MICROJIG MJ-splitter Pro Table Saw Safety Spitters User Manual

June 14, 2024
MICROJIG

MJ Splitter™ SteelPro
User Manual
Table saw splitters with Automatic Kerf Keeper.
www.microjig.com
support@microjig.com
Microjig © 2022

MJ-splitter Pro Table Saw Safety Spitters

1/8″ Kerf (Blue)
SP-2
Splitter thickness: 0.118″ ±0.001″ (3.0mm)
Kerf range: 0.118″ – 0.145″ (3.0mm – 3.2mm)

Thin Kerf (Orange)
SP-2TK
Splitter thickness: 0.086″ ±0.001″ (2.2mm)
Kerf range: 0.090″ – 0.118″ (2.3mm – 3.0mm)

Parts Included

# Miter Bar Parts Qty
A Splitter A (MJ & +++) 2
B Splitter B (+ & ++) 2
C Kerf Keeper (KK 0 & 3) 2
D Kerf Keeper (1 & 2) 2
E Adapting Sleeves 3 (1 spare)
F Drill Guide Base 1
G Rear Adjustable Drill Guide 1
H 3/16″ Drill Bit 1
I Wood screws 5
J 8-32 x 1/2″ machine screws 2
K #8 Flat washers 2

Important!

  • Splitters for use with Standard 10″ table saw blades only.
  • Splitters are not interchangeable between models. Do not use 1/8″
  • Splitters with a thin kerf blade or vice versa.
  • For making 90º cuts only. Splitters will not work with a tilted arbor.

WARNING
Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Follow all safety precautions and use best practices. Microjig assumes no liability for any products not sold and manufactured by Microjig.

Installation For General Cutting

Please read entire manual before beginning installation.
Saw must be in good working condition with the rip fence parallel to the saw blade.

  • For installation on Zero Clearance Inserts (ZCI) without existing splitter openings only.
  • Every installation option must have its dedicated saw kerf created on a new ZCI. Two installations on the same ZCI are possible if the ZCI can be rotated 180º.
  • ZCI must be flush with the saw table surface.
  • The ZCI must fit snugly within the throat plate opening.
  • The ZCI must be made of a rigid material that will not bend or flex in use.
  • This manual covers set up with the blade set to maximum height for full depth of cut. For lower height setups, see Step 7.

Setup A – For general cutting

Two Splitters in line reduce chances of kickback by preventing either side of stock from contacting the rear of the blade.
This setup requires at least 2″ from the rear of the blade (at full height) to the back of the throat plate.

Setup B – For smaller throat plates

A single Splitter can be used with throat plates with less than 2″ behind the blade to help reduce stock contact with the blade. A minimum of 1-1/4” behind the blade is required.

Setup C – Recommended for ripping solid wood

One splitter with one Kerf Keeper requires a different hole pattern than using two Splitters.
If the saw has a symmetrical throat plate, a duel setup can be made on each side of the same plate.
Learn more at: https://microjig.com/zci

If the kerf begins to close behind the blade, it will pinch the Kerf Keeper, pulling it out of the throat plate. Immediately stop cutting and shut down the saw when this happens.

Step 1 – Prepare two setup boards

Using manufactured stock such as MDF or high quality plywood is highly recommended.
NOTE: The alignment marks on the drill guide will only work with a 1/2” thick setup board. Quality 1/2” plywood without voids can also be used but must be flat and dimensionally stable. Do not use solid woods for this purpose.

1.1 Prepare two 5” wide, 15” long, and 1/2″ thick boards with square ends.
1.2 Draw a line across one side of both boards at 3” from one end.
1.3 Mark these “A” and “B”.

Step 2 – Create saw kerf on boards A & B

Fig 2 – Creating saw kerf in setup boards

2.1 Set the blade height to just over 1/2” and lock the rip fence in place at 3” to the right of the blade. Do not move the fence until completed.
2.2 Feed and cut board A through the blade until it reaches the pencil line.
2.3 Turn off the saw while holding the board in place. Remove the board after the blade stops.
2.4 Repeat steps 2.2–2.3 for board B.

Step 3 – Place Drill Guide on board

3.1 Disconnect the power from the saw.
3.2 Place board A in place over the blade as shown.
3.3 Place the Drill Guide Base (F) on the front edge of the board with the underside T-rib set into the kerf.

Step 4 – Install screws

Fig 4 – Install and screw Drill Guide Base

4.1 Lightly press the Drill Guide Base (F) against the fence side of the kerf.
4.2 Use a center punch to center each screw location.
4.3 Install three screws (I) through the holes in the Drill Guide Base to secure it to board A.
4.4 Install the two remaining screws (I) while pressing down lightly on the right side of the Drill Guide Base.

Step 5 – Adjust Drill Guide

Fig 5 – Place Drill Guide Base on board.

5.1 Loosen, but do not remove, the two screws (J) holding the Rear Drill Guide (G).
5.2 For setups A or B, slide the Rear Drill Guide (G) away from the fence until it stops and secure it in place by tightening the screws (J).
5.3 For setup C, slide the Rear Drill Guide (G) toward the fence and secure it in place by tightening the screws (J).

Step 6 – Inserting plates

Fig 6a – Align blade with 3″ mark

6.1 Raise the blade to its full height—or the maximum height you choose to use.
6.2 Being careful of the teeth, rotate the blade so that one tooth is level with the kerf slot in the Drill Guide Base (F).
6.3 Slide board A forwards or backwards until the tooth aligns with the 3” mark on the Drill Guide Base (F).

