PENTAIR FP 934 Shallow Well and Convertible 1/2 HP Jet Pump/Tank System Owner’s Manual

FP 934 Shallow Well and Convertible 1/2 HP Jet Pump/Tank System
Owner’s Manual 293 Wright Street, Delavan, WI 53115
Phone: 1-800-365-6832
Fax: 1-800-526-3757
Web Site: FlotecWater.com 

FP 934 Shallow Well and Convertible 1/2 HP Jet Pump/Tank System

OWNER’S MANUAL
Shallow Well and Convertible
1/2 HP Jet Pump/Tank System

Safety

Important Safety Instructions
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS – This manual contains important instructions that should be followed during installation, operation, and maintenance of the product. Save this manual for future reference.
** This is the safety alert symbol. When you see this symbol on your pump or in this manual, look for one of the following signal words and be alert to the potential for personal injury!
DANGER indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury.
WARNING indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury.
WARNING   indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, could result in minor or moderate injury.
NOTICE addresses practices not related to personal injury.
Carefully read and follow all safety instructions in this manual and on pump .
Keep safety labels in good condition.
Replace missing or damaged safety labels.
WARNING
Hazardous voltage. Can shock, burn, or cause death.
Ground pump before connecting to power supply. Disconnect power before working on pump, motor or tank.
** Wire motor for correct voltage . See “Electrical” section of this manual and motor nameplate.
Ground motor before connecting to power supply .
Meet National Electrical Code, Canadian Electrical Code, and local codes for all wiring.
**** Follow wiring instructions in this manual when connecting motor to power lines.

Electrical Safety
WARNING Capacitor voltage may be hazardous. To discharge motor capacitor, hold insulated handle screwdriver BY THE HANDLE and short capacitor terminals together. Do not touch metal screwdriver blade or capacitor terminals. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.
General Safety
CAUTION Do not touch an operating motor. Modern motors are designed to operate at high temperatures. To avoid burns when servicing pump, allow it to cool for 20 minutes after shut-down before handling. Do not allow pump or any system component to freeze. To do so will void warranty.
WARNING Pump water only with this pump. Periodically inspect pump and system components. Wear safety glasses at all times when working on pumps. Keep work area clean, uncluttered and properly lighted; store properly all unused tools and equipment. Keep visitors at a safe distance from the work areas.
WARNING Pump body may explode if used as a booster pump unless relief valve capable of passing full pump flow at 75 psi is installed.
WARNING
Hazardous pressure! Install pressure relief valve in discharge pipe. Release all pressure on system before working on any component.
For parts or assistance, call Flotec Customer Service at 1-800-365-6832

Warranty

Retain Original Receipt For Your Records
Limited Warranty
FLOTEC warrants to the original consumer purchaser (“Purchaser” or “You”) of its products that they are free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of the original consumer purchase.
If, within twelve (12) months from the original consumer purchase, any such product shall prove to be defective, it shall be repaired or replaced at FLOTEC’s option, subject to the terms and conditions set forth below. The original purchase receipt and product warranty information label are required to determine warranty eligibility. Eligibility is based on purchase date of original product – not the date of replacement under warranty. The warranty is limited to repair or replacement of product only – Purchaser pays all removal, installation, labor, shipping, and incidental charges.
For parts or troubleshooting assistance, DO NOT return product to your retail store. Contact FLOTEC Customer Service at 1-800-365-6832. Claims made under this warranty shall be made by returning the product (except sewage pumps, see below) to the retail outlet where it was purchased immediately after the discovery of any alleged defect. FLOTEC will subsequently take corrective action as promptly as reasonably possible. No requests for service will be accepted if received more than 30 days after the warranty expires.
Sewage Pumps
DO NOT return a sewage pump (that has been installed) to your retail store. Contact FLOTEC Customer Service. Sewage pumps that have seen service and been removed carry a contamination hazard with them.
If your sewage pump has failed:

• Wear rubber gloves when handling the pump;
• For warranty purposes, return the pump’s cord tag and original receipt of purchase to the retail store;
• Dispose of the pump according to local disposal ordinances.

