Air King 5000 Flow Through Furnace Mounted Humidifier Instruction Manual

FLOW-THROUGH
FURNACE
HUMIDIFIER
Model 5000/6000

Warranty
Maintenance
Troubleshooting Guide
www.airkinglimited.com

LIMITED WARRANTY

WHAT THIS WARRANTY COVERS: This product is warranted against defects in workmanship and/or materials.
HOW LONG THIS WARRANTY LASTS: This warranty extends only to the original purchaser of the product and lasts for three (3) years from the date of original purchase or until the original purchaser of the product sells or transfers the product, whichever first  occurs.
WHAT AIR KING WILL DO: Air King will, at its sole option, repair or replace any part or parts that prove to be defective or replace the whole product with the same or comparable model. For all warranty claims, the product must be returned to Air King at  customer expense with proof of purchase within the warranty period. Contact the Air King customer service department to obtain a Return Authorization (“RA”). DO NOT return products without an RA or the warranty claim will not be processed.
WHAT THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER: This warranty does not apply if the product was damaged or failed because of accident, improper handling or operation, shipping damage, abuse, misuse, unauthorized repairs made or attempted, or the use of the  product for commercial or nonresidential service. This warranty does not cover shipping costs for the return of products to Air King for repair or replacement. Air King will pay return shipping charges from Air King following warranty repairs or replacement ANY AND ALL WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY), LAST THREE YEARS FROM THE DATE OF ORIGINAL PURCHASE OR UNTIL THE ORIGINAL PURCHASER OF THE PRODUCT SELLS OR TRANSFERS THE PRODUCT, WHICHEVER FIRST OCCURS AND IN NO EVENT SHALL AIR KING’S LIABILITY UNDER ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY INCLUDE (I) INCIDENTAL OR  CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES FROM ANY CAUSE WHATSOEVER, OR (II) REPLACEMENT OR REPAIR OF ANY HOUSE FUSES, CIRCUIT BREAKERS OR RECEPTACLES. NOTWITHSTANDING ANYTHING TO THE CONTRARY, IN NO EVENT SHALL  AIR KING’S LIABILITY UNDER ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY EXCEED THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE PRODUCT AND ANY SUCH LIABILITY SHALL TERMINATE UPON THE EXPIRATION OF THE WARRANTY PERIOD. THIS  WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER ANY LABOR OR SHIPPING COSTS, OR THE COST OF REPLACEMENT COMPONENTS AS PART OF ROUTINE MAINTENANCE (SUCH AS FLOW THROUGH HUMIDIFIER EVAPORATOR PADS, INLET WATER FILTERS,  ORIFICE FITTINGS).
Some states and provinces do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, or the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so these exclusions or limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights.  You may also have other rights which vary from state to state and province to province. Proof of purchase is required before a warranty claim will be accepted.

CUSTOMER SERVICE:
Toll-Free 800-465-7300 www.airkinglimited.com
Our Customer Service team is available to assist you with product and service questions, and replacement parts. They can be reached Monday through Friday,8am-3:30pm Eastern. Please have your model number available.
Please do not send product to this location)

SAVE THIS DOCUMENT AND ATTACH YOUR RECEIPT

For warranty replacement and or technical support, email a copy of your proof of purchase to service2@airkinglimited.com along with your name, address, phone number and a brief description of the problem. In order to assist us in servicing you, include  pictures to help identify component parts or installation issues.

OPERATING LIGHTS
Green Humidisense LED: Model 5000
& 6000: This indicates the humidisense control has sensed the required air flow and temperature rise and the humidistais calling for humidity. Water should be flowing if the LED is lit, no water should flow if this light is off (Figure 1A).
Main Power LED: Model 6000 only. This indicates that the power to the digital top panel is turned on (Figure 1B).
Board Power LED: Model 5000 and 6000, this indicates that 24 Volts is present at the two 24 VAC IN terminals (Figure 1C).

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Humidifier does not turn ON when furnace is in heating or is inconsistent in cycling with the furnace heating cycles. Furnace is running, power is connected, humidistat is turned up (board power LED is lit) but the green humidisense LED does not light and water does not flow.
This is an indication that the furnace is not providing the required airflow or temperature rise to activate the humidifier. You can complete a quick test to ensure the humidifier’s components and electronics are functioning.
Locate the Humidisense Bypass terminals on the humidifier’s side panel (Figure 2A) and install a jumper wire across bypass terminals #3 and #4 (Figure 2B). Change all the DIP switches to the ON position (Figure 2C) and set the humidistat to highest setting.  The humidifier should turn ON, the green humidisense LED should light and water will flow.

