PFAFF 259 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

259 Sewing Machine
Instruction Manual

FOREWORD

Your dream has come true! .
You are now the proud owner of a PFAFF 259—the sewing machine with countless creative possibilities.
This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fun for you.
Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing.
Follow these simple instructions and familiarize yourself with the exctusive features of your machine. You will find sewing exciting
on your easy-to-operate PFAFF 259.
If you have any sewing problems, please contact your Pfaff deaier. He will be glad to heip you at any time.

Pfaff International Corporation
New York, N.Y.

Essential Parts of Machine

1 Thread take-up lever
2 Thread retainer stud 1/4
3 Zigzag finger-tip control
4 Bobbin winder
5 Stop motion knob
6 Stitch length dial| 7 Reverse feed control
8 Light switch
9 Drop feed control
10 Needle plate
11 Transverse rotary hook
12 Bed slide| 13 Needle
14 Automatic needle threader
15 Needle thread tension
16 Sewlight
17 Stitch width dial
18 Needle position lever
---|---|---

19 Balance wheel
20 Collapsible spool pins
21 Top cover
22 Needle threader control| 23 Face cover
24 Presser bar lifter
25 Sewing foot thumb screw
26 Sewing foot| 27 Needle set screw
28 Bed plate
29 Space for built-in motor
30 Double receptacle for speed control and power cords
---|---|---

Fundamentals of Machine Operation

Make sure stop motion knob b is tightened before you begin sewing (clockwise as indicated by white arrow).
Whenever you have to turn balance wheel a, turn it toward you (counter- clockwise as shown by black arrow).

Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the presser foot.

The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot automatically. Ail you have to do is guide the work. Never try te hasten feeding by pushing or pulling the fabrie while stitching because the needle may bend or break.

Always turn the balance wheel toward you until take-up lever d is at its highest position before you begin and after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe this rule may cause the thread to slip out of the needle eye.
Also, it is easier to remove the work with the take-up lever up.

Electrical Information

Push plug 1 into receptacle 2, and plug 3 at other end of card into the wall outlet. The foot or knee control is permanently connected to the machine.

Knee Control
Press the right knee lightly against the knee control lever. The harder you press, the faster the machine will run.

Foot Control
Place the foot control under the cabinet within easy reach of your foot. Rest the right foot on the speed control and press. The harder you press, the faster the machine will run.

Straight Stitching

For straight-stitch sewing set:
Dial A —0
Lever B —

Dial G regulates the stitch tength {the higher the number on the dial, the longer the stitch), To backtack the end of a seam, simply depress the finger- tip control.

Zigzag Sewing

If you want to sew a few wide zigzag stitches while the machine is set for straight stitching (A on 0), merely press down the finger-tip control. When the lever is released, the machine resumes straight slitching automatically.
To sew longer zigzag seams, turn dial A to desired stitch width (indicated by numbers 1 to 4).
When dial A is set between ½ and 2, you can double the stitch width by depress ing the finger-tip control (important for making buttonholes and non-auto matic embroidery designs).

When you push the control up, the machine will sew straight, regardless of the stitch width set.
Lever B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot. Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the slot, as desired.

Dial G lengthens zigzag stitches or packs them more closely together (satin stitch).

Winding the Bobbin

1. Hold the balance wheel and turn stop motion knob b ail the way to the ieft (counter-clockwise).
2. Place spool of thread on right-hand spool pin, The bobbin thread should always be the same size as that used on the spool, or a littfe finer.
3. Pull thread from spoo! and lead it clockwise around thread retainer stud g, crossing the thread.
4. Pass end of thread through slat in bobbin, from inside. Set bobbin on bobbin winder spindle so that key at base of spindle enters slot in bobbin. Press in lever i.
5. Hold end of thread and start machine. Having wound a few turns, break off end of thread and continve winding.
6. Bobbin winder will stop automatically when bobbin is full. ,
7. If you don’t want a full bobbin, press out lever i when sufficient amount of thread has been wound.