Exceptions to the Twelve (12) Month Limited Warranty

Drill Pump, Pitcher Pump, In-line Water Filter Cartridge, Utility Pump (Model FP0F360AC, FP0FDC)| 90 days
1/3 HP Submersible Sump Pumps, Pool Cover Pump (Model FP0S1790PCA), Utility Pump (Model FP0S4100X), Condensate
Pump (Model FPCP-20ULST), IntelliPump (Model FP0S1775A), Back-up Sump Pump System (Model FP2800DCC)| 2 Years
4” Submersible Well Pumps, 1/2 HP Submersible Sump Pumps, 1/3 HP Sump Pump Models (FPSC2200A-10, FPSC2250A-10)| 3 Years
Pre-Charge Water System Tank (FP7100 Series), 1/2 HP Sump Pump (Models FPSC3200A-10, FPSC3250A-10), Submersible Solids Handling Pumps (Models FPSE9000, E75STVT), Submersible Sump Pumps (Models E50TLT, E50VLT, E75VLT, E100ELT, FPSC5000A)| 5 Years
Floodmate® 7000 (Model FP0S6000A), Pedestal Sump Pump (Model FPPSS5000), Sewage Ejector (Model FPSE3601A), Submersible Sewage Pump (Model FPSES2700A), Utility Pump (Model FPSC1725X), Submersible Sump Pump (Model FPSC4550A-10)| Lifetime

General Terms and Conditions
You must pay all labor and shipping charges necessary to replace product covered by this warranty. This warranty does not apply to the following: (1) acts of God; (2) products which, in FLOTEC’s sole judgement, have been subject to negligence, abuse, accident, misapplication, tampering, or alteration; (3) failures due to improper installation, operation, maintenance or storage; (4) atypical or unapproved application, use or service; (5) failures caused by corrosion, rust or other foreign materials in the system, or operation at pressures in excess of recommended maximums.
This warranty sets forth FLOTEC’s sole obligation and purchaser’s exclusive remedy for defective products.
FLOTEC SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR CONTINGENT DAMAGES WHATSOEVER. THE FOREGOING WARRANTIES ARE EXCLUSIVE AND IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER EXPRESS AND IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. THE FOREGOING WARRANTIES SHALL NOT EXTEND BEYOND THE DURATION PROVIDED HEREIN.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages or limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to You. This warranty gives You specific legal rights and You may also have other rights which vary from state to state.

FLOTEC • 293 Wright Street
• Delavan, WI U.S.A. 53115
Phone: 1-800-365-6832 • Fax: 1-800-526-3757
Web Site: FlotecWater.com

