DefinitiveTechnology BP8080ST Bipolar floor-standing speaker Instructions
- June 3, 2024
- DefinitiveTechnology
Table of Contents
BP8080ST
Bipolar floor-standing speaker
Instructions
BP8080ST Bipolar floor-standing speaker
The following will detail the amplifier removal process for Definitive
Technology models BP8080ST, covering both HA and HB revisions.
The speaker should be unplugged from any receiver or power amp that it may be
plugged into.
Disconnect the speaker from AC power at least 60 minutes prior to starting.
Gather the tools you will need in a clean well-lighted place:
- a Phillips head screwdriver,
- a flat head screwdriver,
- a small plastic cup for screws
- a (small or tack) hammer,
- a needle nosed pliers (recommended)
- a digital camera (or pen and paper).
- Masking tape (optional)
Remove the Amplifier
-
Remove the screws that are along the outer edge of the back panel.
CAUTION: Only remove the screws along the outer edge of the back panel.
a. As you get the screws out drop them into the plastic cup to keep track of them. It is very important that you retain all the original screws. -
Begin to remove the amplifier plate from the cabinet.
a. If it sticks you can try to grasp the power inlet plug or the binding posts.
b. You may also use a small flat head screw driver to try to dislodge it.
c. Worst comes to worst you can lower the grill sock, remove the active woofer, and push the panel out from the inside.
i. For serial numbers with the HB notation after the 4 digit date code, the 12” woofer is covered with a protective metal grate.
The grate is bolted on; simply unscrew the metal grate, reserve all screws and set the metal grate safely aside.
ii. HA revisions did not have a metal grate.
Caution: the panel can store some charge even while unplugged. If you do this method be sure to wear a thick protective glove so that – even if you touch a capacitor or trace by accident, you will not get a zap. -
Once you have an initial separation of the back panel amp and the cabinet, use a flat headed screw driver to work your way around the lip into which the amp is mounted and dislodge the gasket from the back panel.
a. If the gasket does not stick disregard this step.
b. If there is no gasket present on your model disregard this step. -
Once free, the amp should be rotated sideways so it gently rests across the recently vacated opening. Now take a moment to prepare for the reinstallation.
a. Snap some pictures to be sure you maintain the orientation of which wires connect to which jumpers. Do not rely solely on memory.
b. Alternately take notes, such as: X colored wire is connected to the amp board posts labeled JP1. Y colored wire is connected to the amp jumper post labeled JP2 and so forth… -
There will be a total of 2 pairs of wires removed.
a. Passive Crossover
One set gets disconnected from the inside of the binding posts. The other end of these wires stay connected to the internal crossover.
b. Woofer
One set gets disconnected from the circuit board that is mounted to the inside of the back panel. -
Now that you have marked your crossover and (if applicable) woofer wires, they may be removed. Needle nose pliers should be used to gently grasp and remove, using as purely lateral of a motion as possible.
a. Try not to put torsional pressure on the tabs.
b. Be sure to grasp the fast on connector above the male tab sticking up off the board and below the the wire itself.
c. Aim for the root of the fast on connector where is grabs onto the wire.
d. Remove using as purely lateral a motion as possible.
e. Do not torque the connector
Gasket
Once you have the amp completely removed use a hammer to gently but firmly tap the staples securing the gasket back into place.
Wire Harnesses
Be sure to save the wires with the tiny metal jumper clips that snake away
into the speaker. It can also be helpful to use a piece of masking tape to
make sure the four wires you disconnected stay easy to find.