Messingschlager Hydraulic Disc Brake User Manual

Messingschlager Hydraulic Disc Brake User Manual

HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKE

STANDARD FITTINGS

1. caliper is compatible with POST MOUNT forks with a distance between mounting of 74.2mm. It can be converted to International Standard by using our front and/or rear adaptor brackets.
2. Mounting bolts: M6 x 18mm (incl. Washer) x 4 pcs.
3. Disc rotor : Ø160 for the front and Ø140 for the rear; using adaptor brackets, it can be Ø180 for the front and Ø160 for the rear or Ø203 for the front and Ø180 for the rear.
4. Rotor screws: 6 pcs.

RELATED MOUNTING SPECIFICATIONS

1. Specifications of front fork and rear dropout is compatible to International Standard and POST MOUNT forks, see drawings below:
   

2. Hub
   The offset of the hubs for disc brake system is the same as SHIMANO specifications, see drawings below:
   

3. Caliper
   caliper is completely sealed, and has been tested to take high pressure.
   DO NOT loosen any screw/bolt on the caliper (the bleed screw can be loosened only when changing brake fluid); otherwise it could cause leaking and consequently no braking.
   *Warning : No brake fluid leaking is allowed. Riding should be stopped at once when there is leaking.
   Repairing should be performed by qualified dealers !

4. Rotor
   rotor specifications are Ø160 x 1.8mm( thickness) for front, Ø140 x1.8mm for rear. They can be Ø180 x 1.8mm for front, Ø160 x 1.8mm for rear or Ø203 x1.8mm for front, Ø180×1.8mm for rear when using adaptor brackets.
   *Warning : 1. Under normal riding condition, there will be slight wear on the rotor, wear will be greater after more braking. Therefore it is required to check the wear on rotor regularly. The disc rotor should be changed when it has been deformed or thickness <1.55mm.
   2. After a long time and or intensive braking, the temperature of the rotor becomes high. Do not touch the rotor.

ASSEMBLY

*Warning : As the disc pads are self-adjusting. DO NOT pull the brake lever before it is fully assembled with the rotor in the caliper slot. The more pulls on brake lever without the rotor in the caliper slot makes the gap between disc pads becomes too narrow. If the disc pad space is too small, insert spacer between disc pads to increase gap and push them back to attain the ideal gap.

I. Use the 6 rotor screws( T25 Torque key, Torque 50~60 kgf-cm) to tighten the disc rotor onto the disc hub.

• Caution
  1. Wear gloves first to avoid contamination to rotor by bare hands.
  2. The 6 rotor screws must be tightened before riding.
  3. The 6 rotor screws should be tightened in a diagonal sequence.
  4. The 6 rotor screws should be replaced after disassembly for 3-4 times as the Nylok will not unction correctly.
  5. Use cleaning naphtha to remove contamination on rotor.

II. Assemble the wheel onto the front fork or rear dropout and tighten the screws or QR.

III. Assemble the caliper onto the front fork or rear dropout.

1. International standard fork:
   Tighten the front or rear adaptor bracket onto the front fork or dropout. (Use 2 pcs M6x18mm bolts • Torque 90±5 kgf-cm).
   Mount the caliper to the adaptor bracket with 2 pcs M6x18 bolts. (DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS, so that the caliper can move freely on the bracket)

2. MANITOU fork:
   Mount the caliper to the MANITOU fork with 2 pcs M6 x 18 bolts. (DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS, so that the caliper can move freely on bracket)

IV. Pull the brake lever to make the disc pads clamp to the disc rotor.
(Torque 30~35 kgf-cm)

V. Pump brake lever 5~8 times then pump and hold brake lever. And then alternatively gradually tighten the M6 screws. (Torque 90±5 kgf-cm)

VI. Spin the wheel to make sure the disc rotor is clear to disc pads. If it is not clear then slack the bolts and redo step V above.

VII. To adjust reach of brake lever ,loose the push rod nut then use 2mm Allen key to adjust reach. Tighten the push rod nut after adjusting. ( Clockwise for larger angle; Anti-clockwise for smaller angle, Torque 12~13 kgf-cm).

VIII. Test riding
Braking force on the first 10~30 pulls is not as powerful.
(New disc pads need to be bedded in)
(*Warning : Do not ride at high speed when doing test riding, keep safe distance.)

