Metolius UM2021 Passive Protection Climbing Nuts Instructions
- June 6, 2024
- Metolius
Table of Contents
Metolius Climbing
63189 Nels Anderson Rd.
Bend, OR 97701 USA
Phone: 541-382-7585
Fax: 541-382-8531
www.metoliusclimbing.com
Passive Protection
- Big Nuts
- Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts
- Astro Nuts
Warning
- This product is for rock climbing and mountaineering only.
- Climbing and mountaineering are dangerous.
- You are responsible for your own actions and decisions.
- Specialized knowledge and training are required to use this product.
- You are responsible for knowing and respecting this product’s capabilities and limitations.
- We strongly recommend that every climber seek instruction by a qualified professional.
- Always know the maintenance and use history of your equipment and destroy retired gear to prevent future use.
- The use of secondhand equipment is strongly discouraged.
- This product should only be used in conjunction with appropriate climbing and mountaineering equipment that complies with relevant standards.
- Failure to follow these warnings can result in severe injury or death.
Use (A)
Try to match the size and shape of the placement as closely as possible with
the piece you choose. The goal is to get as much surface area in contact
between the nut and the rock as possible (1, 2). Try facing the curves of a
nut in either direction to see which way it seats better in the crack.
Place a nut in its primary position (the narrower of the two options) if you
can (3). This gives more surface area for a stronger and more stable
placement. However, shallow cracks or certain slots work better with the nut
in its secondary or wider position (4).
It is usually best to place the biggest piece that will fit, (more surface
area and thicker cable make a stronger placement) but not always. Sometimes a
smaller piece will seat better and be less likely to fall out as you climb
past.
When searching for a placement, always keep the direction of pull in mind. In
the best slot, a nut might be multi-directional, but most placements are good
for a pull in one direction only.
Try to visualize which way the piece will be loaded in a fall and make sure
the wire is pointing in that direction (1).
Even a perfect placement will fail at a very low load in wet, dirty, icy or
poor-quality rock (5, 6, 7). If the wires are loaded over an edge, as in a
horizontal placement, it will weaken them significantly (8).
Nuts are very susceptible to falling out of their placements as you climb past
them or because of rope movement. Set your pieces in their placements with a
slight tug in the expected direction of load. Exercise caution when climbing
past nuts and extend your placements with slings to isolate them from rope
movement (9). Always clip into nuts with a carabiner. Never thread a sling
directly through the wire cable (10). Only clip into the open loop of cable
below the crimped sleeve. Never clip into any other part of the cable. Avoid
cleaning nuts by yanking upward on the cable. This kinks the cable, which
weakens it. If the nut won’t come out easily, use a nut tool.
| Size | Curve Nut #6-10 | Curve Nut #1-5 |
|---|---|---|
| Holding force (S) | 12 > S ≥ 7 kN | S < 7 kN |
| At a Stance | Not recommended for use on its own, since it will not withstand |
the highest conceivable force. It may be used as one component
of a belay system where the force of a fall is shared between the components.|
Only to be used as part of a multicomponent belay a system where the force of
a fall will be shared between
several components.
As a Running Belay| If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand
typical forces generated in a fall, provided a dynamic belay is in use and
effective. It cannot be relied upon to
withstand the highest forces that could be generated in a fall.| Even if used
correctly, and with a dynamic belay in use, it cannot be relied upon
to withstand typical forces generated in a fall. Wherever possible, it should
be backed up with one or more devices
of similar strength, in such a way as to share the load.
Care and Maintenance (B)
You must inspect your equipment before every use and take personal
responsibility for evaluating its condition and retiring unsafe gear. Look for
any cracks, gouges or corrosion in metal parts as well as kinked or broken
wire strands. If there are any signs of damage or severe wear, retire the
product. Destroy retired gear to prevent any chance of its future use. If you
are ever in any doubt about the safety of your equipment, return it to
Metolius for inspection.
Clean your gear with hot, soapy water. Rinse with fresh water and dry
thoroughly.
Saltwater environments are very damaging to climbing gear. If your gear is
exposed to a saltwater environment, rinse it in fresh water and dry it
thoroughly.
Do not modify your gear in any way. If your gear is in need of repair, return
it to Metolius.