• If the green LED does not light and water does not flow during the test, there is something wrong with the transformer, humidistat or the humidisense control. Contact us for warranty and or technical help.
• If the green LED lights but water does not flow during this test, there is something wrong with the water supply, the solenoid valve or the orifice fitting is blocked. Check to make sure the water supply is turned on, check the orifice fitting and inlet water  filter to try and remove any blockage. If water still will not flow, contact us for warranty and or technical help.
• If the green LED lights and water flows during this test, you should complete one of the Humidisense Bypass installations (see next section).

HUMIDISENSE BYPASS INSTALLATION
EXTERNAL SWITCH – AIR PRESSURE SWITCH (Cycles humidifier whenever furnace fan runs and humidistat calls for humidity) (Figure 3).

What you will need (sold separately):

1. Pressure switch PS221 (or any differential pressure switch).
2. Length of two conductor solid copper thermostat wire 18 gauge max (available at most hardware stores).
3. Two 1/4” female electrical connectors (available at most hardware stores).
4. Mount the pressure switch on the hot air duct by drilling a small hole close to the pressure switch (large enough for air sampling tube). Attach one end of the air sampling tube to the positive pressure port on the pressure switch and insert the other end into  the duct through the hole drilled earlier.
5. Using the two 1/4” electrical connectors and thermostat wire, connect the pressure switch “Common” and “Normally Open” terminals to the “Humidisense Bypass” terminals #3 and #4.
6. Change all the humidifier’s DIP switches to the ON position.

Connecting Humidifier to Existing Electronic Thermostat (Figure 4). This allows the existing electronic thermostat to control humidifier’s cycles.

What you will need (sold separately):

1. 24 VAC NO relay, Packard PR380 (or any 24 VAC NO relay).
2. Length of two conductor solid copper thermostat wire 18 gauge max (available at most hardware stores).
3. Four 1/4” female electrical connectors (available at most hardware stores).

RELAY INSTALLATION

1. Confirm your electronic thermostat is capable of controlling a central humidifier and that it has the necessary two conductor connections for humidity control (confirm this with the thermostat manufacturer).

2. Remove the existing humidistat from the humidifier.
   Model 5000: Remove the two wires installed on the humidistat terminals.
   Model 6000: Disconnect the two black transformer wires from the top panel and disconnect thetwo red wires from the top panel to the humidifier’s side panel.

3. Mount the 24 VAC relay close to the humidifier.

4. Connect the humidifier to the 24 VAC relay.
   Model 5000: Connect the two wires removed from the humidistat in Step 2 to the “Common” and “Normally Open” terminals.
   Model 6000: Connect the two plug in transformer wires to the humidifier’s side panel terminals24 VAC IN. At the relay separate the plug in transformer wires. Referring to Figure 4, cut
   one of the wires, strip the ends and using the 1/4” electrical terminals connect to the relay’s “Common” & “Normally Open” terminals.

5. Using two 1/4″ electrical connectors, connect the coil terminals of the 24 VAC relay to the electronic thermostat’s humidity control terminals.

6. At the humidifier, change all the DIP switches to the “ON” position and install a jumper wire across the humidisense bypass terminals #3 and #4.

24 VAC Thermostat Interlock (Cycles humidifier whenever furnace is in heating mode and humidistat calls for humidity) (Figures 5 and 6).

What you will need (sold separately):

1. Length of two conductor solid copper thermostat wire 18 gauge max
   (available at most hardware stores).

2. Two 1/4” female electrical connectors
   (available at most hardware stores).

24 VAC INTERLOCK INSTALLATION

1. Consult your furnace’s installation manual and or an HVAC professional.
   Locate the furnace’s control board normally found in the bottom portion of the furnace near the furnace blower.

2. Identify the 24 volt terminals which will be energized when the furnace is in heating.

3. On older boards there will be a set of terminals used to connect to the central thermostat, these terminals are usually marked R, C, W, Y, G. On this type of board use the terminals marked C (or Com) & W (or W1).

