Ecosy Panoramic 9 Multi Fuel Slimline Ecodesign Wood Burning Stove Instruction Manual

Ecosy Panoramic 9 Multi Fuel Slimline Ecodesign Wood Burning Stove

Product Information

• The Panoramic 9 Multi-Fuel stove is brought to you by Ecosy+ Stoves in Hampshire. It is a versatile stove that can burn both wood and smokeless coal.
• It is designed to provide efficient heat output and is Defra-approved for use in smoke control areas.
• The stove has a heat output range of 4.8kw to 9.5kw, with a nominal heat output of 7kw when burning wood.
• It has a high-efficiency rating, with a heat efficiency of 76.1% when burning wood and 78.8% when burning smokeless coal.
• The stove is equipped with adjustable feet for easy installation and weighs 140 kg.
• It has a rear outlet size and comes with a flue collar that needs to be attached during assembly.
• The stove is also Hetas Clean Air Approved.

Specifications

• Outlet   Size: 5 inches
• Defra Approved: Yes
• Heat Output: Wood – Nominal 7kw, Low Output 4.8kw, High Output 9.5kw; Smokeless Coal – 6.3kw
• Efficiency: Wood – 76.1%, Smokeless Coal – 78.8%
• Dust (at 13% O2): Wood – 13, Smokeless Coal – 31
• Mean NOX (at 13% O2): Wood – 68, Smokeless Coal – 155
• Mean CnHm (at 13% O2): Wood – 67, Smokeless Coal – 32
• Mean CO emissions: Wood – 0.10, Smokeless Coal – 0.12
• Hearth Temperature: 66.7°C
• Flue gas mass flow g/s: Wood – 7.0, Smokeless Coal – 5.0
• Mean Flue Gas Temp: Wood – 286, Smokeless Coal – 295
• Distance to Combustibles at the Rear: 425mm
• Distance to Combustibles at the Side: 250mm
• Hetas Clean Air   Approved: Yes (Wood)
• Adjustable Feet: Yes
• Weight: 140KG

ZProduct Usage Instructions

Assembly

• Your stove is fully built and almost ready to go. All you need to do is attach the flue collar that is boxed inside the fire, marked Chimney.

Flue Pipe on Top

• Attach the flue collar to the top of the stove.

Flue Pipe at Rear

• If you prefer, you can attach the flue collar to the rear of the stove.

Hearth

• Your stove is now assembled and ready for fitting! Place it on a suitable hearth that meets safety regulations and provides sufficient protection from heat.

Air Supply / Ventilation / Chimney Draw / Smoke Spillage

• For proper operation, ensure that the stove has adequate air supply and ventilation.
• If the stove is drawing in the air directly from the room, make sure that the direct air spigot at the rear has at least a 50mm gap from the back wall to allow oxygen to flow freely into the fire.
• If you find that the stove draws well with the door ajar but often dies when the door is closed, it could be due to a lack of oxygen flow through the spigot or a general lack of free oxygen in the room.
• Ensure proper ventilation to resolve this issue.
• If you are installing the stove into a brick chimney, it is recommended to line the chimney with an approved flexible liner (316 or 904 grade) to increase the stove’s efficiency.
• Do not connect or share the flue or chimney with other appliances.

Chimney Lining

• When purchasing flexible flue liners or twin-walled flue, a 6-inch diameter is required if the Defra stop is not fitted.
• If the Defra stop is in place, a 5-inch liner or twin-walled flue can be installed.
• It is against the law to install a 5-inch liner on a woodburning stove unless it has the required Defra fitting in place.
• The flue pipe must be fitted inside the flue spigot and sealed with a generous amount of Fire Cement.

FAQ

Q: What should I do in case of a chimney fire?

A: In case of a chimney fire, follow these steps:

1. Call the fire brigade
2. Ensure all air vents and flue dampers are shut to reduce the chimney fire’s oxygen supply
3. Move flammable materials, furniture, and ornaments away from the fireplace
4. Feel the chimney breast throughout the house – if it is getting hot, then move furniture away from it
5. Do not pour water on the fire if you have a stove

Q: What are the causes of chimney fires?