Installation – Shallow Well Pump

Replacing An Old Pump
WARNING Hazardous voltage . Disconnect power to pump before working on pump or motor.
Step 1. Drain and remove the old pump. Check the old pipe for scale, lime, rust, etc., and replace it if necessary.
Step 2. Install the pump in the system. Make sure that all pipe joints in the suction pipe are air-tight as well as water tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump will not be able to pull water from the well.
Step 3. Adjust the pump mounting height so that the plumbing connections do not put a strain on the pump body. Support the pipe so that the pump body does not take the weight of piping or fittings.
You have just completed the well plumbing for your new pump.
Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections .
Figure 1: Driven Point Installation
Well Point (Driven Point) Installation (Figure 1)
Step 1. Drive the well, using “drive couplings” and a “drive cap”. “Drive fittings” are threaded all the way through and allow the pipe ends to butt against each other so that the driving force of the maul is carried by the pipe and not by the threads. The ordinary fittings found in hardware stores are not threaded all the way through the fitting and can collapse under impact. “Drive fittings” are also smoother than standard plumbing fittings, making ground penetration easier.
Step 2. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible.
Step 3. Use the fewest possible fittings (especially elbows) when connecting the pipe from the well point to the pump suction port. The suction pipe should be at least as large as the suction port on the pump (include a check valve if your pump is not equipped with one – see Figure 1). Support the pipe so that there are no dips or sags in the pipe, so it doesn’t strain the pump body, and so that it slopes slightly upward from the well to the pump (high spots can cause air pockets which can air lock the pump). Seal the threaded pipe joints with 1Teflon™ tape or Teflon™ based pipe joint compound approved for use on PVC. Joints must be air- and water-tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump cannot pull water from the well. If one well point does not supply enough water, consider connecting two or three well points to one suction pipe.
1E. I. DuPont de Demours and Company Corporation, Delaware
You have just completed the suction piping for your new pump.
Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections.
Figure 2: Cased Well Installation
Cased Well Installation, 2” or Larger Casing (Figure 2)
Step 1. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible.
Step 2. Assemble the foot valve, strainer, and well pipe (see Figure 2). Make sure that the foot valve works freely.
Step 3. Lower the pipe into the well until the strainer is five feet above the bottom of the well. It should also be at least 10 feet below the well’s water level while the pump is running in order to prevent the pump from sucking air. Install a sanitary well seal.
Step 4. Install a priming tee, priming plug, and suction pipe to the pump (see Figure 2). Connect the pipe from the well to the pump suction port, using the fewest possible fittings – especially elbows – as fittings increase friction in the pipe (however, include a foot valve – see Figure 2). The suction pipe should be at least as large as the suction port on the pump. Support the pipe so that there are no dips or sags in the pipe, so it doesn’t strain the pump body, and so that it slopes slightly upward from the well to the pump (high spots can cause air pockets which can air lock the pump). Seal the suction pipe joints with Teflon™ tape or a Teflon™ based pipe joint compound. Joints must be air- and water-tight.
If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump cannot pull water from the well.
You have just completed the suction piping for your new pump. Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections .
Sealing Pipe Joints
Use only Teflon™ tape or Teflon™ based joint compounds for making all threaded connections to the pump itself. Do not use pipe joint compounds on plastic pumps: they can react with the plastic in pump components. Make sure that all pipe joints in the suction pipe are air tight as well as water tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump will not be able to pull water from the well.
Replacing an Existing Convertible Pump
Deep Well
WARNING Hazardous voltage. Disconnect power to pump before working on pump or motor.
Step 1. Drain and remove the old pump. Check pipe for scale, lime, rust, etc., and replace it if necessary.
Step 2. Install the pressure regulator and pressure gauge in the pump body (see Figure 4).
Figure 4: Install Pressure Regulator and Gauge for deep well. Install Priming Tee and Gauge for shallow well.
NOTICE: Your old ejector (in the well) may not be properly matched to your new pump. If the pump does not perform properly, we recommend that you install ejector kit FP520-100-P2, included with the pump.
Step 3. Install the pump and tank in the system. Make sure that all pipe joints in the suction pipe are air-tight as well as water tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump will not be able to pull water from the well.
Step 4. Adjust the pump mounting height so that the plumbing connections do not put a strain on the pump body. Support the pipe so that the pump body does not take the weight of piping or fittings.
Step 5. Run piping from the discharge tee in the tank flange to the household piping. The discharge piping must be at least as large as the tank tee. Install a relief valve in the discharge pipe capable of passing the entire pump flow at 75 psi. Run a pipe from the relief valve to a floor drain or some other convenient place to carry off the water.
You have just completed the well plumbing for your new pump/tank system . Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections.
Shallow Well–(Convertible–See Page 4 for Shallow Well Pump)
Hazardous voltage . Disconnect power to pump before working on pump or motor.
Step 1. Drain and remove the old pump. Check the old pipe for scale, lime, rust, etc., and replace it if necessary.
Step 2. Remove the pressure regulator from the pump body. Replace it with a 1” NPT close nipple, a 1”x1”x3/4” NPT Tee, and a 1” NPT pipe plug (see Figure 4). Install the pressure gage in the plugged hole in the pump body (see Figure 4).
Figure 5: Drive and Suction Functions
Step 3. Install the ejector kit. Follow the instructions provided with the kit. Be sure to align the venturi with the top hole on the front of the pump (see Figure 6).
Figure 6: Mount Ejector – Shallow Well
NOTICE: Always replace the ejector when replacing the pump in a shallow well installation.
Step 4. Install the pump and tank in the system. Make sure that all pipe joints in the suction pipe are air-tight as well as water tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump will not be able to pull water from the well.
Step 5. Adjust the pump mounting height so that the plumbing connections do not put a strain on the pump body. Support the pipe so that the pump body does not take the weight of piping or fittings.
Step 6. Run piping from the discharge tee in the tank flange to the household piping. The discharge piping must be at least as large as the tank tee. Install a relief valve in the discharge pipe capable of passing the entire pump flow at 75 psi. Run a pipe from the relief valve to a floor drain or some other convenient place to carry off the water.
You have just completed the well plumbing for your new pump/tank system . Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections .

New Shallow Well Convertible Pump Installation

Shallow Well Installations
Step 1. Remove the control valve from the pump body. Replace it with a 1” NPT close nipple, a 1”x1”x3/4” NPT Tee, and a 1” NPT pipe plug (see Figure 1). Install the pressure gage in the plugged hole in the pump body (see Figure 4).
Step 2. Install the ejector kit. Follow the instructions provided with the kit.
Align the venturi with the top hole on the front of the pump (see Figure 6).
Figure 7: Cased Well Installation
Cased Well Installation, 2” or Larger Casing (Figure 7)
Step 3. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible. Connect the pipe from the well to the pump suction port, using the fewest possible fittings – especially elbows – as fittings increase friction in the pipe.
Step 4. Assemble the foot valve, strainer, and well pipe (see Figure 7). Make sure that the foot valve works freely.
Step 5. Lower the pipe into the well until the strainer is five feet above the bottom of the well. It should also be at least 10 feet below the well’s water level while the pump is running in order to prevent the pump from sucking air. Install a sanitary well seal.
Figure 8: Driven Point Installation
Driven Point Installation (Figure 8)
Step 3. Dri ve the well, using “drive couplings” and a “drive cap”. “Drive fittings” are threaded all the way through and allow the pipe ends to butt against each other so that the driving force of the maul is carried by the pipe and not by the threads. The ordinary fittings found in hardware stores are not threaded all the way through the fitting and can collapse under impact. “Drive fittings” are also smoother than standard plumbing fittings, making ground penetration easier.
Step 4. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible.
Step 5. If one well point does not supply enough water, consider connecting two or three well points to one suction pipe.
All Shallow Well Installations
Step 6. Install a priming tee, priming plug, and suction pipe to the pump (see Figures 7 and 8). Connect the pipe from the well to the pump suction port, using the fewest possible fittings – especially elbows – as fittings increase friction in the pipe.
• The suction pipe should be at least as large as the suction port on the pump (include a check valve – see Figures 7 and 8).
• Support the pipe so that there are no dips or sags in the pipe, so it doesn’t strain the pump body, and so that it slopes slightly upward from the well to the pump (high spots can cause air pockets which can air lock the pump).
• Seal the pipe joints with Teflon™ tape or Teflon-based™ pipe joint compound. Joints must be air- and water-tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump cannot pull water from the well.
Step 7. Run piping from the discharge tee in the tank flange to the household piping. The discharge piping must be at least as large as the tank tee. Install a relief valve in the discharge pipe capable of passing the entire pump flow at 75 psi. Run a pipe from the relief valve to a floor drain or some other convenient place to carry off the water.
You have just completed the piping for your new pump/tank system. Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections.

New Deep Well Convertible Pump Installation

4” Or Larger Well (Figure 9)
Step 1. Install the pressure regulator and pressure gauge in the pump body.
See Figure 4, Page 6.
Step 2. Assemble the ejector kit. See Figure 9. Follow the instructions included with the kit in order to match the nozzle and venturi to your well conditions.
Step 3. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible.
Figure 9: 4” and Larger Deep Well
Step 4. Connect two pipes (1” drive, 1-1/4” suction) to the ejector and lower the ejector into the well until it is five feet from the bottom. It should also be at least 10 feet below the well’s water level while the pump is running in order to prevent the pump from sucking air.
Step 5. Install a sanitary well seal and connect the ejector piping to the pump. Use steel nipples through the well seal with flexible poly pipe to avoid crushing the plastic pipe when tightening the seal.
Step 6. Support the pipe so that there are no dips or sags in the pipe, so it doesn’t strain the pump body, and so that it slopes slightly upward from the well to the pump (high spots can cause air pockets which can air lock the pump). Seal the pipe joints with Teflon™ tape or a Teflon™-based pipe joint compound. Joints must be air- and watertight. If  the suction pipe cansuck air, the pump cannot pull water from the well.
Step 7. Run piping from the discharge tee in the tank flange to the household piping. The discharge piping must be at least as large as the tank tee. Install a relief valve in the
discharge pipe capable of passing the entire pump flow at 75 psi. Run a pipe from the relief valve to a floor drain or some other convenient place to carry off the water.
You have just completed the plumbing for your new pump . Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections.
Figure 10: 2” (Single Pipe) Deep Well
2” Well (Figure 10)
Step 1. Install the pressure regulator and pressure gauge in the pump body.
See Figure 4, Page 6.
Step 2. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible.
Step 3. Assemble ejector kit, well piping, and well head adapter according to the instructions provided with the ejector package. See Figure 10. Use galvanized drop pipe with turned couplings to allow proper flow. Follow the instructions included with the kit in order to match the nozzle and venturi to your well conditions.
Step 4. Run two pipes (one smaller drive pipe, one larger suction pipe) from the well to the pump. Support the pipe so that there are no dips or sags in the pipe, so it doesn’t strain the pump body, and so that it slopes slightly upward from the well to the pump (high spots can cause air pockets which can air lock the pump). Seal the pipe joints with Teflon™ tape or a Teflon™-based pipe joint compound.
Joints must be air- and water-tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump cannot pull water from the well.
Step 5. Run piping from the discharge tee in the tank flange to the household piping. The discharge piping must be at least as large as the tank tee. Install a relief valve in the discharge pipe capable of passing the entire pump flow at 75 psi. Run a pipe from the relief valve to a floor drain or some other convenient place to carry off the water.
You have just completed the plumbing for your new pump . Please go to Page 9 for electrical connections .
NOTE: The ejector kit supplied with your pump tank system will not work with a 2” well. You must purchase kit part number FPAP2-P2 separately.