Removing the Bobbin Case

Raise needle to its highest point and open bed slide, so you can see sewing hook.
Reach under the machine with your left hand and lift latch k with your forefinger. Pull out bobbin case with bobbin by holding the latch. When you release latch t the empty bobbin drops out.

Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case

1. As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you, and insert bobbin into bobbin case.
2. Hold the bobbin firmty in the bobbin case ond pull the thread into the case slot.
3. Pull the thread under the tension spring unl it emerges from the opening at the end of the spring. Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case.
4. Hold the case by its open latch, so that the bobbin cannot fall out.

Inserting the Bobbin Case

It is best to tilt machine back when inserting bobbin case the first time. After you have become more practiced, you will manage without tilting it. Move bed slide all the way to the left, Make sure the needie is still at its highest paint.
With the thumb and forefinger of left hand, lift latch k and turn bobbin case until slot at end of latch points up (see arrow). Then place it on center stud s of hook.

In replacing the bobbin case, it is best to hold the loose end of thread so that it will not get jammed between bobbin case and hook. Release latch k and press against bobbin case until you hear it snap into place. An improperly inserted bobbin case will cause needle breakage.

Fine Fabrics
such as georgette, chiffon, batiste, voile, lawn, silk.| 80 to 100| 0 to 000 twist| 60 or 70
Lightweight Fabrics
such as dress silks and cottons, sheer woolens, shirting, dra- Aeries.| 70 to 80| A & B
twist| 80
Medium Fabrics
such as lightweight woolens,madras, muslin, brocades, heavysilks and rayon, gabardine.| 50 to 70| B & C twist| 90
Heavy Fabrics
such as coating, denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed tickings, lightweight canvas.| 40 to 50| C & D twist| 100
Very Heavy Fabrics
such as heavy tickings. canvas,overcoating, sailcloth, up- holstery.| 24 to 40| E twist| 90 to 110
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon, orlon, dacron, plastics, etc.| Determined by weight of fabric 40 to 50| Determined by thread size 60 to 80

Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes

The appearance of the finished seam is dependent on the correct relationship between needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart. The same size threads should be used in the needle and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. However, the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the needle thread.
On PFAFE 259 sewing machines, System 130 R, flat-shank needles ore used for all ordinary sewing ond embroidery work. The needle system is stamped on the bed slide. Genuine Pfoff needles, System 130 8, are availiable from every Pfaff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should not be used.

Changing the Needle

Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
Loosen needle set screw 0 half a turn and pull old needle out of needle clamp.
Insert new needle Into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back and long groove toward you. Tighten needle set screw 0.

Upper Threading

Place spool of thread on spool pin 3 and lead thread end through both thread retainer openings & (see illustration opposite).
Lead thread clockwise around tension and pull it between any two of the tension discs 5. Bring take-up lever 6 as high as it will go and pass thread from right to left through one of the holes af ifs end. Pull thread into slots at left of thread guides 7 and 8 and then into the slot at left of needle clamp 9.
Then thread needle, front to back. The automatic needle threader will do this for you easily and quickly.

Operating the Needle Threader

Before you begin, make sure that the needle is at its highest position, i.e. that the jower hole of the ascending take-up lever d is in line with the bottom edge of the top cover.

Now lawer the sewing foot and

1. With your left hand push needle threader control down until threader prong w (see opposite page) penetrates needle eye. Keep control in this position.
2. Hold thread loosely and iead it from left around the small pin, then place it behind hook of threader prong.
3. Release contro! slightly unfil prong w reverses and pulls thread through needie eye.
4. Jerk control down again so the thread loop will fail off the prang. Pull thread through needle eye and release control. . ,

When you have had sufficient needle threading practice, you may shorten the procedure as follows:
Push needle threader control down. Place thread behind hook of prong w so that its end is about ‘/2 inch to the right of the prong. Slowly re- lease control. Prong w now pulls end of the thread ~- instead of the loop —-— through needle eye.
Since take-up lever d is not at its highest point when you thread the needle, pull about four inches of thread through the needle eye before you begin sewing. .