• A: The biggest cause of chimney fires is a build-up of deposits such as wood tar or coal soot. These deposits release combustible volatiles as they heat up from the fire below, which may ignite if the temperature reaches the ignition point.
• Regular cleaning of the flue/chimney is the most effective way to prevent chimney fires. We recommend flue sweeping at least once a year.

SAFETY

• Please take care when handling the stove. It will usually require 2 people to lift it.
• The stove is only designed to burn wood and smokeless fuel. No other fuels are permitted.
• Ensure that a working Carbon Monoxide alarm fitted in the room of the appliance.
• Ensure the stove is correctly installed and signed off.

CHIMNEY FIRE PROCEDURE

1. Call the fire brigade
2. Ensure all air vents and flue dampers are shut to reduce the chimney fire’s oxygen supply
3. Move flammable materials, furniture, and ornaments away from the fireplace
4. Feel the chimney breast throughout the house – if it is getting hot then move furniture away from it
5. Do not pour water on the fire if you have a stove

Causes of chimney fires

• The biggest cause of chimney fires is a build-up of deposits such as wood tar or coal soot. As these build up over time, the risk of chimney fire becomes greater.
• The deposits will release combustible volatiles as they heat up from the fire below. Eventually, these may ignite if the temperature reaches the ignition point.
• The easiest and most effective way to stop this happening is regular cleaning of the flue/chimney. This should be done in ratio to the fire usage. We recommend flue sweeping at least once a year.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION COVERING THE PANORAMIC 9 MULTI-FUEL

 |

PANORAMIC 9 MULTI-FUEL

---|---
Outlet Size| 5”
Defra Approved| Yes
Heat Output| Wood: Nominal 7kw – Low Output 4.8kw – High Output 9.5kw

Smokeless Coal: 6.3kw

Efficiency| Wood: 76.1% Smokeless Coal: 78.8%
DIN Plus Dust (at 13% O2)| Wood: 13 Smokeless Coal: 31
Mean NOX (at 13% O2)| Wood: 68 Smokeless Coal: 155
Mean CnHm (at 13% O2)| Wood: 67 Smokeless Coal: 32
Mean CO emissions| Wood: 0.10 Smokeless Coal: 0.12
---|---
Hearth Temperature| 66.7c
Flue gas mass flow g/s| Wood: 7.0 Smokeless Coal: 5.0
Mean Flue Gas Temp| Wood: 286 Smokeless Coal: 295
Distance to Combustibles at the Rear| 425mm
Distance to Combustibles at the Side| 250mm
Hetas Clean Air Approved| Yes ( Wood )
Adjustable Feet

Weight

| Yes

140KG

Diagrams

Panoramic 9 Multi-Fuel.

1. Wooden Handle
2. Door
3. Glass
4. Front right side fire brick
5. Back right-side fire brick
6. Primary baffle plate
7. Secondary baffle plate
8. Backfire brick
9. Top blanking plate
10. Steel body
11. Secondary slider
12. Direct air box
13. airflow piece
14. airflow bar
15. back left fire brick
16. Front left fire brick
17. Grate
18. Grate cradle
19. Ash pan
20. Log guard
21. Primary air slide
22. Primary air knob

ASSEMBLY

• Your stove is fully built and almost ready to go. All you need to do is attach the flue collar that is boxed inside the fire, marked “Chimney”.

FLUE PIPE ON TOP

• If you are attaching the flue to the top of the stove, you will need to remove the blanking plate that is currently on top. To do this you will need a Philips screwdriver and 10mm spanner.
• You can access the nuts holding the blanking plate on through the stove’s rear flue outlet that will currently be open.
• Place the spanner on each 10mm nut as you unscrew from above. When the nuts have been removed the blanking plate will come off.
• You can then attach the flue collar on top with the bolts going down into the stove.
• Reaching through the rear flue, place a washer and then nut on each thread and screw from above, whilst holding the nut with the 10mm spanner.
• When the collar is on you can then fix the blanking plate that came off the top onto the rear. Place the bolts through the rear blanking plate and line each one up with the pre-drilled hole on the stove.
• Reaching through the top outlet this time, place each washer and nut on. When they are all in place, begin to tighten each one with the screwdriver, whilst holding the nut in place with the 10mm spanner.