Electrical—All Models

Disconnect power before working on pump, motor, pressure switch, or wiring.
CAUTION Risk of fire . Never wire a 115 volt motor to a 230 volt line.

Check Voltage Setting.

1. Turn off power to the pump!

2. Determine if the power supplied to the pump is 115 or 230 volts.

3. A qualified person must install electrical wiring.

4. The voltage switch is factory set to 115 volts. If you have 115 volt service, do not change the selection.
   1/2 HP motors are preset at the factory for 115 volts.

5. To change the voltage (if necessary), remove the motor capacitor cover and slide the switch fully to the correct voltage.

6. Reinstall the cover.
   Do Not Turn On Power Yet!
   

Figure 11: Connect power supply wires to pressure switch as shown.
Connect Power Supply Wiring
To Pressure Switch

1. Remove the pressure switch cover.
2. Attach power and ground wires to the pressure switch as indicated.
3. Reinstall the cover.
   Do Not Turn On Power Yet!
   

WARNING Hazardous voltage . Can shock, burn, or kill . Connect ground wire before connecting power supply wires. Use the wire size (including the ground wire) specified in the wiring chart. If possible, connect the pump to a separate branch circuit with no other appliances on it.
WARNING Explosion hazard . Do not ground to a gas supply line.
Wiring Connections
WARNING Fire hazard . Incorrect voltage can cause a fire or seriously damage the motor and voids the warranty. The supply voltage must be within ±10% of the motor nameplate voltage.
NOTICE: The motor is factory wired for 115 volts. If necessary, reconnect the motor for 230 volts, as shown in Figures 12A, 12B, and 12C. Do not attempt to operate the pump as it comes from the factory on 230 volts.
Install, ground, wire, and maintain your pump in compliance with the National Electrical Code (NEC) or the Canadian Electrical Code (CEC), as applicable, and with all local codes and ordinances that apply. Consult your local building inspector for code information.
Connection Procedure:
Step 1. Connect the ground wire first as shown in Figure 11. The ground wire must be a solid copper wire at least as large as the power supply wires.
Step 2. There must be a solid metal connection between the pressure switch and the motor for motor grounding protection. If the pressure switch is not connected to the motor, connect the green ground screw in the switch to the green ground screw under the motor end cover. Use a solid copper wire at least as large as the power supply wires.
Step 3. Connect the ground wire to a grounded lead in a service panel, to a metal underground water pipe, to a metal well casing at least ten feet (3M) long, or to a ground electrode provided by the power company or the hydro authority.
Step 4. Connect the power supply wires to the pressure switch as shown in Figure 11.
You have just completed the wiring for your pump . Please go to Page 11 or 12 for startup preparations.
Wiring Chart – Recommended Wire and Fuse Sizes

Model| Motor HP| Volts| Nameplate| Branch Fuse| DISTANCE IN FEET FROM MOTOR TO SUPPLY
---|---|---|---|---|---
| | |
0 – 100| 101 – 200 I| 201 – 300| 301 – 400
| | |
AWG WIRE SIZE (mm2)
FP415515H| 1/2| 115/230| 8.5/4.2| 15| 14/14 (2/2)| 12/14 (3/2)| 10/14 (5.5/2)| 8/14 (8.4/2)
FP420515H| 1/2| 115/230| 7.0/3.5| 15| 14/14 (2/2)| 12/14 (3/2)| 10/14 (5.5/2)| 10/14 (5.5/2)