4. On newer boards there is a dedicated 24 volt humidifier terminal marked HUM or 24V HUM.
   On this type of board use the 24 V Com & 24 V HUM terminals.

5. If you are unsure consult your furnace’s installation instructions and or an HVAC professional.

6. Once you have identified the proper terminals use the 18 gauge thermostat wire to make the connection from the furnace control board to the humidisense bypass terminals #1 & #2.

7. Change all the DIP switches to the ON position.

8. The humidifier will now cycle whenever the furnace heating relay is energized and the humidistat is calling for humidity.

Hardwired Installation. Traditional Method (Figure 7) (Model 5000 ONLY, Cycles humidifier whenever the furnace is in heating and the humidistat calls for humidity).
What you will need (sold separately).

1. Hardwire transformer 04A000200 (or other 120 Volt / 24 Volt hardwire transformer).
2. Length of white & black TEW 18 gauge wire (approx. 2ft).
3. Two 1/4” female electrical connectors (available at most hardware stores).
4. Wire Nuts & Electrical Tape.

HARDWIRE TRANSFORMER INSTALLATION

1. Consult your furnace’s installation manual and or an HVAC professional, locate the furnace’s control board normally found in the bottom portion of the furnace near the furnace blower.
2. Identify the furnace’s accessory terminals. There will be one set of terminals marked “NEUTRALS” and another set will be marked HOT, HUM, EAC.
3. If you are unsure consult your furnace’s installation instructions and or an HVAC professional.
4. Retrieve the hardwire transformer, at the bottom of the furnace locate an unused electrical knockout, remove the knockout and install and secure the transformer in the knockout. Attach the transformer so the low voltage 24 volt terminals are located on  the outside of the furnace.
5. Using the black & white TEW 18 gauge wire and ¼” electrical terminals connect the white wire to one of the “NEUTRAL” terminals on the furnace board. Then connect the black wire to the 120 Volt HUM terminal on the furnace board.
6. Using the wire nuts and electrical tape connect the white & black wires installed in step 5 to the two transformer wires, secure the wire nuts with the electrical tape.
7. At the humidifier, your installation should be as per the installation instructions with the plug in transformer wired to the two terminals marked 24 VAC IN on the humidifier’s side panel with the humidistat wired into one of the transformer wires.
8. Retrieve the plug in transformer and cut the wire off at the transformer body. Separate the wires and strip the ends of the wire. Attach the ends of this wire to the 24 Volt terminals on the hardwired transformer installed in steps 5 & 6 above.
9. At the humidifier, change all the DIP switches to the ON position and install a jumper wire across humidisense bypass terminals #3 & #4.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
Humidifier seems to operate properly, green humidisense LED comes ON when furnace is in heating and the humidistat is calling for humidity but no water flows or very little water flows.
This is an indication that there is something wrong with the water supply or there is some sort of blockage in the orifice fitting, inlet water filter or the solenoid valve. Follow the directions below to check the water supply and inspect the orifice fitting & inlet  water filter and clear any blockage.
Checking Water Supply, Orifice Fitting & Inlet Filter (Figure 8).

1. Close the self-piercing needle valve installed on the cold water pipe, using an adjustable wrench remove the water supply connection from the inlet of the water solenoid valve.
2. Using a bucket to collect the water from the supply tube open the self-piercing needle valve and confirm water is flowing from the water supply tube, if water is not running with the piercing valve open, check your installation of the self-piercing needle  valve and correct to get water flowing. If water is flowing from the water supply, move to step 3 below to check inlet water filter and orifice.
3. At the humidifier’s side panel, the water supply tube should already be removed, now using an adjustable wrench remove the tube which goes from the solenoid valve outlet to the humidifier’s evaporator pad.
4. CHECKING THE INLET WATER FILTER, Using something pointy like a nail, reach into the solenoid valve inlet and remove the filter, check for and clear any blockages.
5. CHECKING THE ORIFICE FITTING, The orifice is inserted into the tube which was installed on the solenoid valve outlet. It is press fit in place, remove the orifice and inspect. There is a very small pin sized hole in this fitting, if it is blocked try to clear it  using a pin or other method. DO NOT drill this hole larger the purpose of the orifice is to protect against water blowing off the evaporator pad into the furnace as well as to limit the amount of water flowing to the drain. If you are unable to clear the orifice  replace it, consult the parts diagram for the part number.
6. If after checking the water supply, inlet water filter and the orifice fitting there is still no water supply the solenoid valve is malfunctioning.
7. Check to ensure that the two water solenoid valve wires are connected properly to the two terminals marked 24 VAC OUT on the humidifier’s side panel.
8. If after checking the water supply, inlet water filter, orifice fitting and water solenoid valve there is still no water flow you will require a replacement solenoid valve assembly, consult parts diagram for the part number.