FLUE PIPE AT REAR

• If you are attaching a flue pipe to the rear, the blanking plate will remain on top, and the flue collar will simply bolt onto the rear with the provided fittings and via the same method as above.
• The baffle does not need removing to fit the flue outlet in place. If you are attaching the optional custom rear flue box, this will bolt on the rear of the stove and the flue collar will then fix onto this.
• The custom rear flue box helps customers who need to come out of the stove rear but want to avoid having the stove sticking out too far.
• Your stove is now assembled and ready for fitting!

HEARTH

• The Panoramic 9 is suitable for 12mm free-standing, non-constructional hearths – see diagram below, marked (b). This is allowed because each model’s base does not exceed 100°C.
• The hearth must be made from a non-combustible material strong enough to stand the weight of the fire. Further diagrams relating to construction hearths are attached below.
• For example, you could use a 12mm thick glass hearth and have that sit directly on a wooden floor.
• Please note that the minimum hearth size for a free-standing stove is 840mm x 840mm

AIR SUPPLY / VENTILATION / CHIMNEY DRAW / SMOKE SPILLAGE

• Your stove will require a constant air supply and should not be used at the same time and in the same room/space as extractor fans or any device that may draw the air supply away from the stove unless the fire is connected to its direct air feed socket. This unit is over 5kw and will require ventilation. This can either be achieved via an air brick in the room, allowing the stove to draw in ambient air. Or, you can connect up the direct air feed and have it pass through the wall. The stove will then draw air directly from the outside. Having a direct air feed fitted is not always required but can help if you have a poor drawing chimney. Something more common on a twin-walled insulated system.
• If the stove is drawing in air directly from the room, ensure the direct air spigot at the rear has at least a 50mm gap from the back wall to ensure oxygen can freely flow into the fire. If you find the stove draws well with the door ajar but often dies when the door is closed, it could be caused by a lack of oxygen able to flow through that spigot or a lack of free oxygen in the room in general.
• The testing for this model has been carried out on a chimney with a rating of 12 Pascals and this is industry standard. Anything less than this approved rating could cause smoke to spill from the stove into the room. The chimney is often overlooked by the end user but has a huge bearing on how the fire will perform. The chimney creates suction that pulls the smoke up the chimney and out, as opposed to forcing it out of the fire and into the room. The most common cause for a chimney not performing well is the fact it is cold. Cold air sinks the smoke, whereas a warmer chimney draws the smoke up and out. This issue is most common on twin-walled chimney systems and exposed brick chimneys on the gable end of a house. Getting heat up the chimney as quickly as possible will help to ensure this negative pressure is reversed as quickly as possible. The minimum chimney height required for this unit is 4.5 meters. The complete system must have fewer than 4 bends and each bend should be 45 degrees or under. You can exit from the rear of the fire and attach our custom rear flue box or a 90-degree T piece. Ensure single skin flue pipe is kept away from combustible materials as this will get very hot.
• If you are installing a brick chimney, we would suggest lining the chimney with an approved flexible liner. (316 or 904 grade) Doing so will increase the stove’s efficiency. Do not connect or share the flue or chimney.

CHIMNEY LINING

• When purchasing a flexible flue liner, or twin-walled flue, a 6” diameter is required if the Defra stop is not fitted. If the Defra stop is in place a 5” liner or twin-walled flue can be installed. It is against the law to install a 5” liner on a woodburning stove unless it has the required Defra fitting in place. The flue pipe must be fitted INSIDE the flue spigot and sealed with a generous amount of Fire Cement. Access should be provided for cleaning the flue to ensure that the passageways for exhaust gases remain free from obstruction. This stove cannot be installed into a shared flue.

