E-Collar Technologies FC-100 Premium Finger Clicker Trainer User Guide

E-Collar Technologies FC-100 Premium Finger Clicker Trainer

Product Information: E-Collar Technologies Premium Finger Clicker Trainer

Welcome to the World of E-Collar Technologies, Inc. Premium Finger Clicker Trainer! This product is designed to help you train  your dog to be more engaged and responsive to your commands. With the Finger Clicker, you can create confidence, positive associations, and utilize behavior science to effectively train your dog. This clicker provides a response in your dog that is equal to or stronger than the representation of food, resulting in a well- behaved and happy dog.
Research conducted by Pavlov in the field of classical conditioning and reward markers inspired the development of this Finger Clicker Trainer. By associating the click sound with the presentation of food, you can condition your dog to respond to the click as if it were receiving a reward. This clicker serves as a powerful tool in training your dog.

Product Usage Instructions:

1. Step 1: CLICK
   When using the Finger Clicker, simply press the clicker button to produce a clicking sound. It’s important to stay still and not move your hands while clicking.

2. Step 2: REWARD
   Immediately after clicking, provide a piece of food to your dog within a split second. This helps your dog understand that the click signifies the arrival of a reward.

3. Step 3: Training Drills
   Engage in six to eight five-minute training drills for two days. If desired, you can extend the training duration. The goal is to practice a few hundred repetitions to elicit an involuntary reflex response from your dog upon hearing the click.

4. Step 4: Training Enthusiasm
    Always end your training sessions when your dog is still enthusiastic and motivated. This ensures that your dog associates the training sessions with fun, happiness, and entertainment.

Phase One: CLICK = REWARD

In this phase, focus on getting your dog to understand that the click sound equals a reward. Avoid asking for specific behaviors and keep the training simple. Stay close to your dog, keep them on a leash, and refrain from talking to them during this phase. Repeat the click followed by a reward for 40-60 repetitions.

Phase Two: CLICK = REWARD + Desired Behavior/Command

In this phase, continue using the clicker as in phase one, but now incorporate the desired behavior or command. Train your dog to understand that the click signifies both a reward and the completion of the desired behavior/command.

E-Collar Technologies Premium Finger Clicker Trainer

E-Collar Technologies Premium Finger Clicker training is a positive reinforcement[1] animal training method. The system uses conditioned reinforcers, which a trainer can deliver more quickly and more precisely than primary reinforcers such as food. The term “clicker” originally created from a small metal cricket noisemaker adapted from a child’s toy that the trainer uses to precisely mark the desired behavior. When training a new behavior, the clicker helps the animal to quickly identify the precise behavior that results in the treat.
To help you get started using the Finger Clicker in the most effective way possible, we are including this free quick start basic guide. We want you and your dog to have fun! We want you to learn how to train your dog to be more engaged and responsive to your commands. You will learn how to create confidence, positive associations, and some behavior science. Only the best for you and your best friend!

The History & Science: How reward markers work – Pavlov’s Classical **Conditioning**
Classical Conditioning was discovered by Ivan Pavlov way back in the late1800s. Pavlov noticed his dog would start salivating every time it entered his laboratory, toonly then start salivating more at the sight of his lab technician. Of course, his lab technician fed Pavlov’s dog within the room each day, causing the dog to respond involuntarily to his presence. Pavlov’s dog was salivating because it was subconsciously predicting being fed through the change of environment, and the appearance of the feeder.
Following this observation, Pavlov started to test his discovery with multiple animals,to see if he could prompt a classically conditioned response. He would have a dog positioned behind a wooden door, sound a bell, then slide food through a wooden hatch for the dog to eat. His results, as you may predict, were that the dog salivated at the sound of the bell before it received the food, therefore, paving the first steps to the future of classical conditioning and reward markers.
In simpler terms, if you CLICK with a premium finger clicker a split second before you present a pieceof food, you will start to create a response in your dog, equal if not stronger than the representation of the food.

Preparation and Introduction using the E-Collar Technologies Premium

Finger Clicker Trainer

At first, the clicker will have no meaning to your dog the first time it hears the CLICK. The noise may catch yourdog’s attention, but it will have no emotional value.