Preparing to Start the Deep Well Pump

CAUTION Never run pump dry . Running pump without water may cause pump to overheat, damaging seal and possibly causing burns to persons handling pump. Fill pump with water before starting.
WARNING Never run pump against closed discharge . To do so can boil water inside pump, causing hazardous pressure in unit, risk of explosion and possibly scalding persons handling pump.
Step 1. Open the pressure regulator as far as possible without backing it out of the regulator body. Then remove the regulator from the pump and fill the pump, fill all piping between the pump and the well, and make sure that all piping in the well is full. If you have also installed a priming tee in the suction piping, remove the plug from the tee and fill the suction piping (see Figure 13).
Step 2. Replace all fill plugs and close the pressure regulator completely (Figure 14).
Step 3. Power on! Start the pump and watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should build rapidly to about 50 PSI as the pump primes.
Step 4. After 2 or 3 minutes, the gauge should show pressure. If not, stop the pump, remove the fill plugs, reopen the control valve, and refill the pump and piping. You may have to repeat this two or three times in order to get all the trapped air out of the piping. Don’t forget to close the control valve each time before you start the pump.
Step 5. When pressure has built up and stabilized at about 50 PSI, slowly open the control valve (see Figure 15) and let the pressure drop until the pressure gauge needle starts to flutter or drops to 0. When the needle flutters or drops, close the valve just enough to stop the flutter or bring the needle back to a stable pressure (see Figure 15).
Your pump is now operating at its most efficient point.
Step 6. After the pump has built up pressure in the system and shut off, check the pressure switch operation by opening a faucet or two and running enough water out to bleed off pressure until the pump starts. The pump should start when pressure drops to 30 PSI and stop when pressure reaches 50 PSI. Run the pump through one or two complete cycles to verify correct operation. This will also help clean the system of dirt and scale dislodged during installation.
Congratulations on a successful installation.
If you were unsuccessful, please refer to the Troubleshooting section or call our customer service technical staff.

Preparing to Start the Shallow Well Pump

CAUTION Never run pump dry . Running pump without water may cause pump to overheat, damaging seal and possibly causing burns to persons handling pump. Fill pump with water before starting.
WARNING Never run pump against closed discharge . To do so can boil water inside pump, causing hazardous pressure in unit, risk of explosion and possibly scalding persons handling pump.
Step 1. Remove the priming plug from the pump and fill the pump, fill all piping between the pump and the well, and make sure that all piping in the well is full (see Figure 16). If you have also installed a priming tee in the suction piping, remove the plug from the tee and fill the suction piping.
Step 2. Replace all fill plugs.
Step 3. Power on! Start the pump. The pump should pump water in two or three minutes.
Step 4. If you don’t have water after 2 or 3 minutes, stop the pump and remove the fill plugs. Refill the pump and piping. You may have to repeat this two or three times in order to get all the trapped air out of the piping.
Step 5. After the pump has built up pressure in the system and shut off, check the pressure switch operation by opening a faucet or two and running enough water out to bleed off pressure until the pump starts. The pump should start when pressure drops to 30 PSI and stop when pressure reaches 50 PSI. Run the pump through one or two complete cycles to verify correct operation. This will also help clean the system of dirt and scale dislodged during installation.
Congratulations on a successful installation.
If you were unsuccessful, please refer to the Troubleshooting section or call our customer service technical staff.