Deawing Up the Bobbin Thzead

Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. Turn balance wheel toward you until the needle moves down and up again and take-up lever reaches its highest position. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin thread up through needle plate slot. Place both threads back under sewing toot before you put fabric into machine.

To check whether the tensions cre correctly balanced, take a closely woven piece of fabric and sew a few straight and zigzag seams. If the straight stitches are tightly drawn in on both sides of the fabric (see seam sketch Il), the tensions are correct. The surest way to double-check this is by examining a rigzag seam. lf the zigzag seam is equally wide on surface and underside of the fabric, that is, if the threads are locked exactly at the zigs and zogs of the seam, the tension adjustment Is correct.

Cozzect “Tension Regulation .
Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. If your tension is correct, you will have perfect seams as skefched below (Ill).
Sketch 1 – The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric.
Cause: Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight.
Sketch Il – The threads interlock an the surface of the fabric.
Cause: Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.

Regulating the Thzead Lension

The bobbin thread tension rarely needs adjusting, except for embroidery when it should be a fittle tighter than for ordinary sewing. Adjustment is made by a small knuried screw on the bobbin case which can be turned with the thumb tip.
Turn it left for looser tension.
Turn it right for tighter tension.

Determine correct bobbin tension by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the bobbin case hang freely. The tension shouid be strong enough to keep the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down.

The final stitch appearance can be regulated by the upper tension dial, as follows:
Turn left for looser tension.
Turn right  for tighter tension.

The upper tension is so designed that all grades of ten- sion —- loose to tight — can be covered with one complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension. The higher the num- ber, the greater the tension. For  ordinary sewing, the upper fension should be set between 3 and 5.

Your upper tension has a third disc for two-needie work.

Stitch Length Regulation
Turn dial until the number indicating the desired stitch length is opposite the mark on the dial housing (see straight arrow). Or sew a few stitches and regulate stitch jength as required.
To facilitate satin stitching, the O—1 range on the scale is just as large as the 4-4 section. The setting depends on the type of fabric and thread size used.
for normal satin stitching, set dial on 0.2.

Reverse Sewing
To backtack the beginning or end of a seam, simply press the finger-tip control down, When the control is released, the machine resumes forward sewing automatically. This feature is Ideat for darning rips with the ordinary sewing foot.
To do this, operate the control in rhythm and move the fabric slightly sideways.
In this way, one seam is placed neatly beside the other.
The reverse stitches will be about the same length as forward stitches. ,

Dropping the Machine Feed
The machine feed is dropped for darning, hoop embroidery and button sewing.

1. To lower feed below the needle plate, turn drop feed control v clock wise. Fabric will cease feeding.
2. When control v is turned to the right as far as it will go, feeding of the fabric resumes automatically when you start sewing.

‘The Darning ‘Foot
Remove the sewing foot. Attach darning foot from the rear. Hold spring clip m so that it is behind the needle ciemp screw, and tighten screw ¢. Attoch darning hook d as illustrated so that when you lower presser bar lifter e, the darning foot will stay in position. Remember to lower presser bar lifter e so that the upper tension is activated.

Changing the Sewing ‘Foot
Lift both needle and presser bars to their highest positions and turn the sewing foot thumb screw to the left. Till the foot sideways and pull it down. Slipon new foot and tighten the screw securely.

Care and Maintenance

Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regular and proper cleaning and oiling.
Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only, Never lubricate machine with animal or vegetable oils, Remove al lint before oiling.
All moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication. It is advisable to establish a pattern when oiling your machine. Begin under the bedplate. The principat oiling points are marked by arrows.

The raceway in fhe sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put one drop of oil inte the raceway each day you sew. A dry raceway will cause rapid wear. Don’t forget to oil the bearings and bevel gears of the short hook shaft, :

The oiling points in the machine arm can be reached easily by removing the top cover. Oll should be applied sparingly. Excessive quantities of oi! may soil the work and cause machine stuggishness. One or two drops of oil usually will suffice.
To pull cover up, tilt it back and lift.