Fig 6b – Clamp board using a hold down clamp

6.4 For insert plates with slightly less than 2” behind the blade, a lower maximum blade height can be used to shift the saw kerf forward. In this  case, align the tooth with the 2.5”, 2” or 1.5” marks as needed.
6.5 Clamp board A in place using a hold down clamp to ensure it cannot move during drilling.

Step 7– Drilling ZCI plates (wood, MDF or plastic throat plates)

7.1 Lower the saw blade all the way to avoid contact with the drill bit.
7.2 Using the included drill bit (H), drill mounting holes into the ZCI through the two guide holes in the Drill Guide Base (F)
7.3 Drill two more holes through the guide holes in Rear Drill Guide (G).

NOTE: Drill through the ZCI in one plunging movement until the drill bit is through, and make sure to keep the drill upright and aligned. Reverse the drill to back the bit out to avoid reaming the guide holes. Do not try to drill the holes  in steps withdrawing the bit to clear chips.

Step 8 – Drilling phenolic throat plates

Fig 8 – Drilling phenolic plate

NOTE: Drilling phenolic can cause excess heat and distortion. Retract the bit regularly when drilling to clear debris and heat. This will ensure clean holes.
8.1 Lower the saw blade all the way to avoid contact with the drill bit.
8.2 Use the included drill bit (H) to mark the guide holes in the Drill Guide Base (F) and the Rear Drill Guide (G). Drill about 1/8” deep. Do not drill through the ZCI.
8.3 Remove board A and the ZCI from the saw and separate them. Finish drilling the mounting holes through the phenolic ZCI on a drill press using the included drill bit (H).

Step 9 – Chamfer holes and test fit

Fig 9 – Test fit Splitter in holes

9.1 Chamfer the edges of the four mounting holes to about 1/32”. This will make it easier to insert Splitters and fit Kerf Keeper sleeves.
9.2 Test fit the Splitters in the holes to ensure a good fit. The Splitter should fit completely in the holes using hand strength. Gently bore the holes using the drill bit If the fit is too tight
NOTE: If the Splitter is stuck and cannot be removed by hand, insert a screwdriver through the top hole of the Splitter and pull out.

Offset Markings

Two blades of different brands that cut a 0.125” kerf may not cut along exactly the same line. Not all full kerf blades are the same thickness, and a sharpened blade will cut a slightly thinner kerf than when new.
Four Splitters are provided for this reason. The “MJ” side has no offset, and each “+” marks that the side is 0.003” thicker.
Used in various combinations, these allow Splitters to work with different blades and the slight differences in blade thickness.
There are also four Kerf Keepers (solid color), but they are nonreversible. The “KK 0” matches the “MJ” on the Splitter, and the numbers match the number of “+” signs.

Splitter Kerf Keeper Offset
MJ KK 0 0″
+ 1 0.003″
++ 2 0.006″
+++ 3 0.009″

Replacement Splitters and Kerf Keepers are available at:
https://microjig.com/splitter

Step 10 – General setup

10.1 Using setup board B, place one Splitter into the holes closest to the blade with the “MJ”  marking facing the fence. Raise the blade tojust past 1/2″.
10.2 With the saw turned off, feed board B into the blade while keeping the board tight against the rip fence. As the kerf reaches the first Splitter, the fence side of the Splitter (MJ side) should lightly touch the kerf wall.
10.3 If the fit is not correct, pull board B back and change the Splitter so one “+” sign faces the fence. Continue to try other Splitters until the face closest to the fence contacts the kerf wall.

Step 11 – Using two Splitters

11.1 Insert a Splitter into the second set of holes with the “MJ” marking facing away from the rip fence.
11.2 Slide board B forward until the kerf meets the second Splitter and observe the fit.
11.3 Adjust the second Splitter so the side opposite the fence (MJ side) is barely touching the opposite kerf wall.
11.4 Once set, record the Splitter markings so they can be replaced in the proper order if removed.

Step 12 – Using Kerf Keepers (Optional)

12.1 Insert the Adapting Sleeves (E) into the second set of holes in the ZCI.
12.2 Insert a Kerf Keeper into the sleeves. The markings on the side of the Kerf Keeper should match the markings on the Splitter.
12.3 If the kerf begins to close behind the blade, it will pinch the Kerf Keeper, pulling it out of the ZCI. Immediately stop cutting and shut down the saw when this happens.
NOTE: The Kerf Keeper will be in line with the front Splitter and not offset as in the previous step.

Fig 12b – Kerf Keeper pulling up
Stop cutting and immediately shut the saw off if the  Kerf Keeper becomes trapped within the kerf orbegins moving with the board.

Keeping Splitters adjusted to the blade

MJ Splitters and factory riving knives must be adjusted side-to-side to accommodate the slight differences in the kerf line between blades. Few woodworkers take the time to properly adjust the riving knife or MJ Splitters when changing  blades. Microjig Arbor Shims solve this problem by aligning all of your blades to a single cut line. MJ Splitters do not need to be adjusted again once they are set to the cut line.
The only adjustment needed will be the left side of the rear Splitter to fit the kerf width. As a bonus, you can calibrate your rip fence scale to the same line and never adjust it again. Learn more at: https://microjig.com/arbor- shims

Warranty Registration

All parts are covered for manufacturing defects by a 3-year extended warranty. Kerf Keepers are sacrificial devices and not covered under warranty if deformed in use. Register at:
https://microjig.com/warranty
100% Satisfaction Guarantee
All Microjig products are backed by a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. If for any reason you’re not  completely satisfied, return it for a full refund. Learn more: https://microjig.com/return-policy

References

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