Troubleshooting

breaker.
Starting switch is defective| DISCONNECT POWER; Replace starting switch.
Wires at motor are loose, disconnected, or wired incorrectly| Refer to instructions on wiring (Page 9). DISCONNECT POWER; check and tighten all win rig
WARNING Capacitor voltage may be hazardous. To discharge capacitor, hold insulated handle screwdriver BY THE HANDLE and short capacitor terminals together. Do not touch metal screwdriver blade or capacitor terminals. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.
Pressure switch contacts are dirty| DISCONNECT POWER and file contacts with emery board or nail file.
Motor runs hot and overload kicks off| Motor is wired incorrectly| Refer to instructions on wiring
Voltage is too low| Check with power company. Install heavier wiring if wire size is too small (So. Electrical / WilingChart).
Pump cycles too frequently| See section below on too frequent cycling
Motor tuns but no water is delivered•
‘ Stop pump; then check prime before looking for other causes. Unscrew priming plug and see if water is in priming hole.| Pump in new installation did not pick up prime through:
1.Improper priming
2.Air leaks
3.Leaking foot valve or check valve| In new installation:
1.Re-prime according to instructions.
2.Check all connections on suction line, AVC, and ejector with soapy water 01 shaving cream.
3.Replace foot valve or check valve.
Pump has lost prime through:
1.Air leaks
2.Water level below suction pipe inlet| In installation already in use:
1.Check all connections on suction line and shaft seal.
2.Lower suction line into water and re-prime. If receding water level in well exceeds 25′ (7.6M), a deep well pump is needed.
Foot valve or strainer is plugged| Clean foot valve or strainer.
Ejector or impeller is plugged| Clean ejector or impeller.
Check valve or foot valve is stuck shut| Replace check valve or foot valve.
Pipes are frozen| Thaw pipes. Bury pipes below frost line. Heat pit or pump house.
Foot valve and/or strainer are buried in sand or mud| Raise foot valve and/or strainer above bottom of water source. Clean foot valve and strainer.
Water level is too low for shallow well setup to deliver water| A clew well jet will be needed if your well is more than 25′ (7.6M) depth to water.
Pump does not deliver water to full capacity (Also check point 3 immediately above)| Water level in well is lower than estimated| A new nozzle and venturi combination may be needed.
Steel piping (if used) is corroded or limed,
causing excess friction| Replace with plastic pipe where possible, otherwise with new steel pipe.
Piping is too small in size| Use larger piping
Pump delivers water but does not shut off or pump cycles too frequently| Pressure switch is out of adjustment or contacts are welded together| DISCONNECT POWER; adjust or replace pressure switch.
Faucets have been left open| Close faucets.
Venturi, nozzle or impeller is clogged| Clean venturi, nozzle or impeller.
Standard pressure tank is waterlogged and has no air cushion| Drain tank to air volume control pan. Check AVC for defects. Check all connections for air leaks.
Pipes leak| Check connections.
Foot valve leaks| Replace foot valve.
Pressure switch is out of adjustment| Adjust or replace pressure switch.
Air charge too low in pre-charged tank| DISCONNECT POWER and open faucets until all pressure is relieved. Using tire pressure gauge, check air pressure in tank at valve stern located on the tank. If less than pressure switch cut- in setting (30-50 PSI), pump air into tank from outside source until air pressure is 2 PSI less than cut-in setting of switch. Check air valve for leaks (use soapy solution) and replace core if necessary.
Air spurts from faucets| Pump is picking up prime| When pump has picked up prime, it should pump sol id water with no air.
Leak in suction side of pump| Suction pipe is sucking air. Check joints for leaks with soapy water.
Well is gaseous| Consult factory about installing a sleeve in the well.
Intermittent over-pumping of well. (Water drawn down below foot valve.)| Lower foot valve if possible, otherwise restrict pump discharge.

Repair Parts

1/2 HP
Seal and 0-Ring Kit Overhaul Kit
Ejector Kit
Pump Body Assembly Pressure Switch (30-50) Pressure Switch Tubing Pressure Regulator| | RPK-35
RPK-205DW
FP520-100
R176-72
TC2151
FPASFK
FPAPR| RPK-35
RPK-205SW
–
R176-73
TC2151
FPASFK
–
Kits Include:
Seal and 0-Ring Kit:
Overhaul Kit (Shallow well)
Overhaul Kit (Convertible)
Ejector Kit ( Convertible)
Pump Body Assembly (Convertible) Pump Body Assembly (Shallow well) Pressure Switch
Pressure Switch Tubing Kit| Key Nos 2, 4, 10, 16
Key Nos 1A, 2, 4, 5, 8, 9, 11(3), 12(3), 13, 14
Key Nos 1A, 2, 4, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
Key Nos 6(2), 7, 13(5), 14(2), 16, 17, 18(2), 19(2)
Key Nos 2, 6, 10, 15, 16, 1/4″ NPT Plug(2), 1/2″ NPT Plug
Key Nos 2, 6, 13, 14, 15, 1/4″ NPT Plug(2), 1/2″ NPT Plug
Key No 3
Key Nos. 6(3), 7

• If tank body fails, replace entire tank (Part Number RT6H).
  • Not illustrated.

For parts or assistance, call Flotec Customer Service at 1-800-365-6832

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