ARADA DEVON HOS 193VL Farringdon Small Eco Stove User Guide

HOS 193VL Farringdon Small Eco Stove
User Guide

HOS 193VL Farringdon Small Eco Stove

Welcome
TO THE ARADA FAMILY
We believe a stove is so much more than a black steel box
It is a living breathing thing, sparking passion in those who own it.
The rituals of feeding and caring for it become part of your day. The scent and sound of it become part of your home.
The glow becomes your companion.
This is why an Arada stove warms not only the bones, but the heart as well.

Quick Checklist

After fitting your stove your installer should leave you with:

• Certificate of Compliance
• Notice Plate
• A working, fitted Carbon Monoxide alarm
• Completed Warranty Card (in Eire and Northern Ireland Only)

Your installer should have also demonstrated the operation of the stove to you when the appliance is fully up to temperature.

Get Ready

We will now show you the basics of how to light and look after your stove for many years of enjoyment.
Pop the kettle on in readiness for your first fire-side brew
Get to know your stove controls!
STEP 1
What do the air controls do?
These controls adjust the amount of air entering the stove’s fire chamber, aiding combustion. Slide a control to the right to increase the air supply, and slide to the left to reduce and/or close the air supply.
The primary air control adjusts air that is supplied underneath the fuel bed (’under draught’).
The secondary air control adjusts air supplied above the fuel bed (‘over draught’). It also provides a curtain of pre-heated air across the inner face of the viewing glass to keep it clean whilst burning (‘airways’).
Only one air control on your stove?
Not all models will have two air controls. When lighting, the single air control should be fully open. And when refuelling the control needs to be reduced to about half way to adjust the burn rate.

Different controls?
The secondary air control on Hamlet Solution stoves is above the fire door.
Arada Lagom stoves have single push/pull sliding control. Pull the control to open or increase air flow, push the control inwards to reduce or close the air flow.
STEP 2
Fully open air controls
When burning wood fuel:
When wood is burned, it is burning gases that escape the top of the wood fuel that provides up to 40% of the heat, so wood needs a regulated air supply from over-draught.
When a stable fire has been established, you’ll keep the primary air control closed, and use only the secondary air control to adjust the over draught, and therefore the rate of wood burning.
To comply with rules about installing a Defra-exempt stove in a designated UK Smoke Control Area, the secondary air control is intentionally modified before or during stove installation so that it cannot be fully closed.
When burning solid fuels:
Solid fuel has better combustion when supplied with under draught rather than over draught. When the fire is alight, you will use the primary air control to adjust the burn rate.
STEP 3
Open the fire door
This is a very important step.
STEP 4
‘Top-down’ Lighting
The aim here is to build a top-down lighting structure with kindling, logs and some eco firelighters.
It is important that the structure is tall so that heat is created in the upper fire chamber and flue areas first. This heat will build and create a strong draw from the flue so a cold stove can get a stable burn going as quickly as possible, ready for the fuel loading stage to follow.
Read on to see an example of how to assemble the structure…
Note
Use this method to light your stove even if you intend to burn Manufactured Smokeless Fuels (MSF) later. Never burn a mixture of wood and MSF as this creates emissions
harmful to the environment and will damage your stove.

STEP 5
Building the structure
First, make sure your stove’s primary air control is fully open, maximising the amount of oxygen going into the stove.
Assemble the structure as shown here from the bottom up. Air needs to flow up through the base of the structure so don’t pack pieces together too tightly.
A) Place two logs in the bottom of the fire chamber.
B) Across stack (A), place two even smaller logs with two eco firelighters between them.
C) On top of the firelighter and log stack (B), build a multi-layered lattice of kindling. Place a final single eco firelighter on top.

STEP 6
Light your fire
Light the upper-most firelighter in the structure.
When it starts to burn, close the stove door but leave it ajar about 2.5cm/1 inch.
The structure will start to burn downwards causing the firelighters in the centre to catch alight, as will the logs at the bottom of the stack..