NOTE: Before replacing the solenoid valve which is an expensive component complete a quick test below to ensure the problem is not the voltage supply from the humidity control. Follow the directions below.

Solenoid Valve Quick Test (Figure 9). (Connect the plug in transformer directly to the solenoid valve to see if the valve will open and let water flow.)

1. Unplug the transformer.
2. MODEL 5000: Take the humidistat out of the circuit, remove the two terminals from the humidistat control and temporarily connect these two wires together (secure with electrical tape). At the humidifier’s side panel, Remove the two wires from the two  terminals marked 24 VAC IN & remove the two solenoid valve wires from the two terminals marked 24 VAC OUT. Temporarily connect the transformer wires directly to the solenoid valve wires (use electrical tape to secure). Plug the transformer back in, if  the water still does not flow you need to replace the water solenoid valve, if water now flows you need a new humidistat, check the parts list for the correct part number.
3. MODEL 6000: Take the digital humidistat out of the circuit, disconnect the two black transformer wires from the top panel. At the humidifier’s side panel remove the solenoid valve wires from the two terminals marked 24 VAC OUT. Temporarily connect  the transformer wires directly to the solenoid valve wires (use electrical tape to secure). Plug the transformer back in, if the water still does not flow you need to replace the water solenoid valve, if water now flows you need a new digital top panel, check  parts list for the correct part number.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
Not Enough Humidity. Humidifier Operates properly with furnace heating cycles, water flows but the humidity level is not increasing.
In Canada homes built since the year 2000 are designed to reduce moisture to protect against condensation damage this is accomplished by introducing fresh outdoor air into the home most often through the forced air heating system return duct. If you are  seeing consistently low humidity readings after several weeks of operation consider moving the humidity control from the current location. On Model 5000 you can try locating the humidistat in another location on the duct or in the living space. On model 6000  you can purchase a remote sensor with 25 ft of wire (PN 010266001) to locate the sensor elsewhere in the duct or living space. An optional electronic digital humidistat with manual or automatic mode operation using an outdoor air sensor is available for use on  Model 5000 or 6000. You can purchase this through our parts supplier PN EDH5-6K. This control can automatically set humidity levels based on outdoor conditions and the control can be located on the duct or in the living space.

EXTERNAL FACTORS WHICH WILL AFFECT INTERNAL HUMIDITY LEVELS.

1. Sudden drop in outdoor air temperatures. As your home is continually being replenished with fresh air a sudden drop of 10 degrees will greatly affect humidity levels.
2. Water supply temperatures. Temperature of the water will greatly affect the output of the humidifier, normal residential water temperature is anywhere between 55 & 65’F, in the winter these temperature can go as low as 42 to 50’F and the colder and  deeper into the winter the situation will worsen. We do not recommend using hot water to supply the humidifier due to cost you can try some method to warm the water before getting to the humidifier. Some people have purchased an extra long water  supply tube, coiling up the extra length in a warm space to allow the water temperature to increase before reaching the solenoid valve.
3. Extreme cold. Most IAQ specialist now agree that trying to maintain a humidity level above 30% when outdoor air temperatures are below -20 degrees risk causing condensation damage to the home. While you may want to maintain the humidity level at  40% for your hardwood flooring you cannot control where this moisture is going and more often than not it is going in places you cannot see, behind walls, crawl spaces and hidden attic spaces.

INTERNAL FACTORS WHICH AFFECT HUMIDITY LEVELS.