Regulae Machine Care
Accumulations of lint packed between the tooth rows of the feed cause noisy operation of the machine. Therefore, from time to time, remove the needle plate and clean the feed with a toothpick or similar wooden object.
The needle plate is held in place by a press stud and can be removed without a screwdriver. To do this, lift back end first and tilt out.

Tilt the machine back and take out bebbin case and bobbin. With a soft brush remove the lint which has accu- mulated in the vicinity of the sewing hook. Once in a while your PFAFF should be given a thorough  checkup by your Pfaff dealer.

Sewlight Facts

The 15-watt sewlight is recessed under the machine arm and can be swung out by pulling down the grille.
To change the light bulb: Push bulb into socket, turn left, and pull out, When inserting new PFAFF light bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into bayonet socket slots.
Press bulb in and turn right. Close grille. Note voltage of eleciric circuit.

Trouble Shooting

1. Machine Skips Stitches
Cause:
Needle incorrectly inserted.
Wrong needle. .
Needie bent.
Machine threaded improperly.
Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.
2. Needle Thread Breaks
“Cause:
The above mentioned may cause thread breakage.
Thread tension too fight.
Poor or knotty thread used.
Hook raceway is jammed with thread or needs oiling.
Burrs or sharp edges on needle piate slot.
Remedy:
Push needie up as far as it will go and be sure that the long groove faces toward you, and flat side of shank away from you.
The correct needle system is stamped on bed slide.
(For ordinary sewing, use System 130 R needies.}
Insert new needle.
Check and correct threading as instructed on pages 14 and 15.
Use correct needte and thread.
Remedy:
See remedies fisted under 1. above.
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Use good quality threads only.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth.

3. Needle Brecks
Cause:
Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook.
Needle too thin or thread too heavy.
Fabric pulls needie so it bends and strikes needle plate.
Babbin case inserted incorrectly.
4. Faulty Stitch Formation
Cause: .
Improper tension.
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard.
Bobbin unevenly wound.
Pieces of thread between tension discs.
5, Machine Feeds Improperly
Cause:
Feed dog set too low, does not rise up enough above needle piate level.
Accumulations of lint packed between feed teeth.
Remedy: ‘
Replace needle at once to prevent further damage.
Use correct needle and thread sizes.
Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly.
Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.
Remedy:
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Use only first-rate thread—the correct size for the needle and fabric.
Don’t run thread over finger when winding the bobbin, but lead it around thread retainer stud on top cover.
Raise presser bar litter and remove thread.
Remedy:
Have your Pfaff dealer make the necessary adjustment.
Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush.

6. Machine Works Heavily
Cause:
Motor belt has shrunk and causes excessive pressure on bearings.
Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by pieces of thread.
Mechanism clogged by inferior oii.
Bobbin winder working while sewing (when a bobbin is not being filled).
Remedy: ,
Have your Pfaff dealer adjust the belt tension.
Clean and oi! hook raceway.
Use only Pfaff sewing machine oi!—never salad oll or glycerine.
Stop bobbin winder.

Thread Jamming

The new PFAFF rotary hook will not normally jam, even it the machine should be handled improperly.
Ifthread should happen fo jam in the raceway of the sewing hook, the power of the motor will be sufficient to overcome hard working of the mechanism. / Thread jamming can be avoided, however, by following the instructions on page 4.

Zipper Insertion
Machine Setting:
A-0
B-
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper depends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zipper. Turn fabric to right side. Runa straight seam close to left edge of zipper, stitch across end and up the other side in one continuous operation. Use right edge of foot as 4 guide.
For other types of zipper insertion, follow directions in your zipper package.

Edge Stitching
Machine Setting:
A-O to 4 (optional)
B-
Sew parallel rows of straight or zigzag stitches at various distances {rom the fabric edge by using adjustable seam guide No. 53077 and the edge stitcher (without quilting gauge). The seam guide is fastened to the machine bed with the long thumb screw. For wider marginal stitching, turn edge guide haifa turn and use low end as a guide.