Storage and Transportation (C)
Keep your climbing equipment away from any chemical reagents (e.g. corrosive
substances, solvents, acid, bleach, batteries, etc.) or heat sources. If any
of your climbing gear comes into contact with any chemical reagents, retire it
immediately. Store your gear in a dry, cool, dark, well-ventilated area.
Lifespan
The lifespan of climbing equipment is generally dictated by wear and damage
rather than by time. Under proper storage and moderate usage, with no exposure
to saltwater environments, chemical reagents, severe falls or damage, metal
products can have an unlimited lifespan and textile products can last up to 5
years. However, any of the aforementioned factors can reduce life span
dramatically. Even though textiles may show no significant signs of wear, the
fibers will deteriorate with the passage of time.
Warning Symbols (D)
- Immanent risk of serious injury or death
- Potential for accident or injury
- Approved use
Markings
CE0082: Body controlling the manufacture of this product.
UIAA : UIAA certified
Metolius: Name of the manufacturer
Number (e.g. 1-10): Size
Serial Number (e.g. 0218): Date of manufacture
02: Month
18: Year
Strength Rating (e.g. 10 kN): Minimum breaking strength
: Read instructions prior to use!
Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts conform to Regulation (EU) 2016/425,
EN 12270, Mountaineering equipment – Chocks. The EU declaration of conformity
can be found at https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/eudoc.html
Certification and monitoring of this product is performed by:
APAVE SUDEUROPE SAS
CS 60193
13322 MARSEILLE CEDEX 16
FRANCE
Notified body number 0082
If you do not completely understand any of the above or if you have questions,
contact Metolius at 541-382-7585 or
info@metoliusclimbing.com
Specifications
Big Nuts
| size | color | **dimensions*** | strength | weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | green | 1.13 – 1.38” | 28.7 – 35.0 mm | 10 kN |
| 2 | yellow | 1.30 – 1.59” | 33.0 – 40.3 mm | 10 kN |
| 3 | orange | 1.50 – 1.83” | 38.1 -46.4 mm | 10 kN |
| 4 | red | 1.73 – 2.10” | 43.9 – 53.3 mm | 10 kN |
Not CE certified
*Dimensions are depth and width at the top (widest part) of the nut
Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nuts
| size | color | **dimensions*** | strength | weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | blue | 0.35 – 0.48” | 8.8 – 12.2 mm | 7 kN |
| 2 | yellow | 0.39 – 0.50” | 9.9 – 12.8 mm | 7 kN |
| 3 | orange | 0.44 – 0.56” | 11.1 -14.3 mm | 7 kN |
| 4 | red | 0.50- 0.63” | 12.7 – 16.1 mm | 7 kN |
| 5 | black | 0.55 – 0.71” | 13.9 – 18.0 mm | 7 kN |
| 6 | green | 0.61 – 0.79” | 15.4 – 20.1 mm | 10 kN |
| 7 | light blue | 0.69 – 0.89” | 17.5 – 22.6 mm | 10 kN |
| 8 | light purple | 0.78 – 1.00” | 19.8 – 25.3 mm | 10 kN |
| 9 | maroon | 0.86 – 1.11” | 21.8 – 28.3 mm | 10 kN |
| 10 | dark blue | 0.97 – 1.25” | 24.6 – 31.7 mm | 10 kN |
*Dimensions are depth and width at the top (widest part) of the nut
Astro Nuts
| size | color | dimensions* | strength | weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | gray | 0.12 – 0.24” | 3.1 – 6.1 mm | 1.4 kN |
| 2 | blue | 0.14 – 0.24” | 3.5 – 6.1 mm | 1.4 kN |
| 3 | gold | 0.16 – 0.24” | 4.1 – 6.1 mm | 2.5 kN |
| 4 | red | 0.18- 0.26” | 4.6 – 6.5 mm | 2.5 kN |
| 5 | black | 0.21 – 0.29” | 5.3 – 7.4 mm | 2.5 kN |
| 6 | gray | 0.24 – 0.32” | 5.9 – 8.1 mm | 6 kN |
| 7 | blue | 0.27 – 0.37” | 6.9 – 9.4 mm | 6 kN |
| 8 | gold | 0.32 – 0.42” | 8.1 – 10.6 mm | 6 kN |
| 9 | red | 0.37 – 0.49” | 9.4 – 12.4 mm | 8 kN |
| 10 | black | 0.42 – 0.55” | 10.6 – 13.9 mm | 8 kN |
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