1. CLICK – When you CLICK, make sure you stay still and don’t move your hands. JUST CLICK.
2. REWARD – Within a split second of the CLICK, give food to your dog.

You want your dog to understand that the CLICK makes food appear. Spend two days doing six to eight five-minute training drills. If you can do more, feel free to do so. This should be ample time for using and learning the finger clicker. The goal is to practice a few hundred repetitions, so you see an involuntary reflex response from your dog when you CLICK.
Make it fun for you and your dog! Beginning with the time when you CLICK, to the presentation of food to your dog’s mouth, you want no more than two seconds. You want to eventually be hitting a very clear, quick, and consistent CLICK THEN REWARD that’s predictable to your dog. You’ll know you have done your job correctly when you randomly CLICK while your dog is going about its day-to-day business, and it immediately comes to you for a reward. To make commands reflexive, it takes hundreds of repetitions, so be prepared to work hard in your training. Persistence, the right strategy, timing, and technique can create a dog that is ready to perform at the highest level. You always want your dog to love training, so stop your training sessions when your dog is still enthusiastic and motivated for theexercise. Doing this leaves the association that your sessions are fun, happy, and entertaining.

Prepare for your training
You should do these exercises in two phases. In phase one, your goal is for your dog to understand CLICK = REWARD. Phase two, gets your dog to understand that CLICK = REWARD, but they are also finished with the desired behavior/command and returning to you.

Phase One

Don’t ask for a behavior when you first begin with the finger clicker: just practice the CLICK THEN REWARD. You don’t need your dog to sit or look at you; however, if they are doing this, it’s ok – it’s in fact a good thing as you have their attention. The point of the exercise is to get your dog to understand CLICK= REWARD. Stay close to your dog when you’re training, keep them onleash, and keepit simple. In the early stages, don’t talk to your dog as you want the CLICK to stand out.
You CLICK THEN REWARD as explained above. This part is all about getting your dogused to CLICK = REWARD. However, to make training simple and easier, we will use the clicker the way we do it in phase two for the rest of our training. Stick with phase one for 40-60 repetitions, then move on to phase two.
No distractions
It is important that you always set the stage for success. You want the best environment, the right attitude from your dog and you must feel safe, confident, andcomfortable to train together. Trying to introduce the use of your finger clicker in a busy park area full of distractions will benearly impossible. Introduce and use the clicker in a location where it’s easy to get your dog’s attention and keep them focused. This may be your back yard, a quiet room in your home, or anywhere you’ll have minimal distractions.

Food Type
Only choose a food that is palatable enough for your dog to eat quickly. You want small, easy-to-eat treats or kibble thatmake your training more fluent and consistent, and make your dog interested. No big biscuits here!

Daily Food vs. High Value Rewards
There are two ways to use food when training your dog:

1. Use their own daily allowance
   Here, you feed your dog its whole daily allowance of food from a treat pouch, making sure everything comes from your hand. This helps massively in you becoming a stronger resource in your dog’s life, strengthening engagement and the desire to work hard for you as their trainer. If you find it hard to get through the whole allowance in a day, you can put the remains in a food bowl.

2. High value rewards (substitute some of your dog’s daily allowance of food for highvalue rewards)
   Here, you feed your dog from a bowl as normal, but reduce it according to the amount of treats you give them. You can still work on getting a good ‘sit’ with duration and eye contact when you put the bowl down as this will keep you in control of your dog’s food and help them to feel like they are working for it.

Note: Delay their feed time or skip a meal before you start using the finger clicker: we want the food to be at its highest value. Hungry dogs will always work harder with more enthusiasm.
Note: Always check for any allergies before choosing any food for your training. If your dog has any reactions, please consult a vet or nutrition specialist for morehelp.

Treat pouch
You ideally want a treat pouch that attaches nicely to your belt and opens wide foreasy accessibility. Keep the pouch full to make it easier for you to load up your hands, ready for training.

Supply and distribution
It is often easier to load some treats in one hand (supply) then distribute them to thehand that will give the food to your dog (distribution). Put several pieces in your supply hand, ready to pass to the distribution hand one at a time.