AIR CONTROL

• The Panoramic has a bar under the stove and when this is pushed left, the vent is closed, and right, the vent is open… it’s that simple.
• The stoves have an inner and outer shell and all the air being fed into the fire is funneled between these two layers.
• When the vent is opened, the air is drawn up the rear and firstly fed through the series of holes positioned in the baffle plate (the large piece of metal bolted in at the rear).
• Air flowing through here helps to feed air into the chamber and re-burn the initial smoke produced by the fire.
• This is a unique design and one of the key reasons why this stove range is extremely clean burning.
• Air that is not fed through these holes continues to travel between the two layers and is then dispersed at speed over the glass.
• This heated and speeding effect is key to keeping the class clean.
• The stove also has a primary air flow vent on the door. This is to add additional air under the fire when burning smokeless coal. Wood does not need a great deal of primary air, however smokeless coal does.
• When you light the fire, you will want the vents fully open and in most cases the door ajar slightly. When testing the stove, this was left ajar for 3 minutes when first lighting the stove and on re-fuelling.
• However, this will depend on how well the chimney is drawn. When the fire is established to some degree the door can be closed and the vents gradually closed.
• If you close the vent down too early before the fire is established, it could go out and/or increase smoke output. When the stove is burning hot and is well established you can turn the fire right down.
• If done at the right time and with the right fuel, it will die right back and gently burn away for a long time.
• If you are burning wood, the primary vent should be closed off first, and then the burn rate of the fire controlled with the base lever.
• If you are burning smokeless coal, this primary vent will remain open for longer, as the coals need more air underneath them as opposed to air flowing over them.
• The base lever in most cases can be closed by around three-quarters and the burn rate of the coals is dictated by the primary air.

TIPS

• If you find the glass or fire bricks going black even when the fire is established, it is most likely caused by burning wet wood.
• When burning dry wood, the fire bricks, and glass should remain largely clean.
• When you come to refuel, if there is insufficient burning material in the fire bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can occur.
• Refueling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash so that the new fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period.
• If there are too few embers in the fire bed, add suitable kindling to prevent excessive smoke.
• We do not suggest mixing wood and smokeless coal, as this can create an acid that can rot the internal parts of the stove and chimney liner.

FUEL OVERLOADING

• Overloading can cause excess smoke.

Dampers left open.

• Operation with the air control or appliance dampers open can cause excess smoke.
• The appliance must not be operated with air controls, appliance dampers, or door left open except as directed in the instructions.

Operation with the door left open.

• Operation with the door open can cause excess smoke.
• The appliance must not be operated with the appliance door left open except as directed in the instructions.

SMOKE-FREE ZONES

REGULATIONS

• All National and local regulations, including those referring to national and European standards, need to be complied with when installing the stove.

THE CLEAN AIR ACT 1993 AND SMOKE CONTROL AREAS

• Under the Clean Air Act, local authorities may declare the whole or part of the district of the authority to be a smoke control area. It is an offense to emit smoke from a chimney of a building, from a furnace, or any fixed boiler if located in a designated smoke control area. It is also an offense to acquire an “unauthorized fuel” for use within a smoke control area unless it is used in an “exempt” appliance (“exempted” from the controls that generally apply in the smoke control area).

• In England, appliances are exempted by publication on a list by the Secretary of State under changes made to sections 20 and 21 of the Clean Air Act 1993 by section 15 of the Deregulation Act 2015. Similarly, in Scotland, appliances are exempted by publication on a list by Scottish Ministers under section 50 of the Regulatory Reform (Scotland) Act 2014. In Northern Ireland appliances
  are exempted by publication on a list by the Department of Agriculture, Environment and Rural Affairs under Section 16 of the Environmental Better Regulation Act (Northern Ireland) 2016.

• In Wales, appliances are exempted by regulations made by Welsh Ministers.

• Further information on the requirements of the Clean Air Act can be found here: https://www.gov.uk/smoke-control-area-rules

• The Panoramic 9 has both been recommended as suitable for use in smoke control areas when burning seasoned wood logs. Each appliance has been factory fitted with a screw that prevents the full closure of the vent.

• If you are not in a smoke-free zone, this can be removed.

• Your local authority is responsible for implementing the Clean Air Act 1993 including designation and supervision of smoke control areas and you can contact them for details of Clean Air Act requirements.

• The Panoramic 9 has a small metal plate fixed to the left of the air control lever underneath the stove.

• This can only be removed if you are not in a smoke-free zone and have installed a 6” chimney system or greater.