1. Furnace cycle times and length of cycle times. In order to evaporate water off the pad all bypass type evaporative humidifier require hot air to maximize output. The less time the furnace runs the less output the humidifier will have.
2. Airflow through the humidifier. Humidifier output is based an air velocity of 500 fpm, if the bypass collar is blocked by AC A frame or if the bypass ducting is longer than normal with elbows this will affect airflow. Sometimes the layout of the duct work  causes dead spaces where airflow is very low, if your bypass duct is located in this area airflow will be affected.
3. Residential air changes. The amount of fresh air brought into a home, use of ventilation equipment such as HRV’s can take up a large percentage of the humidifier’s capacity. Rather than building up humidity levels the humidifier is working to humidify incoming fresh air.
4. Heating system controls. Most modern homes use some sort of electronic thermostat offering temperature setbacks during the evening hours, as the humidifier will operate only when the furnace is operating in heating mode the humidity levels will drop.

TROUBLE SHOOTING
Too much water is flowing to the evaporator pad or to the drain.
Models 5000 and 6000 humidifiers incorporate an orifice fitting installed in the outlet of the solenoid valve. The purpose of this fitting is to meter the amount of water flowing to the evaporator pad, this ensures water does not blow off the evaporator pad into  the furnace.
This orifice fitting can wear out and enlarge over time allowing more water than normal to flow. Refer to the earlier section about checking the orifice fitting and inlet water filter for instructions on accessing the orifice, replace the orifice fitting refer to the parts  list to find the proper part number.

MAINTENANCE

Changing the Evaporator Pad (Figure10).

Replace the evaporator pad at least once a year, more depending on the condition of your water.
Replacement evaporator pad for Models 5000 and 6000 is RF5000 these are available at retail locations and through our parts supplier.

1. Unplug the humidifier, remove the front cover
   (thumb screw secures it in place)

2. Remove the water tube from the water distribution tray (it is press fit in place). Remove the evaporator pad assembly from the humidifier, lift the frame up to release it from hooks in the back.

3. With the frame removed from the humidifier you can disassemble the water distribution tray from the frame, hooks on the distribution tray fit into slots on the frame, gently deflect the frame to release the hooks.

4. Remove and discard old evaporator pad, install the new evaporator pad with the black mark on the evaporator pad at the top.

5. Reassemble the components, install the frame back into the humidifier, put the humidifier cover back on and plug the humidifier back in.

MAINTENANCE
Changing the solenoid valve (Figure11).

Replace the solenoid valve when needed.
Replacement solenoid valve for Models 5000 and 6000 is SV5000, this assembly comes complete with the solenoid valve, inlet water filter, orifice fitting and required compression fittings. These kits are available at retail locations and through our parts  supplier.

1. Unplug the humidifier, turn off the water supply to the humidifier.

2. Using an adjustable wrench loosen the water supply tube from the solenoid valve (save the fittings at the end of water supply tube and reuse them).

3. Remove the two solenoid valve wires from the two terminals marked 24 VAC OUT on the humidifier’s side panel.

4. Remove the two screws which secure the solenoid valve on the humidifier’s side panel (save the screws and rubber washers under the solenoid bracket and reuse them).

5. Remove and discard old solenoid valve.

6. Prepare the new valve for installation, if it is not already assembled attach the tubing to the outlet of the valve, prepare the tubing as per figure below, make sure you sand the end of the tube the orifice is being inserted into.

7. Install the new solenoid valve, connect the wires to the two terminals marked 24 VAC OUT on the humidifier’s side panel.
   Reattach the water supply tube, turn the water supply back on and plug the transformer in.

8. Check for and repair any leaks.

REPLACEMENT PARTS DIAGRAM

Optional Parts Sold Separately.

OPTIONAL PARTS – SOLD SEPARATELY
Item| Description| PN| Function
A| 120 VOLT/ 24 VOLT HARDWIRE TX| 04A000200| Model 5000 Only – Hardwire Installations
B| Packard 24 VAC NO Relay| PR380| Model 5000 & 6000 – Electronic Thermostat
C| Packard Pressure Switch| PS221| Model 5000 & 6000 – Humidisense Bypass
D| Remote humidity Sensor| 010266001| Model 6000 – Remote Sensor
E| Electronic Digital Humidistat| EDH5-6K| Model 5000 & 6000 – Humidistat Upgrade

*Indicates standard parts available at most hardware stores.
Most parts are available through our parts supplier, otherwise complete an internet search using the description and part number.

Warranty Replacement
Call: 1-800-465-7300
Email: service2@airkinglimited.com

6785015 Rev. A 7-17
www.airkinglimited.com

References

• Air King Homepage - TOTAL HOME VENTILATION, Exhaust Fans
• Manual-Hub.com – Free PDF manuals!

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