Flat palm

When you deliver the food to your dog’s mouth, use a flat palm hand. We want to avoid giving the food out of the end of our fingers, as this often promotes nipping and makes the food target (your hand) less easy to aim for. A flat palm with the pieceof food half covered by your thumb, makes the transition of food to mouth a lot easier.
If your dog is not motivated towards food, a ball/toy maybe a better option:

1. Have a ball in your pocket
2. CLICK with both of your hands empty
3. A split second later, pull the ball out of your pocket, step backwards and letthe dog take the ball out of your hand
4. Wait for the dog to drop the ball, pick it up and repeat.

Be safe
Before you start a training session, make sure your dog has access to water, has a safe collar and lead/harness. Be sure to have suitable footwear for the terrain you’reworking with (flipflops and snow don’t go!). And, if needed, have plenty of sunscreen.

Pick times when your dog is enthusiastic
If mornings or early evenings are more lively times for your dog, use this time totrain. We want a happy, energetic dog that will help us to have a good, engagingtraining session. In between repetitions, give praise, walk around with your dog, and make sure you both stay focused. You only want to train for short periods, so you want as much engagement as possible. Training naturally creates a great connection with your dog,bringing focus and attention to you, giving you strong control over competing motivators.

Don’t train your dog if you’re frustrated
If you get frustrated in your training session, it’s best to stop and come back anothertime. Dogs are incredibly adept at reading our energy and body language: they knowwhen we are frustrated, and this will only pollute our training session and potentiallyour relationship.

Make it fun for you and your dog
Attitude is so important when you train: stick to exercises with which your dog flourishes at, helping them to always win and make your sessions easy. If you want totry out new commands, push the boundaries, but be sure to give lots of praise and multiple rewards if your dog exceeds your expectations. Laugh, have fun and be light-hearted: the energy between you both must flow and have a good vibe.

On or off leash
In the early stages of your training, keep your dog on leash. This will help your dog tounderstand it has to stay with you for the training session. Once you start to gain a lot more engagement, you will naturally know when to take the leash off. You should, however, always have a leash on your dog if it is not a safe environment to let them run free.

Phase Two

Training your dog with a E-Collar Premium Finger Clicker

1. Get a treat out of your pouch and put it in a closed fist
2. Keep your fist close to your torso area, hand closed
3. CLICK but STAY STILL
4. A split second later, take a step back
5. Move your hand down, open it up into the flat palm position. As your dog moves towards your hand, take your thumb off the food, and let them take it.

Start off by teaching some basic commands standing in front of your dog, supply hand loaded and finger clickerready. Wait for your dog to give you eye contact, then CLICK and burst backwards quickly before giving rewards. You do this as you want your dog to think they are in control,and their eye contact is activating your movements. Remember, CLICK (stay still) then a split second later, move, and THEN give rewards.
Try varying the number of rewards you give your dog after each CLICK, to keep it unpredictable. This way your dog will stay attentive to the engagement game, as itwill not be able to predict any patterns in your reward frequency. Make the exercises creative, energetic and motivating. Play around, make your ownrules, and fill it with tons of verbal praise. Contrast in your movement is what will wake up chase drive. Be expressional, move fast and have fun.
Now Let’s Get Started with Some Basic Commands in Phase Two Sit
Start the session with “LET’S GO!”

1. Start with a treat ready in your lure hand.
2. Place your hand right in front of your dog’s nose and raise your hand above your dog’s head while keeping your hand millimeters away from their nose. Make sure your thumb is half covering the food, so it is enticing to your dog and wait for them to sit.
3. When your dog’s bottom hits the ground, immediately CLICK, move your hand backwards and feed out of a flat palm.
   Repeat this exercise for 3-5 minutes. End the session with “ALL DONE”.

Down
Start the session with “LET’S GO!”

1. Ideally you want to start your dog in a stand position. If it’s easier for your dogto “sit”, practice the “down” from a “sit”, but eventually it’s a good idea to teach your dog to “down” from a stand.
2. Start with your lure hand, flat palm facing the dog, fingers pointing  towardthe floor.
3. Move your hand towards your dog’s nose, then slowly push your hand downbetween your dog’s two front paws whilst the dog follows. A good way of remembering this motion is “nose to toes”.
4. As soon as your dog reaches the “down” position, CLICK, pull your hand backwards and feed.
   Keep repeating this exercise for 3-5 minutes.