• Please note the following advice on minimizing smoke emissions:

FUEL

• Wood- All types of wood are suitable provided they are well seasoned, UNTREATED, and have a moisture level between 12% and 20%.
• For softwoods, typically they will need to have been left in suitable storage for 9+ months for the moisture to evaporate.
• For hardwoods, this will usually be 18 months. It is recommended that logs should be no more than 5” (125mm) in diameter and 8” (200mm) in length.
• If you are unsure of the moisture content of your fuel, then you can buy a moisture meter which will indicate the moisture levels in your fuel. Liquid fuels must NEVER be used.
• WARNING: Wet timber should not be used as this will create excess tar deposits in the chimney and stove and could increase the risk of chimney fire.
• Timber that is not of suitable moisture content will also create more smoke and harmful emissions and will damage the stove and flue system.
• If you are buying wood, always look out for the “Ready To Burn” logo. Suppliers who sign up for this have regular checks to ensure that the wood they are selling is below a certain moisture content and is consistent with what they are advertising.
• Solid Fuel – Solid mineral fuel should be placed in the stove so that there is no more than a 30° incline of the fuel bed from front to back. It should not be stacked above the level of the rear firebrick as this may result in damage to the stove. Always de-ash before refueling and do not let the ash build up to the underside of the grate. Solid mineral fuel produces ash, which if allowed to build up will stifle the airflow through the Primary air inlet. This will eventually cause the fire to go out. With some solid mineral fuels, a residue of burnt fuel or clinker will accumulate on the grate. Allow the fire to go out periodically to remove this.
• Important! – We cannot stress firmly enough how important it is to empty the ashpan regularly. The air passing through the fire bed cools the grate down.
• Distortion or burning out the grate bars is nearly always caused by ash being allowed to build up to the underside of the grate.
• Anthracite is an approved natural smokeless fuel (not processed) and therefore can vary greatly in quality and performance.
• It generally requires excellent air supply and above-average fire-bed temperatures to maintain maximum performance and with experience, we would suggest that it is used in conjunction with other approved manufactured smokeless fuels as per the HETAS approved list http://www.hetas.co.uk/find-fuels/ . Smokeless fuels

LIGHTING MY STOVE

Before lighting the fire for the first time, ensure that

• Installation and building work is complete.
• The chimney is suitable, sound, swept, and free from obstruction.
• Adequate ventilation and provision for combustion air have been made.
• The stove installation has been carried out under Building Regulations and any applicable local regulations as well as these installation instructions.
• The chimney draw has been checked and is within specification. (The stove has been tested at nominal output with a flue draught of 12 Pa) INITIAL CURING AND TEMPERING FIRES.

TIPS

• Getting heat into the chamber is very important. A hot chamber will increase the efficiency of the stove and make refueling the fire very easy.
• If the temperature in the stove is too low, the glass will begin to go black, and excess smoke will be produced.
• Often the key to a hot firebox is the burning of quality dry fuel.
• If you are burning dry wood and the stove still struggles to burn, it could be that you do not have enough free oxygen in the room. or, the 100mm air inlet at the rear does not have enough gap to the wall, restricting airflow into the stove.

IGNITION

• (FOLLOW INITIAL TEMPERING INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE FIRST TO AVOID DAMAGE)
• Construct a pile of kindling in the middle of the bed using approx 500g of kindling wood. Stacking the wood like Jenga blocks can help, as this allows lots of air to flow through.
• Ensure the vents are fully open to allow lots of free air into the stove
• Light with a single firelighter.
• WARNING The high-temperature paint covering the stove will give off some fumes during the initial few uses of the stove. The fumes are non-toxic, but some people may find them unpleasant. Ensure the area is well-ventilated during this period
• Leave the door ajar slightly as that begins to catch. ( Around 3 minutes )
• After a few minutes add your first log or two and then continue to leave the door ajar.
• When the burn becomes established, you can close the door; from there, as the fire gains in momentum and the firebox increases in heat, you can begin closing the vents down. ( For further information on settings please see the section marked ” Air Controls “
• Once the load burns down to embers you can re-load the fire. If the stove is nice and warm with plenty of embers, you may not have to have the door ajar.

FIRST USE TROUBLESHOOTING

• When the stove is new the paint is very tacky where the stove is curing. The door locks very tightly and when opened can pull away the fire rope from its chamber. If the instructions are followed above this should not happen. However, if it does, the rope will need to be stuck back in place with “heat-resistant fire rope glue” After a few burns the paint will be cured and this should no longer happen.
• In some cases, your glass can go black in the first few burns. This happens because the stove is not running hot. When the stove gets up to temperature this should begin to burn off. If it does not, the glass may need cleaning with a stove glass cleaner or a damp cloth that has been dipped in the ash.
• Under certain abnormal weather conditions, for example down draughts, it may be difficult to get sufficient draw through the appliance to achieve good combustion. When this happens, the stove should not be used.

CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE

• When cold, the inside of the stove should be given a regular sweep out.
• The flue and flue pipe will require cleaning with a suitable chimney brush, to minimize build-up of soot and tar. Your chimney will also require periodic sweeping. We would suggest using a registered and qualified chimney sweep. If the glass becomes stained from the inside, the air-wash vent may need to open more during use. The high-temperature paint in which your stove is finished should last many years with normal use, but when it does eventually require re-finishing, black heat-resistant paint in spray cans can be purchased from most hardware stores. We would suggest using “Calfire flat black paint”. Do not use regular paint which is not high temperature resistant. After prolonged periods of not using the fire, the stove and flue system should be checked for blockages before relighting. We recommend regular servicing and safety checks are carried out by a qualified engineer. There must be no unauthorized modification of the appliance.
• Use only replacement parts recommended by the manufacturer.

Baffle Plate Removal

• If you have not installed an access hatch into the first length of the flue pipe and need to remove the baffle plate to gain access for cleaning, you can do this by following the below steps.

1. Remove the log retainer and base fire brick.
2. Remove the side and backfire bricks.
3. Unbolt the baffle plate. The baffle plate is held in with 2 x 10mm nuts that fix into a thread, which is wound into the body of the stove. You only need to remove the nut to slide the baffle plate away but sometimes these are stiff and will bring the thread with it but should easily wind back in place. Ensure the flat heat-resistant fire rope seal is in good condition before reattaching the baffle. If the seal is not connecting with the stove body, excess air will spill into the stove, making the air wash and secondary burn less effective. We would also suggest adding a little bit of copper grease to these bolts and the handle bolts when a service is carried out. Keeping this copper greased will ensure it remains easy to remove in years to come. The rope for the baffle is a generic 10mm wide self-adhesive fire rope that can be readily found online.

Replacing the Fire Rope

• If your fire rope has become frayed and is no longer making good contact, it will need replacing. To change the rope, we suggest removing the door and laying it flat.
• To remove the door, you need to lever up the bottom door pin, which will have a small head on it. When this is removed, the door will drop down and pull away.
• When removed you can pull away the old rope and clean out the groove, ensuring it is free of debris. Make a note of how the rope was laid as this will make laying the new rope easier.
• When the groove is clean, line it with a continuous bead of heat-resistant rope glue. You can then lay the rope in the groove pressing it as you go and cutting off any excess. Allow at least 30 minutes for this to dry before re-attaching the door.

Changing glass

• To change the glass, you will first need to remove the door. To do this you need to lever up the bottom door pin and this will have a small head on it. When this is removed, the door will drop down and pull away.
• Note: On newer models, there is a small Alen key thread pinching this pin in place. This will need to be removed before the pin can be removed. When removed, lay down the door with the handle facing down.
• Begin removing the small glass clips. When removed you can take the old glass out and pop the new one in. When in place, ensure it is making good contact with the fire rope. If that has been checked, you can re-attach the clips and gently pinch them up.
• Overtightening these clips can cause the glass to break.
• Please note, that the guarantee does not include broken glass, crazed glass, fire bricks, door seals, or paint as these are all classed as perishable items.

GUARANTEE

• The main body of your stove is guaranteed for 5 years on the Panoramic 9
• Incorrect use or installation not carried out by a registered HETAS installer will void the guarantee. The only exceptions will be if the installation has been signed off by your local authority or a suitably qualified Oftec installer. In addition to this, the stove must be serviced annually by a suitably accredited chimney sweep or stove installer. For example, HETAS / METAC / NACS. In this service, any perishable parts that are damaged will need replacing.
• Please keep hold of these receipts, as they will most likely be required in the unlikely event that a claim is to be made. We will only ever be liable for the stove itself and will not cover the cost of installation or de-installation of
  a product. We urge customers to check the stove over before it is installed to double-check check there is no courier damage or obvious defects with the stove. Any potential Issues are easier to resolve before the stove is installed.

