOVER:
classic & widely available, this honey is sweet with a gentle tangy
aftertaste.
ORANGE BLOSSOM:
floral, fruity & citrusy. This variety is best sourced from a reputable
supplier or local farm, as it can often be artificially flavored.
BUCKWHEAT:
dark, strong, earthy & slightly spicy. Best used in combination with another
variety of honey for balance.
TUPLEO:
floral, often sweeter & more “buttery” than other honey varieties.
WILDFLOWER:
flavors vary in each region & season. This is the name given to honey made from
the nectar of multiple flowers (or when the bees’ diet is unknown). No two
batches are alike.
MEADOWFOAM:
tastes like toasted marshmallows and smells like vanilla. Need we say more?
RECIPE VARIATIONS
Mead is delicious on its own, but you can experiment with fruit, spices, and other ingredients for a truly unique creation.
CYSER:
A mead fermented with apples is called a Cyser. To make a Cyser, follow our
instruction manual – just use apple juice or cider instead of spring water.
Juice adds fermentable sugar (& 5% ABV) to your mead, so your mead will need
to ferment for an additional month before bottling. Use preservative-free
juice (NO Potassium Sorbate). To make a spiced Cyser, add a cinnamon stick to
the carboy in the last week of fermentation.
MELOMEL:
A mead fermented with fruit is called a Melomel. To make a Melomel, add 1 – 2
lb of fruit to the carboy after 2 weeks of fermentation. This prevents fruit
flavors from being fermented out. Fruit should be pureed, strained, then boiled
for 5 minutes. Let it completely cool before adding to the carboy. This
reduces the risk of contamination from wild yeast on fruit skins. Be sure to
reduce your spring water volume accordingly on DAY 1 to leave enough room for
added fruit. Allow the mead to age on the fruit for 3+ weeks before bottling.