Quilting
Machine Setting:
A-O or 2 (optional)
B-
Edge stitcher No. 41350 used with the quilting gauge sews paraiiel rows of stitching over the entire surface of the fabric. Always guide the gauge finger along the preceding row of stitches.
Attractive tea cosies, slippers. seat pads and covers can be quilted.

Flat Felled Seams
Machine Setting: A-~Oor 2 (optional) – B-
Flat felled seams are used to durably join two pieces of fabric. They ore made in two operations.
Flat felled seams usually are straight-stitched. Narrow zigzag stitches cre used for felling on elasticized fabrics only.

First Seam
Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and the bottom piece protruding Ye inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot, as iNustrated, so that the boftorn fabric is folded over edge of top piece and stitched down. Make sure that protruding seam allowance is not foided twice.
Second Seam
Open the two pieces, place them under the needie right side up, insert seam ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left. Make sure that second seam is placed close to the edge but not beyond it.
The felling foot has a needie siot, rather than a needle hole, ta permit zigzag felling.

Rolled Hems
Mochine Setting: A-2to4 – B-
Rolled hems are used fo finish sheer or delicate fabrics.
For a smoath, unpuckered hem, ease thread tensian slightly and set dial A on 2 or 3. To hem tricot fabrics, increase the tension and use the widest zigzag stitch so the hem has o rolled shell effect.

Hemming
Machine Setting: A-0 or 2 to 4 (optional)
B-

The hemmer faot is indispensable if you want to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using. Clip off the corner of the fabric ta facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot. Feed fabric sa that the raw edge is in line with the left edge of the hemmer foot opening. If you feed less, the fabric will not be folded twice and the raw edge will show. Avaid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. To da this, press the fabric against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the end of the hem.

Overcasting Edges
Machine Setting: A-2to4 (optional) – B-
Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Use a long, wide zigzag stitch and sew edge with the needle taking one stitch inte the fabric and the other over its edge. You may overcast edges after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined.

Butt Seaming
Machine Setting: A-S3or4 – B-
Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted together and joined with zigzag stitches. Worn bed sheets may be mended this way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remaining pieces of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges are centered under the needle. Join them with close, wide zigzag stitches. Hem raw edges of sheet.

Attaching Lace
Machine Setting: A-1 te 3 (optional) – B-
You can attach lace edging in one simple operation.
Overlap lace on raw edge. Sew to fabric with narrow zigzag stitches, toking one stitch into loce and fabric and the other into lace only.

Inserting Lace
Machine Setting: A~1 to 3 (optional)
B-
Pin or baste lace on fabric. Sew together with needle taking one stitch into fabric alone and one into the lace. Carefully trim excess fabric underneath.

Inserting Patches
Machine Setting: A-2to 4 (optional) – B-
Lorge holes can be patched quickly. The following method may be used for jersey fabrics. Cut patch so that ifs grain will match the rest of the fabric. Place the patch over the damaged area. Sew it down with o wide zigzag stitch of medium length.

For additional strength stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim close fo seams.

Singie-Needle Cording
Machine Setting: A-2 : 8-
Set stitch length between ‘/2 and 1. Trace pattern on fabric and place a filler thread under the groove in the sole of the cording foot. Follow the pattern and hold the filler thread lightly.

Shirring
Machine Setting: A-~ 2 to 2″/2 (optional)
B-
Follew above directions for shirring, but ploce filler thread under rather than on top of the fabric. Fabric and filler thread both are guided in the groove of the foot.
Width of zigzag depends on thickness of filler thread used.
When you have finished the zigzag seam, slide material along the filler thread to distribute fullness. Finish the shirring witha line of straight stitching, Leave filler thread in the shirring or pull it out, piece by piece, as you straight-stitch, depending on the stress to which the shirring will pe exposed.

Applique Work
Machine Setting: A-1i’/zto3 – B- 4
Pin or baste applique on fabric and overcast edges. Appliques also can be attached with a satin stitch or any embroidery design.