MAINTENANCE

I. Changing disc pads

A1 hydraulic caliper is designed with self-adjustment disc pad function, No pad adjustment is required before the disc pads are worn out. It is required to stop riding and change new disc pads when the brake lever needs to be pulled with a large travel to stop the bike or there is noise between the disc pads and rotor.

*Warning : Keep the disc pads free from oil or grease; otherwise it will cause no braking.

1. Remove the disc pad pin.

2. Remove used disc pads and use flat screw driver to push caliper pistons fully back.
   See picture .. 1

3. Place new disc pads with disc pad spring in position, insert disc pad pin through the hose on caliper. Bend the open end of pin to keep the pin from moving out.
   See picture .. 2

4. Spin the wheel and make sure it is clear between the rotor and disc pads. If it doesn’t clear, redo the step VI in Assembly as above.

• Caution:

  1. Braking force on the first 10~30 pulls is not as powerful.
     (New disc pads need to be bedded in)
     Do not ride at high speed when doing test riding, keep a safe distance.

  2. It is normal that there might be braking noise in the wet. The noise will disappear after the disc pads become dry.

II. Changing brake fluid:

A1 hydraulic disc brake uses Mineral oil. Other branded Mineral oil is compatible.
*Warning : Never add or mix with DOT brake fluid or any mineral oil not for hydraulic brake use.

1. Tools :
   • Empty container( for used fluid)
   • T 10 Torque key (BMC screw)
   • Bleed kit
   • Mineral oil 30cc
   • Cleaning Naphtha clean cloth
2. Connect the syringes to plastic tubes and connect the adaptors to the other end of plastic tubes.
3. Remove the bleed screw on caliper using a T10 torque wrench. See picture .. 3
4. Connect on of the syringe with adaptor to the bleed hole on caliper. See picture .. 4
5. Remove bleed screw on BMIC. See picture .. 5
6. Use the syringe connected to caliper to draw out the used brake fluid, keep it in a container. (Please take care of the used fluid properly to protect environment)
7. Draw fresh brake fluid into the syringe, make sure that there is no air bubble in the brake fluid then connect the adaptor to caliper.
8. Connect the other syringe with adaptor to brake master cylinder. See picture.. 6
9. Start bleeding:
   a) Pump the syringe at caliper side to inject brake fluid into the system until brake fluid flows into the other syringe at the BMC side and both syringes have roughly equal amount of brake fluid.
   b) Remove the syringe from BMC, push syringe to get air out and connect syringe back to BMC.
   c) Pull brake lever fully back and use hand or a piece of string (cable tie etc.) to keep holding the brake lever. See picture .. 7
   d) Pump both syringes alternatively until no air comes out from the system
   f) Remove the adaptor on caliper side and resume the bleed screw.
   (Torque 9~10 kgf-cm)
   g) Release brake lever, pump the syringe at brake master cylinder side few times until no air comes out.
   h) Remove the adaptor on BMC side and resume the bleed screw.
   (Torque 9~10 kgf-cm)
   i) Pump brake lever 5~8 times to check bite point. If bite point is too low, redo bleeding procedures.
   j If bite point is OK, bleeding is completed. See picture ..8
   k) Clean the system by using a clean cloth with Cleaning Naphtha.

III. Shortening the hose

1. Tools :
   • Empty container( for used fluid)
   • T 10 Torque Wrench
   • Bleed Kit
   • Hose Cutter
   • Hose barb
   • Mineral oil 30cc
   • Clean Naphtha and clean cloth
   • 8mm open-ended wrench
   • Compression fitting
   • Hose must be of correct specification.
2. Cutting hose :
   a) Re-route the hose to approximately the length required from caliper end and then marked with a pen.
   b) Slide back the rubber boot hose past the cutting mark.
   c) Using the 8mm open-ended wrench unscrew the compression nut from the BMC.
   d) Pull the hose out of the BMC and ensuring the hose remains higher at all times than the caliper.
   e) Slide the compression nut past the marked length.
   f) Trim the hose to the position previously marked, slide on the new compression fitting, insert the hose bard pushing fully into the hose up to the shoulder.
   g) Re-insert the hose into the BMC pushing firmly home, slide the compression nut and screw into the BMC. Tighten the compression nut with an 8mm open-ended wrench to between 50 -60 kgf-cm torque.
   h) Slide the rubber boot hose over the compression nut.

IV. Changing hose

Please contact a qualified dealer for correct replacement accessories.

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