STEP 7
After 5 – 10 minutes the draw from the chimney should be well established
Close the stove door completely and let the flames reduce down to a hot ember bed ready for the fuelling stage.
Which fuel will you burn?

• If it’s wood logs, go to the next step.
•  If it’s Manufactured Smokeless Fuel, (MSF) skip to Step 9.

STEP 8
Burning wood logs
Whilst wearing the supplied hot glove, slowly and gradually open the stove door. This is to prevent the possibility of smoke spilling into the room.

1. Add only one large or two small logs at a time to the ember bed when refuelling. There’s no need to fill the fire chamber with wood!
2. Close the stove door completely.
3. Close down the primary air control.
4. Use the secondary air control to adjust the required burn rate as required.
5. Go to Step 10!

STEP 9
Burning manufactured smokeless fuels (MSF)
Whilst wearing the supplied hot glove, slowly and gradually open the stove door. This is to prevent the possibility of smoke spilling into the room.

1. Add a sufficient layer of MSF briquettes onto the ember bed, without smothering it.
2. Close the stove door completely.
3. Shut down the secondary air control.
4. Open up the primary air control to increase under draught.
5. Go to the next step!

NEVER BURN A MIXTURE OF WOOD AND MSF!
ONLY USE WOOD AS DESCRIBED IN EARLIER STEPS TO GET YOUR STOVE LIT. ADD ONLY MSF AFTERWARDS.

STEP 10
Sit back and enjoy the flames
You have now mastered one of the five elements.

Wood burning tips

Bring firewood inside
If your main store of firewood is outdoors, bring the day’s fuel indoors in the morning, by the time that you come to use them in the evening they will have already raised to room temperature making them quicker to get going.
Air from above
Air for combustion should be supplied from above a wood fire, not below. As much as 40% of the heat from burning wood comes from secondary combustion and this is severely hampered by air entering the fire box from below the fuel.
Refuel on hot embers
Wood needs a lively flame to burn efficiently so its best to refuel when this is burnt to a bed of hot embers.
Use only seasoned firewood
Burning seasoned firewood (wood with low moisture content) is absolutely essential for maximum wood burning efficiency.
Wet or unseasoned wood has such a low heat output that it creates a sooty build-up on your stove door glass and potentially irreparable damage to your flue. Burning wet wood creates poor air quality that is harmful to our health and the environment. A ban in the UK for the sale of smaller quantities of wet wood fuel was introduced in 2021.
Self-season your firewood
If you have access to your own source of firewood and the space in which to store it all-year round, you may find it to be more costeffective to season your own firewood.
For the best results, keep your freshly harvested logs in a dry, sheltered store and allow plenty of airflow around them. These wood logs should be kept in the store for up to two years before use.
We advise using seasoned hardwoods as opposed to softwoods since hard-woods burn for longer and emit less smoke.
Is your wood ready for use?
Seasoned timber will be grey or have a less vibrant colour and will weigh less than fresh wood of equivalent size and type. Dry wood will display radial hairline cracks along the edges and make a hollow sound when knocked together.
Regular pre-season maintenance
Consider regular stove checks during periods of non-use.  Check that your door rope, liner bricks and glass are all in good order. Book your annual chimney sweep before the autumn rush so you’re ready to go in winter.
Pre-heating season checks

• Check that your stove’s liner bricks and door glass are in good condition.
• Check that your door seal is still in optimal condition with a test. When the stove is cold, place a piece of paper between the door seal and the body then shut the door. This should grip the paper firmly, if the paper can fall out easily then it is time to replace the seal.
• If you are not intending to use your stove for many weeks at a time, clear out any ash from your stove.