The “down”, is not something every dog will get the hang of first time. Be patient andtake your time. If it is not working, come back on another training session and try again.
Note: Once your dog has given the full behavior, do not reward any successive approximations, wait for the full behavior (“down”), CLICK THEN REWARD. End the session with “ALL DONE”.

Recall

This one is a fun exercise!
As suggested, start the session with “LET’S GO!”
Find a nice flat surface such as a concrete, wooden floor, tiles, laminate or perhaps some carpet. Grass or sand make this exercise difficult: nice flat floors are alot easier.

1. Hold a piece of food by your dog’s head, maybe one foot away
2. Throw the food away from your dog within its line of view, so they can see thefood bouncing along the floor. This will wake up chase drive in your dog, so they will feel the urge to follow it.
3. When your dog chases and eats the food, it will naturally run back towardsyou.
4. CLICK move backwards THEN REWARD.
   This exercise builds the desire to come back to you and it is super fun. It is known as a food chasing game. Once your dog is doing this with ease and the game is flowing, you can move to thenext phase.
   Wait until your dog turns back and starts moving towards you. Here, we use a recall command, such as “COME”, followed immediately by a CLICK, move backward, THEN REWARD when they get to you.
   Note : You want your dog to be coming back when you CLICK, so it’s important that we only use the “COME” command when your dog is good at this exercise, and youknow they will reliably come back to you. The CLICK should make your dog come back with even more speed and enthusiasm.

Note: You are using the “COME” command while your dog is on its way back to you.With enough repetition, the dog will understand “COME” means move toward you. In time, the “COME” will be used to trigger the behavior of coming back to you.

Creating Good Associations – Socialization

When you have powered up the Finger Clicker to be a temporary release, it will makethe dog come to us for food. If we mark (CLICK) a specific behavior, the dog will understand that it did something right and automatically get a good feeling.
Start this exercise with your dog hungry, securely on lead, and make sure whatever you want them to have a good association with, is not too close and creating pressure. For example, if you want your dog to have a better association with cars, try to have cars in the distance passing slowly, as opposed to doing this exercise nextto a busy road. For this example, we will use cars as our subject.
When your dog looks at a car, instantly CLICK THEN REWARD. The purpose of this is to create a good emotional feeling when your dog is in the presence of something unfamiliar. If your dog is a couple of feet away from you, on its lead, it should move back towards you and receive its reward. You are teaching your dog, at the site of the unfamiliar and potentially threatening object, to feel good and find safety in youas the trainer.
Note: If your dog has bad associations with the object you’re trying to help with, suchas cars or a vacuum cleaner and its response is more heightened (barking, whining, lunging). the CLICK THEN REWARD won’t work, as your dog has moved past its threshold and won’t take notice of the CLICK. For this we recommend a counter conditioning process, along with other supporting professional training.
Reward events
A reward event is when you give your dog a nice ending following a sequence of behaviors at the end of your training session. You can do this with a succession of treats, give affection, play with a ball, or have fun doing some engagement games.
Reward events can last five seconds or go on for a few minutes. Work with your dog’s drives; if they love a ball, reward them with a ball. If they love food, give them a handful of treats, or play some quick luring or food games.

Training Resources and Recommended Reading:

• https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/training/clicker-training-yourdog-mark-and-reward/
• https://www.ecollar.com/image?filename=The%20art%20of%20training%20your%20dog%20book%20cover.jpg&width=800&height=0
• https://www.amazon.com/Everything you need to know about-E Collar-Training

This Finger Clicker training guide contributed by Andrew Lang, CEO Paws in Nature For the full supporting video to this guide see www.pawsinnature.co.uk

References

• Dog Training Wirral | Behaviour Specialists - Paws in Nature
• Dog Training Wirral | Behaviour Specialists - Paws in Nature
• Animal training - Wikipedia
• Clicker training - Wikipedia
• Reinforcement - Wikipedia
• Reinforcement - Wikipedia
• Clicker Training: Mark & Reward Dog Training Using Clickers

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