PALISADE Waterproof Grount-Free Wall Tiles Installation Guide
- June 7, 2024
- PALISADE
Table of Contents
Tile Installation Guide
READ this entire installation guide before beginning your
installation. ACP is not responsible and will not be held liable for
project failures if installation guidelines are not followed. ACP recommends
that you install these tiles over an existing substrate to ensure proper
structural integrity. Palisade tiles are not intended to be attached to raw
concrete, poured concrete walls or concrete block basement walls.
FOR INSTALLATION IN DRY ENVIRONMENTS
Appropriate substrates in a dry environment would include framed walls with
existing tile, drywall, cement board, OSB, or plywood. Palisade tiles must be
attached to structures that comply with your local building codes and have
incorporated appropriate moisture abatement measures.
FOR SHOWER, TUB OR DIRECT WATER ENVIRONMENTS
Although Palisade tiles are 100% waterproof when used with sealant in the
seams, we recommend you follow your local building codes for wet environments
like shower and tub enclosures. In a tub or shower area, existing ceramic tile
walls can be covered with no additional preparation. Otherwise, installation
over a waterproof substrate is required, such as Cement Board ®, Schluter
Kerdi Board®, GP Densheild®, Johns-Manville Go Board ®, Hardiebacker®, WPBK
Triton®, Fiberock®and equivalent products. Always follow the manufacturer’s
installation instructions to create a waterproof enclosure.
FOR BACKSPLASH, LAUNDRY ROOM OR OTHER DAMP ENVIRONMENTS
We recommend using a silicone sealer in the tile’s tongue and groove seams for
damp environments. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and your local
building codes.
ACP, LLC is not responsible or liable for any labor costs or damaged products
incurred as a result of improper installation.
All product defects are covered under our 10-year limited warranty.
Due to manufacturing variations, we cannot guarantee an exact color match from
lot to lot. Prior to installing Palisade tiles and trims on your walls, please
unpackage & layout all purchased products to ensure color consistency. If you
encounter unreasonable color variation, please give us a call at
1-800-434-3750 (7 am-4:30 pm CST, M-F)
so that we may assist you with your project.
Wall Tile Installation
Tools and supplies needed :
- Protective eyewear
- Measuring tape
- Utility knife
- Level
- Hand saw or circular saw/table saw
- Drill bit & jig saw (for cutting holes)
- Caulking gun for 10.3 oz. adhesive tubes
- Adhesive for PVC panels
- Silicone-based sealant for kitchen/bath (for wet environments)
- Optional: Matching trim
- Optional: Wood shims
Before you begin the installation
Before starting, make sure all surfaces are clean, dry, smooth, and free from
dust, grease, wax, etc. Clean the back surface of the panels by wiping them
with a clean cloth.
It is recommended that you perform a “dry layout” prior to applying any
adhesive. Measure walls, check for level and square. Depending on dimensions
and room construction, you may need to trim some panels accordingly. Depending
on your project, when fitting for a dry layout, panels can be centered at a
focal point, such as behind a sink or the center of a room. For the purpose of
the layout only, build out from both sides of the focal point, to ensure how
the tiles ft into space.
Installation in environments exposed to a direct flow of water (shower,
mudroom or garage) requires a 1/8-inch bead of sealant to be used in all
tongue and groove connections (image A). Add a bead of the sealant along
recently cut edges to be placed into the corner. Repeat this process on
perpendicular tile also facing corner (image B).
Cut Palisade tiles by scoring and snapping with
a utility knife. (image C,D). This method may require sanding the snapped
edges.
You can also use standard woodworking tools like a table saw or circular saw
with a fine-tooth blade to provide a clean, smooth cut (image E). Use a
60-tooth blade or higher. To ensure the base of the saw does not scratch the
surface of the panel, we recommend protecting the surface with blue painter’s
tape.
Cut panels for outlets and light switches.
Measure and mark the borders where the opening will be with a marker. Drill a
1/2-inch hole using a drill in a corner of the cut-out section (image F). Use
a jigsaw to cut the remaining opening, following your tracing (image G). Do
not attach accessories like coat hooks, light fittings, mirrors, etc.
directly to the tiles. Drill holes through the tiles and use suitable anchors
to attach the accessories securely into the framing behind. Seal per sealant
instructions.
Installation onto drywall, OSB, plywood or existing tile substrates
If you choose to finish the edges, we recommend our matching trim for both end
pieces and inside corners. We recommend using baseboard or cove molding to
finish the bottom row, regardless of flooring material. For both end trim
pieces and corner trims, install trim inappropriate location prior to setting
tile into trim (image H).
Palisade tiles’ unique interlocking edges have a tongue and a groove (image I). The tile’s tongue should be facing up when installing. This will prevent any moisture buildup.
