tandy LEATHER 44070-00 INS Salem Small Wallet Kit Instruction Manual
- June 15, 2024
- Tandy Leather
Table of Contents
tandy LEATHER 44070-00 INS Salem Small Wallet Kit
KIT CONTAINS
- Pre-Cut Pre-Punched Leather Button Stud
- Needles (2)
- Thread
- Instructions & Pattern
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, YOU WILL NEED
- Thread Cutter or
- Scissors
- Small Screwdriver
CAUTION
CUT HAZARD
Functional sharp points. CHOKING HAZARD: Small parts. Keep out of reach of
children.
PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING PROJECT.
NOTE: ALL STAINING, DYEING, AND TOOLING SHOULD BE DONE PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY.
WHAT’S INCLUDED?
Main Body (A) Button Stud (B) Needles & Thread
Not Shown: Instructions & Pattern
SKILLS USED
Edge Lock Stitch Saddle Stitch Backstitch Hardware Installation Burnishing
OPTIONAL TOOLS
Binder Clips or Preferred Adhesive to secure leather pieces. Stitching Horse to hold leather pieces while stitching. Scratch Awl to widen stitch holes.
- Multi-size Wood Slicker to burnish edges.
- Gum Tragacanth to burnish edges.
- Cotton Swab to apply Gum Tragacanth.
- Loctite® Threadlocker to secure hardware.
GLOSSARY
FLESH SIDE: The underside of an animal’s hide. On veg-tanned tooling leather,
this is the rough side.
GRAIN SIDE
The hide’s surface that had the hair of the animal. Typically used for
carving and stamping.
OPTIONAL: FINISHING EDGES
-
Before assembling, burnish all edges of Main Body (A) to desired finish. See Level Up Your Skills starting on page 8 for detailed instructions on How to Burnish Edges. STITCHING GUSSETS TOGETHER
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Cut thread 5 times the length of the stitch line and thread both ends with harness needles. See Level Up Your Skills starting on page 8 for detailed instructions on How to Thread a Needle.
-
Place Main Body (A) grain side down. Overlap the right gusset over the left and align stitch holes. Gently press to form a fold on each side. (Figure 1)
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Start three stitch holes down, and saddle stitch towards the center of the Main Body (A). (Figure 2) Pro Tip: Secure with binder clips/ preferred adhesive to stabilize leather pieces. See Level Up Your Skills starting on page 8 for detailed instructions on How to Saddle stitch.
-
Finish with and edge lock stitch. Then backstitch 2-3 stitches and trim thread. (Figure 3) See Level Up Your
Skills starting on page 8 for detailed instructions on How to Edge Lock Stitch and Backstitch. -
Fold the bottom gussets in and align stitch holes. Gently press to form a fold on each side. (Figure 4)
-
Cut thread 5 times the length of the stitch line and thread both ends with harness needles.
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Overlap the left gusset over the right and match the holes. Start from the center of the Main Body (A), perform one edge lock stitch. (Figure 5)
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Then saddle stitch down and stop at the third hole from the end. (Figure 6)
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Fold the Main Body (A) in half so that the stitch ines meet.
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Perform an edge lock stitch at the top, connecting the two pockets together. Then saddle stitch the remaining holes. (Figures 7-8)
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Backstitch 2-3 stitches at the end to secure, and trim thread. (Figure 9)
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Take the screw of the Button Stud (B) and place it through the hole on the front from the flesh side of the Main Body (A). Screw the button stud on. (Figures 10-12)
Pro Tip: Use Loctite® Threadlocker (found at most hardware stores) to secure Button Stud (B).
CONGRATULATIONS, YOU’VE MADE A SALEM SMALL WALLET KIT!
- Images are for construction purposes only. Colors may vary.
LEVEL UP YOUR SKILLS WITH TANDY
BURNISHING EDGES
NOTE: Burnish all individual pieces before assembling. Then burnish final
product to desired results.
- Rub emery board gently across the edges so that the leather is even and smooth. Dust off. (Figure 1)
- Use a cotton swab to gently seal the edges with Eco-Flo® Gum Tragacanth Burnishing Agent. Let air dry. (Figure 2)
- Burnish edges with a wood slicker. (Figure 3)
- Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you reach desired outcome.
HOW TO EDGE LOCK STITCH
An edge lock stitch joins two separate pieces of material over a flat edge to
prevent unravelling and can be used at the start or end of a saddle stitch.
- Insert one of the threaded needles through the first hole. Pull the needle through until there are equal lengths of thread on either side.
- Take one needle and make a loop that goes around the outside edge of leather. Insert opposing needle through the opposite side to close the loop. (Figure 1)
- Resume saddle stitching as normal. (Figure 2)
- To finish with an edge lock stitch, reverse needles and place them back through the last stitch hole making a loop that goes around the outside edge of leather.
- Another example of an edge lock stitch can be used when all edges are flush and the thread loop goes around the outside edge of all layers of leather. (Figure 3)
HOW TO THREAD YOUR NEEDLES
- Cut your thread to 5 times the length of the seam you are sewing and feed one end through the eye of one needle, moving over to the opposite end of the thread. Repeat step 1 for the second needle. (Figure 1)
- Take the point of your needle and push it through the longer portion of the thread. Once the needle is all the way through, give a gentle tug to lock thread into place. (Figure 2)
- Repeat Step 2 with the second needle. There should now be a knot behind both needles to secure the thread in place as you are stitching. (Figure 3)
HOW TO BACKSTITCH
- When you reach the final hole in your stitch line, reverse the direction of your needles and saddle stitch back through the last 2-3 holes in your line. If your stitch line meets back where the line began, you can simply saddle stitch over your first 2-3 stitches without reversing the direction of your needles to lock them in. Tip: It may be tighter to get the needles through the holes that have already been stitched, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to help pull the needles through if needed. (Figures 1-3)
- To finish, pull the remaining thread to the less visible side of your work. Snip off the excess then tuck it into the last hole.
HOW TO SADDLE STITCH
The saddle stitch is a strong stitch that is made up of two independent
stitches that lock together. This allows the stitches to hold even if a stitch
is broken.
-
Holding one threaded needle in each hand, begin saddle stitching by inserting one needle into the first hole of your stitching line. Pull the needle and thread through the hole until you have equal lengths of thread on either side. (Figure 1)
-
With one needle in each hand, begin weaving the needlesThread your needles with a length of thread that is 5x the length of the line you are stitching.
Tip: Use a Stitching Horse to secure your pieces in place and allow for easier sewing.through the next stitch hole, one needle at a time. It is important to be consistent with your motions, always starting each stitch with the same hand. We will start with the left-hand needle for each stitch for these instructions. Push the left needle through next hole in your stitch line. -
Once the left needle is through the hole, insert your right- hand needle through the same hole, being sure to pull the left thread back to avoid piercing it with the right needle. Pull the thread from both needles all the way through the hole and give the thread a gentle tug to tighten up the stitches.(Figure 2)
Optional: If your stitch holes are large enough, you can insert your needles in the same hole at the same time. Cross your needles into an “X” as you push them through the hole. Be sure to always place the same side needle on the top and bottom for each stitch, then pull the needles through and tighten up the thread with a gentle tug. -
Repeat Steps 3-4 until you reach the end of your stitch line, starting with the same side needle for each stitch. Be sure to give the thread a light tug at the end of each stitch to keep even tension.
FOR MORE PATTERNS, PROJECTS, AND TIPS, VISIT
TANDYLEATHER.COM/BLOG.
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