Tip
Consider buying an electronic moisture meter. They are a cheap, reliable and easy-to-use tool for checking the moisture content of your firewood.
If you’re not an expert in using a wood or Multifuel stove, sometimes the problems or little quirks that happen from time to time can seem a little daunting. More often than not, it’s very easy to solve whatever difficulty you’re encountering. Here are a few common problems and suggestions on how best to overcome them.
Difficulty lighting a stove
In most cases, problems with lighting a stove are just down to not using the right materials or not preparing properly.
Use plenty of dry kindling to establish a hot fire.
Check out our videos online for an in-depth guide to lighting and refuelling your stove correctly.
Difficulty controlling the stove temperature or overtiring
Your lit stove can become too hot! If you don’t control the temperature your stove can run so hot that it causes damage to your stove.
A common cause is too much oxygen getting to the fire.
Check all door and glass seals to make sure they are sound.
Make sure you’re familiar with all the controls on the stove and proper operation as detailed in the instruction manual which you can download online.
If you have a boiler stove, check that the thermostat control flap is clear of debris.
In extreme circumstances, you may consider having a flue stabilizer fitted.
Why does smoke enter my room when I refuel?
This is caused by a back draught bringing smoke back down the flue pipe when the air pressure changes quickly.
To prevent this, when opening your firedoor in preparation for refuelling, open the air inlets first, a couple of minutes before opening your doors, then open the door slightly – pause – and then fully open the door.
This allows the pressure within the stove to equalise before the door is fully opened.

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My stove is making an unexpected noise…
Clicking: The noise made by some stoves is due to the different gauge of metals used in construction expanding and contracting at different rates. It is most often heard when a stove is cooling down from quite a high burn rate. It can continue for some time, and is more commonly heard on smaller stoves.
Whistling: This is a result of the air needed for combustion entering the stove through restricted airways and across sharp or angular edges. It is usually caused by high flue draughts above 20 Pa (pascals). With a flue draw above 30 Pa the whistling (if it occurs) can be quite loud, this can be resolved with the installation of a flue dampener or flue stabiliser. Whistling is also more common on stoves with tertiary air inlets.
Increased flue draught, above 20 Pa can also reduce the overall efficiency of the stove by around 3-4%, and result in a more rapid consumption of fuel together with a decrease in the heat output to the room.
Glass is dirty and difficult to clean
All modern stoves have an airwash facility to keep your glass clear when burning. The airwash relies on heat to operate effectively, so the use of poor quality fuel will affect its ability to keep the glass clear.
The best time to clean the glass by hand is shortly before lighting. Use a damp cloth, the soot will wipe off easily. If you are only burning wood logs, rubbing the glass with a
cloth dipped in cold wood ashes from the ash pan will help move remove stubborn stains.
Using glass cleaner should not be necessary. Any use of abrasive cleaning fluids or cloths will simply damage the glass.

Knowing is help the battle

Jargon buster

Firelighters:
Flammable material used to help start a fire.
Flue Stabilizer:
A device with a counter-balanced flap that can be fitted to a stove’s flue pipe to create balanced flue draught conditions and prevent overheating.
Kindling:
Dry sticks of wood.
Unseasoned Wood:
Wood with a moisture content above 20%.
Primary Air:
Air introduced into the firebox underneath the fuel.
Keep this control closed when a wood burning fire is well lit, keep it open if burning solid fuel.
Secondary Air:
Air introduced into the firebox above the fuel.
Adjust the control to modify the burn rate of a wood-fuel fire. Keep this control closed when a solid fuel fire is well lit.
Chimney Draw:
The natural draught created by heat inside a chimney.

Get the most from your stove
For advice, resources, tips and more visit the following websites: aradastoves.com/support

aradastoves.com
Manuals, Videos and answers to
other Frequently Asked Questions
can be found on our website:
www.aradastoves.com

Documents / Resources

| ARADA DEVON HOS 193VL Farringdon Small Eco Stove [pdf] User Guide
HOS 193VL, Farringdon Small Eco Stove, HOS 193VL Farringdon Small Eco Stove, Small Eco Stove, Eco Stove, Stove
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References

• Wood Burners, Log Burners, Multi Fuel and Gas Stoves - Arada Stoves
• Stove Support - Arada Stoves
• Wood Burners, Log Burners, Multi Fuel and Gas Stoves - Arada Stoves

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