Openwork Embroidery
Machine Setting: A-Qand 2/2 – B-
There are hundreds of patterns excellent for openwork embroidery. Although similar in appearance to applique, openwork embroidery is much simpler. Let’s embroider the 25-square box illustrated. First, sew over all traced lines twice, using short straight stitches. Then sew over straight-stitch lines with a medium-wide satin stitch. Make sure that your rows of satin stitching are even so the corners of your squares look neat.

When you finish sewing, cut out every other square. Be careful that you don’t injure the seams.
To make an attractive modern design, outline flowers or free forms with an embroidery design instead of satin stitching.

Making Stuffed Animals
Machine Setting: A-2’/2 –
Stuffed animals are wonderful toys for the little folk and they are so easy to make. Some scraps of material or oilcloth and a piece of cardboard is all you need for this elephant, for instance.
Outline pattern on material and cut out pieces without a seam allowance. Insert some cotton wadding into the ears before you fold and close them with a zigzag seam. Attach ears and join pieces by overcasting edges with a medium- wide satin stitch, leaving openings for the tusks. Set in tusks, glue on eyes and tack on tail. Stuff elephant with cotton, inserting wadding through open soles and tip of trunk. Close Openings with cardboard covered with oiicloth.

Scrotlwork
Machine Setting: A-2to4 (optional) – Bw-
Draw design on fabric, Clamp work into embroidery hoops. As you are following the scrollwork outline with a wide satin stitch, move hoops right, then left, alternating the rhythm and the direction of your movements. An exciting note may be added by using variegated thread.

Imitation Hemstitching
Machine Setting: A-2½ – Stitch Length: 1—1½
B- , Increase Tension
Beautiful hemstitching effects on handkerchiefs, blauses, dresses and so forth, can be made with Pfaff’s System 130 (wing) needle available at Pfaff stores at extra cost. Loosely woven fabrics, such as batiste, organdy, georgette, ete., are well suited fo hemstitching while woolly fabrics ore not recommended becouse needie penetrations close up. Since the hemstitching needle has a slightly thicker shank, the needle set screw must be turned out far enough for insertion. The hemstitching needle cannot be threaded with the automatic needle threader.

Hemstitching is very simple (see sketch). – .

1. Sew first row on the left of the area te be hemstitched.
2. Stop machine when needle is in fabric on the right.
3. Lift sewing foot, turn fabric in the direction of arrow, and lower foot again.
4. Sew second row, as shown in sketch, guiding material parallel to first row so that needle peneirates needle holes of previous zigzag stitches as it descends on the right. .
5. If you are making more than two lines of hemstitching. alternately leave needle is fabric on the left and right at turning points, pivot fabric on needle, and proceed as directed above.

Hemstitching
Hemstitching is successful on linen and twilled fabrics. For this type of work use an ordinary needle.
Draw several threads out of the fabric. Set machine for a medium-wide zigzag stitch and sew along both edges of the strip, making sure that “zigs” ond “zags” in both rows are exactly opposite each other. Set stitch length according to thread bar width you desire.
Draw threads from the edge until your fringe is the length you want. Zigzag along this line -— and you will have picot edging.

Blindstitching
Machine Setting: A-~1to2(optional) . B-
Stitch Length: Maximum

Hemming dresses and skirts by hand is a laborious task. You can do it easily or your PFAFF on medium and heavy fabrics. Use zigzag foot No. 51378 with blindstitch guide No. 46669, which you can buy at your Pfaff store. Attach the guide so that its vertical flange goes through the sewing foot slot. Use a No. 70 needle, a loose upper tension, and thin thread in the needle.
Next, follow this procedure:
Turn fabric wrong side up. Fald selvaged material once (Fig. 1), unselvaged fabric twice (Fig. 2). It is advisable to press or baste hem. Guide work evenly, holding top hem edge against vertical flange of blindstitch guide. Set dial A so that needle takes left stitch exactly in the folded edge and right stitch up to or over the hem edge. When hem is finished, stitches will not be visible on top side.