Notes:

• If a fire brick is only split but is still fully protecting the shell, then it does not always need replacing in the service. They only need replacing when they have crumbled away, exposing the stove’s shell.
• If the seal is leaking air into the fire this does need changing right away. Any excess air could cause the burner to overfire. In some cases, the rope is fine, and the handle simply needs adjusting to make the door lock a little tighter.
• If the glass is not split and is only crazed, then it does not need replacing to keep in line with the guarantee terms.
• Please keep a record of all services as this will be required if a claim is ever put forward.
• As a company, we will only ever be responsible for the product itself and would not cover installation / de-installation of any product that did have to be replaced.
• The guarantee period will begin when the stove has been invoiced. Please keep hold of your invoice as this will be requested if a claim is started. If this is not provided upon request, we will not be able to escalate your claim.
• The guarantee will begin from the sale date on the invoice, and we do not cover any cost incurred when removing faulty appliances or installing new ones, even if it has been proven that the stove is faulty.
• For full guarantee details please visit www.ecosystoves.co.uk.
• With every claim, we will require a signed copy of the sign-off sheet.

BROKEN FIRE BRICKS

• It is common for vermiculite bricks to break. They are fully heat resistant but can be quite fragile.
• The most common bricks to break are the base and back bricks as these take the brunt of abuse. ( wood only models have a base brick ) To ensure the longevity of your fire bricks, please ensure that you gently place fuel in the fire and do not overstack fuel.
• We would also suggest leaving a small bed of ash in the fire at all times. This helps the wood burn more efficiently and also acts as a cushion between the log and the brick itself.
• If a brick is split it will not need replacing and this could potentially happen at any point.
• We only suggest changing bricks when they have crumbled away, exposing the stove’s body.

BROKEN / CRAZED GLASS

• The glass used in all fires is fully approved heat-resistant ceramic glass. This glass will not break through heat but can easily break if struck with a log or similarly hard object.
• This is why the glass is not covered by any manufacturer of stoves.
• Common causes for glass breakages are customers closing the door when a log is still sticking out. Glass will not always break straight away and can be chipped or weakened.
• It will then often break at a different time with seemingly no contact.
• When replacing glass, ensure you only pinch up the glass clips. If they are over-tightened it could cause the glass to break.
• Cloudy, ‘milky’ or crazed glass is caused by unburned acidic condensates etching the ceramic glass and unfortunately, this cannot be easily removed.
• It is not faulty glass but instead does have more to do with the quality of the fuel that you burn and the way that you operate your stove (long slumbering).
• This is less common on wood-only models as it is often caused by the high sulfur content in some coals. If your glass is crazed, it does not need changing and is safe to use.
• An example of crazed stove glass.

Rusty Stove

• All stoves on the market are either made from mild steel or cast iron. The mild steel models like this are shot blasted and then painted with high-temperature black paint.
• This will protect the stove but if the stove remains damp for a long time the oxidization process ( surface rusting ) will begin.

Over time, if your stove begins to develop rust it will either be caused by:

• The stove being kept in a damp environment – For example, if the stove was left in a damp place for a long time before fitting.
• Or, the stove is in a damp room and not lit too often.
• The chimney is leaking water onto the stove.
• The stove is being cleaned with a wet cloth and not dried quickly.
• Luckily, the resolution for this is not too hard. In most cases, the stove will just need a wipe down with a dry cloth and touching up with some Calfire Flatt black paint.
• This will bring the paint back to a nice finish and will not reappear, assuming the cause of the stove getting damp/wet has been rectified. Please see the attached picture below as an example of a stove that is beginning to rust.
• Panoramic 9 Multi-Fuel
• ecosystoves.co.uk
• + 4 4 1 2 5 6 8 3 00 99
• ADDRESS
• Ecosy+
• nit 22 and 26, Folly Farm,
• Ramsdell
• Tadley, Hampshire
• RG26 5RJ
• United Kingdom
• CONTACT
• Telephone: + 44 1256 830099
• Email:trade@ecosystoves.co.uk

References

• Defra-Approved Multi-Fuel Woodburning Stoves Direct to the Trade from Ecosy+
• Defra-Approved Multi-Fuel Woodburning Stoves Direct to the Trade from Ecosy+
• Defra-Approved Multi-Fuel Woodburning Stoves Direct to the Trade from Ecosy+
• Find Biomass Wood, Logs, Chips, Pellets & Briquettes - HETAS
• Smoke control areas: the rules - GOV.UK

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