If your project calls for Palisade tiles starting at a door, be sure the first
row is straight and level. Determine the desired height of your first tile row
and snap or draw a level line at that height for a reference line. Align
the tops of each panel in the first row to the snapped line (image J). It is
important that this starting row be level and straight.
To install your first panel, begin with the bottom row. Make sure the first
panel you intend to install fits properly and is level. You may need to place
a temporary shim under each bottom tile to hold them in place while the
adhesive sets (image K).
Apply adhesive to the back of the tile. Carefully read and follow the adhesive manufacturer’s directions. Apply a 1/4-inch bead in a typical “M” or “W” pattern, and a bead around the tile perimeter about 1-inch in (image L).
Apply the panel to the substrate by pressing it into place. Apply even pressure with your hands across the entire panel. If necessary, use shims or pins to hold panels in place until the adhesive sets.
Wipe off excess adhesive. Use water and a cloth. Clean off any adhesive
residue that is visible while it is still wet. Do not allow this residue to
dry as it will be difficult to clean up when dry and could damage the finish.
Connect the next tile by fully inserting the tongue into the groove (image
M).
Repeat until the bottom row is complete. If installing in a corner, cut off the flange facing the corner to allow a plumb surface against the substrate. Repeat this process on tile that abuts the previous one also facing the corner. Allow the adhesive on the bottom row to set up so that all subsequent rows remain level.
Determine what tile pattern you want to use before starting the second row M (image N, O). Commonly used options are running bond (vertical joints are staggered) and stack bond (vertical joints line up).
After the first row has been set up, apply the remaining tiles according to
the pattern or layout you desire. Use adhesive and methods described above for
remaining rows.
When installing the top row, install as you have been until you get to the
last tile in the corner. If tiles butt against your ceiling, when installing
the last tile, remove flanges from the side (image P). Or use our matching L
trim. Lay tile into place. Apply pressure to ensure the tile is flush with
others. Use a recommended silicone sealer- as previously described-in joints
to ensure a water-tight installation, if applicable.
Installation of the Last Tile In a Row
If you are using corner and/or L-trims for a Palisade shower kit installation,
the following information will show how to install the last, short tile at the
end of a row. Read and follow if your project looks like this. Optional
rubber gloves and water in a squirt bottle may make this task easier. The
challenge is to place the remaining tile section into the edge trim while also
getting the interlocking tile edges locked together (image Q).
First, install the inside corner trims into each corner using adhesive. Allow
24 hours for the adhesive to cure. Make sure the corner trims are oriented as
in the image below. Each inside corner trim piece has a full and a partial
channel. The full channel will be against the back wall.
The drawing below shows a top cross-section view of facing inside
corners.
Next, determine the length of the tile section. Measure from the inside lip of the previously installed tile to the inside edge of the pre-installed trim. See the image at right for details. In this case, the length to cut the final tile in the row is 4-3/4-inches (image R).
After cutting tile to length, apply adhesive to the substrate, as shown (image S). Spray a squirt or two of water onto the substrate and adhesive, as shown (image T). This will lubricate the substrate allowing for easier movement.
Insert the cut tile edge into the L-trim while holding the interlocking joint
edge away from its mating tile. Insert the cut end into the edge of the trim
channel while holding the other edge up (image U).
Push the tile into the edge trim while laying the tile down toward the
substrate. When pushed into the trim entirely, the interlocking edges will be
exposed (image V).
Apply sealant to the interlocking edges if this installation is for a wet
environment.
The tile can now be manually pulled into place. Pull the tile toward the
interlocking joint (image W). If necessary, rubber gloves can be used to
increase grip friction with the surface of the tile. Keep pulling until the
interlocking joint is tight and in place (image X).
Use a damp rag or paper towel to clean off any sealant or adhesive that may have been squeezed onto the tile surface.
Edge and Corner Trims
J-Trim is used to finish the terminal end of tiles when not adjoined to anything. To install, don’t dispense adhesive a few inches from the tile’s edge where you intend to use the J-Trim. This will allow the trim to slide in place. Dispense a bead of sealant into the receiving channel of the trim and then press the trim into place.
Inside Corner Trim should be attached with adhesive to the substrate. Dispense
a small bead of adhesive directly to the substrate corner or on the trim
itself. Also, dispense a bead of sealant into each of the trim’s
channels to prevent water from reaching the substrate.
L-Trim is used to cover existing exposed tiles to provide a finished look. Install by dispensing a thin bead of sealant on the Palisade side and a thin bead of adhesive on the substrate side. Press trim into place. If trim will not stay in place, use some masking or painter’s tape to hold until adhesive sets.
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