Sewing Buttonholes
Machine Setting: A-1½. B- ****
Stitch Length: 0.2
Attach buttonhole foot No. 51016 and sel slide on buttonhole gauge to buttonhole length desired. The buttonhole Is the right length when beginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow).
The basic machine settings need not be changed in sewing & buttonhole. All special settings are mode by simply pushing lever F up (for tying off) or down (for bartacking).

If you prefer more prominent buttonholes, pull a filler cord through the hole in left toe of foot. To get the correct stitch langth, sew on a piece of scrap material. In making buttonholes in soft or loosely woven fabrics, if ts advisable to place 2 piece of tissue paper under the material. To strengthen butonholes in tricot and knit fabrics. insert a piece of firmly woven cotion material between the fabric layers.

Instructions for Buttonholing

1. Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginning of seam reaches slide indicator on buttonhole gauge, it is the right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw.
2. Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using needle as a pivot. Lower foot, take one stitch to the left, pull fifler cord taut and lay it parallel to completed line of stitch- ing.
3. Press lever F down. Make 4 to 6 bartack stitches, slightly closing together buttonhole end to reduce length of bar.
4.  Release lever F. Trim filler cord at end of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop about 4 to 6 stitches from end of first row.
5. Press lever F down. Make second tack, as instructed above.
6. Push lever F up and make 3 ta 4 tying stitches.
7. Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper. Be careful not to injure the bartacks.

Button Sewing
Don’t be afraid to sew on buttons, hooks, eyes or rings with your PFAF F. Attach button sewing foot No. 46120 and drop machine feed.
Buttons with normal (5/32″) spacing between holes
Machine Setting: A-O – B- ,
Place button under button sewing foot and align so that needle will enter left hele. Let needle stitch through hole and stort machine, making two or three tying stitches. Press lever F all the way down and sew as many zigzag stitches as you deem necessary [to fasten button securely. Release lever F and again make two or three tying stitches.

When sewing on four-hote buttons, lift foot, reposition button and repeat the above process, stitching through the second pair of holes.
Hooks, eyes or rings are attached in the same manner.
Smailer buttons or snap fasteners with narrower spacing between holes
Machine Setting: B- ;
Place button under button sewing foot and lef needle stitch through left hole. Turn dial A to the right, usually to “3”, until needle is centered over right hole. Start machine and sew as many zigzag stitches as you think necessary. Push lever F up and make  two or three tying stitches.
Smaller four-hole buttons are attached as discussed above.

Darning
Machine Setting: A~O – B-
Prepare your machine for darning as follows:
Remove presser foot and drop machine feed. Use feed cover plate No. 41251 to increase tautness of fabric in hoops and permit free movement. To fasten the feed cover plate to the machine, slip its finger into the hole of the needle plate, as illustrated, turn, and fasten in position with bed stide (see iltustration below).

Attach darning foot as instructed on page 22, and suspend presser bar from the rear of the face cover with darning hook No. 46128. Even though the presser bar is suspended, the presser bar lifter must be lowered to activate the tension, or the upper thread tension will be released–and you cannot sew without it.
Place fabric into darning hoops.

Thin Spots
Remember that “a stitch in time saves nine” and reinforce spots that have worn thin with short sfitches made lengthwise and across worn section. Clamp fabric into darning hoops and move it freely under the needle.
Long rips may be darned with the normal sewing foot and without hoops. Raise machine feed and use forward-reverse stitch control.

Triangular Tears
Triangular tears are best darned by placing the torn section between hoops and making close stitches across and lengthwise. Move work under the needle with both hands. Small Holes
Darn small and medium-size holes by trimming ragged edges with the fabric grain, First stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at high speed. Then turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over preceding work with short stitches. This anchors threads in the unworn area around the hole.

Monogram Embroidery
Machine Setting: A- according to desired width – B-
Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the meoterial at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoops, the presser bar suspended and the presser bar lifter lowered. Drop machine feed. Lower needle into fabric at tne beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends and sew over outline, moving hoops slowly and evenly. To give your monogram dimensional quality, embroider outline twice. Be sure stitches are closely spaced.

