LG LRTLS2403S 24 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator Owner’s Manual

CONNECTING THE WATER LINE

• A place compression nut and the ferrule at the end of the pipeline. Insert pipeline into the connection valve as far as possible. Hold tightly while holding the pipeline.
  Hold on to the pipe from the handles or grabbers located behind the refrigerator, losing first the bolt holding the handle. Afterward, insert the pipe into the hole and tighten the bolt to finalize.

1. OPEN THE BYPASS VALVE
   Tighten all connections containing leaks. Place access cover back on the compressor.

2. CONNECT TO REFRIGERATOR
   Fix the pipeline in a way that it does not vibrate on the refrigerator or wall. Push the refrigerator against the wall.

3. TURN ICEMAKER ON
   Turn the icemaker switch into the ON position. Ice maker will start only after reaching its operating temperature of 15 °F (-9 °C) or less. It will automatically begin the ice production if the switch is located in the ON position.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

UNDERSTANDING SOUNDS YOU MAY HEAR
Your new refrigerator may make sounds that your old one did not make. Most of the new sounds are normal. Hard surfaces, like the floor, walls and cabinets, can make the sounds seem louder than they actually are. The following describes the kinds of sounds you may hear and what may be causing them..

Clicking:
The defrost control will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control, depending on the model) will also click when cycling on and off.

Rattling:
Raffling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the waterline, or items stored on top of the refrigerator.

Whooshing:

• Evaporator fan motor circulating the air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
• Air is forced over the condenser by the condenser fan.
• Ice compartment fan in the freezer on the left side of the refrigerator when the doors are open.

Gurgling:
As each cycle ends, you may hear a gurgling sound caused by the refrigerant flowing through the cooling system.

Popping:
Contraction and expansion of the inside walls.

Sizzling:
Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle.

Vibrating Noise:
If the side or back of the refrigerator is touching a cabinet or wall, some of the normal vibrations may make an audible sound. To eliminate the noise, make sure that the sides and back cannot vibrate against any wall or cabinet.

Dripping:
Water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle.

Pulsating or High-Pitched Sound: Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high- efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, but is still more energy-efficient than previous models. While the refrigerator is running, it is normal to hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound.

voltage (see Electrical & Grounding Requirements).
A fuse in your home may be blown or the circuit breaker tripped. Or the appliance is connected to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlet, and the outlet’s circuit breaker has tripped.| Check the main electrical box and replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. Do not increase fuse capacity. If the problem is a circuit overload, have it corrected by a qualified electrician.
Reset the circuit breaker on the GFCI. If the problem persists, contact an electrician.
The refrigerator control is set to OFF.| Refer to the Setting the Controls section.
The refrigerator is in the defrost cycle.| Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end.
The OFF light is illuminated.| The refrigerator is in DEMO mode. The Demo Mode disables the cooling system and only the lamps and display will work normally. To disable Demo Mode, press the Temperature Adjust button until you set the desired temperature level. When demo mode is deac­tivated, the OFF light will turn off.
The lights do not work.| The power supply cord is unplugged.| Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage (refer to Electrical & Grounding Requirements).
An LED light has malfunctioned.| Before proceeding to replace the LED, unplug the refrigerator or turn off power at the circuit breaker or fuse box.

NOTE: The refrigerator and freezer compartment lamps are LED interior lighting, and service should only be performed by a qualified technician.

Vibration or raffling noise.| The refrigerator is not resting solidly on the floor.| The floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need adjusting. See the Installation section for leveling instructions.
The cooling system runs too much.| The refrigerator that was replaced was an older model.| Modern refrigerators require more operating time but use less energy due to more efficient technology.
The room temperature is warmer than normal.| The compressor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures (70°F) expect your compressor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more often. The refrigerator should not be operated in surrounding temperatures above 110°F.
The door is opened often or a large amount of food has just been added.| Adding food and opening the door warms the refrigerator, requiring the compressor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. (Refer to the Food Storage Guide.)
The refrigerator was recently plugged in and the refrigerator control was set correctly.| The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to cool completely
The refrigerator control is not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.| See the Adjusting Control Settings section.
The cooling system runs too much.| The doors are not closed completely.| Firmly push the doors shut. If they will not shut all the way, see “Doors will not close completely” in the Troubleshooting section.
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The back cover is dirty.| This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the back cover. Refer to the Care and Cleaning section.
Doors will not close completely.| The refrigerator is not level.| See the Leveling and Door Alignment section.
Food packages are blocking the door open.| Rearrange food containers to clear door and door shelves.
The ice bin, crisper cover, pans, shelves, door bins, or baskets are out of position.| Push bins all the way in and put crisper cover, pans, shelves, and baskets into their correct positions. See the Using Your Refrigerator section for more information.
The gaskets are sticking.| Clean gaskets and the surfaces that they touch. Rub a thin coat of appliance polish or kitchen wax on the gaskets after cleaning.
The refrigerator wobbles or seems unstable.| Level the refrigerator. Refer to the Leveling and Door Alignment for more information.
The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced.| Remove and replace the doors according to the Removing and Replacing Refrigerator Handles and Doors section, or call a qualified technician.
Frost or ice crystals on frozen food.| The door is not closing properly.| See “Doors will not close completely” in the Troubleshooting section.
The door is opened often.| When the door is opened, warm, humid air is allowed in the freezer, resulting in frost.
Ice has bad taste or odor.| The icemaker was recently installed.| Discard the first few batches of ice to avoid discolored or bad-tasting ice.
The ice has been stored for too long.| Throw away old ice and make a new supply.
The food has not been wrapped tightly in either compartment.| Rewrap foods since odors may migrate to the ice if food is not wrapped properly.
The water supply contains minerals such as sulfur.| A water filter may need to be installed to eliminate taste and odor problems.
The interior of the refrigerator needs cleaning.| See the Care and Cleaning section for more information.
The ice storage bin needs cleaning.| Empty and wash bin. Discard old cubes.
There is water in the defrost drain pan.| The refrigerator is defrosting.| The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
It is more humid than normal.| Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid.
The refrigerator seems to make too much noise.| The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator.| Refer to the Understanding Sounds You May Hear section for more information.
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The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice.| New installation.| Wait for 12 to 24 hours after ice maker