Sewlng Monograms
Machine Setting: A-~2’/2to3 – B-
The procedure below ts primarily used for biock letters. Raise machine feed and set machine for satin stitch. Attach cord stitcher and sew outlines of monogram. Watch that seams do not overlap at joints of letters. To raise monogram, insert.a filler thread.
Ask your Pfaff dealer to show you PFAFF’s Ornamentegraph, the ingeniously designed monogram and ornamental stitch attachment. You will marvel at Hs versafiilty and delight in its countless creative possibilities.

Cording
To cord on your PFAFF 259, use Cording Kit No. 50176 which is available at extra cost.

The Cording Kit comprises:
4, double-needle holders for needle dis tances of 1/16, 5/66 3/32 and 7/64 inch; 4 cording feet; 3 cording plates (2 with cord ducts and 4 with cenier claw);
1 package of System 4308 needles; and 4 screwdriver. Additional parts for heavier cording ore available at exira cost.
The interchangeable double-needle holder is easy to attach.

Changing the Needle Holder
Bring take-up lever fo highest point, loosen small set screw ond change needle holders.
Tighten set screw securely. The large needle set screw must always point toward the right.
Use System 130B round-shank needles in ‘1/16 and 5/64 ineh double-needle holders, and System 130 R flat-shank needles in 3/32 and 7/64-inch needie holders. | To attach cording piate. refer to instructions on page 45 for mounting feed cover plate.

Increase the bobbin thread tension slightly for cording. Pfaff recommends you fill your cording so it keeps its shape in the laundry. Filler cord thickness depends on cording size you want. To sew filled cording, use the two cording plates with cord ducts.
Only very narrow tucks are made without filler cord.
Machine Setting: A-O – B-

Additional Information on Cording
Ordinary cording in medium-heavy fabric is made with cording foot No. 41701 and cording plate No. 41 842.

For thicker cording use foot No. 41790 with cording plate No. 105996.
Cording foot No. 41792 and plate No. 41 842 (with center claw, but without card duct) serve to make narrow air tucks in lightweight material.
Pin tucks also are made with cording foot No. 41792, but withaut cording plate.
Cording plate No. 41845 with high center claw is used chiefly for cording in thick felt.
Cording height and width are determined by the distance between the two needles, the cord diameter and the height of the ridge on the cording plate. Thread tensions also influence cording size. For uniform spacing of parallel tucks, attach an adjustable guide to the cording foot. When space between tucks is very narrow, place the preceding seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use It as a guide. This procedure insures uniform and parallel rows of cording.

Ornamental Sewing
You can make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and zigzag stitching, varying stitch length, stiteh width or needle position. To do this, depress lever F in rhythm. Some of these designs are illustrated below.
Surely you will be pleased to know that your PFAFF 259 can be converted into a PFAFF 260 Automatic at any time. Just see your Pfaff dealer who will be glad to do this job for you. With the PEAFF Automatic you can sew an endiess variety of beautiful decorative designs completely automatically and as simply as any plain seam.

The PFAFF 260 Automatic
Operation of this versatile machine is surprisingly simple and does not require ony special skill.
With the aid of the embroidery design dial (see above iMustration) the machine can be set for any desired stitch in a matter of seconds.
Pictured on both sides of the dial are only the primary designs the machine can do.
In addition, countless variations are passible by changing the length of the paftern or using one or two needles. The range of possible combinations Is staggering even to imagine.

The Transverse Spool Holder

To ensure that the thread will unwind evenly from a cross-wound spool, use the transverse spool holder which is part of the standard equipment of your machine.
To attach the spool holder, slip position spring 1 over the vertical spool pin, the bent portion of the spring pointing toward you. Push the spool of thread on spool pin 2. Press the position spring together, and push pin 2 into the spring slof. With the spring pressed together, adjust its position on the vertical spool pin, as required. When you release the spring, the transverse pin will be held in place firmly. Pass the thread through eyelet 3, and thread the machine as instructed.

References

• Manual-Hub.com – Free PDF manuals!

Read User Manual Online (PDF format)

Download This Manual (PDF format)

Download this manual  >>