installation for ice production to begin. Wait 72 hours for full ice production.

The refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the supply shutoff valve is not turned on.| Connect the refrigerator to the water supply and turn the water shutoff valve fully open.
A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply.| Reverse osmosis filtration systems can reduce the water pressure below the minimum

amount and result in icemaker issues. (Refer to Water Pressure section.)

Kink in the water source line.| A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
Ice demand has exceeded storage capacity.| The ice maker will produce approximately 95 cubes in a 24-hour period.

NOTE: An extra ice bucket is provided in the freezer section for additional storage capacity.

The ice maker is not turned on.| Locate the icemaker ON/OFF switch and confirm it is in the ON (I) position.
There is something on the ice-detecting sensor.| Foreign substances or frost on the ice detecting sensor can interrupt ice production.
Make sure the sensor area is clean at all times for proper operation.
The temperature setting for the freezer is too warm.| The recommended temperature for the freezer compartment for normal ice production is 0°F. If the freezer temperature is warmer, ice production will be affected.
The doors are opened often.| If the doors of the unit are opened often, ambient air will warm the refrigerator which will prevent the unit from maintaining the set temperature. Lowering the refrigerator temperature can help, as well as not opening the doors as frequently.
The doors are not closing properly.| If the doors are not properly closed, ice production will be affected. See “Doors will not close completely” in the Troubleshooting section for more information.
The refrigerator or Freezer section is too cold.| Controls are not set correctly for conditions.|

If the temperature is too cold, raise the temperature setting one increment at a time (refer to the Setting the Controls section). When changing control settings, wait 24 hours before making additional adjustments.

The temperature is too warm or there is interior moisture buildup.|

The air vents are blocked. Cold air circulates from the freezer to the fresh food section and back again through air vents in the wall dividing the two sections.

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Locate air vents by using your hand to sense airflow and move all packages that block vents and restrict airflow. (See air flow diagram below.)

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The doors are opened often.|

Opening the door warms the refrigerator, requiring the compressor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.

The control is not set correctly for the surrounding conditions.| If the temperature is too warm, change the setting one increment at a time. Refer to the Setting the Controls section. Wait 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize or even out.
A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator or freezer.| Adding food warms the refrigerator. It can take a few hours for the refrigerator to return to normal temperature.
The food is not packaged correctly.| Wrap food tightly and wipe off damp

containers prior to storing in the refrigerator to avoid moisture accumulation. If necessary, repackage food according to the guidelines in the Food Storage Guide section.

The doors are not closing completely.| See “Doors will not close completely” in the Troubleshooting section.
The weather is humid.| In humid weather, air carries moisture into the refrigerator when the doors are opened. Increased humidity in the freezer or refrigerator compartments can lead to frost or condensation.
An automatic defrost cycle was completed.| It is normal for droplets to form on the interior back wall after the refrigerator automatically defrosts.
The doors are difficult to open.| The gaskets are dirty or sticky.| Clean the gaskets and the surfaces that they touch. Rub a thin coat of appliance polish or kitchen wax on the gaskets after cleaning.
The door is reopened within a short time after having been opened.| When you open the door, warmer air enters the refrigerator. As the warm air cools, it can create a vacuum. If the door is hard to open, wait one minute to allow the air pressure to equalize, then see if it opens more easily.
Frozen food in the refrigerator compartment.| The temperature control in the refrigerator compartment is set too cold.| Press the Temperature Adjust button to set the refrigerator compartment to a warmer temperature.
The refrigerator is installed in a cold location.| When the room temperature is below 41°F (5°C), food can freeze. The refrigerator should not be operated in temperatures below 55°F (13°C).
Food with a high water content was placed too close to the cold air discharge vent.|

Place food with a high water content toward the front of the refrigerator.

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